Rodding P38 radiator, possible?

[ytt105]

I've got a 1996 P38 4.6. It hasn't overheated, but on very hot days the guage moves up from its normal position dangerously close to the red.
Its got a newish fan clutch which I'm sure works ok.

I think its time to rod out the radiator. I was able to get that done on my 3.9 classic, but can I get the P38 radiator rodded or is it not possible with that type of radiator.

[Kalincho]

From my experience, some guys say they can, others say they can't.

Ask your local LR mechanic and see who they use?

The danger is the top and bottom plastic moldings, these have to be removed and re installed with out breaking, depending on how old and brittle these plastic bits are you may end up having to buy a new one anyways.

I had no option(chemiweld) and bought a new one. Though I have heard that there is varying quality out there if you go down this route.

hope this is of some help?

Kalincho

[Remy]

As Kalincho said the plastic mouldings are the problem. They are close to the price of a new radiator and the commercial places don't really like them because if they break a new one then they have to replace. In fact they told me that it was going to be my problem if they broke it.

I have replaced my radiator with a new one, head gasket and liners are ok, electrical fans have a bypass so that i can manually turn them on viscous fan is new, thermostat is new and guess what on those really hot days the needle still rises when going very slow but cools down when i pick up enough speed.

I have given up. I think Ron on this forum changed his thermostat for metal pipes and put a thermostat that opens at lower temperature up the top. Ron if you read this is that replacement available and has it made a difference on the really hot days? I would like to know more as i only have the water pump to go and then everything is new!

Cheers,
Remy

[Hoges]

Serious question: why do you believe the radiator may need to be rodded?

Radiators attached to aluminium engines are generally free of "glug" because they don't rust. If the correct coolant has always been used it should be virtually trouble free.

Is the coolant in the overflow tank cloudy or clear?

IMHO I'd be checking the thermostat and the fans AND the accuracy of the gauge before embarking on a major radiator repair...

good luck...hope it's nothing major...

[andrew e]

I have never had any trouble getting the tanks removed and cores cleaned out. I do it with every radiator i sell. Just dont brake the little hose off the top.
Andy

[p38arover]

Serious question: why do you believe the radiator may need to be rodded?

Radiators attached to aluminium engines are generally free of "glug" because they don't rust. If the correct coolant has always been used it should be virtually trouble free..

This was mine:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[willem]

This was mine:

http://img276.imageshack.us/img276/5148/p38aradtopcopy9ms.jpg

Come on Ron, tell us more!

Willem

[macca72]

If the core is glugged up it would be running hot all the time.If only on hot days it sounds more like an air flow problem.Maybe cleaning the outside first.

Keep it simple.

[landrover dave]

I f you have been using antifreeze/antiboil they contain glycol. Glycol is sugar based and over time crystallises and deposits on the inside of the radiator! A 5% restriction will cause about a 25% reduction in cooling. The only way to remove the build up is to rod the radiator. Tectaloy makes a corrosion inhibitor that doesnt have glycol so does repco.

[Hoges]

I f you have been using antifreeze/antiboil they contain glycol. Glycol is sugar based and over time crystallises and deposits on the inside of the radiator! A 5% restriction will cause about a 25% reduction in cooling. The only way to remove the build up is to rod the radiator. Tectaloy makes a corrosion inhibitor that doesnt have glycol so does repco.
:eek::eek:

It's most likely that the scale deposits in P38 radiators is due to consistent use of high mineral content water (like what happens in an electric kettle).

Lessons Learned: use demineralised water ony in the cooling system !

Ethylene glycol is thermally stable at the temp ranges we are talking about (100% EG boils a tad below 200 degC). Hence its use extensively in non automotive applications as a heat transfer agent...

[parasnoop67]

My 4.6 was running up the temp guage a bit, and the tit on the top tank was cracked underneath and leaking.
Had a new top tank fitted and the radiator cleaned out and now the guage never moves.
Cost $250 and they pulled it out and replaced it.
Guy said top tanks get brittle with time because they cop the hot water where the bottom tank gets the cooled water.

[Smeary]

I had my 4.6 done. Radiator completely cleaned out. They said it was 70% blocked. Explained the over-heating etc... RadiCool was their name. Sydney. $241 for the job. Brilliant. Experts. Don't waste your time asking a Land Rover dealer. they'll want to sell you a new radiator for $800. Look 'em up.

[ytt105]

OK I asked the question, so should update on the answer.

Yes you can get it rodded.

I took the radiator out myself. (Really stuffed that up. I tried to do it just as you would with the classic. Undo the coolers from the radiator and pull out the radiator. Only to do that you have to undo the cooler hoses and struggle with the eight bolts that hold the coolers on. When I had 7 1/2 bolts out I realised that on the P38 you DONT remove the coolers from the radiator, you remove the radiator from the coolers!! Only 2 easy bolts and its all out.)

Took it down to my local NatRad dealer and 1/2 a day and $160 later it was back in. (The easy way)

I towed my camper up Clyde Mountain yesterday, 1st and 2nd gear the whole way, (see my other post 'Dies in the bum up hills), and the temp was rock solid.

So, yes I think it is well worth doing when you have a few kms up. I've 178k on 1996 HSE.

[PaulP38a]

Took it down to my local NatRad dealer and 1/2 a day and $160 later it was back in. (The easy way)


Cool, so now there's a NatRad shop in Canberra that can do a P38A... thanks for being the lab rat ;)
Which one did you use? Now that it is warming up a bit down here, it might be prudent for me to do the same.
Cheers, Paul.

[Remy]

NATRAD wouldn't do mine:mad:

Intereted if you sit for say 5-10 min on one of these HOT days what happens to your temp guage. Mine rises! If i am moving no probs. Yes both the electric fans and viscous fan are good and running.



Cool, so now there's a NatRad shop in Canberra that can do a P38A... thanks for being the lab rat ;)
Which one did you use? Now that it is warming up a bit down here, it might be prudent for me to do the same.
Cheers, Paul.

[ytt105]

NatRad in Phillip did mine. No problems at all.

Mine would be fine in nearly all conditions until the outside temp went over 35 then the guage would go straight to just under the red.

Viscous is fine, I've had 3 on, (one new), and no changes. I've also wired my air con fans so that they come on when ever the air is on, not just when it gets hot.

[wayneg]

Anyone had their rad cleaned in Perth? Yesterday I took my Rad in for a service / Clean. Was told by the 1st place I went to they cannot get the clamp plates that size so would not do it. Second shop at first said the same then on closer inspection stated they had never seen any Rad made like mine. The clamps for the tank are part of the aluminium core. They are going to have a go at it anyway, they think the clamps will close down a second time ok . Fingers crossed. Mine is the later type Rad.

[p38arover]

The clamps for the tank are part of the aluminium core. They are going to have a go at it anyway, they think the clamps will close down a second time ok .

They're wrong. I've got a pulled apart P38A radiator in the garage.

[wayneg]

Hope you`re right. Can the clamps be re-used? Is your rad the later type, top and bottom hose on the same side?

[p38arover]

Hope you`re right. Can the clamps be re-used? Is your rad the later type, top and bottom hose on the same side?

Ahh. Maybe that's the difference. Mine are on opposite sides, bottom right, top left.

Yes, the clamps could be reused.

[Disco W.A]

Anyone had their rad cleaned in Perth? Yesterday I took my Rad in for a service / Clean. Was told by the 1st place I went to they cannot get the clamp plates that size so would not do it. Second shop at first said the same then on closer inspection stated they had never seen any Rad made like mine. The clamps for the tank are part of the aluminium core. They are going to have a go at it anyway, they think the clamps will close down a second time ok . Fingers crossed. Mine is the later type Rad.

Wayne,

if you have dramas try these mob, know what their doing
www.expressradiators.com.au (http://www.expressradiators.com.au)

Regards Roger

[poleonpom]

This may explain why my RR boils the water out through the overflow - strangely though, the temp gauge doesn't move from the middle until the car has lost 2-3 litres.

Could be a blockage somehwere?

[wayneg]

This may explain why my RR boils the water out through the overflow - strangely though, the temp gauge doesn't move from the middle until the car has lost 2-3 litres.

Could be a blockage somehwere?

I have had a couple of scares, first time on a trip out bogged down in mud trying to get out suddenly the temp went up very fast. I was warned then of a possible rad blockage but that was the 1st time I had any issues with cooling so put it down to heavily stressing the engine but noted the warning. Viscous fan checked OK and no loss of coolant. Just before Christmas one of the heater hoses burst in a big way, I put that down to age and changed it along with a couple of the other small hoses. All seemed fine until last thurs in heavy traffic the guage went into the red very quickly and coolant overflowed from the header tank. Enough warnings, I left the car to cool off returning later to bring her home ( with no temp issues ) The top hose seemed rock hard though. The rad is out and was flow checked by the 1st workshop, its heavily blocked. Time for a clean out.

[wayneg]

P38AROVER.. You are right, the clamp plates are separate as on the earlier type Rad.
Roger, Disco WA, Thanks for the pointer to Express Radiators in Welshpool. They are obviously experts in all types of Land Rover Rads and hopefully have saved me a packet.
ROCKINGHAM RADIATORS off Dixon Road Rockingham Butchered my Rad, breaking the expansion tank outlet, destroying the clamp plates, leaving ripped sections at the ends, damaging the top edges of the seal area then telling me they cant get the spares. BE WARNED.
Thankfully Express Rads have second hand bits as they repair many and can salvage the situation for a very reasonable fee.