TD5 manual holding on to revs when changing gear

[andymach23]

Hi

I've a manual TD5 (MY 2000) and when I change from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd the revs don't drop off fully. It's as if my foot is still resting on the throttle sightly. It has only started doing it and is getting worse.

Is this the throttle mechanism on the way out or does it needed lubed somewhere?

Cheers, Andy

[Redback]

I get this too occasionally, have done for as long as I have had the car, I think it's more to do with not getting off the throttle early enough.

Mine has 220,000ks, you'll probably find others have this in their manual TD5s too, it is especially bad if your really on the throttle and trying to get to 2nd quickly so as to not loose momentum.

Baz.

[justinc]

Try disconnecting the clutch switch in the engine compartment, near drivers inner guard in the d2, and see what happens. The clutch switch is an input for the ECU to tell it when operator is selecting gear. I have succesfully solvd this problem by unplugging the switch before, not really sure it is necessary anyway, but possibly for smooth gear changes etc by letting revs down slowly?

B-A-S or Tombie2 should be able to add some further info about this, meanwhile I'll do some more research...:)

JC

[andymach23]

Try disconnecting the clutch switch in the engine compartment, near drivers inner guard in the d2, and see what happens. The clutch switch is an input for the ECU to tell it when operator is selecting gear. I have succesfully solvd this problem by unplugging the switch before, not really sure it is necessary anyway, but possibly for smooth gear changes etc by letting revs down slowly?

B-A-S or Tombie2 should be able to add some further info about this, meanwhile I'll do some more research...:)

JC


Thanks Justin. I'll try unplugging the switch and see what happens. Maybe its defective!

I used to think I was changing too quick but its doing it now with more gentle changes. Also started doing it from 2nd to 3rd which it didn't do before. Also no extra revs between 3rd and 4th.

Cheers, Andy

[Graeme]

Contrary to what's in the workshop manual, the switch is normally open circuit but meant to go closed circuit when there's pressure in the clutch line. If the switch isn't closing then the ecm wont do its anti-flaring bit. Disconnecting the switch equates to clutch never depressed. If the switch is faulty and is permanently closed then cruise control should not be functioning as depressing the clutch also cancels CC.

I can't fathom why disconnecting the switch improves gear changes unless the switch is faulty by way of being permanently closed circuit and the ecm applies some funny logic if it thinks the clutch is always depressed. I've certainly found that my engine flares if the switch is disconnected.

[justinc]

Ah, thanks Graeme, I was under the impression it was N/C, although I have never actually tested one...BUT it did make a difference to the flaring on 1 D2 and 1 Defender when I disconnected it.

They still have disconnected switches several years down the track with no ill effects. Are you sure the D2 uses this switch for cruise? I'm certain they still have the pedal switch under the dash:confused:.

JC

[Graeme]

Ah no, JC, I'm not that sure about the CC bit come to think of it as its directly from the WSM which I had already found to be incorrect. There are quite a few errors that I've found where presumably the design changed after the manual was written, such as the high coolant temp light being turned-on by the ecm when its actually done by instruments from the pwm signal for the temperature gauge and even then incorrectly for the TD5 engine although correctly for the V8.

[Urban Panzer]

The clutch switch MUST dis-engage the cruise control,( as it does with all cars I have ever had with manual + cruise) if it didnt and you "dipped" the clutch with cruise on, then engine would rev its nuts off!!!

EDIT, just re -read the post , The must be a switch under the pedal for the CC

[andymach23]

I just had another test at this today. Tried being very careful with lifting off the throttle first before dipping the clutch.

It still keeps the revs up but its intermittent.

[spudboy]

Any oil in your loom?

[Graeme]

JC,
My D2 does not have a switch on the clutch pedal so the m/c switch has to trigger CC cancellation, as per the WSM.

[justinc]

JC,
My D2 does not have a switch on the clutch pedal so the m/c switch has to trigger CC cancellation, as per the WSM.

Thanks Graeme, I will check the 2001 D2 manual that I have done this to and see, If the switch isn't there I'll reconnect the clutch switch then:(
After 3 years I would say he would've encountered a problem by now:o
Or maybe he is lucky and hasn't used the CC that way:eek:

Thanks for the clarification.

JC

[Redback]

After reading all the comments about this, I'll stick with my theory:p

Baz.

[andymach23]

Any oil in your loom?

Yes there is some on the red plug. I swapped the loom about six months ago and haven't checked for residual oil lately.

Once I get my hands on some suitable cleaner I'll report back.

Cheers, Andy

[andymach23]

It was the clutch switch in the end. Engine flaring on changing gear has stopped.:D

Cheers, Andy

[LandyAndy]

Andy if you are still geting residual oil at the ECU,2 tips.
Install the ECU upside down so the red plug is lowest and remove the rubber seal inside the red plug.REMEMBER to re-instal before playing in water or after the oil is gone.
Andrew

[Redback]

Just adding a comment on my over rev when changing gears, mine has stopped now as well, right after I changed from my early B Davis chipped ECU, to a new D2a update flashable ECU non chipped:eek:

Seems a lot of my problems has stemmed from my BDavis chip, high idle, rough start up in the cold, over run when changing gears, strange missing under power, noisy fuel pump, excessive smoke, VERY high EGTs, all of which have gone now:D

So we had the same problem with a different solution to solve it, mine being a tad more expensive:D

Baz.