Air Compressor

[M.Allison]

G'Day Guys,

So i have a question since i have removed my airbag suspension i now have a compressor sitting in my engine bay.....i want to know if i can some how rig it up to use as a compressor to pump up the tires/dry any water on electrics when i go Off Roading rather then me go out and buy a portable one i would like to be able to use what i currently have.

If it can be done what do i need to do, to do it?

Thanks Guys,

Mike

[Scouse]

Do you still have your air tank fitted?
Ideally, you can store the air in the tank while driving which will save the compressor from working too hard all at once.

I don't see why you can't use the original compressor when using the tank. If (when) it dies, plumb in an aftermarket compressor.

[M.Allison]

Do you still have your air tank fitted?
Ideally, you can store the air in the tank while driving which will save the compressor from working too hard all at once.

I don't see why you can't use the original compressor when using the tank. If (when) it dies, plumb in an aftermarket compressor.


yeah the tank is still there...i just need to know how to go about the whole thing i dont know where to start i would ideally want it connected to a switch which i could just put on and it would start pumping and then when the tank is full it switches off....

Thanks

Mike

[Scouse]

There are low & high pressure switches in the system already so it should be able to do this automatically.
Don't ask me where they are though (I can check in the manual tomorrow though).

Then you just need a line from the tank to somewhere accessible (in the engine bay, for example) & away you go :).

[M.Allison]

There are low & high pressure switches in the system already so it should be able to do this automatically.
Don't ask me where they are though (I can check in the manual tomorrow though).

Then you just need a line from the tank to somewhere accessible (in the engine bay, for example) & away you go :).


Ok so basically i should re plumb the air line from the tank to somewhere in the engine bay.

Heres the thing i might have a problem with.....i have used a by pass for my eas system so that it doesnt fault when im driving...is this going to effect my compressor, Its the one that displays EAS manual when you start up the car...

Thanks
Mike.

[Scouse]

Heres the thing i might have a problem with.....i have used a by pass for my eas system so that it doesnt fault when im driving...is this going to effect my compressor, Its the one that displays EAS manual when you start up the car...

Sorry, out of my league. I haven't any experience with bypasses.

[RickP38]

I have also thought about doing this many times but never looked into it to far.. I still have my EAS but was going to pull the tank out and get another outlet put in it and run a air line to just inside the fuel flap.. I would be interested in what people have to say and/or what people have done also.

[PaulP38a]

I have also thought about doing this many times but never looked into it to far.. I still have my EAS but was going to pull the tank out and get another outlet put in it and run a air line to just inside the fuel flap.. I would be interested in what people have to say and/or what people have done also.

Perhaps the clever fellow in Melbourne, who has done some very cool mods to his P38A (Range Rover P38 (http://www.rehayden.com/p38.htm)), could give you a few tips?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1468.jpg

[DT-P38]

I am pretty sure Andrew E (of e-bay bypass kit fame) was looking at producing a kit or something that is designed to do this job. Hope he doesn't put the plug in point to the fuel filler area though... mine is stuffed full of lpg filler cap. If it came to it, usability would see me voting for rear bumper or under bonnet as preferred locations.

[RickP38]

Perhaps the clever fellow in Melbourne, who has done some very cool mods to his P38A (Range Rover P38 (http://www.rehayden.com/p38.htm)), could give you a few tips?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1468.jpg

He has used another air tank and compressor, does anyone know if its possible to tap into what is already there? Thanks for the link Paul, looks to be some great ideas there, I'm now going to sit and read the whole thing *goes to fridge and gets beer*

Is this the same bloke who has managed to fit a Disco 2 ARB bullbar to his P38? That I wanna do!!

[RickP38]

I am pretty sure Andrew E (of e-bay bypass kit fame) was looking at producing a kit or something that is designed to do this job. Hope he doesn't put the plug in point to the fuel filler area though... mine is stuffed full of lpg filler cap. If it came to it, usability would see me voting for rear bumper or under bonnet as preferred locations.

Both would be good

[peacey]

If you look at tank there is a drain plug on it. Depending on year you can change it over with a staight tap or drill and tap the brass plug and fit a tap a lot easier and safer than messing around with valve blocks etc. also you can change over the system to run purley of the pressure switch and tank so the valve block is not needed (worth some bucks on ebay). if you want further details pm me.

[RR01]

Hello there, This is my first post so I might be covering something that has already been covered but here goes anyway.
I am the owner of a P38A 1996 HSE and have been through the standard list of faults that can plague this particular model.
Prior to owing the P38 I have had many different cars and 4wd's ranging from a Hufflinger by Puch, landie series 1 diesel, valiant ranger, Alpha Sud (real piece of crap!), host of new cars and of course the P38 a total of 40 + cars in total. So this indicates a level of madness so forgive me if I get off track.

Back to the P38.
I purchased a one owner Gem, serviced every 10,000km for its life, so well maintained and never used for off road.
In the first 12 months (after the 3 month warranty period by 1 week won't mention the dealer but rite ter now I have no interest in promoting their after sales service) I had the following.
EAS total failure, pump failure, leaky valves, 3 air springs with perished bags.
pressure switch failure.

ABS braking Hyd pump failure

Dropped sleeve no.1 cylinder.

Purchase price of car. $26,000.00
Repair cost after spending many thousands trying my own modifications.
$22,000.00 which included a multipoint gas injection system.

The moral of the story is that the $48,000.00 spent has purchased a top shelf car that would outpace cars worth twice as much.

My car is basically standard and is used regularly for outback trips where it out performs the modified toytas and hosts of others.

I am convinced that the work I did was well worth it.
My RR is certainly No.1 in my experience.

[RR01]

If you are considering using the air suspension air for pumping up tyres etc think about the options first. A separate air compressor fits easily into the cover adjacent to the cd stacker or in the wheel storage area (even after a gas conversion. Total cost of a top shelf system is $600.00.

I have a Thomas Big Red compressor I use for this purpose. If something goes wrong with the compressor I get to drive home with no problems.
On the other hand the on board system is hooked into the computer system and is you strain the system and cause a fault to occur, you will be riding on the bump stops until you can get it reset. The replacement of the on board compressor if you fit it yourself is $600.00. The other thing to consider is that the on board compressor is a high pressure low volume pump and the pressure in the tank is set to 160Psi. So the pump up time of the empty tank is about 5 mins from empty. If you try and start the car with an empty tank you will most likely get a hard fault on the computer EAS FAULT. Tis will need to be reset by the local RR dealer. ON the other hand if you have removed the air suspension then it is up to you.

Spending time trying the manual pumping of the air suspension cured me from this for ever. The car is heavier on the driver side and the level of the car from empty fuel tank to full fuel tank take a 5 psi change to keep the car level! So manually adjusting the pressures in a constant job, one that detracts from all the good reasons for owning one of these cars n the first place.

The other major reason for not using the air tank for anything else is that condensation balance in the air system will be compromised and the air bags will end up this condensation in them and possible corrosion issues. Certainly not worth risking this.

[PaulP38a]

Is this the same bloke who has managed to fit a Disco 2 ARB bullbar to his P38? That I wanna do!!

I think was Peacey - clever bugger :)

[PaulP38a]

I am pretty sure Andrew E (of e-bay bypass kit fame) was looking at producing a kit or something that is designed to do this job. Hope he doesn't put the plug in point to the fuel filler area though... mine is stuffed full of lpg filler cap. If it came to it, usability would see me voting for rear bumper or under bonnet as preferred locations.

Lucky me... I am a beta tester of the Andrew E/SoB kit. It looks great but I haven't tried it yet as my engine is in pieces. It is intended to be mounted in the engine bay but there is no reason that you couldn't use a T-piece to run another outlet at the rear if that is what you want.

I'm also installing a Thomas air compressor from Rover Renovations to replace the standard LR compressor. Even then, I will be keeping the Black Max in the boot as a standby compressor.

Cheers, Paul.

[PaulP38a]

Purchase price of car. $26,000.00
Repair cost after spending many thousands trying my own modifications.
$22,000.00 which included a multipoint gas injection system.

The moral of the story is that the $48,000.00 spent has purchased a top shelf car that would outpace cars worth twice as much.

My car is basically standard and is used regularly for outback trips where it out performs the modified toytas and hosts of others.

I am convinced that the work I did was well worth it.
My RR is certainly No.1 in my experience.

Sounds about right. Spend something close to the purchase price within the first 2 years of ownership... $26k is a lot for a '96 unless you bought it around 2005.

P38A is definitley a love/hate relationship. Love it when it is out-performing lesser 4WD's (pretty much everyting else), hate the downtime when lesser 4WD owners have an opportunity to stick it back to us ;)

Welcome aboard this unruly ship 'o RR fools.

Cheers, Paul.

[Scouse]

I think was Peacey - clever bugger :)There was another one who did a great tutorial on RRnet. He's from Melbourne too.
Soarer someone rings a bell. He's on here too from time to time (or was at least).

[willem]

Sounds about right. Spend something close to the purchase price within the first 2 years of ownership... $26k is a lot for a '96 unless you bought it around 2005.

P38A is definitley a love/hate relationship. Love it when it is out-performing lesser 4WD's (pretty much everyting else), hate the downtime when lesser 4WD owners have an opportunity to stick it back to us ;)

Welcome aboard this unruly ship 'o RR fools.

Cheers, Paul.

;):D:p !!!

Willem

[DeanoH]

Purchase price of car. $26,000.00
Repair cost after spending many thousands trying my own modifications.
$22,000.00 which included a multipoint gas injection system.

The moral of the story is that the $48,000.00 spent has purchased a top shelf car that would outpace cars worth twice as much.



I dunno if i could be that off hand if I spent that much on the old girl.........................................not to mention the RR.

...........................welcome to the club. You've certainly shown you're as mad as the rest of us.

Deano

[RickP38]

I think was Peacey - clever bugger :)

Found it! :)


RangeRovers.net • View topic - P38 Bull Bars (http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php't=21915&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45)

[adm333]

RR01 - going to the dealers to get you EAS faults reset is soooo last century !!!

All P38 owners by now should have the free EAS unlock application and have built the special comms cable and now carry their laptop everywhere they go.

I for one am hoping that someone develops the app to run on an iPhone. Then it will be perfect.

[PaulP38a]

I for one am hoping that someone develops the app to run on an iPhone. Then it will be perfect.

Yeah that would be cool... just need a serial to USB/wireless dongle and driver to interface it.

Bring on the Blackberry version too. I'd definately pay money for that.