Notchy Gearchange

[101RRS]

I asked this question 2 years ago but didn't get any substantial responses.

In the cooler months my Freelander XEDI gearchange is great - no problems - no issues.

However as the outside temperature rises as we get closer to summer the gear change into first and reverse starts to get notchy and by the middle of summer it is basically impossible to go into first or reverse without grating the gears - indeed sometimes I have to turn the engine of - put into gear and then start the engine.

The problem seems to happen above about 23 degrees and is not linked to engine temperature.

As we go back into autumn and winter the problem goes away. As we are now in October the gearbox is just starting to get notchy again. :mad:

Hydraulic fluid is OK and my only thought was that the spigot bush/bearing could be binding on the gearbox input shaft with increasing temp.

Any ideas? If not I will have to crack the gearbox off the engine to investigate which will also mean replacing the clutch, etc etc $$$$$$$ while it is apart.

Thanks

Garry

[woko]

Garrycol
I have had a gearbox out of one and I think they dont have a spigot bearing or bush Im sure the input shaft finishes at the spline for clutch plate. R380 gearboxes in Defenders or Discoverys get notchy if the incorrect oil is used which is MTF94 and should be used in freelanders aswell but usually is only a issue when cold not hot. I have put a Valvoline Hydratrans in troublesome shifting R380 boxes it is a tractor transmission/hydralic oil it is a gear oil and works well in these boxes give it a try

[101RRS]

Thanks for that - I did have trouble with the R380 in my disco on cold Canberra mornings and I put Castrol Syntrans in which worked a treat. I also use it in my Freelander and it also works well - no issues when the outside temperature is cold just warm to hot and moving into reverse and first only.

While I don't think it is the oil - it may be, so I will give the Valvoline a go and see what happens.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

Tried different oils etc and problem still exists. Now that we are in Autumn is less of an issue now and will go away in winter and come back when it starts getting hot again.

The problem is like when you try to change gear with the clutch partially engaged, ie just slipping. Someone did suggest to me that the bracket on the side of the bell housing where the clutch slave cylinder is, breaks or bends effectively reducing the effectiveness of the clutch.

Does anyone know of this and looking at the bracket if it was removed how do I tell it is damaged - fix? replace with a new one or repair and reinforce the old one?

Thanks

Garry

[bee utey]

Tried different oils etc and problem still exists. Now that we are in Autumn is less of an issue now and will go away in winter and come back when it starts getting hot again.

The problem is like when you try to change gear with the clutch partially engaged, ie just slipping. Someone did suggest to me that the bracket on the side of the bell housing where the clutch slave cylinder is, breaks or bends effectively reducing the effectiveness of the clutch.

Does anyone know of this and looking at the bracket if it was removed how do I tell it is damaged - fix? replace with a new one or repair and reinforce the old one?

Thanks

Garry
Clutch drag. I remember it well from my rally days, a hot clutch was a curse to engage gears. Could be the plate is not sliding properly on the input shaft, or you haven't enough travel to fully disengage when hot. Is there a rubber buffer in the cable? Could be softer when hot and reducing travel.

[101RRS]

Clutch drag. I remember it well from my rally days, a hot clutch was a curse to engage gears. Could be the plate is not sliding properly on the input shaft, or you haven't enough travel to fully disengage when hot. Is there a rubber buffer in the cable? Could be softer when hot and reducing travel.

Initially thought it could be something like clutch drag - considering changing the clutch when I do the belts soon. FL1 has a plastic, fully sealed master cylinder, clutch hydraulic pipe, slave cylinder system so no cable or rubber buffer.

Apparently the mounting plate on the side of the gearbox warping is common and causes similar symptoms but few people seem to know about it.

Cheers

Garry

[kahuna]

Hi Garrycol.

I sorted this problem out. The reason was slave clutch cylinder body. It's made from plastic, and its flange - by which it is kept in place, becomes soft - cylinder moves back from gearbox - difficult gear changes.

My flange snapped away at all one day. I machined metal ring around the slave cylinder - making new flange effectively. Additionally I tied it to bracket by thick alu wire.