Which Optima?

[Traco]

Can someone tell me which Optima battery is best for:

1. a daily driver V8 Disco 1 with electric windows, air conditoning, stereo;
2. infrequently used older LR with relatively few electrical components.

As I understand it the Red Top SLI batteries are meant more for daily use with not over the top extra electrical draining accessories, whilst the Yellow Top Deep Cycle batteries are more for cars with high ongoing electrical loads and those that sit around in the garage unused for extensive periods.

Is this correct? Or can I use a Red Top battery in an infrequently used car and expect it to start everytime?

[Redback]

Personally I reckon they are over priced and over rated, just get what is the recommended replacement battery.

Baz.

[Traco]

Just picked up a new Red Top D34/78 for $270. That's the one with the top and side terminals and 800CCA. The local garage wanted $180 for a 550CCA Exide with RAA discount.

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

Just picked up a new Red Top D34/78 for $270. That's the one with the top and side terminals and 800CCA. The local garage wanted $180 for a 550CCA Exide with RAA discount.
??? so what is the comparison, you paid more for the Redtop the bats are 2 different CCAs and 2 different prices.
I went overseas for a month, left my Disco parked outside at the Airport , got back turned the key and it started 1st turn, so how long does one classify leaving a vehicle a long time?

[M.Allison]

I have a yellow top in my P38 and i have never had one problem with it. I only paid $200 (new) for it and its 750cca.

plus because its a dry cell no need to check levels of the water and all that.

thats my 2 cents.

p.s i have left my car sit around for about 6 months without driving it and i went to turn it over first click.

Thanks,

Mike

[Slunnie]

Can someone tell me which Optima battery is best for:

1. a daily driver V8 Disco 1 with electric windows, air conditoning, stereo;
2. infrequently used older LR with relatively few electrical components.

As I understand it the Red Top SLI batteries are meant more for daily use with not over the top extra electrical draining accessories, whilst the Yellow Top Deep Cycle batteries are more for cars with high ongoing electrical loads and those that sit around in the garage unused for extensive periods.

Is this correct? Or can I use a Red Top battery in an infrequently used car and expect it to start everytime?
Red Tops are the starter batteries which is what you are after. I run the Blue Top because I also winch from it.

BUT if those cars came with the old school lead acid batteries, then the Optimas probably wont be much good to you, as the charging voltages required will be higher than that supplied. The Optimas work well with vehicles that came with the latter batteries - except I cant recall what these are call. AGM, sealed for life or something. Traxide will hopefully confirm this or tell me I'm full of crap. :D

[dullbird]

I have a yellow top in my P38 and i have never had one problem with it. I only paid $200 (new) for it and its 750cca.

plus because its a dry cell no need to check levels of the water and all that.

thats my 2 cents.


p.s i have left my car sit around for about 6 months without driving it and i went to turn it over first click.

Thanks,

Mike

X2

how ever I don't know what other batteries are like but they only have a 5year life I believe...still I have a red top n my disco a yellow top as second in the 110 and two yellow tops in the 90. been very happy with them. and when the second battery in the dsico lets go (exide) that will get a yellow top also.

[DeanoH]

When all else fails read the manual. I'm not being a smart a..e here but the type of alternator/ battery fitted to your vehicle will determine the type of battery that you can use as a replacement.

For example my 1986 RRC has an alternator that maxes out at 13.5 volts. This vehicle was designed to have a common or garden variety lead acid battery and there is no point fitting a more modern lead acid calcium battery or Optima type battery as these are designed to run at a higher voltage. They would still work but never be fully charged and the extra they cost will be money wasted.

Kayes D2 on the other hand has an alternator that puts out 14.6 volts at startup and runs at 13.8 volts. This vehicle came with a lead acid calcium type battery which is designed to run at these voltages. An Optima type or AGM battery would be a suitable replacement for this battery as it is designed to run at these higher voltages. A 'normal' lead acid battery is totally unsuitable as a replacement as the higher voltage would cause the battery to 'gas' constantly causing loss of electrolyte and the eventual early failure of the battery.

As far as battery application goes there are three basic types for general automotive and marine use.

1/. Again, a common or garden variety high CCA (cold cranking amps) battery is what you need for a single battery installation. This is a battery that is optimised to provide the high starting current required by the cars starter motor. For a diesel engine 400 amps or more is not unusual. These batterys are designed to provide a lot of current for a short time and will have a very short life if discharged too far, ie less than say 11.5 volts. In an Optima battery this would be coloured red.

2/. A variation here would be a 'marine' type starter battery which is basically the same battery but more robust and sealed. Usually colour coded blue. Useful in 4WD's that travel on corrugated roads as they are less likely to fall apart internally due to vibration.

3/. Deep cycle batterys are batterys that are optimised to provide power to run auxiliary equipment as opposed to high current starting applications. eg. An Engel fridge draws less than 3 amps. These batterys are designed to provide a little bit of current for a long time and can be safely discharged to lower voltage levels than a start battery, say 10.5 volts without damage. This would be your yellow top Optima. You can also get marine type deep cycle batterys which are also usually colour coded blue.

I hope this explanation has made it easier for you to determine the correct battery type for your cars.

For my money, I agree with redback. Unless you need the superfast charging times of the Optimas and have a charging system that can maintain it, or you need their extreme robustness, I'd stick to normal lead acid or lead acid calcium types. If in doubt get the physically biggest, highest CCA battery that will fit in the available hole. The alternator voltage will determine if you should have something other than a 'normal' (non calcium) lead acid type. as I said at the start, if in doubt read the manual.

Deano