Installed central locking into my 1993 Defender

[2234jones]

Central locking installation in a defender
Hi all, I was so pleased with my seats, I have now installed central locking to add further luxury to it, here are the steps I did when I installed it.

First get your central locking kit, my was $3-00 from a charity shop,good find! but a kit costs about $49-00 from super cheap autos.

The only thing missing was the instructions and wiring diagram, but I found a wiring diagram on the net and installation was quite easy. but it did take four hours to install.

First check all the parts are in the box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/75.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/76.jpg

The next thing is to position your central locking relay unit, I chose in the fuse box as there was room and it's quite central.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/77.jpg

Remove the panels on the door, by prying the clips and removing the screws from the door handle and window winding handle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/78.jpg


Heres the back door


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/79.jpg

I placed the actuator where I was going to have the unit and I then bent the bracket supplied in the kit, drilled the holes and riveted the bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/80.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/81.jpg


I then bent the rod to link the actuator to the locking mechanism.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/82.jpg

Once i did this, I then screwed the actuator into place with the rod fitted, I then screwed the joint block onto the new and old rod.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/83.jpg

I then wired the unit through the door and and placed the door panel back on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/84.jpg

I placed a grommit to prevent the wires getting worn by the sharp edges.

Then after I did the rear doors, I then did the front doors.

The front doors are different to the rear and the bracket looked like this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/85.jpg

Again after i had installed the unit and you have to make sure the rods are bent square and not on an angle other than 90 degrees.

On the fronts there is a hole on the lock mechanism, where you attach the new rod and check the actuator is fully in and the door is locked.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/86.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/87.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/88.jpg


I then again threaded the wire through the door.

Once this was done I replaced the door panel and then wired in the relay unit to the fuse box compartment.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/89.jpg

I placed a link fuse for the central locking system, and then closed all of the doors and hey prestow, my 1993 defender has working central locking. yipee.

thanks Mark:D

[dcm]

good job. mate.:BigThumb:

[spudboy]

Central locking! Have you gone soft man :eek:

No - seriously, good job and well documented. Thanks for posting.

[Mulgo]

Want to install that into my 2002 Defender which is a 130 so nothing of those 110 gadgets factory installed.

Now the plan is to link it with the standard LR alarm - which I did install a while ago. Has anybody tried to link an aftermarket central locking system to the standard LR alarm system?

Does anybody know into which wires I have to hock it up?

Thanks.

Cheers,
Daniel

[9w2LYL]

good job...

I had my dismantled due to battery running flat problem, my one came with alarm system where power supply is require in stand by mood. Some how the current lost from the system and forced me to take them out.
Make sure you align the actuator (the puller?) perfectly else you will have a faulty and worst case you will have a broken actuator..

cheer

[Mulgo]

OK. Job done - CL is working when I lock either of the front doors - what a luxury! :D

Now as in my earlier post, the plan is to hook the CL up to the LR genuine alarm so that I could use the remote to open the doors.

No idea if that will work at all.

Need input on how I have to hook up the white and brown cable from the CL (see attached pic).

Thanks.

Cheers,
Daniel

21481

[Ampo]

This tells you how to do it:
Defender TD5 Central Locking (http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/182767-Defender-TD5-Central-Locking)

I just used a couple of 2 wire universal solonoids from e-bay on the front doors and they work fine with my LR remote; however at the moment it will only lock and arm the alarm, and unlock and disarm the alarm, so I'm keeping my eye open for a genuine LR drivers door solonoid with 4 wires which should give me all the options described in the owners manual.

[Mulgo]

This tells you how to do it:
Defender TD5 Central Locking (http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/182767-Defender-TD5-Central-Locking)

I just used a couple of 2 wire universal solonoids from e-bay on the front doors and they work fine with my LR remote; however at the moment it will only lock and arm the alarm, and unlock and disarm the alarm, so I'm keeping my eye open for a genuine LR drivers door solonoid with 4 wires which should give me all the options described in the owners manual.


Thanks for that - will try over the weekend.

Here in Australia you can buy the 4-wires solonoid at a automotive spare parts shop - no need to get LR standard ones.

Cheers,
Daniel

[2234jones]

Hi all,

Just keeping you up to date, I have now installed a rear door actuator so all five doors lock and open, and I have also now upgraded the central locking to remote. It has made life so much easier and as I installed myself, it has cost a grand total of $45-00. Not bad I think.

I will post pictures for the rear door later.

Thanks Mark[bigsmile]

[abaddonxi]

And added to the Good Oil central locking thread -
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/43927-central-locking-defender-county-110-a.html

[rainman]

Firstly thanks for Mark for sowing the seed. I've just installed central locking into my 1995 130 dual cab and found his pictures very useful :BigThumb:.

I've taken a few more shots and though I'd add some more detail about wiring and the little issues I encountered.

The kit I used was "Steelmate" which is readily available from Jaycar for about $40 (for 4 doors). It appears very similar to the kit Mark used, although there looks to be a couple of slight differences. The main one is that I think the actuators are a bit fatter. This meant that if I just mounted the front door ones as detailed in Mark's shots, the window would hit it when wound down. So, I cut the mounting hole down:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/691.jpg

Before mounting it I had to bend the mounting area outwards slightly otherwise bottom of the actuator angles towards the window, again fouling it when wound down:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/692.jpg

.... and it ends up mounting up like this. You can see the actuator now sticks out slightly from under the inner door panel. The mounting bracket/strip needs to have a slight curve bent into it over it's full length:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/693.jpg

I routed the wiring straight upwards from the actuator, around the window channel and across the top horizontal door channel. I figure it's more likely to stay away from water there, and less likely to hinder the drain holes in the bottom of the door.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/694.jpg

I used 7mm split tubing in areas where there is the potential for rubbing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/695.jpg

To get the wiring out of the door, I filed a U-shaped hole into the front edge of the door card.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/696.jpg

And ended up with this (again, 7mm split conduit):

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/697.jpg

From here the wiring simply goes in between the dash and the firewall and runs along with the rest of the wiring to the centre (behind the radio) where it then goes down to the fuse box where I, as Mark did, mounted the control unit. I had good earth on the fuse block bracket, so terminated the earth wire under the bolt holding the unit itself. The fuse block bracket has two M4 nuts welded on (for what?) so I just screwed an M4 bolt into one of them. I got the +12V feed from the wire to the number one fuse, which is for the hazard flashers (so not switched through the ignition).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/698.jpg

In the shot above you can see the blue and green wires for the rear doors exiting through left side oval grommet in the firewall. This grommet was already punctured on my vehicle for the electric brake control wiring harness.

I then routed these wires along through the transmission tunnel past the battery box and split it in line with the B-pillars.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/699.jpg

The wiring then goes into the hole in the bottom of the B-pillars.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/700.jpg


I haven't quite finished the back doors yet so I'll post up more pics when done ;).


James.

[rainman]

Ok - the back doors are complete. I mounted the actuator as Mark did in the first post, so I haven't bothered with detail of that.

To get the wiring out of the B-pillar I made use of one of the two holes already there. These are about in line with the best place to route the wiring into the door, where it can run between the frame and the window channel. I used a grommet that was a very snug fit around the conduit, to ensure it didn't pull out (the reason will become clear). I also put a blanking grommet into the second hole whilst at it ;).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/646.jpg

Next, things get a bit weird so bear with me. I grabbed a pair of my wife's old underpants :eek: and cut the waist elastic out of them. I attached this to the end of the conduit that is inside the door with contact adhesive and a couple of cable ties.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/647.jpg

I then fed the elastic and wiring back into the door, tensioned the elastic slightly and fastened the other end of the elastic under the front bolt for the external door handle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/648.jpg

This means The wiring and conduit will be pulled into the door when it is closed, rather than folding up between the B-pillar and the door frame, leading to potential wire breakages. You could use a metal spring in place of the elastic, but I didn't have any. I know the elastic will eventually perish, but having virtually no tension on it with the door closed will prolong it's life. A fine metal spring is always going rust, so it's much of a muchness in my humble opinion.

I located the wiring across the top of the middle door frame member and held it in place with a self adhesive cable tie mount to stop it falling into the path of the window.

Door card on, door open (as with front doors, a U-shaped hole filed into the card):

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/649.jpg


Door closed:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/650.jpg

The reason I didn't tension the front door wiring conduit in the same way is because the wiring to them comes out out the dash about 100mm above where it enters the doors. This means the conduit is on an angle with the door open (the hypotenuse of the triangle) and therefore has a better opportunity to fold away and downwards as the door closes. There is also plenty of room for it between the dash and the door so there's no potential for sharp bends or crushing.

Job done! Onto the next......... :(


James.

[GyroLandy]

Thanks guys, lots of detail. I'm doing the same to my '94 Defender, if I want all 5 doors including the rear to work can I buy a kit from Jaycar with 5 actuators? Would the rear door use the same as the other 4?

Any pics of the rear door fitment?

Lastly, can I use any aftermarket alarm/immobiliser?

[rainman]

Hi GyroLandy,

Jaycar sells the actuators separately for about $10 so getting an extra one won't be a problem. I'm sure it can be piggy backed onto the wiring harness, but the Jaycar staff would be able to advise on that.

The unit has a dedicated wire to feed to an alarm system, so all good there too. :cool:

James.

P.S. Sorry. Forgot - my installation is on a 130 dual cab so no rear door.

[GyroLandy]

Thx, any idea where I can get electric window conversion kit?

[rainman]

Thx, any idea where I can get electric window conversion kit?

I looked into it but the price was going to be too prohibitive ~ like $800 - $1000. If you find a cheaper way let me know ;).

James.

[GyroLandy]

I found a place in the UK which is $368 for 4 windows. Looking to order this week.Don't know what the shipping is.

[Grizzly_Adams]

Probably not the same place but here's a mob that does an electric window kit: SPAL AUTOMOTIVE (UK) LIMITED ELECTRIC WINDOW KITS (http://www.spalautomotive.co.uk/acatalog/spal_universal_electric_window_kits.html)

[danialan]

Thanks to Mark and James for the pictures and info. It made my install heaps easier. The only things I can add is that my actuators were really fat and so I had to saw off the mounting tabs off the front ones, and give the door inner frame a good bending so as it didn't scratch my new window tinting. I also had to rivet on a small plate to get the actuator to sit at the right angle as per the photo. I also stripped the insulation off some 6mm wire and pushed it over the bent end of the actuating rod (then added some heat shrink) to reduce the rattles.

Alan

[VladTepes]

So has anyone done this with a Tdi and somehow incorporated a remote fob for opening?

[rainman]

So has anyone done this with a Tdi and somehow incorporated a remote fob for opening?

I intend to Vlad, by installing an alarm system, but still haven't got around to it. The control box for the central locking has a wire to connect to for remote opening. If you don't want an alarm I think you can buy a remote-only kit from Jaycar (I haven't check their site recently).

James.

[SSmith]

I did it to a 200tdi 3door (didnt get around to doing the rear door) with fob, alarm and immobalise. Cant provide any pics as the defender is now in 3000km away. But once the central locking is in it really is just plug and play to upgrade to the fob.

I used the rhino kit, cant remember where i got it from, probably evilbay.

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[VladTepes]

I don't believe in immobilisers - too often they immobilise the car when you don't want them to.

[SSmith]

Fair enuff.

In this case it was to appease both owner and insurance company following theft of the defender.

Btw. Great write up on the central locking :thumbup:

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