soldering fuel tanks.

[rangy01]

G'Day all.
I have found a couple of threads on re soldering a series fuel tank, but I still have a couple of queries that somebody may be able to help me with.
I understand that a fair amount of heat is required, so what sort of iron or torch is best? I have tried a large soldering iron, however it gets cold quickly before the metal has got hot.
Secondly, what is the best flux to use when tinning? I have tried Bakers, but I cannot get the solder to stick (again it may be a heat issue).
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
PS I am trying to reattach the cradle, it came of easily enough, it was barely attached. (tank is clean and has not contained fuel for years).
Regards
Andy.

[isuzutoo-eh]

This may be an oddball suggestion to many people, but if you live near a hobby shop that deals heavily in model trains, you might find a useful flux there, where I work we have a few, some are for steel, stainless steel, brass, pewter or aluminium. They are usually of the Carr's brand from the UK. They are all liquid rather than paste fluxes so can be washed off easily without fear of further corrosion.
A torch for something that size is best, probably one from a BBQ gas bottle, but the larger of the refillable torches from bunnings or similar may be just big enough.
The aim is to get the heat in fast which keeps it local, once the solder is shiny its flowing and thats enough heat, let it cool.
Hope that may be of some assistance,
Mark

[DeeJay]

Just a safety thing, I would still fill it with water before applying heat.

[rovercare]

Just a safety thing, I would still fill it with water before applying heat.


Soft soldering seems very safe, no naked flames/sparks, you need a big iron but:D

[steveG]

The old plumbers type soldering iron - big block of copper about 1" square and 3" long with a point on it, mounted on handle might be useful.

You can heat it up in a fire or with gas torch - then apply to the job.

Haven't done a fuel tank, but have used them for sheetmetal in the past.

Steve

[Stormy]

Steve is right on the money, use a BIG iron for this Job. Most importanty keep the torch well away from the tank, it doesn't matter how liong since fuel was in it the heat will liberate enough fumes to blow your head off. A friend had a lucky escape when he was cutting up an old truck that had not had fuel in it fo 20 years. The gas axe liberated enough fumes,when the fuel line was cut to start a chain reaction that ended up with a big boom and some sheet metal where the tank once was. He was lucky that the tank was on the opposite side of the chassis and that shielded him. You can fill it with water, but it will soak the heat away from the work and make the job a lot harder than it needs to be. The secret is plenty of heat so it melts the solder quickly. Bakers is the flux for the job. Heat the tankand brush the tank with the solder to get an idea when it is hot enough. Don't worry about heating the solder first, once the metal is hot enough it will all happen. Good luck regards John

[bee utey]

Last time I had to solder a LR (109 V8) petrol tank I took it to my local radiator man, who did it quick and cheap, because he solders every day.

[isuzurover]

I have soldered a few tanks.

Wire brush VERY well.

Standard flux, then "pre-tin" the area to be soldered (both the tank and the thing to be soldered to the tank).

Put them together then heat/solder.

I had a HUGE industrial soldering iron to use for this - as mentioned you need a lot of heat.

EDIT - forgot to add, copper is great to use for small patches on tanks, as it solders very nicely.

[rangy01]

Thanks for all the tips and advice, looks like I will have to get myself a 'BIGGER' soldering iron.

Andy.

[rovercare]

Thanks for all the tips and advice, looks like I will have to get myself a 'BIGGER' soldering iron.

Andy.

Yep!, I'll take a pic of the one at home this weekend.....if I get a chance and remember:eek:

Although, must admit, I've had lots of cars with soldered tanks, but I get my old boy to solder them, ex instrument makers, like that stuff:D

[lro11]

I am doing mine now so if you are tell us your location I may be able to help. if not don't waste your time with an electric soldering iron or a big lump of copper. If you want to go down that track you can have my copper iron. I use a small primus and 70/30 solder for a bit more strength.

[Sketer]

The way to make a tank much safer to solder is to attach a pipe from the exhaust of a car into the tank. Run the car engine. This fills the tank with an inert gas (no oxygen).

If you fill a tank with water it takes your heat away.

Cheers
Peter