View Full Version : anti rust units
stig0000
21st September 2009, 10:40 PM
im sure if you have bort a new car they tryed to flog you a rust controler of sum sort, most of them just stick to sum part of the body and have prity LEDs on it so it looks like its doing sumthing,,
but do you beleave they actuly stop rust, cos i no with my fender it has aloy body so it shouldent rust enyway,,, but the chassi still can rust,, my car has been on the beach 2 times in its 5yr life, an has not one touch of rust on it, cos i just will not take on the salt water beachs,
so can enyone actuly prof they work and stop rust,
you hear storys of ppl that have them on there 20 yr old ute that has lived on the beach an all they do it sorta wash it after and its fine, ,, but im not that convinced,
dullbird
21st September 2009, 11:42 PM
I heard EGR blanking plates work better :D
chunk
22nd September 2009, 01:50 AM
I don't know if these systems work or not, a lot of people on this site will tell you it's snake oil and they are probably right. In saying that if you go to the web sites of these company's you will find a lot of other well known company's, government departments and local councils listed as satisfied customers.
Personally I wouldn't be spending the money on something like that unless it came with a 100% we'll fix the rust if it doesn't work guarantee. IMO you cant beat fish oil, lanolin and wax oil type products. At least with these products you know that they work, if used properly.
Grimace
22nd September 2009, 05:46 AM
My whole story is goin to contradict it self but here it is.
Years ago (read 1994) we had one fitted to our family 80 series and we took it to beaches, around the cape, through the kimberlys. Got it bogged in mud, salt flats etc etc. Never washed it while on the trips away, but it got a good wash at home.
The vehcile had minimal signs of rust after 8 years of use (with a lot of offroad trips).
We moved to the gold coast in 1998 and my father purchased a tour company that came with two well looked after troop carriers that were use to take tourist to north stradbroke island almost every day of the week.
Dad had the rust prevention fitted to these first two vehicles. They seemed to hold up ok but were rusting.
Throuought the ten years that my father has been part of this business he has been through about 7 vehicles, and the last lot are not fitted with the rust prevention systems.
The reason for this is my father did not beleive they worked that well, and to be honest I did agree with him at the time. BUT now after helping my father working on two of the current vehicles, I think I am changing my mind.
Ont of the vehicles was so badly rusted i could not make out where the chassis ended and the bull bar started, the spring hangers are shocking, and even the engines sump had to be replaced cause it was rusted through :eek:.
The following issues may only related to the toyota troopies but I will tell you about them. They cracked around the windscreens very early in life (new vehicles) after only 4 months of use, the rust took no longer then 9 months to set in and by 12 months they vehicles required the windscreens out and the frames welded up and resprayed.
I have a ERPS system that I bought back in 2004 that i never fitted to a vehcile and i am goin to convince my father to install it to his next Troop carrier to see if it does indeed make any difference.
In about 12 months I will have a much better idea on if these units work or not.
Cheers
Grimace
p.s. All the systems, and current experience we have are of the ERPS brand. Have not tested any other brand.
JDNSW
22nd September 2009, 05:47 AM
They have been discussed here before, and a search would find all the details.
The technique is widely used in, for example, offshore or shoreside installations such as hydrocarbon production platforms, and on underground pipelines, where it is quite effective. However, it only works on those parts of the structure that are always under water - for example, on an oil production platform, they will protect the part of the structure that is always below water, but do nothing to protect the part that is above water level, or even the bits that are sometimes above water level, in the wave zone.
Therefore, it is clear that they will protect you Landrover - provided that it is always totally submerged in water. While this condition rules out most owners, there may be a small number who meet this requirement, particularly careless beach drivers who fail to consult tide tables.
John
stig0000
22nd September 2009, 05:48 AM
I heard EGR blanking plates work better :D
haha,, oh god,,, i hope this dont tern out to be one of them threds agen:D,,
scott oz
22nd September 2009, 07:10 AM
My whole story is goin to contradict it self but here it is.
.................................................. .......
In about 12 months I will have a much better idea on if these units work or not.
Cheers
Grimace
p.s. All the systems, and current experience we have are of the ERPS brand. Have not tested any other brand.
Mate it will be a good comparison so I hope in 12 months to see your update.
isuzurover
22nd September 2009, 01:05 PM
My whole story is goin to contradict it self but here it is.
Years ago (read 1994) we had one fitted to our family 80 series and we took it to beaches, around the cape, through the kimberlys. Got it bogged in mud, salt flats etc etc. Never washed it while on the trips away, but it got a good wash at home.
The vehcile had minimal signs of rust after 8 years of use (with a lot of offroad trips).
We moved to the gold coast in 1998 and my father purchased a tour company that came with two well looked after troop carriers that were use to take tourist to north stradbroke island almost every day of the week.
Dad had the rust prevention fitted to these first two vehicles. They seemed to hold up ok but were rusting.
Throuought the ten years that my father has been part of this business he has been through about 7 vehicles, and the last lot are not fitted with the rust prevention systems.
The reason for this is my father did not beleive they worked that well, and to be honest I did agree with him at the time. BUT now after helping my father working on two of the current vehicles, I think I am changing my mind.
Ont of the vehicles was so badly rusted i could not make out where the chassis ended and the bull bar started, the spring hangers are shocking, and even the engines sump had to be replaced cause it was rusted through :eek:.
The following issues may only related to the toyota troopies but I will tell you about them. They cracked around the windscreens very early in life (new vehicles) after only 4 months of use, the rust took no longer then 9 months to set in and by 12 months they vehicles required the windscreens out and the frames welded up and resprayed.
I have a ERPS system that I bought back in 2004 that i never fitted to a vehcile and i am goin to convince my father to install it to his next Troop carrier to see if it does indeed make any difference.
In about 12 months I will have a much better idea on if these units work or not.
Cheers
Grimace
p.s. All the systems, and current experience we have are of the ERPS brand. Have not tested any other brand.
Will be interested to see the results. Could just be that Toyota have skimped on rustproofing in recent years like Land Rover???
Grimace
22nd September 2009, 03:16 PM
Will be interested to see the results. Could just be that Toyota have skimped on rustproofing in recent years like Land Rover???
Hmm very true. More then likely this will be the case.
They just rust almost instantly these days :eek:
stig0000
22nd September 2009, 06:05 PM
Hmm very true. More then likely this will be the case.
They just rust almost instantly these days :eek:
yer,, iv seen new fenders com it for delivery with 2 ks on them,, and the door bolts,antiroll bars an lil bits of suspention starting to rust, ,, and there a brande new car,
newhue
4th December 2010, 06:04 AM
My whole story is goin to contradict it self but here it is.
Years ago (read 1994) we had one fitted to our family 80 series and we took it to beaches, around the cape, through the kimberlys. Got it bogged in mud, salt flats etc etc. Never washed it while on the trips away, but it got a good wash at home.
The vehcile had minimal signs of rust after 8 years of use (with a lot of offroad trips).
We moved to the gold coast in 1998 and my father purchased a tour company that came with two well looked after troop carriers that were use to take tourist to north stradbroke island almost every day of the week.
Dad had the rust prevention fitted to these first two vehicles. They seemed to hold up ok but were rusting.
Throuought the ten years that my father has been part of this business he has been through about 7 vehicles, and the last lot are not fitted with the rust prevention systems.
The reason for this is my father did not beleive they worked that well, and to be honest I did agree with him at the time. BUT now after helping my father working on two of the current vehicles, I think I am changing my mind.
Ont of the vehicles was so badly rusted i could not make out where the chassis ended and the bull bar started, the spring hangers are shocking, and even the engines sump had to be replaced cause it was rusted through :eek:.
The following issues may only related to the toyota troopies but I will tell you about them. They cracked around the windscreens very early in life (new vehicles) after only 4 months of use, the rust took no longer then 9 months to set in and by 12 months they vehicles required the windscreens out and the frames welded up and resprayed.
I have a ERPS system that I bought back in 2004 that i never fitted to a vehcile and i am goin to convince my father to install it to his next Troop carrier to see if it does indeed make any difference.
In about 12 months I will have a much better idea on if these units work or not.
Cheers
Grimace
p.s. All the systems, and current experience we have are of the ERPS brand. Have not tested any other brand.
Grimace...Grimace has there been a conclusion?
I'm interested in one for my new car. I have noticed some minor rust on the A pillar where it meets the floor. Also noticed Bundalene's rebuild has the same. Since it is a new vehicle I don't have the greatest great belief that LR make a particularly rust proofed car, and thought an ERPS may help out on the steel PUMA's.
Bearman
4th December 2010, 06:35 AM
I will put my 2 bobs worth in here. I have a 1986 County which like 99% of them had some rust in the door frame bottoms and in the double skinned area of the floor kickpanels when I bought it. I intend one day to replace the door frame sections and get the lot galvanised and cut/shut the floor sections. Removing the firewall and galvanising it is a bit too big a job for me. About 10years ago I bought one of these ERPS (electronic rust protection systems), and fitted about 12 electrodes allround the body, including 1 inside each door on the frame. I can honestly say that I think it has stopped the rust that is already there from getting any worse. The anodes get a powdery coating on them. I was pretty sceptical initially but now I believe they do work. The only disadvantage I have found is that it will flatten the battery if the vehicle is not used regularly.
Tombie
4th December 2010, 06:59 AM
Amazingly my beach driven since new Discovery has no rust to speak off..
Even after the recent mud flat recovery it performed to rescue a stuck Jeep Grand Cherokee and a 6 tonne 4x4 truck.
Its called washing :cool:
I use Staun Salt Assalt and Staun 329 to clean down the vehicle.
I spend the time clearing the chassis and underbody...
And thats it... 10 years old and no problems :)
uninformed
4th December 2010, 08:39 AM
I'm in the boat (pardon the pun) that believes that they are pretty useless on motor vehicles....you need the water as John said.
with regards to people saying they had it on a car and it didnt rust.....how do they know that not having it on the same car would change the out come.
while Grimace has posted some info on a few vehicles its still far from a controlled test number to give any accurate results....way to many varibles and not enough test units to return fact.
cheers,
Serg
scarry
4th December 2010, 08:20 PM
Same as Tombie,my 6yr old D2 has no rust after many beach trips,etc.
Now the son's Puma was fitted with the one austral LR sell,as he thought he would do the right thing as the vehicle would be spending a bit of time on the beach.
Didn't stop the rust on the chassis,or corrosion around the alpine windows:mad:,both of which have been repaired under warranty.
The chassis rust was only surface,they repaired it & completely sealed the chassis inside & out with underbody sealer:)
Flatty
6th December 2010, 10:32 AM
Hi All
I have used electronic prevention for about 7 years on my x-trail and it is left in the weather & parked outside continually and it has been on the beach once. I have never repaired any stone chips in the paint. There is some surface rust on the tow hitch 7pin plug bracket and some on the steel suspension components (Just wipes away mostly). The stone chips in the bonnet have not blistered but have a brownish appearance in some places. I have not used any other rust prevention such as lanoline or fish oil.
The electronic rust prevention system has been on since new and only has 1 pad so I am not sure weather it is effective or not, the light keeps flashing which makes me feel better.
I have a new 90 defender which is about a month old now and came with surface rust in the drive flanges and on some suspension component bolts so it has an electronic rust prevention device on it as well. This consists of only 1 pad on the chassis. I was told this one requires servicing once a year? Maybe the pad dries out and no longer works I don't know? The other one on the x-trail does not require this.
When the flooding and rain improve I will be using some fish oil on the Defender as I think electronic rust prevention only slows the rust rather than stopping it.
My brother has a Patrol he put 8 pads on it about 8 years ago and regularly uses lanolin for added protection he has been to Straddie or to Fraser at least once a year and has no visible rust. Although his electronic rust system light has stopped flashing about 6 months ago.
He cleans his car really well after and prepares it before each trip perhaps this is why?
I work for the QLD Government and drive a 4WD on mine sites we are due to get a new Landcruser with electronic rust protection installed. It will be interesting to see if this works as our cars usually rust where dust and moisture sit.
I don’t think they work as well as advertised but since the new Defender has it as well I must feel it is worth the peace of mind only time will tell.
Regards
Flatty
MightyJosh
19th March 2012, 12:14 PM
I all comes down to science simple as that. They work and are great units, but if they work on a moving car, they don't. A bridge is a stationary object, its pillars are permanently in the ground and water, which has moisture. So there is a constant current to pass through, same as a boat in the water. Now a car is mostly on the road, so the contact from the road to the body/chassis is broken by the wheel. There is not a constant current running from the ground to the car, plus your wheels are rubber and that repels electricity.
Most offer a warranty of 5-7 years from a new car not second hand. In this time most cars have a anti rust period, so in sense its really snake oil. It would work if your car was in water and mud over the wheels 100%, but soon as you drive out of it the connection is broken and the rusting starts. Its simple science, bridges and boasts yes cars no.
harro
19th March 2012, 10:27 PM
I all comes down to science simple as that. They work and are great units, but if they work on a moving car, they don't. A bridge is a stationary object, its pillars are permanently in the ground and water, which has moisture. So there is a constant current to pass through, same as a boat in the water. Now a car is mostly on the road, so the contact from the road to the body/chassis is broken by the wheel. There is not a constant current running from the ground to the car, plus your wheels are rubber and that repels electricity.
Most offer a warranty of 5-7 years from a new car not second hand. In this time most cars have a anti rust period, so in sense its really snake oil. It would work if your car was in water and mud over the wheels 100%, but soon as you drive out of it the connection is broken and the rusting starts. Its simple science, bridges and boasts yes cars no.
Dr.Karl also reckons it's a load of BS and I'm with him;)
Car Rust and How to Stop It (Dr Karl Homework: ABC Science) (http://www.abc.net.au/science/k2/homework/s95524.htm)
I have posted this before but each to their own.............
Cheers,
Paul.
Reads90
20th March 2012, 06:50 AM
When I came here I worked in a land river dealership where the company that make these were trying to get us to sell them.
I had not seen these before. ( being a pom ) we don't have them in the uk. So I was interested to know how they worked. He told me they put a negative charge through the car. I looked at him and said that is what the battery does anyway. At this point he walked of and would not talk to me.
But if they really worked then they would be sold in the uk and Europe. Because cars rust a lot more there than here. After all a 2000 110 will be on it second rear cross member by now due to rust, if not third . Rear cross members are a common replacement part in the uk along with other chassi legs.
So as they are not used or heard of in Europe or the uk I would definitely say their rubbish. After all of they worked you would make a fortune in Europe and the Uk
MightyJosh
16th April 2012, 04:31 PM
After working in a 4X4 store for a while I got asking about these units. Knowing all to well that they are a fad, never the less I asked. The unit is $350 with the same again in install cost, so pretty rich. What i got told is that they create their own internal current... ok but still you need to have the current on the group constantly or in water like I said before. And it has to go on painted surfaces not bare metal. So for $800 your getting a blinking light and some cabling throughout. Best this is wash your car down afterwards, and coat with WD40, RP7, 506.
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