Discovery WVO Conversion.

[setsuna]

Due to the distinct lack of posts in this section, I decided to document the conversion of my Discovery to use WVO/UCO (Waste Vegetable Oil/ Waste Cooking Oil).

This is a wonderful fuel which runs very nicely, smells nice, and is 100% carbon neutral (unlike bio-diesel)!!

Some Background:

The oil needs to be heated to become a similar viscosity as diesel to be able to be pumped and adequately injected for combustion, so you need to start your car on diesel, get it up to temperature, and then ‘switch’ over to run on oil.

It is also recommended to ‘purge’ your fuel system—injector pump, lines, and injectors of the oil before shutting down for extended periods when the engine temperature drops. 1. Because the engine will have a hard time to start again, and 2. the cooling of the oil in the injectors could possibly lead to coking of the nozzles.


Project Part 1: Installing Twin tanks. (Diesel/WVO)

I sourced some lovely sill tanks from a fellow AULRO member on Friday, so the first task was installing them.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1300.jpg

I wanted to install a stock sender into the tank, so I could use the original dash gauge to indicate fuel levels, so got angry on the tank with the grinder.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1301.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1302.jpg

Shallower tank, and different sizes required some float modification.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1303.jpg

Some pictures inside the tank.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1304.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1305.jpg

I had originally intended on using the fuel pickup/return on the sender I was installing, but looking inside the tank convinced me to use the tank pickup instead.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1306.jpg

Filling was originally designed to be via ‘marine hatch’ under the footwell mat, but I intended otherwise.
The pretty metallic ring is off an old steering wheel I had kept for some reason, probably because it was pretty and too good to throw away, good thing I kept it after all!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1307.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1308.jpg

Weld in the filler.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1309.jpg

Weld on the mounts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1310.jpg

Some spray paint makes it look a bit prettier :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1311.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1312.jpg

“Lest we forget”

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1313.jpg

Now the filler. I raided a engine oil filler housing off a motor years ago ‘be handy one day!!’, and so it finally came in handy!

Machined down a lip for it to adapt to the filler pipe.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1314.jpg

As the material size would allow direct fitment to the filler pipe, had to do it in two stages, fit the filler cap to the sleeve, then the sleeve to the pipe.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1315.jpg

Tight fit, and with a tiny smear of blue, it will never come apart, and never leak! (hope)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1316.jpg

“Together at last, a match made.. IN THE WORKSHOP!!”

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1317.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1318.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1319.jpg

Some more blue, some rubber and a plate to keep them all together.
Also not having a compatible connector, araldite makes a strong alternative ;)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1320.jpg

Installed nicely.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1321.jpg

Connected nicely.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1322.jpg

Finished off nicely!!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1323.jpg

[setsuna]

Project Part 2: WVO ‘Conversion’


The Raw components:

Pollak Valve: comes with 6 ports, diesel in, diesel return, wvo in, wvo return, and the connections to and from the motor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1292.jpg

Heat Exchanger: comes in various sizes, this one is a ’30 plate’ unit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1293.jpg

It has 30 plates between which alternating fluids flow with a copper plate in between for efficient thermal transfer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1294.jpg

Pollak and heat exchanger installed nicely.
Also added a vacuum gauge to the fuel supply line to monitor the condition of the filters, not much use in the engine bay, but it was a nice gauge I had raided and saved so I just had to use it! :) in cabin gauge to come.

Coolant and Fuel lines connected.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1295.jpg

Coolant lines installed connects the heat exchanger in series with the cabin heater.
Dual filters, one for each fuel type to save on contamination of the fuels between the tanks.

I just need to find some banjo fittings and we will be ready to go!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1296.jpg

Diesel goes here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1297.jpg

Oil goes here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1298.jpg

A nice switch in the cabin actuates the pollak valve. Red light for WVO :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/1299.jpg

And we are now WVO powered :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1060.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

from what I found from my conversion on fozzy.

if you dont clean up your oil before you put it in (de water filter AND de acidify) your tank wont last long.

on pure WVO or anything with copher in it you need to preheat the tank as well or the stuff wont flow through the pickup into the pumps.

you need an additional filter/water seperator immediately out of the fuel pick up line of the tank and that needs a large surface area strainer.

the lift pump on a TDI and the series diesel will not shift WVO when the WVO is cold or waxy, a facet pump will shift it slowly, if you put the return next to the pickup in the tank and set up a heater in the circut that the facet pump can use to start warming the fuel you can get a shorter warm up time.

Those plastic 6 way valves dont last long and dont like it when you get all the oil heated up.

[setsuna]

yep, mostly right.

The oil is removed from the fryers at operating temperature, so any water is boiled off prior to pumping it into the drums, during this process it is also filtered (and pumped back into the vat to ‘wash down’ any chunkys). So when I get the oil it is VERY clean, I then cold filter it through a 5micron bag filter.

I have mounted a nice gear pump on the chassis rail down near the tank that will circulate the oil constantly while the ign is on. This preheats the entire tank, melts any high temp melting point oils and removes ALL vacuum on the fuel line/lift pump.

Steel tanks are not good to store oil in, especially in the car for one reason: they grow algae (or something!?) a funny red growth develops where the oil splashes up onto the steel, and is exposed to the air. Good thing the stock tank is plastic. I have used a plastic tank in another car for many years with no issues.

I don’t have any experience with running a pollak up to the temperatures I am with this setup, but time will surely tell! I have a few ideas on heavy a duty replacement I wouldn’t mind trying out :)

David

[HBWC]

they are right the brass polack is better and i would mind looking at your setup closer

[Bazzle218]

I ran WVO in my 300TDI for six months, using a similar set up with nil problems. (A dozy driver then wiped out the vehicle) I used a pollack valve and two after market filters (Delphi) after the heat exchanger. The return line for the WVO was plumbed back into the WVO fuel line on the inlet side, thus circulating the heated oil back into itself. It is recommended to use an oil resistant fuel line its red in color but I can’t recall its proper name. It’s not overly expensive either. I believe rubber will perish over time reacting with the oil. (I will stand corrected)

After much research into filtering the oil I was put onto Green shopping bags. The system was this. The oil was placed into a drum and sat for a few days . A tap was fitted approx 6 inches from the bottom of the drum. 3 shopping bags were placed on inside the other, the tap was then opened and oil ran into the bags and drained out into a 20 liter white bucket. The results were nil visible signs of contaminants. (Don’t shoot me down) The oil was then transferred into the fuel tank. In the six months i drove the vehicle i had to change the fuel filter $5.00 Delphi once. The only other drama i had was that the facet fuel pump had trouble with the cold oil. I drilled out the sintered bronze bush and had no further issues. Numerous additives have been suggested to add to the oil to help it flow , white spirits ect. I used 5 liters of Diesel to 60 lts of oil with nil issues.;)

[setsuna]

Interesting about how you modified the faucett pump, I had tried using one years ago and it had quite a hard time moving any volume of oil even short distances (actually went to try it again last weekend, but the oil had gummed up the pump/diaphragm. so I went with an overkill gear pump)

I had trialled looping the return to the inlet, it certainly seemed an awesome setup, oil is heated to maximum multiple times through the heat exchanger, and only the oil the engine is consuming needs to be replaced and drawn from the tank of cold oil.

Butttttt I had massive problems with bleeding the air from the system, so I decided to go in the pumping direction.

The filtering method you describe is known as ‘upflow’ filtering.
Usually you have multiple drums with the top connected to the bottom of each in the line, so the particulates fall to the bottom of each drum, and each drum is subsequently ‘fed’ the cleanest oil from the top of the previous drum.

The rubber is tolerant to oil but it does become very messy/gummy/sticky and perish after a while.
The lines I am using are of the oil resistant variety :)
Just have to make sure to clean any spilt oil away from the coolant lines as they will survive a fair time with the oil, but certainly make a nasty mess in the long term.

Plus it is nice not to be immediately covered in oil the moment you touch anything in the engine bay!!

I wouldn't mind attending some gatherings over here in Perth once I get some more free time, can have the bonnet up no worries ;)

David

[Blknight.aus]

yep, mostly right.

The oil is removed from the fryers at operating temperature, so any water is boiled off prior to pumping it into the drums, during this process it is also filtered (and pumped back into the vat to ‘wash down’ any chunkys). So when I get the oil it is VERY clean, I then cold filter it through a 5micron bag filter.

I have mounted a nice gear pump on the chassis rail down near the tank that will circulate the oil constantly while the ign is on. This preheats the entire tank, melts any high temp melting point oils and removes ALL vacuum on the fuel line/lift pump.

Steel tanks are not good to store oil in, especially in the car for one reason: they grow algae (or something!?) a funny red growth develops where the oil splashes up onto the steel, and is exposed to the air. Good thing the stock tank is plastic. I have used a plastic tank in another car for many years with no issues.

I don’t have any experience with running a pollak up to the temperatures I am with this setup, but time will surely tell! I have a few ideas on heavy a duty replacement I wouldn’t mind trying out :)

David

my bad I thought you were running the WVO in the steel tank, (I was on interslow and the pics timed out loading)


I ran WVO in my 300TDI for six months, using a similar set up with nil problems. (A dozy driver then wiped out the vehicle) I used a pollack valve and two after market filters (Delphi) after the heat exchanger. The return line for the WVO was plumbed back into the WVO fuel line on the inlet side, thus circulating the heated oil back into itself. It is recommended to use an oil resistant fuel line its red in color but I can’t recall its proper name. It’s not overly expensive either. I believe rubber will perish over time reacting with the oil. (I will stand corrected)



normal fuel hose will eventually let go, there is oil resistant line but it comes in many colours. Hydraulic oil line is about the best but its very expensive.

[chazza]

Top posts chaps! Thank you for sharing :D


I wonder if the fuel hose issue could be partially solved by using the plastic pipe that seems to be popular on Land Rovers such as the Discovery? Does WVO corrode other metals such as copper? If not copper fuel pipes might work.

I am awfully tempted to make my yet-to-be-constructed S3 diesel conversion to run on WVO :)

Cheers Charlie

[roverrescue]

If you are running on dieso for startup to op. temp (say 5 minutes) and shut down say 2 minutes... Then unless you are driving more than say 15 minutes each trip would it not be less hassle to filter your WVO then just add it to the standard tank at say 1:2.

You will still get a 30% diesel use reduction without the hassle?

My thinking is unless Im on a trip I would never travel far enough to switch over. And on a trip you will really only have one tank of "free" fuel.

I have heard that 1:2 (WVO:diesel) is fairly safe in the 300 lump but it was on the interweb... any ideas? Is viscosity the only real problem? Air temp doesnt get below 20 much around these parts?

I can see a simple setup in the shed with stacked drums and green shopping bags!!!

Regards,

Steve

[Blknight.aus]

providing your WVO is clean and water free the tdi should deal with up to 1:1 dino:bio.

Ive run fozzy on 1:4 dino:bio in winter and while a bit harder to start once running and warmed up it was good enough. till the local shops switched over to a copher type grease.

[setsuna]

By "bio' you mean WVO, right? :)
I have blended before, I wouldn't suggest going to the 1:1 extreme.
I think it COULD do 1:1 but it would definitely be a bit on the hard side to start, especially on the cold mornings.

I was adding around 20litres to a tank without much issue (could notice it on the cooler mornings). Definite +1 to BBQ fumes from the tailpipe too =)

I moved away from that as I wanted to ensure no (or as little as possible) oil was left in the injectors to cool and possibly cause problems with carbon, or coking buildup etc.

With the immediate switching of the 6port pollak there is a certain level of contamination anyway - few hundred mls - whatever is in the supply lines and IP.


Another thing, WVO isn’t such a straight forward conversion on these ‘new fangley’ electronic injection diesels. The fuel // viscosity and quality, everything the sensors, and injectors run on – needs to be up to a much tighter spec.

Haven’t heard either way, so can’t comment, but I would be wary.

I would be interested to hear of any results!!
Probably would have to do a better job of heating every drop of oil and the lines, blah blah. Too hard for me; that’s why I opted for the 300tdi over the td5. =)

David

[setsuna]

in other news, EGT and boost/Vac gauges installed. (but not mounted nicely *cough* -- does anyone have any experience with fitting a pillar pod to this vehicle? - the next project to wrap up the conversion)

interesting figures to come.

David

[Blknight.aus]

Ive done a couple but personally I prefer a dashpod unit that goes in the center of the dash its easier.

[Tank]

Quote:"This is a wonderful fuel which runs very nicely, smells nice, and is 100% carbon neutral (unlike bio-diesel)!!"

Setsuna, I am interested in converting my 300TDi Disco, I was wondering if you could explain your quote above, esp. the 100% Carbon Neutral, Regards Frank.

[setsuna]

Well…. quick answer: bio diesel requires ~200ml of ethanol per litre of biodiesel, as well as copious amounts of water to 'wash' the biodiesel.

of course there are methanol recovery, and water recycling procedures and techniques.

Whereas WVO is plant based oil, it is derived from a growing plant -- something that is part of the carbon cycle, unlike carbon that has been long 'locked' into fossil fuels.


David.

[Tank]

Well…. quick answer: bio diesel requires ~200ml of ethanol per litre of biodiesel, as well as copious amounts of water to 'wash' the biodiesel.

of course there are methanol recovery, and water recycling procedures and techniques.

Whereas WVO is plant based oil, it is derived from a growing plant -- something that is part of the carbon cycle, unlike carbon that has been long 'locked' into fossil fuels.


David.
I thought you were saying it is Carbon Neutral once it had been burnt and passed through the combustion process, also there would have been a great deal of fossil fuel burnt to grow that plant, transport and process, Regards Frank.

[HBWC]

not if the truck was running wvo and they used alternite sources for the power

[clean32]

Ok all good but where do you guys get your oil from???

[HBWC]

takeaway shops

[curious4h20]

great thread. great work guys,
wanting to do a two tank veggie system on a disco 300tdi.:)

going to keep both fuels separate until just before the IP so if i have problems with the WVO i can switch back to DINO and change filter or fix things at home.

so diesel as normal up to 3waysolenoid valve(normally open)> vacuum boost gauge before the IP.

another 3waysolenoid to control return fuels to correct tanks

veggie side of things,2nd tank> faucett pump> Heat exchanger> CAV filter> 3waysolenoid value(normally closed, powered to open)> vacuum boost gauge(same one as above)> IP

so now my questions.
1. whilst on veggie mode, would i have to return the diesel to the diesel tank, so i dont stuff the mechanical lift pump ? eg. to stop the lift pump building up pressure as it tries to pump into the back of the closed 3 way solenoid valve.
Would I 'Tee' off the diesel feed line with a solenoid valve before the 3waysolenoid back into the diesel return with another 'Tee'?

2.when putting the heat exchanger in series with the cabin heater would the cabin heater need to be on? just for curiosity as i'm thinking of going parallel with the cabin heater anyway.

3. Setsuna can you remember what is the size of the heater hoses? i have looked for hours on the interweb, and the mechanic i have, doesnt have a clue, so thats why i am asking. want to buy the 'Tee's" and hose before i cut the heater hoses.

4. is the diesel fuel line 6mm?
thanks in advance

[Judo]

I can tell you the Disco TDI heater core flow is always on. Keeping in mind the coolant will (mostly) flow through the path of least resistance, I would be hesitant to put it in parallel in case the resistance of one path is significantly different to the other path. In series you will always get full flow through both.

[setsuna]

3way solenoids will work well, and give you the exact sized fittings for your fuel lines.

Diesel lift pump - not sure but I replaced mine with a faucett which switches off when running on WVO to stop this pressure build up with nowhere for the fuel to go. T piece to the return would indeed solve this issue, but could cause the IP to pull fuel from the return line if there is a problem with delivery in the future. (ie once fuel filter blocks, fuel would be pulled unfiltered from return line).

the cabin heater coolant flows all the time. inline is the best way - get the hot coolant from the head, keep the heater, and have heat exchanger!

I cannot remember the heater line size, 3/4perhaps?, but ill check the spare hoses when I get home.

The diesel supply and return lines are tiny!! 3mm or so? and they are plastic! get a bigger line and slip it over the top of the plastic. beware of blockages when adapting from bigger to smaller lines (just keep these points in mind if you have fuel problems in the future!)

Ive got a few more of those WVO Powered and Carbon Neutral fuel vinyl decals if anyone wants one at a reasonable price :)

[setsuna]

oh yeah, depending on the thickness of your oil one of those faucett pumps may not be able to cope. I would suggest testing it out before installing it. I have tried with faucett and holley fuel pumps which have not satisfied me. (I have a good oil supply at the moment, but want to be capable of taking the thicker oils in the future if need be)

I am sourcing some new gear pumps currently (finally replacing the homebrew temporary solution of 24v printer motor and gear pump!). ill keep you informed on how the research goes.

oh yes, and one more thing about the WVO tanks - Try not to use a steel tank for the WVO. The tanks rust with any moisture in the WVO and creates a nasty red slime that will cause you grief!

[flagg]

Those plastic 6 way valves dont last long and dont like it when you get all the oil heated up.

Is there a better one to use?

[Blknight.aus]

Yes, you can get a metal version of it the problem with the plastic Pollack valve is the oil swells the seals and makes the valve stick. Heating the oil can cause the plastic to distort and then they leak. Internally.

I started messing around with using facet pumps and a single port dual position changeover valve for the return line. A simple switch would turn on whatever tank I wanted as the supply tank And then I manually selected which tano I wanted to return to.
This had the advantage that if the wvo tank was a little thick I could blend some diesel into it on the fly.

Via the modern day equivalent to smoke signals fromsome place other than the cave where my hat hangs.

[curious4h20]

hey flagg

all i can show you is the ones i bought, don’t know if they are any good?, but look similar to others i have seen in WVO online shops?
i guess i be able to tell ya in a year or 2.
at A$34 delivered i thought i would give them a go.
WVO SVO solenoid valve DC12 volt 1/2" NPT-in Pneumatic Parts from Industry & Business on Aliexpress.com (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/WVO-SVO-solenoid-valve-DC12-volt-1-2-NPT/552951586.html)

[curious4h20]

Diesel lift pump - not sure but I replaced mine with a faucett which switches off when running on WVO to stop this pressure build up with nowhere for the fuel to go. T piece to the return would indeed solve this issue, but could cause the IP to pull fuel from the return line if there is a problem with delivery in the future. (ie once fuel filter blocks, fuel would be pulled unfiltered from return line).

I cannot remember the heater line size, 3/4perhaps?, but ill check the spare hoses when I get home.

Ive got a few more of those WVO Powered and Carbon Neutral fuel vinyl decals if anyone wants one at a reasonable price :)

I am sourcing some new gear pumps currently (finally replacing the homebrew temporary solution of 24v printer motor and gear pump!). ill keep you informed on how the research goes


to stop the sucking from the tank through the return line, i thought to put in a small 1/4" solenoid valve, between the 2 Tees which turns on the same time as the veggie is on.

any update on the heater line size? i pulled back the hose a bit and measured the outside of the pipes going into the cabin and got a size of approx. 17.5mm or 11/16". so did you use 3/4"(19mm) coolant hose? if so, i am guessing that the hose clamps stopped the leak through the extra 1.5mm gap?

so how cheap for a sticker? how and where? i guess PM me.

update on the pump, or is this a long term project? its my understanding to keep the pressure output of the pump under 7 psi otherwise it might stuff the injector pump?
was looking at buying,
Facet Universal Electric Fuel Pump 12 Volt 4 6PSI 120LPH Solid State Petrol | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Facet-Universal-Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-Volt-4-6psi-120LPH-Solid-state-Petrol-/121243351461)
not good enough? any better suggestions?

[setsuna]

The Pump I am looking at is located here:
DefenderTuning :: 12v Gear pump Diesel / Vegetable oil 48 l/h (http://www.defendertuning.com.au/12v-gear-pump-diesel-vegetable-oil-48-l-h.html)

it has an adjustable pressure of 5to30psi. The reason I am not using a facet pump is I don’t know how long it will last with the hot oil (I killed 2 stock membrane pumps pumping hot WVO). The faucet test from a few years ago with the thicker oil was barely able to pump it.

Dirk has come back and given me the following pricing for pump orders:
1pump shipping to 6076 $13.40.
2-3pumps 5% discount, free shipping
4-5pumps 10% discount, free shipping

Pollak Valves - I have used one of these plastic valves with the same concerns about longevity. All I can say is that this one has lasted all these years without an issue. The valves listed look like a great option and I would use them if there is a next time!

Coolant lines look to be of two sizes: 5/8 or 19mm and the other looks like its 16mm I used some of the original piping to get the nice contoured shape and then an adapter/joiner.

$10shipped for the sticker sound okay? I have two different types – “Powered by biodiesel carbon neutral fuel” and “WVO Powered”.

[curious4h20]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1060.jpg

have you got any like the one in the picture? with clear background, white or silver writing, it would look good against Niagara Grey:D

[setsuna]

Yep, they are silver Vinyl like the one in the above picture. in the picture they are still adhered to the white backing.

Clean the paintwork, peel the white backing, then attach Vinyl sticker. no 'background' or 'border' just the silver lettering.

[curious4h20]

setsuna
have you received your pump yet, is it pretty?:)

am i correct in reading that you disabled your mechanical lift fuel pump and replaced it with a facet pump?

everyone else

so would i be stuffing the diaphragm in the mechanic lift pump if i don't release the pressure going into the back of the closed 3 way valve whilst in Veggie mode?:confused:
most info i can get is from RAVE, mechanical lift pump driven by the camshaft, pressure 42-55 KPa(6.09-7.975 psi) @1800rpm.

anyone got any recommendations/stories on Walbro FRB-5 Industrial Fuel Pump, 12v, 8-11 psi, 2.3 amps? my concern is the 70 degrees C upper limit

Does the CAV filter have a PSI drop across it? therefore i am asking would i need a pump greater than 7-8 psi to compensate for a drop across the CAV filter?

[Blknight.aus]

No you wouldn't once the get a head of pressure on The outlet they stop and hold in position naturally, the real problems come whe. They operate against a vacuum on the suction side or they get pressure on them on the suction side.

.Yes the cav filters have a pressure drop across them but untill they start to clog at the flow rates the tdi requires it's barely measurable with most simple gauges.

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Forum Runner

[curious4h20]

thanx blknight
good to know i dont have to buy extra valve to try and save the pump diaphragm. will save some room under the bonnet too and extra hassle.



all i can show you is the ones i bought, don’t know if they are any good?, but look similar to others i have seen in WVO online shops?
i guess i be able to tell ya in a year or 2.
at A$34 delivered i thought i would give them a go.
WVO SVO solenoid valve DC12 volt 1/2" NPT-in Pneumatic Parts from Industry & Business on Aliexpress.com (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/WVO-SVO-solenoid-valve-DC12-volt-1-2-NPT/552951586.html)

update so far on these valves.
not installed yet,it took a long time to receive them.
In the advertisement they stated that he would supply info to help install.
they didnt, :mad: so i am flying blind on the ports of the valve. this is new to me. i have contacted them more than 5 times but they will not supply the info promised. also wanted current draw.
2 of the 3 ports have 'N' stamped on them, am i correct in thinking these would be the normally open when no power is present?
how can i work out which port is the common(i dont know the name) port to the IP.
does anyone know of a good site for the above info.:confused:
just will help with planning wvo lines etc under the bonnet.
or do i just try and run water through them and activate the solenoid

indication light is a small LED soldered between 2 contacts in the clear plug

[Blknight.aus]

fit a line to them and breath down it, then switch it over, it'll become clear soon enough.

[curious4h20]

thanx again
never thought of using my breath and blowing through it, me simple lol

so whats your thoughts on using a facet pump for a veggie lift pump?
should i go the 4-6 psi or the 7-10 psi. im leaning towards the 7-10psi because of the cav filter, heat exchanger and other restrictions.

which facet pump did you use in a past post, and how is it going?

[Blknight.aus]

thanx again
never thought of using my breath and blowing through it, me simple lol

so whats your thoughts on using a facet pump for a veggie lift pump?
should i go the 4-6 psi or the 7-10 psi. im leaning towards the 7-10psi because of the cav filter, heat exchanger and other restrictions.

which facet pump did you use in a past post, and how is it going?

the old school square ones.

havent killed one yet. but I never use them to pump raw product, by which I mean stuff that hasnt been at least strained and primary filtered.