View Full Version : 4.0 vs 4.6 P38A
jkp38a
2nd November 2009, 01:26 PM
Hi All,
I am new to AULRO and after some advice. I am intending to get back into a Range Rover and looking for a late model (BOSCH) P38a. Currently have a 2003 Disco V8 and prior to that a 75 RRC (Wish i never sold it!:(). I love the disco but hate the rear door (Split tailgate RR design is much easier to live with) hence wanting to change.
I am prepared to wait for a good example but can't decide if I should concentrate on a 4.0 or 4.6
I have herd that the 4.0 is a stronger and more spritely engine build, is there any strength to this argument?
I am happy with the power of my 4.0 Disco and fuel economy is liveable. Is the 4.6 significantly more thirsty and if so is it worth it for the power gain?
I don't care for the HSE options over the 4.0 S so my preference will purely be based on the better engine choice. Although finding a low km 2000 or 2001 4.0 S in a colour I can live with is prooving difficuilt.
Can anyone help spread some light on the choice for me.
Much appreciated.
James
willem
2nd November 2009, 03:35 PM
Hi All,
I am new to AULRO and after some advice. I am intending to get back into a Range Rover and looking for a late model (BOSCH) P38a. Currently have a 2003 Disco V8 and prior to that a 75 RRC (Wish i never sold it!:(). I love the disco but hate the rear door (Split tailgate RR design is much easier to live with) hence wanting to change.
I am prepared to wait for a good example but can't decide if I should concentrate on a 4.0 or 4.6
I have herd that the 4.0 is a stronger and more spritely engine build, is there any strength to this argument?
I am happy with the power of my 4.0 Disco and fuel economy is liveable. Is the 4.6 significantly more thirsty and if so is it worth it for the power gain?
I don't care for the HSE options over the 4.0 S so my preference will purely be based on the better engine choice. Although finding a low km 2000 or 2001 4.0 S in a colour I can live with is prooving difficuilt.
Can anyone help spread some light on the choice for me.
Much appreciated.
James
I reckon they're both good. Just look for a car that has low mileage/ colour you want/ price you want/ condition you want and buy it. Be prepared to be patient and do your research. Don't forget the auctions - you have to careful but you can get bargains.
My 4.0 is great - no issues except for a front seal leak that is getting fixed this week. But I've seen and driven 4.6s that are just as good.
Willem
PhilipA
2nd November 2009, 05:30 PM
4.6 engines have the best blocks selected ie those which have the least chance of slipping a sleeve or cracking behind the bore.
Apparently 60% of 4.0 litres get cracked blocks but ONLY 20% of 4.6s.
I guess this is not so important if the car has already had a new short motor but something to keep in mind.
Regards Philip A
jkp38a
4th November 2009, 07:21 PM
Thanks for your advice Willem & Phillip.
Interesting point on blocks and thanks for tip with auctions.
I think I will just keep an eye out for the best deal regardless of engine and just hope it's not a Friday build.
Regards, James
Grumbles
4th November 2009, 08:37 PM
I think background checks are as important as service records and pre-purchase inspections. The type of guy the previous owner was means a lot. Was he a penny pincher who perhaps avoided any recommended extra maintenance or was he a sympathetic owner who listened to the spanner swingers and went the extra mile with the extra work which they recommended regardless of cost.
But patience with your purchase is critical in getting a good one. 4or 4.6? Honestly, if I was getting a P38 then I think I'd be wanting the whole box and dice -the full disaster - a HSE with all the fruit and that 4.6 engine. The Bosch 4 and the 4.6 P38s generally share the same generic problems so you might as well travel in style. And I have seen the odd, reasonably low kilometre and reasonably well priced P38 Autobiography come on the market too.
With a prepurchase check a sniff test may prove to be a wise investment too.
But good luck in your hunt for your P38 - I'm jealous it's not me looking for a P38 as well.
Kalincho
4th November 2009, 09:02 PM
I have the best of both worlds, a HSE P38 with a rebuilt 4.0L motor that we rebuilt and swapped ourselves, I have to say that I do not notice a huge amount of difference. Ecomomy wise the 4.0L seems to use around the same amount. There are always performance upgrades that make the difference.
Sir Ron had a link a while back to the color code of the engine blocks and the quality of them, maybe he can re post the link?
The 4.0L that we put in had a red paint mark on the valley, (not visible with out pulling the plenum chamber off)
I think the critical point is that either motor has never over heated. Period. My mech said that this is the number 1 issue with either of these motors.
If I ever bought another one, I would be swapping out the radiator and the water pump as a preliminary precaution.
Just don't buy a 95' like I did, too many things to fix up, almost there...though still a beautiful drive.
Kalincho.
PaulP38a
4th November 2009, 09:10 PM
James - another consideration is what you want to use it for...
Are you after a "pretty" P38A to cruise around town and highways, or are you after one you can get dirty and scrape over rocks and around trees?
So... motor, electricals and mechanicals aside - you aim for the best you can get and/or negotiate for the things you know will need doing. The condition of the body and paintwork may be a secondary concern if you intend to put a few more "character lines" on it.
At least that was my logic when I bought my second P38A - a lowly "Pov Pack" 4.0 :)
Happy hunting.
Cheers, Paul.
Grumbles
4th November 2009, 09:13 PM
You are spot on about over heating and these Rover V8s but as well as the radiator and water pump Kalincho I'd be having a real hard look at the cooling fan system. It was the failing viscous fan hub [constantly over looked by the Landy mechanic too] which eventually cooked my goose. And even then I'd be fitting a low water level detector into the top of the radiator. [as I have now done too].
whyatts
5th November 2009, 08:19 AM
remember most 4.6's have leather interior and a sun roof and a few other extras. keep that in mind if you do/dont like these options
Power is similar, fuel economy is similar.
In my experience the 4.0 is a bit like buying a 3 door disco ( when you can get 5 doors for the same price) being less desirable it may be harder to sell when the time comes.
jkp38a
5th November 2009, 10:37 AM
Thanks Guys for your help/advice.
Looks like I'm leaning towards a HSE and yes it will have to be a 'pretty' one otherwise my wife will make me park it at the end of the street!:(
As all HSE's seem to come with sunroofs does anyone know of any issues with them rusting/leaking around the seal?
Regards, James
Scouse
5th November 2009, 11:04 AM
As all HSE's seem to come with sunroofs does anyone know of any issues with them rusting/leaking around the seal?
The only issue with rust is the metal strip that the glass panel seal sits on. Water seeps in at the rubber joint area & corrodes the strip. If the seal is lifting around the join area, chances are that the strip is rusty.
The drain tubes block up with crud over the years too but that's a relatively simple fix.
willem
5th November 2009, 08:36 PM
remember most 4.6's have leather interior and a sun roof and a few other extras. keep that in mind if you do/dont like these options
Power is similar, fuel economy is similar.
In my experience the 4.0 is a bit like buying a 3 door disco ( when you can get 5 doors for the same price) being less desirable it may be harder to sell when the time comes.
True, but if the right car is there at the right price, then that's the car to get. I'd prefer an HSE too, but I couldn't argue with a 99 4.0 with 144 000kms on it at the price I paid. It was just the right car at the right time at the right price. I had done my research and knew what I was looking for, so I bought it. I reckon that's the key thing. Know what you want and then when the right car comes up don't get too fussed about the details - colour, luxury level etc. After all the pov pack is still pretty fancy compared to most cars.
Willem
Kalincho
6th November 2009, 06:41 PM
There is a 1998 HSE P38 on ebay in NSW for sale, an autobiography at that.
Car looks in great nick, done a few km (290 000) tidy inside and out and then I scrolled down to the bottom and this is what I saw...
has been well looked after.... it is overheats easy ,,, not sure if it is just a head gasket.... apart from that it is good condition........
I have dibbs on the passengers fog light and I woun't mind the wrap around bull bar either!
Andrew E please let me know when these parts are avaialble?
haha! ;)
DT-P38
6th November 2009, 10:53 PM
Agree with avoiding 1995's (i.e. the GEM/LUCAS early ones)... I have one too, and have experienced numerous gremlins/glitches... it seems to me that the likelihood of all elec's being in good cond on an early one is pretty slim. I'm no expert, but if it was me, I would go for a late model bosch fitted "toorak tractor" from a cashed up suburb with full service history and low km's. I guess its the best of breed everyone would love to have! suggest patience would be the biggest factor. Good ones are out there if you take your time... and spend $30K dont bother going cheap up front!
wayneg
7th November 2009, 07:45 PM
As all HSE's seem to come with sunroofs does anyone know of any issues with them rusting/leaking around the seal?
I bougt my late 99 Thor 4.6 cheaply because the sunroof had leaked, the headlining was down and all the console electrics fried. The Sunroof panel come out in minutes, remove the seal, clean off rust, add rust inhibitor refit seal with suitable silicone. Easy fix. The previous owner had crapped himself with the quotes to fix the leak, headlining and electrics so was desperate to ofload the car.
Grumbles
8th November 2009, 03:08 AM
What was involved to fix your 'fried console electrics' Wayneneg?
wayneg
8th November 2009, 11:18 AM
What was involved to fix your 'fried console electrics' Wayneg?
Water had got into the console switch panel, The PCB was green with corrosion. Just bought one from Ebay-UK. I was pretty lucky as I got a brand new walnut one for 100 pounds. It had a small piece of the bottom locating lug chipped off which make no difference at all once fitted. The grey plastic ones come up all the time for around 50 pounds second hand. 15 minute swap and all windows, sunroof and door mirrors working ( thank God), The headlining I had done professionally as it was only A$450 drive in drive out. As the colour was very light cream I thought better let them mess it up. Turned out superb and well worth the money.
lorkers
8th November 2009, 12:26 PM
Looks like I'm leaning towards a HSE
Yep, I'd go for an HSE if you can find a decent one too.
After, all you do get, not only the sunroof but also:
Leather memory seats
headlight washer wipers
fog/driving lights
vanity mirror with lights
cruise and stereo controls on steering wheel
a bit more fake wood on the dashboard
CD stacker and subwoofer in the boot
As debated here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/86278-p38-se-vs-hse.html
But do make sure all the bits work: when you're looking at a car of this vintage, it's more important to get a good one.
I went for a '99 4.6 HSE last month after a lot of shopping, haven't regretted it, even though I had to pay over the odds to find one with all the specs in the colour I wanted, below 120k on the clock. The one I found had spent most of it's life as a shopping car in Artarmon, so you can find 'em. Only problem is the leaky sunroof (I'm half way through fixing) and a really rather stuffed CD stacker, which I finally managed to cure this weekend, by taking it to bits (I'll post a cure on this with pics if anyone's interested).
In terms of the 4.6, I manage 12l/100kms on the motorways, and 25l/kms around town: slightly painful, but useable.
wayneg
8th November 2009, 01:00 PM
In terms of the 4.6, I manage 12l/100kms on the motorways, and 25l/kms around town: slightly painful, but useable.
I accept your view on low K`s however 200000k done on the freeway is probably less demanding than 100000k doing shopping trips.
I drive mine daily in Perth and average 16.6 ltrs per 100k in traffic. On a lon run get 13ltrs per 100k. If I were getting only 25ltrs per 100k I would at least clean the Maf sensor or change it, seems a bit high. Is yours a Bosch Thor if so the HT leads are prone to deteriorate quickly and might be worth looking at?
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