Look what I found

[ezyrama]

Whilst galavanting around the countryside last Friday, I stumbled across this for sale in the front paddock of a arm in Grafton NSW, now all I have to do is get the missus to let me buy another toy;) Wants $2000 for it, 2.25ltr petrol. Pretty good condition, it's been a farm vehicle, the chassis is good and the floor panels have been replaced with aluminum sheet at some stage. Has a few of the obligatory dents on the guards but only little ones.

[disco2hse]

Looks pretty tidy, and lonely too.

Alan

[ezyrama]

Would love to give it a new home,but I would have to give up the work in progress, Ralph the 11a.

[lro11]

This one just came up on fleabay

Land Rover Series 3 Ute - eBay, Passenger Vehicles, Cars, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 14-Sep-09 13:09:41 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Land-Rover-Series-3-Ute_W0QQitemZ170380336822QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car s?hash=item27ab759eb6&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)

[ezyrama]

Very similar in condition by the looks of it.

[Shonky]

And being sold by a forum member by the look of it!

[Lost Landy]

Looks nice & tidy, not the usual farmers hack lol

[ezyrama]

Hello All
I found another one, it is a diesel and sitting in a farm shed, I am seriously thinking of making him an offer on it as he wants it out of the way as it is taking up space in his machinery shed. Any idea's what I should offer, would $750.00 be too rude. It is in good nick with only a bit of bog below the passenger door. It hasn't moved for 2 years but was parked up after they drove it around the farm for the day last time his brother came home for the weekend (nostalgic drive as they both learn't to drive in it). Any thought's would be greatly appreciated,All I have to do now is get it past the wife. Hiding it in the shed at work is looking good!;)

[ezyrama]

try again! Whatdoyathink?

[JDNSW]

If there is no significant rust, it is probably worth that. If it runs reasonably with a battery put in it as well (check oil and coolant) it almost certainly is, but be aware of possible problems due to neglected maintenance that could add up to a lot of cost - having someone who knows what they are doing look at it would be worthwhile, especially if thinking of going above that figure.

John

[ezyrama]

Thanks John, I know my way around cars (rebuilt a few different ones) but what in particular do you think I should look for in the S3.

Cheers Ian

[TJWA]

Thanks John, I know my way around cars (rebuilt a few different ones) but what in particular do you think I should look for in the S3.

Cheers Ian

As long as the chassis, firewall and 2.25 Diesel are sound it is worth at least $750 IMO, a gearbox can be rebuilt for less than $500 (make sure there is no crunching between 3rd and 4th) and all the other bits can be fixed or replaced without too much fuss.

Check:
Operation of the gearbox and transfer case,
Running of the diesel under load,
Rear of the chassis underneath and where the rear crossmember joins, underneath the front spring hangers and underneath the outriggers the firewall bolts too.
Footwells in the firewall and just below the dash on the firewall, also on the outside at the bottom of the firewall where it bolts to the chassis.
Does the speedo and all the gauges work?

Is that a filler for a station wagon tank I can see at the rear?

[ezyrama]

As long as the chassis, firewall and 2.25 Diesel are sound it is worth at least $750 IMO, a gearbox can be rebuilt for less than $500 (make sure there is no crunching between 3rd and 4th) and all the other bits can be fixed or replaced without too much fuss.

Check:
Operation of the gearbox and transfer case,
Running of the diesel under load,
Rear of the chassis underneath and where the rear crossmember joins, underneath the front spring hangers and underneath the outriggers the firewall bolts too.
Footwells in the firewall and just below the dash on the firewall, also on the outside at the bottom of the firewall where it bolts to the chassis.
Does the speedo and all the gauges work?

Is that a filler for a station wagon tank I can see at the rear?

Thanks for that, I am going to have another look on Sunday, so if I get it I'll post some pic's after we clean it up and yes it has two tanks.
cheers Ian

[JDNSW]

Thanks John, I know my way around cars (rebuilt a few different ones) but what in particular do you think I should look for in the S3.

Cheers Ian

As others have suggested. If the engine runs and it can be driven, you can make a lot of checks (see below) - if the engine can't be run for any reason, it does not mean there is a major problem, but it does mean you cannot tell whether there is, and this must affect your decision.

If the engine can be run, check operation of the engine, getting it warm. It should run evenly and start easily (first compression this time of year) once fuel system is bled if this is needed. Black smoke is probably not a major problem, blue or white smoke could be, same for uneven running or hard starting. It will be very noisy, but this is normal.

Check operation of clutch, brake all gears, high/low and four wheel drive. Check brakes work and don't pull. Watch for jumping out of gear, and strange noises (transfer case is usually noisy by car standards.

But I would take a good look at some of the other bits that will reflect how it has been maintained. Look at the spring shackles - the shackle pins should be in the centre of the spring eye, and there should be no sideways play. Check for broken leaves or leaves wedged apart by rust. Check the steering for free play - should be less than 5cm free play on the rim of the steering wheel, and all the free play should be in the steering box.

Check that all lights and other electrical equipment work, and look at all visible bits of wiring harness for signs of overheating. Look at the floor below the pedals for signs of brake fluid leaking. Check condition of seat cushions. Check condition and fitting of seat belts.

Check that the chassis number (should be on LH rear back spring hanger) is the same as the one on the manufacturer's plate (should be in front of gearlever) and the compliance plate (if fitted - most S3 have them - either near the radiator header tank or behind the engine). Different numbers mean you would be opening a can of worms - its probably a bitzer.

The biggest concern is probably rust - in the firewall or bulkhead, probably worst below the windscreen and near the door hinges, rust in the footwells is a lot easier to repair. In the chassis, look where mud would be thrown up from the wheels, rear crossmember, outrigger attachment points, top of chassis and bumper attachment area. Use a screwdriver to try and punch holes.

Don't worry too much about oil leaks - many seals will need replacing anyway just from disuse, but if the engine looks to be leaking oil everywhere, it probably has a lot of blowby, suggesting worn rings. Check prop shafts for worn U-joints and splines. U-joints are easy and inexpensive (splines are not) but the concern would be if they have not been replaced if needed suggesting neglect. Pull the level plugs on both diffs and swivel housings and see what is in them - if oil, you are in luck - if oily, probably OK, if rusty or water - expensive. If possible, jack up at least the front wheels, and check for free play on swivels and wheel bearings. Again, not a major expense, but a symptom of neglect.



Hope this helps.

John

[Disco Denmark]

Following on in the same line of thought.
I have recently purchased a 1981 Series 3 109 2.25 petrol fitted with tray back. After serious thoughts and a little discussion with the "Manager for Big Expenditures" I paid $2000 for it
It has had everything except the brake pedal replaced in the braking system coz of corrosion to the lines and wheel cylinders.
Apart from both front guards having dents from pushing cows it is in pretty good knick. Minimal rust elsewhere...Kept in a shed most of it's life.
Main thing going for it is that the service book is up to date with a genuine 65000km and only two owners prior to me.

It is not a restoration project yet as I use it as my work truck (towing tinny to beach and rubbish to tip etc) while "MfBE" drives around in 'her' TD5 auto.

Glad to read that there are others with an interest in these "proper" Landrovers.

Disco Denmark

[ezyrama]

Well I got it.
My son has just got his learners permit and he asked me if he could have it for his first car. Picked it up last week and all we had to do was put some deisel in the tank, bleed the lines to the injectors and she fired 2nd go.(like to see some of the jap crap do that after 10 years idle). It drives quite well, the front passenger brake need looking at (sticks a bit) and there is a bit of rust in the drivers foot well and the two outriggers on the passenger side,other than that it's cleaned up a treat. The dash isn't cracked at all, it has 3, yes 3 deisel tanks and a water tank behind the seats, an overhead console,storage boxes on the back seat shelves including a dual battery setup and overhead shelves above the seat shelves with speakers mounted in the ends facing towards the front seats. The doors are corrosion free and the original door cards are in 1/2 decent condition although I will be replacing the shortly. All the electrics seem to work except for the left blinker but it's probaberly the flasher unit. The valve stem seals need replacing and I was thinking of doing the head gasket whilst I had it apart. I found a rat's nest on top of the passenger's fuel tank which explains the lovely aroma inside the cab (the air cond deodoriser I sell worked a treat on that) It starts and stops and runs well but I think I may be up for a new clutch, it picks up at the very top of the peddle travel and slips a bit in 3rd and 4th. I haven't had a good look yet but it looks like a slightly different set up to Ralph my 11a, is there much adjustment there??? I will post some pic's next week when I have finished gerni-ing it for the 6th time to show the difference. The amount of black soil from the Stanthorpe region that has come out of it so far could have top dressed my front yard twice over.

Cheers Ian

[JDNSW]

Well I got it.
..... I haven't had a good look yet but it looks like a slightly different set up to Ralph my 11a, is there much adjustment there???......

Cheers Ian

Sounds as if you have a good buy. The clutch has no adjustment - it is self adjusting, and yes, the arrangement is different to your 2a. The slave cylinder is on the LH side of the flywheel housing and acts directly on a release fork, not like the 2a via a cross shaft and levers. It sounds as if the clutch is about done. Means gearbox (or engine) out, although on a 2a I have managed to replace a clutch plate just moving the box back.

John

[ezyrama]

Thanks John
BTW My young bloke wants to call it "Smeg" for all of you that knows the Red Dwarf tv show:). Hey John, are all the clutch kits for the S111 the same or are there variations? I have the Gold Coast brake and clutch guy in the same complex as me, he is very good but I dont think his guy's are interested in something this old (6/77 model) so I will do it myself me thinks.

Cheers
Ian

[Outlaw]

Good work. More pics :D

[ezyrama]

Good work. More pics :D

Watch this space! :)

Cheers Ian

[TJWA]

Thanks John
BTW My young bloke wants to call it "Smeg" for all of you that knows the Red Dwarf tv show:). Hey John, are all the clutch kits for the S111 the same or are there variations? I have the Gold Coast brake and clutch guy in the same complex as me, he is very good but I dont think his guy's are interested in something this old (6/77 model) so I will do it myself me thinks.

Cheers
Ian

The Series 3 4cyl and 6cyl clutch kit is the same ASFAIK, there are some heavy duty variations too, but they should all fit. Someone please correct me if this is not true!

Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast. ;)

[d@rk51d3]

Looks like we've got a few "Boys from the Dwarf" here. :twobeers:

[ezyrama]

Looks like we've got a few "Boys from the Dwarf" here. :twobeers:

Apparently "Back to Earth" is available next month. Can't wait!

[Slunnie]

That Shorty SIII looks the goods. You'd be laughing at $750!

[korg20000bc]

It'd be like calling your car "Dick Cheese".

[isuzurover]

It'd be like calling your car "Dick Cheese".

Not exactly, there is a difference between "smeg" and "smegma" ;)



Btw - looks like a great little truck - well done!

Fit some extractors and a 12V vac pump (or vac alternator) instead of the butterfly valve and it should go well!

[korg20000bc]

Yeah.
I never wanted to wash anything in those Smeg brand dishwashers.

But the reference was to Red Dwarf and the use of "Smeg Head" and "What the smeg!?" which clearly was an abbreviated smegma reference.

[isuzurover]

only 2 letters ;)

The Red Dwarf "Smeg" was probably a shortening of the word to get round the censors

Besides....everyone would just THINK Smegma :D
I would anyway!!

Well you must just have a dirty mind... ;) :wasntme:


The show's creators (Grant Naylor) have stated it was not related to a medical term and was a made up swear word. The show has consistently claimed to know nothing[citation needed] of the word "smegma" (A whitish sebaceous secretion that collects between the glans penis and foreskin or in the vulva), and that "smeg" was entirely made up, sounding as it did like a generic, four-letter, single-syllable swear-word that might be used in the future (and so could be used in the programme in place of swear words that, at the time, would not usually be used in mainstream sitcoms).

Lexicographer Tony Thorne, in his 1990 Dictionary of Contemporary Slang (ISBN 0-7475-2856-X), reports instances of "smeg" (and derivatives) being used as a term of "mild contempt and even affection" among "schoolboys, students and punks" as early as the mid-1970s — a decade or so prior to the inception of the Red Dwarf phenomenon — and claims unequivocally that the etymology of the term traces back to "smegma".

In the "Let's Swear" item in Bachelor Boys, the Young Ones book, the character Rick, played by Rik Mayall, calls another character "smeg face".

"Smeg" is also the name of a manufacturer of electrical appliances, notably fridge freezers.

Smeg is much older than red dwarf it seems...

Since SMEG appliances was founded in 1948, it is just as likely that "smeg head" meant your head is the shape of a fridge.

Given that SMEG (FAB) are well known for making retro style fridges, calling a series landrover SMEG seems to fit perfectly ;)

[ezyrama]

My young bloke Nathan (Smeg's owner) brought home a copy of "back to earth" the other day, If you haven't seen it I wont spoil it for the "Boys from the Dwarf" it is worth watching, but nothing like I expected!

Cheers Ian