one_iota's front recovery points

[one_iota]

I was sitting on the veranda the other day pondering some of the big questions in life and found my attention drawn to the front of the Defender. It's not the first time that the niggling concern about lack of front recovery points has invaded my thoughts.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1117.jpg




So I hatched a plan and here is the recipe:

Ingredients:

2 x 10,000 lb recovery hooks (the type you can get from any good 4wd store)

2 x 3/8" UNF bolts, grade 5 or 8, 5 1/2" length. Zinc plated. Appropriate washers and nylock nuts

1 ARB bull bar to match:

1 09 MY Defender (or similar)

Method: (for one side)

Remove the bolt (the bottom bolt in the before photo) that runs through the chassis, steering protector existing recovery ring and of course the bull bar. This existing hole has a crush tube.

Before photo:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1118.jpg

Discard the recovery ring.

Discard one of the 1/2" bolts that comes with the hook

Bolt the hook to the outside of the bull bar with the 5 1/2" bolt. Tighten sufficiently to still allow the hook to rotate.

Mark the location of the hole for the second bolt that came with the hook. This will bolt through the web of the bull bar section that mounts to the chassis. Be careful when locating the hole for the second bolt that there is room for the washer and nut below the chassis rail.

Drill the hole and paint.

Rotate the hook into position for the second bolt, insert bolt and tighten both nuts.

Outside view:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1119.jpg


View from the inside of the chassis rail The bottom bolt fixed is through the web of the bull bar. The top bolt through the chassis rail.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/1120.jpg





Repeat for the other side.


:coplight:

As usual the necessary disclaimers are applied to this as it hasn't been tested under working conditions. Copy and use at your own risk.

And of course comments welcome :)

[Scallops]

Very nice! A recipe for the Land Rover cookbook. Are the pictures of one you prepared earlier? :p

[austastar]

Hi,
thanks for the posting and the photos, it is some thing I am pondering my self.

A few questions if I may.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/188.jpg

Is the hole (ringed in yellow) promoted as shackle attachment point at all?

I like the idea of the hook putting the load directly on the chassis, but is it possible to mount a hook with out the extra point provided by drilling the bull bar?

cheers

[Jim621]

Nice install - looks solid as!

Ideally you would want the hook pointing straight in the direction of the load from the snatch/tow rope. ie horizontal. By the looks of your setup you have done the best thats possible without drilling a hole through the chassis rail.

Did you install this on both the left and right side of the vehicle?

Steve.

[one_iota]

Is the hole (ringed in yellow) promoted as shackle attachment point at all?

I like the idea of the hook putting the load directly on the chassis, but is it possible to mount a hook with out the extra point provided by drilling the bull bar?



Hi austastar,

There have been conflicting reports about the strength and suitablity of those existing points. My gut feeling is that under load particularly any lateral force/moment they would bend. Also I have an aversion to using shackles unless there is no other way.So the idea putting shackles through those holes makes my skin creep. I think those points are suited for stowing the winch cable hook

The hooks allow me to use a bridle strap without shackles fed through the fairlead hole in the Bull Bar (I dont' contemplate installing a winch). The bridle strap is fed through the snatch or towing strap eye again without a shackle attachment.

Fixing the hooks horizontally could be achieved by using one bolt but that "halves" the connection to the vehicle and again I'm not comfortable with that. Alternatively you could drill through the chassis for the second fixing but the chassis looks a little complicated in that area.

[one_iota]

Nice install - looks solid as!

Ideally you would want the hook pointing straight in the direction of the load from the snatch/tow rope. ie horizontal. By the looks of your setup you have done the best thats possible without drilling a hole through the chassis rail.

Did you install this on both the left and right side of the vehicle?

Steve.

Yes both sides as explained above :)

[isuzurover]

On my county I found that while the holes in the dumb iron are only 3/8", the diameter of the crush tube is larger than 1/2". So I drilled the holes in the chassis and the bullbar out to 0.5"

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Bored with plain black steering dampers?:o

[isuzurover]

[[B]Bored with plain black steering dampers?:o]

I think you will find that is rust...

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I think you will find that is rust...

:Rolling::Rolling:

[one_iota]

But none of you smart arses have spotted the drop of oil suspended on the bottom of the steering box...:p :D

[Barra1]

One Iota I have done exactly the same procedure - and used the hooks in anger;)

The system works:D

A couple of blokes have said "that's no good, the hooks will break" and "you've got to have the hooks pulling level"

I want someone to define "level" to me - especially as every recovery will have different angles.

Anyway, I'm glad you have posted your set-up.

Note: I've always used the equaliser strap.

[Scallops]

What a good thread - and what a great set of front recovery points...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/77447-scallops-recovery-points.html

[one_iota]

:D Yeah I know....

[n plus one]

What a good thread - and what a great set of front recovery points...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/77447-scallops-recovery-points.html

Hey Scallops - you run your second bolt (the one not using the the original anti-crush tube hole) the whole way through the chassis, or just through one side.

Hmm, maybe better explained by asking - you running two 140mm bolts per hook or one 140mm and one short (50-60mm) one? (kinda like Iota's)

PS nice work on both these threads gentlemen - very useful info.

[Scallops]

Hey Scallops - you run your second bolt (the one not using the the original anti-crush tube hole) the whole way through the chassis, or just through one side.

Hmm, maybe better explained by asking - you running two 140mm bolts per hook or one 140mm and one short (50-60mm) one? (kinda like Iota's)

PS nice work on both these threads gentlemen - very useful info.

The latter - one 140mm and one shorter.

[malsgoing130]

I have seen those hooks bend, not snap luckily, under load, i dont trust them at all. I think they are all made in China. About 6 months ago I made up some templates to go from the bull bar mounting bolts to the front of those ARB eyes on the bull bar basically copying the the ARB mount. It would require a bit of grinding and welding to get them ito position but i think this is the best solution (going to use 8 or 10mm plate). All I need to do is find the time to go to the laser cutters and get the thing fabed upIll take pictures then and post them. Dont hold breath though might take a while.
Mal

[n plus one]

I have seen those hooks bend, not snap luckily, under load, i dont trust them at all. I think they are all made in China. About 6 months ago I made up some templates to go from the bull bar mounting bolts to the front of those ARB eyes on the bull bar basically copying the the ARB mount. It would require a bit of grinding and welding to get them ito position but i think this is the best solution (going to use 8 or 10mm plate). All I need to do is find the time to go to the laser cutters and get the thing fabed upIll take pictures then and post them. Dont hold breath though might take a while.
Mal

Forged hooks bend :), the cast ones snap :o.

They'll bend/snap if loaded right up on the tips (or over loaded anywhere).

I'm happy that a well mounted pair bridled will hold for anything but the most extreme recovery.

Having said that, your solution sounds much better - I look forward to stealing the idea from you once it's posted:p

[Mellow Yellow]

I fitted front recovery hooks to Peril as I didn't fancy using the reinforced eyes on the ARB winch bar.

I used 75 x 50 x 6 unequal angle which was a bit of an overkill but it was all I could get hold of at the time. I wanted to get the recovery hooks as far forward as I could without impeding the ARB reinforced eyes to minimise a bridle rubbing on the winch bar. (I always use a bridle.)

The recovery hook bolts attach to the winch bar whilst the rear bolt goes through the chasis rail.

Can't say I'm impressed with how the recovery hook bolts and the retainer clips are rusting. I only put them on about three months ago.

[Benny_IIA]

I think you will find that is rust...


It must have run out of oil:angel:

[Drover]

Just finished fitting my recovery hooks, as per info from One_Iota and Scallops :D.

Little bit of extra cutting to make to SVX steering guard fit - but simple enough.

Thanks boys for idea and detailed instruction - very worth while thread.

Cheers
Grant

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Thought Id show you how I addressed the problem.

360 degree rotating points. Used with a shackle you get movement in both plains to minimise stresses when under load. They work a treat.

The only problem was getting the mag drill to stick to the bumper while I cut the holes.

Jon

[Gav110]

Another option is the after market tubular winch bar supplied by RovaCraft or LR Tuning. Has a factory option for pivoting recovery hooks.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Gavster, is that bar on your vehicle or a sales photo? Did you have to trim the grill?
I'm a bit worried, I bought that bar from Rovacraft, who assured me it was okay for an aircon County and Warn Hi-mount. The LR Tuning site lists different bars for the Hi Mount versus other winches and requires trimming for a/c vehicles.

[Allan]

Gavster, is that bar on your vehicle or a sales photo? Did you have to trim the grill?
I'm a bit worried, I bought that bar from Rovacraft, who assured me it was okay for an aircon County and Warn Hi-mount. The LR Tuning site lists different bars for the Hi Mount versus other winches and requires trimming for a/c vehicles.

I just bought and fitted one of these bars to the wifes ninety. I didnt have to cut anything to fit the winch but I used a T max winch so this may make a difference. By the way Gavster what price are the pivoting recovery hooks for the bar.

Allan

[Gav110]

Hi boys - that photo was a LR Tuning bar - I think I downloaded the photo from AULRO (sorry can't remember!) but the RovaCraft bar looks very similar (see Rovacraft (http://www.rovacraft.com.au/products/nswspecials.html)).

The RovaCraft bar costs $850, plus $95 for each pivoting recovery point - according to a quote I got a few months ago. The matching alloy steering guard costs an extra $330.

Daniel / Mulgo is ordering and fitting mine to my new Puma - hopefully this week.

For my needs it's the best looking, best approach angle, takes most winches, lightest full bar and offers reasonable protection - and has the inbuilt rated points just where you want them and pivoting - though I agree with those who believe the ARB bar will protect against an animal strike better.

My rationale is the bar will need replacement either way at a decent speed, and I don't believe there is likely to be a significant safety difference relative to the nature of the vehicle. Plus it keeps it looking like a Defender - not a Troopy ;)

[firsttimedefender]

Couple of JATE rings from Rovacraft did the same job for me. Yours looks a bit stronger though as you've attached to chassis and bullbar. Jate rings only connect to chassis and I had to 'modify' the wombat bar to fit.
I wouldn't want to be snatching that hard that you'd damage the chassis - if you're that stuck use a jack and lift the vehicle out first (ie fill in the bog under jacked up wheels). I haven't tested mine yet either, it's hard to get bogged!

Just a word for all the snatcher's out there: I heard a good technique to test if a snatch will work. Put the handbrake on the bogged vehicle and get the tower to take up tension. Release handbrake on the stuck vehicle - if it has some movement, then try a snatch. If no movement, it's unlikely a snatch will work without massive forces and damage; don't snatch; use another method (jack or winch).