Where have you put your brake controller

[dullbird]

Hi guys we have just got a redarc brake controller and was wondering where others have placed there brake controllers?

Pics would be good......also in regards to hooking your controller up to the trailer how have you done this through a separate plug? or have you wired it straight into the trailer socket?

[Chops]

In my Disco, its on the left of the steering wheel on the main fuse cover,,, but sorry, no pics today/now,,its raining :(,,, (you know what happens when things get wet,,they either shrink or grow,,If I shrink, I'll look twice as fat,,and if I grow,,I'll Be twice as fat,,:eek:)

Ps,, had it fitted years ago for me, so Im not sure about connections,,

[langy]

Howdy boys, girls and puppydogs -

for the 2nd part of your question, it relates to what size trailer and the necessity (or not) of failsafe devices - for example, on a new largish caravans, the brakes are wired using anderson type plugs; if it decides to go west ( disconnect whilst mobile) , a secondary battery in the van engages the electric brakes. On older and larger vans where electric brakes are on two or three axles, you use 50amp wire and 50 amp anderson plugs.

On your camper trailer, you would be lucky to exceed 15amp - since the trailer socket can handle 20amp wire, then you can avoid the 2nd plug and stay with the single socket.

[dullbird]

Hi Mark

the trailer is already wired....form the brakes with heavy gauged wire up to the Anderson socket..


failsafe devices - for example, on a new largish caravans, the brakes are wired using anderson type plugs; if it decides to go west ( disconnect whilst mobile) , a secondary battery in the van engages the electric brakes.

How does it engage the brakes if it disconnects its self...or do you mean disconnect its self from the trailer socket there for you still have brakes because they are on a seperate line?

we were just deciding how we would hook up the controller....we have brought the 8g wire and small Anderson plug to fit....just wondering if there was any major advantages as to why he had wired his trailer like this.
especially as the wire coming out of the controller is tiny.

[alien]

G'day,
Have play on the Redarc site, trailer brakes on the list just clic.

REDARC supply power conversion products to the global trucking and automotive markets (http://www.redarc.com.au/)

My guess is like trucks, you actually have to release the brake to move (No power, no go).

Don't forget the pics. when it's done for us, want to do the same to mine for hiring vans.

Cheers, Kyle.

[langy]

If that's how the previous owner has it set up, then go with it...

[dullbird]

G'day,
Have play on the Redarc site, trailer brakes on the list just clic.

REDARC supply power conversion products to the global trucking and automotive markets (http://www.redarc.com.au/)

My guess is like trucks, you actually have to release the brake to move (No power, no go).

Don't forget the pics. when it's done for us, want to do the same to mine for hiring vans.

Cheers, Kyle.

Doesn't tell you anything.....other than a spec sheet..

[Pedro_The_Swift]

mines on the right of the binnacle,,
seems to be made for it--

[incisor]

my old disco had the controller on the bottom of the outside facing driver seat support facing upwards..

[Vern]

mines in the pocket on the door back in its box, bloody thing was brand new in the box and didn't work, teshonka voyager.
Problem is i can't remember where i bought it from to return it:(

[dullbird]

it has been suggested to me that the controller has to sit level with the car on a flat other wise it will pull the brakes on, is that right?

Something to do with the pendulum inside not being able to swing if at to much of an angle

[langy]

I'm not sure that the redarc has deceleration sensing like the teshonka's ( in which, yes , they have to be nearly level +/- 15 odd degrees). Having read the redarc specs and blurb, it doesn't mention decel or mounting the control unit level - high probability that it would be noted somewhere if the redarc had similar features to the teshonka.


There's only one way to find out.........

[dullbird]

I'm not sure that the redarc has deceleration sensing like the teshonka's ( in which, yes , they have to be nearly level +/- 15 odd degrees). Having read the redarc specs and blurb, it doesn't mention decel or mounting the control unit level - high probability that it would be noted somewhere if the redarc had similar features to the teshonka.


There's only one way to find out.........
thats what Ian said that he hadn't read it anywhere.....so hopefully we might be ok....just thought I better ask as it was mentioned as something to be aware of.

Think Ian might fit it Monday we are waiting for the sc80 to turn up hoping that's going to be Monday so he can do it all in one go.:)

[justinc]

Hi Lou,

What model redarc controller did you end up with?

I just sold my Tekonsha Prodigy (Which I never ended up fitting) and bought a Redarc miniature remote unit one. All that is visible to the driver is a small dial knob to alter the gain, that has the override function by pressing the dial knob in, and a LED which changes from red to orange to green during braking etc. It is tiny and unobtrusive and just what I was after as the RRC dash isn't the place for heaps of gadgets IMHO:(

JC

[muddymech]

same one with remote head
ian

[justinc]

Ian,

They are a good unit by all reports, I haven't read the destructions yet, only got it on Thursday. Looks nice and simple though. Simple appeals to me:D.

JC

[dmdigital]

Lou on the D1 sikaflex it to the inside of the kick panel under the steering wheel. In the Puma... we'll I've promised Ian some pic's tomorrow. Believe me that unit is easy to hide. Actually there are pic's of my D2 installation on the forum somewhere (and in my Flickr album)

Now as to the connection. I was under the impression your brakes would be via the 20A trailer plug and only the trailer charging would be via the 50A anderson plug.

[dmdigital]

it has been suggested to me that the controller has to sit level with the car on a flat other wise it will pull the brakes on, is that right?

Something to do with the pendulum inside not being able to swing if at to much of an angle
Lou, that only applies to a pendulum unit (like a Tekonsha). The RedArc can sit anywhere you like in the car as it does not have any type of force control.

[dmdigital]

Ian,

They are a good unit by all reports, I haven't read the destructions yet, only got it on Thursday. Looks nice and simple though. Simple appeals to me:D.

JC
Did you notice it in my Puma? Can't recall if I pointed out the controls or not:confused:

[harry]

where have you put your brake controller?

for most of the time, she sits in the passengers front seat.

until she decides that i should drive home alone, or she moves to the back seat [not common, unless we have others aboard]

is there a cure to this problem, or should i drive her tt instead?

[dullbird]

Lou on the D1 sikaflex it to the inside of the kick panel under the steering wheel. In the Puma... we'll I've promised Ian some pic's tomorrow. Believe me that unit is easy to hide. Actually there are pic's of my D2 installation on the forum somewhere (and in my Flickr album)


Now as to the connection. I was under the impression your brakes would be via the 20A trailer plug and only the trailer charging would be via the 50A anderson plug.

No like I said above he has set it up with Anderson plugs..

The trailer charging is via an Anderson plug as is the trailer brakes:)

[muddymech]

you did show us but can not remember, thats why pics will be helpfull


some one else mentioned doing it though trailor plug but i really can not work that one out so just going to go striaght off battery.

ian

[alien]

No like I said above he has set it up with Anderson plugs..

The trailer charging is via an Anderson plug as is the trailer brakes:)

Proberly a silly question but if the trailer batt. power feed is on side of the anderson plug and the brake is on the outher where is the trailer batt. getting it's earth from?
Would there be enough current flow the lighting plug and the hitch?

Just tring to work out your set up or are there 2 anderson plugs?

Cheers.

[muddymech]

good point not sure were trailor battery is earthed. at teh moment there is no connection between car and trailor. once the bits arrive will an sc80 with cable to anderson plug to back of car this plugs into trailor anderson plug to charge trailor battery.

the blue wire off the redarc will run to back of the car and plug into anderson plug on trailor that connects to electric brakes.

this is were all my confusion has come from as the electric brakes have a small wire coming out of them and then are spliced into battery cable which go to a 50amp anderson plug.

the redarc has a small cable out of it which needs extending, im going to go 8g cable as this will fit a 50amp andsrson plug allowing me to connect to the trailor and hopefully not suffer volts drop, if thats too big i really dont know as electric brakes are new to me, so im trying to get as much info as i can from everyone and the internet.

another question is everyone says need a 25amp fuse in line, one web site recommends a self resetting fuse, the best i can get is a 20amp one from jaycar, can this be used or is it too small.

ian

[dullbird]

Proberly a silly question but if the trailer batt. power feed is on side of the anderson plug and the brake is on the outher where is the trailer batt. getting it's earth from?
Would there be enough current flow the lighting plug and the hitch?


Just tring to work out your set up or are there 2 anderson plugs?

Cheers.



Originally Posted by dullbird https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/768.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-vans-campers/88718-where-have-you-put-your-brake-controller-post1080007.html#post1080007)
No like I said above he has set it up with Anderson plugs..


one Anderson plug is on the battery charger....the other is on the brakes yes there are two plugs:p

[Pedro_The_Swift]

not sure why the two plugs,,

certainly one for charging,,

but my electric brakes are actuated off the normal trailer plug,,,

[alien]

For whats it's worth this is what I think I'll end up with.
Round 7 pin plug (metal) with..
The std 5 wires,
Brake wire (from Redarc dash unit Blue wire),
Reverse light.

Anderson plug wired to Redarc solinoid.


not sure why the two plugs,,

certainly one for charging,,

but my electric brakes are actuated off the normal trailer plug,,,

Two andersons are fine but limited interchange ability if needed (some one uses it, it's towed for you,borrow a caravan ect.).

Fuses...
25amp recomended for brake unit per their site (Tech tips), I'd go resetting type at the batt. supply (Auto elec., wreckers[head lamps?],repco,ect.?).
You could try the 20amp one. Don't know what the draw of trailer magnets is at full application when at highest draw.
Aux batt....
Inline fuse at batt. pick up point of tow car.(30amp).
Inline fuse at batt. input in trailer. (30amp).

I'd like my brakes to reset not just stop working.
Reason for second fuse on aux. is to stop back feed from camper/caravan if cable rubs on tow unit.

Ree the wire size, I think what your thinking is fine as the unit is an adjust and leave by driver type. Any voltage drop is constant.

Hope this helps, cheers.

[alien]

http://www.aroundoz.com/images/diy_instructions/brakes/hayes_circuit.gif

:D Different brand same wireing set up (not sure on wire colors).

[dmdigital]

Ian, SC80 will handle trailer and second battery, that's what I have (and what Tim sent you for me... you should have kept it;))

I suggest calling Tim regarding the trailer charging. There's a few things you may need to check on the way the trailer is wired.

I'm a little concerned about the brakes, I'm thinking this is a magnetic/drum unit unit on the wheels but the way it's wired up should be total overkill and only need to go through the trailer socket. Unless it requires more than 20A in which case I can understand the Anderson plug, but that then means the RedArc EBC may not handle the current load.

[Grumndriva]

Lou,

There is a bit of misinformation in this thread, so I have attempted to clarify a couple of issues below. We have used electric brakes for some years on a 2.5 tonne caravan and before that on a camper trailer, both using a Disco 2 as tug.

The most important siting requirement for the brake controller is that you can reach it immediately without having to hunt for it in an emergency, and which is not obstructed in any way by other items. Don't forget things like coffe mugs or other drinks which might block access to the controller on a trip. If things go pear-shaped behind you, you have very little time to reach and apply the manual brake, which you may need to do to avoid an accident, especially if for some reason you are forced to swerve sufficiently to set up a sway in the CT. Oscillations can build up very fast after a sudden upset.

As I understand it you have a Defender, so you need to find a place which
meets that requirement.

In my experience the best place for a brake controller in a D2 is screwed to the underside of the ash tray or coin holder. By putting it there, your hand just naturally falls to it in an emergency where you need to use the manual braking function. With a bit of excess length in the wiring, you can still use the slide out tray. It also means that if you subsequently remove the brake controller, there are no holes showing.

You do not need an Anderson plug for the brakes. They will operate off a standard 7 pin flat plug with absolutely no problems. In all our travels I have never noticed anyone using an Anderson plug for their van brakes, and it is certainly a non-standard arrangement.

Someone mentioned a separate brake battery in the van. This only applies to tandem (or tri-axle) vans and trailers which would become projectiles in the event of a complete breakaway of the towing connection (tow bar or A-frame hitch and safety chains). Hence the name, breakaway brakes. In that unlikely event, a lanyard removes a plug from the breakaway switch on the A frame, which applies full braking to the trailer brakes to bring the van to a stop. It has nothing to do with normal braking. With these systems, it is now compulsory to have a caravan/trailer battery charge monitor in the tow vehicle, and for that you need another pair of wires. Consequently you run out of pins with a 7 pin plug, so the standard plug now for larger (multi-axle) vans is a 12 pin flat plug, A 7 pin plug will still fit a 12 pin receptacle, as the hole sizes and locations are the same. However the 12 pin plug also has 5 larger pins in parallel. You do not need breakaway brakes with your CT.

Both my brother and my son bought Redarc controllers about 12 months ago, and both binned them in favour of a Tekonsha Prodigy, due to their inablity to get true proportional braking from them, which meant that if they were set with enough power at speed, they would apply excessive braking at slow speed. There may be a better model out now, but if you find the braking at slow speed uncomfortably harsh when set properly for other speeds, replace it with a Prodigy ior Prodigy P3. These are what most of the caravan fraternity use, because they are easy to set up and work. The Tekonsha Voyager works well when set up properly, but is difficult to set up properly, which is why I binned ours and replaced it with a Prodigy.

Hope this has been useful Enjoy the camper.
Cheers,
Terry

[Bushwanderer]

FWIW, I agree totally with Grumndriva.

Further, an earlier post said that all Tekonshas need to be horizontal. This is not true (at least for the Prodigy).

[dullbird]

Thank you Grumdriva some very useful information in there:)

[Grumndriva]

You are most welcome. Have fun with the camper.

Cheers,
Terry

[Chops]

Well, Im sorry,,I've tried a dozen times to get my pic uploaded, but it wont,,
Im not sure what brand it is, but it certainly doesn't sit level, and it only runs through the trailer plug, which is a small 7 pin one.
I was supposed to have an extra plug (Andersons) to charge whatever batteries were in the van/trailor, (which I ended up not buying).

Cheers

[muddymech]

i think tahts the way i will go and wire though the trailor socket, is that pin number 5?
will have to take out wire (battery cable) used by prevuious owner but that should be ok.
thanks for all your help. i know this is a simple thing to install but having never done it and getting a trailor trhat is wired different to the norm has certainly thorwn me.
ian

[dmdigital]

Ian it may also pay to contact the Camper Trailer Manufacturer as they may be able to provide you with more information on the brakes and also on wiring diagrams for the trailer.

Were the pic's I sent helpful at all?

[dullbird]

Think the brakes are Alco...or something. we did have info on them but Ian has miss placed the booklet

[dmdigital]

As long as Ian's only misplaced it and Nums or Eddie haven't dribbled all over it:eek:

[muddymech]

Were the pic's I sent helpful at all?[/QUOTE]


yes. thanks for sending them.
ian

[muddymech]

can anyone tell me what pin teh barke control wire goes, is it no 5
thanks ian

[abaddonxi]

can anyone tell me what pin teh barke control wire goes, is it no 5
thanks ian
This help?
http://www.lumen.com.au/html/pdf/lumen_am_trailerpsa_plugsdiagrams.pdf

[dullbird]

he has that already I think...but is trying to understand what is meant by "service brakes".....

and does he just put the trailer brake controller wire in pin 5 with the blue wire that is already in there

[alien]

can anyone tell me what pin teh barke control wire goes, is it no 5
thanks ian

Yes, from your control box.
Should be on it's own.
Pin 2(rev.) is some times used as power feed from the start batt. for int. lights and fridges;)

Cheers.

[muddymech]

thanks im nearly there, got held up with fuse holders, for some reason my blade fuse are a tad too big to go in holders i bought from jaycar, have to go fine either new fuses or alternative holders, they are 30amp covered ones with red wire.
normally i get the ones with ornage wire, i was assuming wore colour had changed but perhaps there is different size fuses.
think i might be making a mountain out it but its pretty new to me and i want to get it right.
thanks ian

[alien]

thanks im nearly there, got held up with fuse holders, for some reason my blade fuse are a tad too big to go in holders i bought from jaycar, have to go fine either new fuses or alternative holders, they are 30amp covered ones with red wire.
normally i get the ones with ornage wire, i was assuming wore colour had changed but perhaps there is different size fuses.
think i might be making a mountain out it but its pretty new to me and i want to get it right.
thanks ian

Good to hear it's coming together for you.
The Jaycar fuse holder might be for a younger person, You know for their duff duff stereo.
Standard fuses also fit into elec. joiners but no weather protection.

Cheers.

[muddymech]

furtehr update, turns out that the second anderson plug has power on it, that has really thrown me, i now think thats for a solar panel and not the electric brakes as the original owner told me, so im guessing trailor is wired normally, will let you all know once i get the car wired up and plug it all together.
ian

[muddymech]

This help?
http://www.lumen.com.au/html/pdf/lumen_am_trailerpsa_plugsdiagrams.pdf



thanks. but why an earth is there different ways of wiring plugs depending on the state your in.

ian

[alien]

thanks. but why an earth is there different ways of wiring plugs depending on the state your in.

ian

I've never seen the 6 pin plug;).
Both the 7 pin plugs look like they wire the same way.
I've have wired 7 pin plugs as 5's and put a jump wires in 1&2, 4&5 for indicators.
Handy for using different trailers, just don't use R/H with a caravan on:eek:

Cheers.

[adonuff]

Hi I got the Tekonsha Prodigy controller as well and use the trailer plug, works fine!. Agree with Kyle use a circit breaker and forget the fuses. I think I still have a cd with instructions for the controller if that helps? Happy to copy the cd if you want to learn more and post it.

One of the the other very valid comments "put it where you can get to it easy," had to use mine not too long ago when a B double over took me from behind while I was towing 2.5 t of van, van went a little sideways then got a sway up a quick application of the manual brake got us all streight again.

It would seem to me the trucks that come from behind cause more dramas than the one coming toward you??

Andrew

[dullbird]

Thanks mate all sorted and fitted now...

and the controller dials etc are right next to the indicator stalk on the left hand side of the steering wheel on the centre console...so very easy to get to.

Thanks everyone for there advice!!! thats why I love this place:)

[Slater]

So can anyone tell me where is the best location, given the need for easy acccess, to mount a Prodigy P3 brake controller in a 300 Tdi Defender ?

[Bushwanderer]

Hi Slater,
Perhaps if you post a pic of your Defender dash, you might get more responses.

Best Wishes,
Peter

[Slater]

Thanks Bushwanderer, I would have thought all 300 Tdi Defender dashboards, minus any additions, would all be the same? Have had the unit fitted today, under the air outlet, between and above the gear stick & hand brake. :)

[Bushwanderer]

Perhaps, but not all of us have 300tDi dashes.

Glad you got it sorted.

[haydent]

some detailed info i found

brake_controllers (http://www.campertrailers.org/brake_controllers.htm)

Brake Controller Comparison, Recommendation, Evaluation and History Charts (http://www.brake-controller.com/brake_controller/brake_controller_comparison_chart.html)

[Banjo_pluker]

Lou,


Someone mentioned a separate brake battery in the van. This only applies to tandem (or tri-axle) vans and trailers which would become projectiles in the event of a complete breakaway of the towing connection (tow bar or A-frame hitch and safety chains). Hence the name, breakaway brakes. In that unlikely event, a lanyard removes a plug from the breakaway switch on the A frame, which applies full braking to the trailer brakes to bring the van to a stop. It has nothing to do with normal braking. With these systems, it is now compulsory to have a caravan/trailer battery charge monitor in the tow vehicle, and for that you need another pair of wires. Consequently you run out of pins with a 7 pin plug, so the standard plug now for larger (multi-axle) vans is a 12 pin flat plug, A 7 pin plug will still fit a 12 pin receptacle, as the hole sizes and locations are the same. However the 12 pin plug also has 5 larger pins in parallel. You do not need breakaway brakes with your CT.

Both my brother and my son bought Redarc controllers about 12 months ago, and both binned them in favour of a Tekonsha Prodigy, due to their inablity to get true proportional braking from them, which meant that if they were set with enough power at speed, they would apply excessive braking at slow speed. There may be a better model out now, but if you find the braking at slow speed uncomfortably harsh when set properly for other speeds, replace it with a Prodigy ior Prodigy P3. These are what most of the caravan fraternity use, because they are easy to set up and work. The Tekonsha Voyager works well when set up properly, but is difficult to set up properly, which is why I binned ours and replaced it with a Prodigy.

Hope this has been useful Enjoy the camper.
Cheers,
Terry

I full agree with what you said but I got confused with the breakaway part:

In NSW you need a breakaway for any trailer over 2ton. Could you please expalin the two wire system needed in the veihcle, I have never heard of this, I am interested!!

[harlie]

I full agree with what you said but I got confused with the breakaway part:

In NSW you need a breakaway for any trailer over 2ton. Could you please expalin the two wire system needed in the veihcle, I have never heard of this, I am interested!!
It’s a requirement to provide the Breakaway Battery with a charge circuit.
* Some manufacturers use the 12 pin flat plug as mentioned.
* Some use the standard 7 pin plug with a + feed on pin #2 (designated Aux or Reverse Light) returning through the light's earth on #3. This is the example that will cause the rear fog lights on D3 or later to ignite)
* Some will use a separate two pin line like an Andersen plug
Either way there should be a charge source for the trailer mounted battery – the standard is that the battery must be able to run the brakes continuously for 15 minutes after leaving the tow vehicle.

[Banjo_pluker]

It’s a requirement to provide the Breakaway Battery with a charge circuit.
* Some manufacturers use the 12 pin flat plug as mentioned.
* Some use the standard 7 pin plug with a + feed on pin #2 (designated Aux or Reverse Light) returning through the light's earth on #3. This is the example that will cause the rear fog lights on D3 or later to ignite)
* Some will use a separate two pin line like an Andersen plug
Either way there should be a charge source for the trailer mounted battery – the standard is that the battery must be able to run the brakes continuously for 15 minutes after leaving the tow vehicle.

That make sense now thanks,

except I have been towing my van illegally without it:wasntme:

Guess what I am doing when I get free time next?

[haydent]

Heres two photos of where i attached mine.


The front cover/plate of the ash tray clips off. and the tray itself is a very solid plastic to be i assume melt/fire proof.

this gives more space at the rear, rather than trying to attach to underside of tray.

Tray still functions, and if unit/wiring removed, cover can be clipped back on hiding screw holes.



http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=29020&stc=1&d=1285051582http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=29021&stc=1&d=1285051582