TD5 Exhaust manifold mods

[Rudolf]

The constant whistle during boost made me look further.
Looking at manifold form turbo side.
The most righ top stud was broken off inside the head.
While trying to remove the "Easy Out" broke and is also now stuck.
Then decided to remove manifold rather to make access easy.
This brought another carcked now broken stud out. Most left top.

Can one grind the web stiffeners away on a used manifold and do I enlarge the most outer holes (Left & right) to prevent expansion braking the studs?
The manifold does not seem warped as the leak was to be minimal.

Any advice please.

Appologies to bother you lot on a Sunday evening.

[catch-22]

You will have to have the head shaved to ensure it is true.

Get larger studs - M8 to M10. Then as we say "she'll be right, mate" :D

to add -

New gasket
Drill holes in manifold to suit M10 studs.
New nuts with washer and spring washer

[bblaze]

You will have to have the head shaved to ensure it is true.

Get larger studs - M8 to M10. Then as we say "she'll be right, mate" :D

to add -

New gasket
Drill holes in manifold to suit M10 studs.
New nuts with washer and spring washer

Dont know about shaving the head, first up before a desision is made run a straight edge along it and then check it against the specs.
cheers
blaze

[slug_burner]

The constant whistle during boost made me look further.
Looking at manifold form turbo side.
The most righ top stud was broken off inside the head.
While trying to remove the "Easy Out" broke and is also now stuck.
Then decided to remove manifold rather to make access easy.
This brought another carcked now broken stud out. Most left top.

Can one grind the web stiffeners away on a used manifold and do I enlarge the most outer holes (Left & right) to prevent expansion braking the studs?
The manifold does not seem warped as the leak was to be minimal.

Any advice please.

Appologies to bother you lot on a Sunday evening.

Here (http://web.mac.com/rovertech/TRT/Vehicle_Modifications/Entries/2008/5/11_Solving_the_TD5_Manifold_warp_issue.html) is how someone else has done it.

[Rudolf]

Here (http://web.mac.com/rovertech/TRT/Vehicle_Modifications/Entries/2008/5/11_Solving_the_TD5_Manifold_warp_issue.html) is how someone else has done it.
Thanks
Going to give it to some one else to do.
Just assembled it again and used "Firegum" exhaust sealant to get it going again.
The leak on mine is not as bad as on that web site.

[alien]

Same two studs went on mine after putting the head back on:eek:
Front one cleaned up with a blind tap.
Back one ended up being helicoiled, larger thread in head with no mods to manifold this way.

Cheers.

[LandyAndy]

Hi Rudolf.
Its the manifold NOT the head that may need machining.
Once you cut the webs out of the manifold you may find its flat enough.
Ive done mine,once I removed the webbing it was mutch flatter.I drilled the outside 4 holes up a size or 2,also fitted a second nut to the studs (as a locknut)as I found 2 nuts sitting on the manifold.
No problems since the mods.
Goodluck
Andrew

[Rudolf]

Everything is back on but then...
I noticed that I broke the Oil pressure switch earth wire and cannot see where it goes.
Rerouting it from the front left earth.
Will have the stuck stud repaired shortly and also replace all the studs with new ones.

[catch-22]

Dont know about shaving the head, first up before a desision is made run a straight edge along it and then check it against the specs.
cheers
blaze

Cheers mate...yeah meant shave the manifold. Thanks for the correction.....:D

[Rudolf]

Hi Rudolf.
Its the manifold NOT the head that may need machining.
Once you cut the webs out of the manifold you may find its flat enough.
Ive done mine,once I removed the webbing it was mutch flatter.I drilled the outside 4 holes up a size or 2,also fitted a second nut to the studs (as a locknut)as I found 2 nuts sitting on the manifold.
No problems since the mods.
Goodluck
Andrew
Had to abbort the mission.
Could not get the Stud with broken easy out removed.
Started to disfigure the hole so stopped reassembled everything.
Will have it done by a pro shop.
I am just scared thy will have to remove the head.
At idling there are no noises so the seal is still reasonable.
Will see tommorrow if it holds up.

Cheers
Rudolf

[johnclv]

My POS would do studs regularly - manifold shaved or not. Once a year.

I also boke off an easy out when trying to remove one once - what a pain.

Then I found a mob that comes to your place and removes & replaces studs. Thats all this guy did for a job - had all the right tools - reverse drills and drill bits etc

Dead easy - cost me $100 to have some guy come out and do the work - not worth trying to do myself

[alien]

Everything is back on but then...
I noticed that I broke the Oil pressure switch earth wire and cannot see where it goes.
Rerouting it from the front left earth.
Will have the stuck stud repaired shortly and also replace all the studs with new ones.

I think that loom has been talked about in anouther thread.
White wire to switch,
Black wire not used(just sits in conduit).

Cheers.

[Rudolf]

I think that loom has been talked about in anouther thread.
White wire to switch,
Black wire not used(just sits in conduit).

Cheers.So I did the rewiring for nothing.
Had to remove the filter box twice.
Once for the wire and then to get to the dropped plastic nuts.:mad:
Thanks for all the help.
The manifold did not leak this morning but will see how long ot lasts.

[scott oz]

Interesting comment while I was getting some “get home” work done at Ritters in Vic.

Ritters advise they don’t like using larger studs as the studs run very close to water galleries. Ritters solution is to elongate the manifold stud holes. Then smooth the flange on the standard nut and then use a second nut to lock-in the first. Ritters believe his gives the best of both worlds. Allows manifold movement without the need to drill & tap for larger studs?

What do you blokes believe of this solution?

[Redback]

This is what I did, in January 2008, not a problem since.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/50112-broken-manifold-studs-again.html

Baz.

[QLDMIKE]

Both my dad and I have put TDI (M10) studs in, no issues so far.

Did the nuts up to the TDI torque setting, which is over double that of the original studs.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

You will have to have the head shaved to ensure it is true.

Get larger studs - M8 to M10. Then as we say "she'll be right, mate" :D

to add -

New gasket
Drill holes in manifold to suit M10 studs.
New nuts with washer and spring washer

You don't shave the head. It's not the head that loses it's square.
The manifold will need to be faced after removing the webbing as it stress relieves the contact faces. Don't grit grind the webs, use a die grinder.
The other option is to cut a groove straight down the middle of the webbing as a stress relief if you don't have access to a die grinder.

Cheers

Andrew