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bruiser69
26th October 2009, 03:50 PM
Hi Guys,

I've taken my my Camper Factory offroad camper offroad a few times since I bought it but last week was the first time on sand. We decided to try Flinders Beach on Straddie before tackling the badly washed out Main Beach sites. As it hasn't rained for months, the sand on Flinders was extremely dry.
I had no issues going onto beach & up to the #9 camp ground, & the Disco TD5 auto (no CDL) with Cooper ATR (less than 50% tread) never bogged during many trips around island & on Main. When we left on Sunday, tide was over 1/2 & rising with large swells,so decided to travel the last 500m to exit on sand between dunes & water. Disco handled this OK in low range until I had to make turn onto exit then it began spinning wheels soon after & bogged.
Tires on both Disco & camper were on 20psi. I tried backing up to consolodate sand, but it was dry down to about 400mm so still bogged.
I then lowered tires to 15psi all round, but still no traction.
A couple of big Kiwi guys saw my predicament & turned off beach but became bogged & had to reverse back onto firm sand. With their combined muscle I managed to inch my way forward until on level track where I regained traction.
It appears that in low range TD5 auto has more than enough torque.

My question is loss of traction on loose sand towing due to my tires (amount of wear/type), or the traction control playing silly buggers?
What brand of tires do members suggest when towing on sand & will installing a CDL help in this situation?

Cheers..B

Dazza67
26th October 2009, 05:27 PM
I have towed our camper on Stockton beach, 01 TD5 Auto (No CDL) with tyres at 12 psi and a fair bit of right foot, I only have Duelers 235/70's on it more a highway tyre than anything nut will upgrade to something more AT when these wear out. I had the camper at 16 psi and its a match to the Disco wheelbase.
And yes apparently installing a CDL will be a huge benefit (next tax cheque)
Dazza

Pedro_The_Swift
26th October 2009, 05:53 PM
oooh,, can of worms here!!:p:p

all I know is as soon as you spin the tyres you are stuffed,,

but lots of people run muds on sand with no problems,,
untill you spin them,, then tyres with more tread dig bigger holes,,
but tyres with more tread get more traction so should spin less,, yes? maybe?

I really dont think it matters what type of tyre,,
tyre pressure, experience and a few brain cells are much more important.




and I always thought proper sand tyres were bald,,

Milton477
26th October 2009, 06:18 PM
With my ATRs at 18psi I measured the footprint & then let my camper tyres down until their footprint was the same. The pressure for the camper tyres was 12psi for the same footprint as the disco at 18psi. Had no problems at these settings with no CDL on a recent trip to Fraser. Even managed to climb out of the ruts getting off the ferry.

Ferret
26th October 2009, 07:53 PM
I have not towed a camper on sand but I have found the difference between 'cdl out' and 'cdl in' on soft sand is huge + sometimes helps to disable traction control when cdl is 'in' if you are finding traction control to be continually running.

Also, after some experience in very soft sand no longer hesitate to drop tires to 10psi where needed, the difference between 15psi and 10 psi is huge. I have never had trouble at those low pressures though I suppose it depends on the construction of your tyre a bit.

ozscott
26th October 2009, 09:45 PM
Back in 02/03 I was camping next to a guy with a TD5 at Flinders. He was complaining that even with the tyres down his stock TD5 manual was having dramas. I didnt have dramas int he same conditions with my stocker 02...only difference was mine was a V8 manual. I have seen similar over the years. The td5 just needs that little bit to get on boost and I reckon that the V8 works just that bit better in deep sand with smooth high low end torque (dont go throwing figures at me TD5 owners:) - in the real world large capacity 8 pots works for sand). Anyway the stock tyres at 29 inch were always a bit light on and I have found that 30.5-31 and with increased profile and very similar cross section as standard tyres works very well and makes light work of the deepest driest sand.

BTW I used to tow HD offroad campers over the years inot and out of Flinders and once towed (03/04) a 2.2 tonn dual axle road van in there...that raised a few brows but it was fun.

Cheers

ozscott
26th October 2009, 09:51 PM
Mine doesnt have CDL either BTW...and as long as you have the right tyres your fine, but on stock tyres there were times where when starting off in deep sand from stationary CDL couldnt have hurt..

Hastykiwi
26th October 2009, 09:58 PM
What Ferret said. Spot on.

The type of tyre will not make that much difference, the size may help, the pressure (say from 15 down to 10) will make a huge difference, the CDL definitely when sand is very soft, a v8 will not make enough difference to make it worth while. In those particular circumstances tyre pressure will get you moving before more horses will. The V8 would just dig a hole a bit quicker.

cheers
Nick

buzz66
26th October 2009, 09:59 PM
Never ever tackle ANY terrain where you need low range without the Centre Diff Lock engaged. Always have the Diff lock engaged on any sort of loose terrain.

1. Prolonged hard core low range work with wheel spin WILL break your Centre Diff.

2. Traction is much improved with the Centre Diff Lock engaged in all situations.

If you have traction control make sure it's off for SAND.
Traction control is designed for uneven terrain.

bruiser69
26th October 2009, 10:18 PM
oooh,, can of worms here!!:p:p

all I know is as soon as you spin the tyres you are stuffed,,

but lots of people run muds on sand with no problems,,
untill you spin them,, then tyres with more tread dig bigger holes,,
but tyres with more tread get more traction so should spin less,, yes? maybe?

I really dont think it matters what type of tyre,,
tyre pressure, experience and a few brain cells are much more important.




and I always thought proper sand tyres were bald,,

You sure? no tread better on sand? then my nearly expired Cooper ATRs should have performed better.

Cheers...b

ozscott
26th October 2009, 10:27 PM
The size of tyre is very important - end of story (and im talking the better overall rolling diameter the better - width is not as important and can be a hindrance if low profile - the longitudinal footprint and approach angle of the tyre is the key (ie when comparing low pressure on say a 29 inch tyre to low pressure on a 31 inch tyre).

Cheers

PS. There is a big difference between sudden torque and gradual torque on sand...so no the V8 will not just dig a hole quicker. I am in no way bagging (no pun intended) the TD5 its just that the V8 has a slight advantage in sand...but by god it chews the juice in comparo' in the deep stuff. Just get the CDL fitted mate and im sure you will be fine...I opted for bigger higher profile tyres and mate the difference is insane...i went all over Fraser last year with a mate with identical tyres and both S2 V8 manuals same and in fact mines a bit heavier with LPG tanks and steel bull bar etc and his locked didnt have any advantage through really dry (no rain for months) indian head etc when heaps of people were getting stuck even with tyres down and we both had 25 pounds on each tyre - checked with same gauge.

bruiser69
26th October 2009, 10:42 PM
Back in 02/03 I was camping next to a guy with a TD5 at Flinders. He was complaining that even with the tyres down his stock TD5 manual was having dramas. I didnt have dramas int he same conditions with my stocker 02...only difference was mine was a V8 manual. I have seen similar over the years. The td5 just needs that little bit to get on boost and I reckon that the V8 works just that bit better in deep sand with smooth high low end torque (dont go throwing figures at me TD5 owners:) - in the real world large capacity 8 pots works for sand). Anyway the stock tyres at 29 inch were always a bit light on and I have found that 30.5-31 and with increased profile and very similar cross section as standard tyres works very well and makes light work of the deepest driest sand.

BTW I used to tow HD offroad campers over the years inot and out of Flinders and once towed (03/04) a 2.2 tonn dual axle road van in there...that raised a few brows but it was fun.
Cheers


I know that there is a difference between the V8 & 2.5L TD5 when it comes down to the hard core offroad towing capacity, but as I use my TD5 also as my commuting vehicle (70K /day) I could never afford to feed the V8.
As my wife observed when bogged, all wheels were spinning(most of the time, but not together) so to me that is not insufficient torque but maybe fault with LR traction control that gets totally confused in ultra soft sand and alternates brakes on all wheels until you are totally stuck (TC light was going beserk).

slug_burner
26th October 2009, 10:53 PM
TD5 and an auto, I don't know that you would have struggled for torque and specially not in low range. Tyre pressure is the key, when you have let them down what you think is enough then go a bit further. I bogged the defender with 750 ATs in sand, had someone who could have pulled me out but he encouraged me to lower my tyre pressure lower than 10 psi. I was concernd that I would spin the tyre on the rim but no just kept lowering and eventually got out. If the tyre spins it will dig, the chunkier the tread the faster it will dig. You do not want to break the surface no matter how dry you still want to stay ontop of the sand, a chunky tread will break the surface without spinning the tyres.

When towing and you get bogged, disconnect the anchor (trailer) get on firmer ground and then drag the trailer to the vehicle.

beefy
27th October 2009, 12:09 AM
i tow my camper on the sand with a td5 man. tyre pressures is the key and some the guys that do the trips with me have already said that the difference between 10 - 15 psi is huge on the sand. i have towed my camper up some of the biggest dunes in wa and 10psi, cdl and traction control off and you will fly up .

keith

Redback
27th October 2009, 07:41 AM
One word everyone has missed "MOMENTUM" it's the most important thing on sand, especially if your towing OR the vehicle is heavy, the lighter the vehicle the better you'll go on sand and the lower the tyre pressure the better you go as well also doing sharp turns is a real no no in sand, that will slow you down a lot.

Having the CDL as well would have helped the most in your situation, it sounds as though the camper isn't very heavy, also if there hasn't been a lot of rain and the weather has been hot, sand can become very soft and no matter what you do, you'll get bogged, Robe in SA and Stockton in NSW are notorious for having very very soft sand in hot conditions.

Get a CDL or if you have the internals already, get a 10mm spanner for next time;)

Baz.

buzz66
27th October 2009, 09:08 AM
, cdl and traction control off and you will fly up .

keith

I CAN HEAR YOUR CENTER DIFF SCREAMING IN PAIN FROM HERE!

WHY ARE SO MANY PEOPLE CONCERNED ABOUT HAVING THE CENTER DIFF LOCK ENGAGED. WITH THE CENTER DIFF LOCK OFF & UNDER HARD LOADS IF YOU HAVE ANY WHEEL SPIN BETWEEN THE FRONT AND REAR DIFF'S YOU WILL PREMATURELY WEAR THE PHOSPHER BRONZE BUSHES IN THE DIFF CENTER. NEXT THING YOU WILL NOTICE IS THE DRIVE TRAIN CLUNKY. THEN THE LAST STAGE IS BANG:twisted:
IT WON'T HAPPEN OVERNIGHT BUT IT WILL HAPPEN.

ozscott
27th October 2009, 09:22 AM
Baz of course is spot on...but what happens when you have to stop for some turkey who turns in front of you or jumps his turn at the exit uphill in soft stuff...thats why I am advocating bigger tyres if at all possible (taller I say!)...but yep momentum (when you can get it) and low pressures will normally save the day even with stock tyres. When already in several holes on sand the TC will not help too much and might even hinder getting out....but its better I reckon than no tc and open diff when moving off from stationary...as I said above though if you can have CDL engaged (mine doesnt have it - many dont) then moving off from stationary in deep sand is easier than without. Also remember that the highest gear possible without stalling is the go.

BTW with the V8 I think the only advantage is at the point where it is about to sink at just above walking pace (say 10-20kph) and you just squeeze the throttle at 1200rpm and it just uses that smooth torque delivery to keep going (ie when you have to slow down and then just tickle her along before she wants to really drop and get ugly)...I guess what I am saying is that if you have a TD5 you might consider that bigger tyres are a must (as they are in a V8 as well I reckon but perhaps not QUITE so critical...but there isnt much in it) and if you want CDL (but in my opinion the later is more for the security of knowing that you have another drive shaft to turn to if one end (diff for eg) blows out...but its a lot of dosh for that security if you have no nipple

Cheers

Redback
27th October 2009, 10:23 AM
Baz of course is spot on...but what happens when you have to stop for some turkey who turns in front of you or jumps his turn at the exit uphill in soft stuff...thats why I am advocating bigger tyres if at all possible (taller I say!)...but yep momentum (when you can get it) and low pressures will normally save the day even with stock tyres. When already in several holes on sand the TC will not help too much and might even hinder getting out....but its better I reckon than no tc and open diff when moving off from stationary...as I said above though if you can have CDL engaged (mine doesnt have it - many dont) then moving off from stationary in deep sand is easier than without. Also remember that the highest gear possible without stalling is the go.

BTW with the V8 I think the only advantage is at the point where it is about to sink at just above walking pace (say 10-20kph) and you just squeeze the throttle at 1200rpm and it just uses that smooth torque delivery to keep going (ie when you have to slow down and then just tickle her along before she wants to really drop and get ugly)...I guess what I am saying is that if you have a TD5 you might consider that bigger tyres are a must (as they are in a V8 as well I reckon but perhaps not QUITE so critical...but there isnt much in it) and if you want CDL (but in my opinion the later is more for the security of knowing that you have another drive shaft to turn to if one end (diff for eg) blows out...but its a lot of dosh for that security if you have no nipple

Cheers

Unfortunately those situations are going to happen, there's always that one dickhead around when you least expect it:twisted:

Yes bigger tyres will help, but the big killer of power in a TD5 when towing is bigger tyres, add sand and it will make things worse, also add the fact that the TD5 Disco is heavier than the V8, maybe lowering pressures a bit more next time might be better.

bruiser if you do decide to get bigger tyres, then a chip upgrade will need to be added as well if your towing a lot, especially if doing a lot of sand driving.

One other point about V8 v TD5, (and I hope I'm not opening that can of worms:p)in theroy the TD5 should be better at lower speeds than the V8, because the TD5 developes it max torque at 1950rpm, I'm pretty sure the V8 developes it's torque at a much higher rpm, also a diesel has always been a better tow vehicle than a petrol because of it's torque, the V8 will always be faster but towing is not about speed and power but low down torque.

But of coarse sand would probably throw that theroy out the window.

Baz.

Hastykiwi
27th October 2009, 11:43 AM
I CAN HEAR YOUR CENTER DIFF SCREAMING IN PAIN FROM HERE!

WHY ARE SO MANY PEOPLE CONCERNED ABOUT HAVING THE CENTER DIFF LOCK ENGAGED. WITH THE CENTER DIFF LOCK OFF & UNDER HARD LOADS IF YOU HAVE ANY WHEEL SPIN BETWEEN THE FRONT AND REAR DIFF'S YOU WILL PREMATURELY WEAR THE PHOSPHER BRONZE BUSHES IN THE DIFF CENTER. NEXT THING YOU WILL NOTICE IS THE DRIVE TRAIN CLUNKY. THEN THE LAST STAGE IS BANG:twisted:
IT WON'T HAPPEN OVERNIGHT BUT IT WILL HAPPEN.


Probably for the same reason people have front and rear locked diffs. More traction. :)

Of course their will be more wear and tear, but we don't go 4wdriving to make the car as long as possible. If i wanted to do that I'd stay on the pavement.

cheers
Nick

Pedro_The_Swift
27th October 2009, 11:45 AM
Turbo's will never beat a NA V8 near idle,,

it not about HP or torque,,
its just the amount of cylinders firing every 360deg,,

over the early 'teens and its Game On!;)

Redback
27th October 2009, 12:38 PM
Turbo's will never beat a NA V8 near idle,,

it not about HP or torque,,
its just the amount of cylinders firing every 360deg,,

over the early 'teens and its Game On!;)

Yeah, well come on young fella lets drag:twisted:
















































Baz:D

Pedro_The_Swift
27th October 2009, 03:25 PM
yea baby!

set max RPM to 1000,,,,

:Rolling:

ecka
27th October 2009, 08:44 PM
someone mentioned turning the tc off how is this done on a td5 04,going to Stockton beach in a few weeks would be interesting to see difference between tc on and tc off
Ecka.

Hastykiwi
27th October 2009, 09:13 PM
someone mentioned turning the tc off how is this done on a td5 04,going to Stockton beach in a few weeks would be interesting to see difference between tc on and tc off
Ecka.

Ahh you don't have that luxury, unless you cut a wire or pull a fuse


As for this turbo vs V8 debate:

1) In the situation described in the first post, its probably the least important aspect of the issue. Tyre size, tyre pressure, and CDL give better results first up.

2) I think you have mistaken the torque argument to be one between V8's and turbo's. Its V8's and diesels thats the issue.
Better yet .......a V8 diesel.:D

Flame on!

Nick

buzz66
29th October 2009, 09:18 AM
Probably for the same reason people have front and rear locked diffs. More traction. :)

Of course their will be more wear and tear, but we don't go 4wdriving to make the car as long as possible. If i wanted to do that I'd stay on the pavement.

cheers
Nick

I give up, the level of understanding is just not there I guess

Fluids
29th October 2009, 10:30 AM
someone mentioned turning the tc off how is this done on a td5 04,going to Stockton beach in a few weeks would be interesting to see difference between tc on and tc off
Ecka.

Ecka ... you can't turn it off (not without modifying things). I live at the northern end of Stockton Beach and own an 04 TD5 Auto ... CDL engaged, with tires at 18psi (Cooper ST 255/70) and you'll be good to go ... 14-16psi if you get stuck (we try to dig out before lowering tire pressures below 18psi). 16psi makes a huge difference ...

Running like this I find the T/C really doesn't kick in unless you're pushing it really hard .... for leisurley driving 4th low range with sport mode button enaged takes me almost anywhere I point the beast (except up those soft powderey dunes! .... it is a 2.5T truck btw :) ... without CDL engaged the T/C works a plenty and the going is much harder ... esp' when the sand is powder soft!

Vienna Green Metallic with 6 spoke alloys ... c'ya on the beach ... maybe.

Kev..

disco_thrasher
29th October 2009, 11:37 AM
Ecka ... you can't turn it off (not without modifying things).


Depends what model disco you have, i have a td5 2000 which has cdl if i engage my cdl with the car running then turn the ignition off leaving the cdl engaged ,then turning the car back on it disengages the TC and ABS ,and the only way to re-engage these 2 is by turning cdl off while the car is on then turning the car off and restarting it , i found it very usefull being able to turn the TC off as it can hinder your performance in different terrians
Cheers Kelvin

bruiser69
29th October 2009, 05:35 PM
Mine is also 2000 TD5. I have been under vehicle & can see protrusion to enable CDL. Do you turn this manually with spanner or have you fitted remote activation? If so what type?
Cheers..B

disco_thrasher
29th October 2009, 07:47 PM
Mine is also 2000 TD5. I have been under vehicle & can see protrusion to enable CDL. Do you turn this manually with spanner or have you fitted remote activation? If so what type?
Cheers..B

i still get out and climb underneath as i dont care about getting dirty when i am in the bush i use a #10 spanner which sits in my door pocket all the time i also prefer the tc to be off with the wheeling i do as its normally very rocky and the tc continually goes off been twin locked it does not mater to me if the tc is off

when you get under come from the drivers side and get up under where thetransfer case joins with front drive shaft get ontop of the transfer case you can feel there are a few bolts up there the one closest to the gear box it should move with ease away from you and twds you

engage it then turn your disco off then back on and your cdl light will be on abs and tc and it will mean your cdl is activated and your tc and abs is off to re-engage do what i said in previos post

tell me how it went:D
cheers kelvin

ecka
29th October 2009, 07:53 PM
Ecka ... you can't turn it off (not without modifying things). I live at the northern end of Stockton Beach and own an 04 TD5 Auto ... CDL engaged, with tires at 18psi (Cooper ST 255/70) and you'll be good to go ... 14-16psi if you get stuck (we try to dig out before lowering tire pressures below 18psi). 16psi makes a huge difference ...

Running like this I find the T/C really doesn't kick in unless you're pushing it really hard .... for leisurley driving 4th low range with sport mode button enaged takes me almost anywhere I point the beast (except up those soft powderey dunes! .... it is a 2.5T truck btw :) ... without CDL engaged the T/C works a plenty and the going is much harder ... esp' when the sand is powder soft!

Vienna Green Metallic with 6 spoke alloys ... c'ya on the beach ... maybe.

Kev..

Hi Kev plan to be up there on 11th Dec i will keep a eye out for you.
I am driving 04 td5 auto silver should be a white cruiser with me and possibly another td5
ecka

Hastykiwi
29th October 2009, 11:12 PM
I give up, the level of understanding is just not there I guess


Are you serious? The majority of the discovery 2 community has CDL (except for those years) and use it, and you ask why everybody worries about it. You don't think after 9 yrs of D2's and the combined experience on these boards it would be obvious if there was a significant issue?

Perhaps with experience we understand the difference it makes in traction, and while acknowleding the extra wear and tear it creates, we offset that against performance and the extra wear and tear the alternative TC operation will create.

On the other hand you could enlighten us with your clearly superior levels of understanding and quantify the relative life span of a CDL that is utilized regularly vs the life span of a front and rear diff subject to the forces of traction control with our CDL.

N.

Ferret
30th October 2009, 01:18 AM
cdl and traction control off and you will fly up.

I CAN HEAR YOUR CENTER DIFF SCREAMING IN PAIN FROM HERE!

WHY ARE SO MANY PEOPLE CONCERNED ABOUT HAVING THE CENTER DIFF LOCK ENGAGED.


I give up, the level of understanding is just not there I guess

Buzz66, at the risk of sticking my nose where it may not be wanted, what beefy wrote is ambiguous. You have taken it to mean:

"both cdl and traction control off, and you will fly up".

I can't speak for beefy but I know he does advocate that the cdl should be engaged when traction is lost. I think the correct interpretation of what beefy wrote is:

"using cdl, and traction control off, you will fly up".

Hope this clears up some miss understandings here, if not then I'll quietly butt out.:angel:

Hastykiwi
30th October 2009, 09:20 AM
Buzz66, at the risk of sticking my nose where it may not be wanted, what beefy wrote is ambiguous. You have taken it to mean:

"both cdl and traction control off, and you will fly up".

I can't speak for beefy but I know he does advocate that the cdl should be engaged when traction is lost. I think the correct interpretation of what beefy wrote is:

"using cdl, and traction control off, you will fly up".

Hope this clears up some miss understandings here, if not then I'll quietly butt out.:angel:



Ahhhh!

i see where we both got it wrong.


i guess that means we were all on the same page from the beginning.:angel:


cheers
Nick

Redback
30th October 2009, 10:01 AM
OK at the risk of opening a can of worms here, why do people want the turn the TC off, my understanding of the way TC works is it stops wheel spin which slows momentum, now when the TC activates once it senses wheel spin, it should gain you traction and momentum again, in theroy:confused:

So has anyone put this to the test, put 2 D2s together and have one with the TC off and the other on and went up a dune to see which one goes the furtherest.

I have never turned mine off, even though I can.

We won't mention ABS, that's a whole other story:p

Baz.

beefy
30th October 2009, 12:35 PM
we have done this, hastykiwi, ferret and i on a dune down south of perth. the two td5(one auto) both made it very easy. Peter in a v8 auto could not even lift on the bottom with out the traction control kicking in a stopping him. we pulled the fuse and he made it with in 10ms of the top and had to recovered from there. (with an f250 as my disco would not even move him). first i do in sand is kill the traction control and put the cdl in and i have never had a problem. some of the dunes that we tackle here are 800-1000m faces. Peter can back it up once the traction control was turned off his car never has a problem getting up.

Ferret
30th October 2009, 08:23 PM
OK at the risk of opening a can of worms here, why do people want the turn the TC off, my understanding of the way TC works is it stops wheel spin which slows momentum, now when the TC activates once it senses wheel spin, it should gain you traction and momentum again, in theroy:confused:

The problem with TC in sand is that in some situations (deep very soft sand, long dune climbs etc) it just never seems to turn off, ie it is working on one or another wheel for long periods of time.

Now I know that should be good because it is said to prevent loss of drive to that axel. But TC is reactive, before is can kick in it must sense wheel spin, once that happens the breaks are applied to that wheel. Once it no longer senses spin the breaks are released. But it can't react to all these changes instantaneously. So if the situation with regards to traction at different wheels is changing very fast (like in trying to drive through sand) I think the wrong wheels end up getting braked at the wrong time some of the time.

In many cases I think TC in sand is not a hindrance but where it just appears to be going continuously then I think you have to conclude it probably is not helping and you can't be worse off without it and some times maybe even better off without it.

If it does help, then it is nowhere near as helpful on sand as a centre diff lock and tyres at the right pressure.

Just my theory.

silverhammer
6th November 2009, 09:20 PM
Wandered into this thread a bit late..sorrty if I'm barging in. But noticed th mention of using Sport button with Low range on a D2a auto on sand. My understanding is this is NOT a good thing...in Low Range Sport mode becomes Manual mode. It won't change down or up unless the motor is about to stall. This is the opposite of Sport mode High range, which changes shift points etc to pep performance.

IMHO, the TC on D2a is significantly improved over D2's, barely flickering on most of the time in my experience.

I've just swapped from a 4.6V8 auto D1 with front and rear diff locks. My 03 D2a auto (chipped...thanks Tombie) is just as capable on sand, and blows it away off and on road. Couldn't resist planting it in the V8, it was excellent at digging 4 holes very bluddy fast.

Thats my 20c worth!!

Fluids
7th November 2009, 09:49 AM
[QUOTE=silverhammer;1107943]Wandered into this thread a bit late..sorrty if I'm barging in. But noticed th mention of using Sport button with Low range on a D2a auto on sand. My understanding is this is NOT a good thing...in Low Range Sport mode becomes Manual mode. It won't change down or up unless the motor is about to stall. This is the opposite of Sport mode High range, which changes shift points etc to pep performance.
QUOTE]

No, it works great! Allows you to keep the torque up without spinning the wheels (and causing T/C to kick in) ... this is in an Auto D2a. It pulls away off the line in 1st and very quickly upshifts to 4th and stays there ... no chance of stalling the motor :)

Kev..

silverhammer
7th November 2009, 05:22 PM
Hey Kev, if it works for you, thats great. As a new D2a auto owner, I've been trying out all the stuff like HDC.. I read about the Low Range Manual/Sport setting, and tried it and mine does just that...won't change unless you do it manually. I think its for snow/ice.

Been out in the bush again today, in the mud. I'm so impressed with the D2a auto vs my old D1 auto V8. But I still bogged it up to a..hole!!! Could be the pilot.
Cheers
Max

Fluids
8th November 2009, 11:52 AM
Hey Kev, if it works for you, thats great. As a new D2a auto owner, I've been trying out all the stuff like HDC.. I read about the Low Range Manual/Sport setting, and tried it and mine does just that...won't change unless you do it manually. I think its for snow/ice.

Been out in the bush again today, in the mud. I'm so impressed with the D2a auto vs my old D1 auto V8. But I still bogged it up to a..hole!!! Could be the pilot.
Cheers
Max


Hey Max ... snow/ice ... anywhere you have loose surface and want to avoid wheelspin ... sand :)

Bogged ?? D2a's don't get bogged ... they just stop for a breather, or to let the driver regain his composure ! :D

By comparison, the D2a is leisurley ... my SIII's required lots of loud pedal, gusto & enthusiasm ... beach driving in the D2a is a doddle by comparison!

Kev..