It lives! but the o-rings still need doing

[PaulP38a]

So I got the last bits of the engine back together yesterday and was planning to do the heater o-rings today... but I got impatient.
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/2185-1/RR-Engine-368.jpg

In hindsight, the smart thing would have been to loop the coolant rails and bypass the heater matrix but in my optimism I just connected them up.
Reconnected the battery, turned the key around to start, re-set the windows and kicked it over.

First time I got "engine fault", "airbag fault" and "engine disabled" messages. Pressed the lock button on the keyfob and tried again... only the "airbag fault" message.

The engine started straight off, idled up to around 1200rpm for 10-20secs then dropped down to about 800rpm... sounded quite nice. :cool:
let it run for about a minute when I noticed smoke coming from both sides of the engine around the exhaust heat shields. Switched the engine off and could not find anything obvious... I guess it must be where I cleaned the heat shields with WD-40 and it is burning off.

Switched the engine on again and let it run for a while as I watched the coolant level drop in the tank and topped up the coolant until it became stable.
Here's a tip: don't switch off the engine with the coolant expansion tank cap removed unless you want to wash that side of the engine bay with hot coolant.

Turned the engine on again and re-topped-up the coolant and thought it would be smart to let it circulate through the heater cores, so turned up the heat in the cabin and noticed a steady drip of red coolant to the floor.
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/2212-1/IMG_1247.JPG

and looking up to the heater matrix pipes
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/2215-1/IMG_1249.JPG

A job for another day, but I can't risk driving it like this.

Plugged in the FaultMate to clear the SRS Airbag fault "LH airbag open cicuit". Said it cleared it, but there it was again next time I switched the ignition on.

Also removed the old EAS Bypass Kit and installed one of Andy's Bypass kits instead. It's a beauty and so far, no leaks :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Onya Andy/ Andrew e/ Son of Bundalene :D

Cheers, Paul.

[andrew e]

For the people who dont know paul, he is a computer/IT/programing bloke or something, with no formal training as anything mechanical. To tackle a top end rebuild on a Thor motor, and take the time to document it for everyone to look on is something to be commended. You are a true landrover enthusiast, and i am proud to have been of help.

Good work mate.

Andy

[PaulP38a]

Thanks for the kind words Andy... I may work in an IT related field these days but I did a Mechanical Engineering degree at UNSW in the late 80's/early 90's... not that it would really help with a P38A motor.. I should have paid more attention to the electronics subjects ;) I didn't last as a mechanical engineer for very long before being drawn to the "dark side" :)

The doco of the rebuild/refresh is a work in progress at Engine Refresh (top end) PaulP38A.com (http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/engine-refresh/) but the pics are all up at Engine Refresh (http://paulp38a.com/gallery/v/99RR/Engine/)
Cheers, Paul.

[mike 90 RR]

.... Well done Paul

Mike

[andrew e]

but I did a Mechanical Engineering degree at UNSW in the late 80's/early 90's....


oops.

i didnt mean a thing i said then......:D





I meant a trade in anything mechanical.

Andy

[PaulP38a]

I meant a trade in anything mechanical.


Yeah, very true. I wish I could weld and work with metal. Maybe I could enroll in a TAFE course in my copius amounts of spare time :o. Maybe one day I will. A man's got to have a hobby. Mine will require a much bigger garage, a pit and a hoist, and a selection of expensive toys that need 3-phase power ;)

[p38arover]

Well done on getting it back together and running. Bad luck about the O-rings.



Turned the engine on again and re-topped-up the coolant and thought it would be smart to let it circulate through the heater cores, so turned up the heat in the cabin

It makes no difference whether the heater is on hot or cold. The heater doesn't have a water tap so coolant flows all the time.

[willem]

Bewdy, Paul!

Good to see you get it done.

the heater O rings are a pain, tho! But if you can do a top end rebuild you can do the heater O rings.

Willem

[Hoges]

:BigThumb:
goodonya!

[Remy]

well done!;)

[adm333]

Bloody hell mate ...... :TakeABow:

That is awesome, Your write up is fantastic, and serves to prove that I should never attempt this myself.

.... and you were daunted by the brake bleed procedure :confused::confused:

[PaulP38a]

I must say that all the congrats from you blokes is very gratifying :D however this is really a shared success, as it was your very helpful advice and encouragement that helped me get through it, and you provided it in a very timely manner when I needed it most.

The success of this project is largely attributable to THIS forum. My thanks to the AULRO P38A Range Rover forum:clap2:

I hope this isn't premature... the car sounds good in the garage but I haven't taken it on a run yet or put the engine under any real load :o

Cheers, Paul.