The Waeco fridge

[Rangier Rover]

How many of you are running the Waeco fridge.
I have two and are finding they are both very sensitive to voltage loss on a long loom and thermal overload on the smaller one:(

Have any of you had this problem? I'm going to upgrade the loom http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-range-rover/88538-aux-battery-power-fridge-rrc.html but some loss is still inevitable:( They also run a poxy ciggy socket that may not be helping my cause:mad:

Tony

[Ace]

How many of you are running the Waeco fridge.
I have two and are finding they are both very sensitive to voltage loss on a long loom and thermal overload on the smaller one:(

Have any of you had this problem? I'm going to upgrade the loom http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-range-rover/88538-aux-battery-power-fridge-rrc.html but some loss is still inevitable:( They also run a poxy ciggy socket that may not be helping my cause:mad:

Tony

My grandparent use one for their long golfing trips away with their caravan. Other than a warranty issue when they first bought it some years ago now grandad reckons its great. He just runs it through the caravan running from the cars electrics through the tralier plug when they are driving, when they are stopped they use the main fridge in the van. He hasnt had any issues of any kind with voltage as far as i know.

Dont know if that really answers your question though.

[Rangier Rover]

My grandparent use one for their long golfing trips away with their caravan. Other than a warranty issue when they first bought it some years ago now grandad reckons its great. He just runs it through the caravan running from the cars electrics through the tralier plug when they are driving, when they are stopped they use the main fridge in the van. He hasnt had any issues of any kind with voltage as far as i know.

Dont know if that really answers your question though.

Yes it helps a lot. I need to hear good things about the fridge so I know my wiring is dodgy;)

I've had a search on the thermal side of it and apparently they have a thermal cut out switch built that can need replacing after time.

[Chenz]

I had real hassles with mine. It was really sensitive to voltage drop and the plug only had a move a bit and it read error.

They just don't like low current flow. I took mine back to Waeco and they tested it and said there was nothing wrong.

I solved this by running really thick cables (virtually battery leads) straight off the aux battery to a plug on the side of the cubby box in the fender.

I used a marine type ciggie plug which you push down and locks on a rubber seal thus making less likely to move on corrugated roads.

Did some very big trips through the Simpson over very bumpy country and had no further problems.

I put it into my work car on a spare battery for Louth races this year using one of those ciggy plugs with bulldog clips to the terminals and it played up again. I beefed up the leads with 3mm cable and problem solved.

[Ace]

How old are the fridges?

[Chenz]

Three years.

Once I fixed the plug issue it runs like a clock - well a fridge actually.

Keeps my beer cold and my chops fresh

[d@rk51d3]

After a couple of years we've had no problems with ours, although I did run a new Aux power line with fairly heavy cable, fitted a self re-setting circuit breaker, and upgraded the OEM ciggy plug with something more heavy-duty.

[Ace]

Three years.

Once I fixed the plug issue it runs like a clock - well a fridge actually.

Keeps my beer cold and my chops fresh

How thick is the wire you used to run to the socket?

[hoadie72]

I have two - the CF-25 and the 35, run them both off the standard cigarette lighter in two cars and haven't had any issues what so ever. Out of interest, what's the voltage cutout on yours set to? I dropped mine to 10.5V as I plug them into some Waeco batteries when stopping for extended periods.

[Chenz]

Not sure how thick it is but it was the spare lead left after they fitted my Pirahna dual battery system. It is like slightly thinner battery cable.

Maybe overkill but it sure fixed the problem

[one_iota]

There was no way that mine would work from the power supplied by the Cigar lighter. Plenty of error light.

I ran a supply (6mm positive and earth) from the battery to a 12v power socket (firstly in the Disco and now in the Defender) and haven't had a problem since. :)

[Ace]

Not sure how thick it is but it was the spare lead left after they fitted my Pirahna dual battery system. It is like slightly thinner battery cable.

Maybe overkill but it sure fixed the problem

Yeah, it would. The stuff i used was only 4mm, an auto elec told me it would be enough, not knowing much about electrics i just used the 4mm stuff, me thinks i might replace it with some thicker stuff.

[Utemad]

I have a Waeco CF80. I've had a problem with the lead before and Waeco sent me another one.

I choppped the merit plug off the old lead and fitted one of those plugs that looks like a 240v plug but with two pins in a T arrangement. That sorted the voltage drop for a while but the lead is playing up again. I just measured a 0.3v drop over the lead.

I also measured a 0.46v drop between the battery and the socket. That is with 6sqmm cabling.

My plan is to eliminate the lead by making a new cable and connecting it directly into the internal wiring of the fridge.
Then run 10sqmm wiring to the fridge or at least find out why it is incurring a voltage drop that large. Maybe pull out the blade fuse holder and use a auto resetting circuit breaker but I didn't have time today to check if the fuse holder was the problem.

[awabbit6]

They do seem to be very sensitive to voltage drop.
We have a CF-80 that wouldn't run on the power box that I put in the back of our Disco. I ran 6mm +ve and earth up from the anderson plug at the back of the car (which is 8mm from the aux battery) with a merit in-line socket and haven't had a problem since.
I've also upgraded the wiring on our camper trailer to 6mm from the battery. I felt the error light was coming on while there seemed to still be sufficient power in the battery. Has been good so far.

[Narangga]

My CF-60 is 3 years old and I had the current problem off the camper trailer until I finally realised what it was.

I now use the earler version of this WAECO mobile solutions (http://www.waeco.com.au/products3.asp?id=355&catId=57&subCatId=60&subCatId2=71) which has 5m of cable on it so it is the capacity of the wire to hold current which is the issue.

I am going to wire in a second battery to the trailer and use 20amp wire for that as it will run the fridge.

More than happy with the fridge and the only issue with it is that it has just turned into a freezer as the therostat has packed it in :(

[pawl]

I have a CF 60 and have had no trouble, but I do have a 6B&S (13mm2) cable I have ran from the Aux battery for the camper that feeds the Waeco.

[rovercare]

You don;t wanna know the proper *cough* engel *cough* fix?:D

[Chucaro]

I have a CF50 which burned the CB of the temperature controller twice. The service man in Bundy told me to replace the control with a nob like the old model or the Evakool. His workshop was full of faulty Waecos :eek:
Since the adaptation have been done is all Ok/
When she pack again it will be a Trailblazer :)

[Rangier Rover]

Thanks for the response:) At least its not just me having the errors;)

Out of interest one of my fridges is rising 4 Yrs and the big one is 1 week old:mad: The loom I have now is only 4mm cable.

Looking at most responses other than buy an engel :mad::mad::D Maybe get a new lead, chop it off and hard wire the bastard in to twin core 6mm cable:twisted: That should take care of the voltage loss:angel:

I will have a look at the older one tonight and see what it has for the thermal overload protection.

[slug_burner]

CF80 no problems, did the wiring with one of the cigarette lighter type of plugs where you remove part of it and are left with a metal tip with a barb for a more positive connection. Wire is the same gauge as that provided by Waeco.

[rangieman]

You don;t wanna know the proper *cough* engel *cough* fix?:D
Dear i say x2:p

[Rangier Rover]

Dear i say x2:p

:mad: Now that is a bit like fixing the Land Rover with a Toyota:mad::p

[Bushie]

My CF-50 is 7 years old, other than an unrelated warranty issue in 2002, I haven't had any voltage error problems.

The waeco paperwork says that the standard wiring in most vehicles is not up to running a fridge, lets face it the wiring to the ciggy plug in a landy would be lucky to be 1mm2.

I've run around 4.7mm2 cable from the battery to the fridge (maybe 1m run) with a low voltage 'T" style plug, runs like a dream.

Also check that the low voltage cut out switch is set right. H-M-L (I run mine on M and can still start the defender after a few days sitting (well I could with new batteries, they're getting a bit sorry now @ 7 years)



Martyn

[vnx205]

I think it indicates a problem with the wiring rather than the fridge.

I don't share some people's blind faith in Engels as a solution because I have seen an Engel in a hire vehicle refusing to work as it was designed to because of inadequate or faulty wiring.

Waeco v Engel
Toyota v Land Rover
PC v Mac
Windows v Linux

Don't you just love these religious debates? :p

[Lionel]

Most of these problems can be solved by using 6 mm cable with Anderson plugs (Drivesafe can supply them!), particularly for "fridge-in-trailer" connections. The trailer plug connection is not recommended for this situation.

Waeco's do use a bit more current than Engel's, particularly at start up, and any significant current limitation will cause an error message.

Cheers,

Lionel

[stevo68]

Pretty much been said....but will offer my experience all the same. I've had mine for over 3 yrs.....first time used with portable waeco battery...excellent. Then from there I had power issues etc both in my D3 and D2. At home on mains not a problem at all.

Now that I finally have a dual battery set up using Tims Traxide set up and thick cabling...to the rear sockets......no problems in 9mths and 9 trips. So fridge is the same, sockets are the same.....thick cabling is the difference. Waeco performs brilliantly. So from stressful trips to stress free trips for myself and the family,

Regards

Stevo

[rovercare]

:mad: Now that is a bit like fixing the Land Rover with a Toyota:mad::p

Dead right, BUT the reason I have the Tojo of fridges, is I can handle being stuck with a broken down car and cold beer, but being stuck with a broken down car and warm beer:mad:

:D

[rovercare]

I don't share some people's blind faith in Engels as a solution because I have seen an Engel in a hire vehicle refusing to work as it was designed to because of inadequate or faulty wiring.



Blind faith, I think not:p

Just on this last simpson crossing, we were accompanied by my old mans 40 and 32L as Freezers and my 60L as a fridge

I've personally seen literally 5 times as many Waeco failures as Engel's, the total being 5/1:D and seen probably 5 times as many engel's in happy service:cool:

Anyhow just to stop becoming a normal ranter, Tony just measure the voltage when the fridge is operating and wire it properly already:)

[weeds]

Dead right, BUT the reason I have the Tojo of fridges, is I can handle being stuck with a broken down car and cold beer, but being stuck with a broken down car and warm beer:mad:

:D

i was thinking the same.........:o

hang toyota of fridges....hardly think so

- they are expensive
- made from steel and rust
- no low voltage cut out
- heavy
- old technology compressor
- noisey
- poor insulation
- needs a cover
- the lid works it way off and you need to buy a clip to spot it
- no 240v power pack
- no temp gauge
- no electronics
- use more power

i would call it the land rover of fridge.s..........have a look at all the designed faults:p:p

wouldn't give up my engel's......:D

[Rangier Rover]

Dead right, BUT the reason I have the Tojo of fridges, is I can handle being stuck with a broken down car and cold beer, but being stuck with a broken down car and warm beer:mad:

:D


So if I stick with the Waeco I best drive the Toyota so I can get to a pub when the fridge stuffs up:twisted:

We had some drama with the Weaco wile on Morton island. Would only run half the night and karked out:mad: Didn't impress the others camping near by when a V8 started up and ran for 20 mins at 2000 rpm to get the voltage up in the AUX battery.:twisted:

[one_iota]

I can hardly wait for my Waeco to break so that I can buy an Engel.....



but after 7 years I'm still waiting :p ;)

[Rangier Rover]

I can hardly wait for my Waeco to break so that I can buy an Engel.....



but after 7 years I'm still waiting :p ;)

Have a small feeling I should have done the same now I have purchased this new Waeco. :mad:The Engel were a bit dearer and looked prehistoric;)

[Tote]

I havent had any issues with mine running from the aux power socket in the Disco 3 but when I wired up the aux battery I ran a dedicated line using thick cable to the back and I am using a 30A speaker plug as the connector.
Neutrik - Audio - speakON Cable Connectors - NL8FC (http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/210_93741/NL8FC_detail.aspx)
Regards,
Tote

[PhilipA]

hang toyota of fridges....hardly think so

-
they are expensive
As are Toyotas.


- made from steel and rust
granted


- no low voltage cut out
Granted but fixed with $60 Projecta low voltage cutout in circuit


- heavy
Steel tends to be


- old technology compressor
Huh? No start up drag like reciprocators, and this is the cause of many Waeco power related problems


- noisey
Mine is as noisy as any other compressor fridge I have heard. If you want quiet , I think you need absorbtion.

-
poor insulation
Compared to what? Met a bloke in Broome buying a new Engel because his Autofridge had carked it. Autofridge has better insulation.


- needs a cover
If you want the STEEL case to remain pretty for its 20-30 year life

- the lid works it way off and you need to buy a clip to spot it
Huh? Mine is 10 years old and no probs

-
no 240v power pack
Showing your lack of product knowledge here. Engel has automatic selection of 240/24/12 volts, all accomplished internally without having to carry a separate pack.


- no temp gauge
granted

-
no electronics
Huh? Engel is totally electronic. Open the case and you will see it. I was surprised when I opened mine. This controls the "soft start" of the compressor as well as auto voltage selection.


- use more power
Yes, because they do not break down LOL.

I think you should also add

Servicemen will work on them as modules can be replaced easily,vs Waeco where fridge is an economic write off if the compressor dies as the coils have to be cut out of the case. ( repairman quoted +$400 just for parts) Engel compressor and coils come as a unit and slot straight in.

Mine has not been completely trouble free . After 10 years the thermostat died and cost $150 to repair, hence my knowledge of the repair issues after talking to my local service agent.
However I have just returned from an 18,000Km trip to the Kimberley with about 5000 on dirt. The inside is a bit scuffed .

But better some small problems than the frustration of the guy in Broome whose fridge had carked it.
I guess the question is the same as the Toyota question . Would I buy another? YES YES YES.
Regards Philip A

[Rangier Rover]

I have no doubt that the angel fridge is more robust and serviceable at all. Now is very apparent they're not so sensitive to power loss in a loom.
There is a lot around here that swear by them as well. Truckies and tradies included.

I have the Waeco's now so have to make them work.

[weeds]

Showing your lack of product knowledge here.


hey PhililA, i own two engles and was merely quoting all the reasons why people don't buy an engel and why waeco are sooooooooo much better.............:(

i better get back to getting my rig....complete with two engels....ready for the holidays

[waynep]

We've had a Waeco 40l for 5 years - despite all the warnings that it would not last, it has been fine. Recently did a 3 month trip around Central Oz no problems.
However I did find the following was needed to make it run properly.
1. MUST put in decent thick leads ( both + and -) directly from the battery ( I ran 6mm2 cable ).
2. If you are running from a second battery set low voltage cut out on the fridge at it's lowest setting.
3. Don't use cig lighter sockets - Hella or Anderson at the very minimum. I actually cut off the plug and solidly wired the fridge lead to the battery lead ( soldered and crimped )

[Disco44]

Buy an Evacool .I have had one for six years all over Oz including Cape York and it has never missed a beat.I have used it both as a fridge and a full freezer worked very efficiently and will continue to do so down to 10 volts then it automatically turns off.

[PhilipA]

hey PhililA, i own two engles and was merely quoting all the reasons why people don't buy an engel and why waeco are sooooooooo much better.............:(

i better get back to getting my rig....complete with two engels....ready for the holidays

You know we can all miss some product feature. It was only when I read the manual when I had the thermostat problem that I realised that I could just leave the 240V cord connected all the time and just plug it in without turning the fridge off and on and pulling out the 12V cord, as it automatically selects 240V as default and switches off the 12V input.
This saved me a lot of stuffing around.
Regard sPhilip A

[weeds]

You know we can all miss some product feature. It was only when I read the manual when I had the thermostat problem that I realised that I could just leave the 240V cord connected all the time and just plug it in without turning the fridge off and on and pulling out the 12V cord, as it automatically selects 240V as default and switches off the 12V input.
This saved me a lot of stuffing around.
Regard sPhilip A

wow never realised that, i aways thought that as they are fitted with the plastic slide they wanted you to disconnect one before connecting the other

[PhilipA]

Plastic slide?
My Engel just has 2 female plugs. 240V computer type and the other 12V Engel specific.

Regards Philip A

[pawl]

I think most fridge problems stem from the standard light wiring (power loss)and cig plugs that just don't offer a good connection. 8 B&S wire(7.91mm2) would be best although you could probably get away with the 6mm2 (4.59mm2) auto cable, I like the heavier the better because you invariably connect other things off the wire in the back too(that's why I put in 6 B&S 13mm2,it also runs the 3 way in the camper). Installing a hella socket and heavier wiring will usually sort out most problems. I understand the version A Waeco were the ones that gave trouble, these had the Danfoss compressor and Waeco internals(wiring etc). The new version B ones have all Danfoss gear, compressor and internals and I understand are much better, the compressor runs like the split system A/C so are soft starts.

[weeds]

Plastic slide?
My Engel just has 2 female plugs. 240V computer type and the other 12V Engel specific.

Regards Philip A

how old is your fridge?

mine has a plastic slide stopping you from connecting both cables

[cookiesa]

Had a Waeco in the back of my 1989 Jackaroo then later in the Disco for 6 years no problems at all, weekly trips, corrugations, trips to the tropics and weekly use for the shopping. Sold it recently for a great price and bought the ARB 47l (waeco was getting to small for our family)

As others have said most important thing, regardless of brand is decent wiring. Engels don't need the same power on startup as the others... catch being they will also run the battery flatter if you don't have a low voltage cut out destroying your battery much sooner

[Grimace]

:mad: Now that is a bit like fixing the Land Rover with a Toyota:mad::p

Not really. Cause in this case the Engel is actually better.

[PhilipA]

[QUOTE]how old is your fridge?

mine has a plastic slide stopping you from connecting both cables [QUOTE]

10 years .
Model MRFT-540E G4.
It is the first with 134A and a Fan AFAIK.
Regards Philip A

[Hoges]

I have a Bushman 35L expands to 52L with a collar and high profile lid... originally similar probs to Rangier Rover. Simply solved by running it on an in-car charger meant for a 90W laptop ($30) +10V to 15V in / 12.2V -7A out. Easier/cheaper than stuffing around with extra h/d wires etc...:cool: corrugated roads etc no probs. ...well it is a P38 :Rolling:

[maggsie]

I have a Waeco CF50 which had a fault from the factory, this was fixed under warranty and hasn't missed a beat since.

Maggsie
04V8 Disco
85V8 County

[Utemad]

Just finished tracing out my voltage losses.

Waeco CF80

Battery 12.58v
Fridge 11.87v (measured at compressor connection)
So a 0.7v loss.

Break down of
0.3v lost from battery to socket in back of car
0.18v lost through the merit plug connection
0.2v lost in Waeco cable
0.06v lost between cable connection and compressor

I broke my T shaped socket that I was using instead of the merit connection so I've gone back to the merit connector for now. Although a better quality than original non fused plug.

For the people still running the original merit plug on the Waeco cable, I found when I was testing this afternoon that the positive connection in the plug has a large voltage drop across the fuse and its connections. I think it was around 0.27v on that section alone. I have always felt the cable and that plug in particular are cheap crap.

I love all the 'buy Engel' comments. I bought my Waeco as I had a 25% off voucher and the shop only sold Waeco. So I got it cheap. Otherwise I would have an Engel. That is what I borrow off Dad whenever mine is acting up. His never miss a beat. The Engel is either less susceptible to voltage loss or its lead is better as they get plugged into the same socket in my car.
I certainly wouldn't buy another Waeco.

The hi/lmed/low switch people are talking about in the Waeco isn't actually in the 80 or 110 litre models.

Anyone with an 80L Engel that wants to check the voltage losses to compare?
I'll check my Dad's next I can. Won't be for a while though so no good for now.