Oil on rear brakes

[zer-o5]

Hello all,

I have just become the proud owner of my first Land Rover a 2003 TD5 HSE.

20235

Unfortunately my delight was short lived when today I took it in for its inspection certificate, I was told that the drivers side rear brakes were not working properly and it failed accordingly.

When I got home and inspected the brakes there was oil all over the inside of the disc and caliper which obviously is causing the brake problem. Any ideas what the problem/solution may be, looks like it is coming from the hub but I am no expert !!

Darren.

[slug_burner]

There is an O ring part No FTC4919 that maybe your problem. Should be cheap to replace. Check to see if the bearings are still ok though, unfortunately you have to replace the whole rear wheel hub bearing assembly (with ABS sensor) Part No TAY100050 if your bearings are gone. Dec 2008 Land Rover Enthusiast has a home workshop article on how to go about replacing it. They had the cost of the hub at Stirling 258.

[LandyAndy]

It would be worth contacting member "Bundalene" to see if he has any complete rear D2 diffs.
He wrecks D2s from time to time.May be a cheaper option,especially if you consider the spares you retain in your exsisting diff.
Erich is his name,top bloke to deal with.
GOODLUCK
Andrew

[andymach23]

This sounds like a problem I had. The internal seal in the hub had failed and diff oil was getting inside the hub then being flung onto the brake disc and caliper.

I was advised on here to take the ABS sensor out and if there was diff oil in the hole then that was the problem. I had to get the hub replaced. I got a good used one with the half shaft still attached (rear passanger side) which made it an easy job to swap out.

Cheers, Andy

[Redback]

Hello all,

I have just become the proud owner of my first Land Rover a 2003 TD5 HSE.

20235

Unfortunately my delight was short lived when today I took it in for its inspection certificate, I was told that the drivers side rear brakes were not working properly and it failed accordingly.

When I got home and inspected the brakes there was oil all over the inside of the disc and caliper which obviously is causing the brake problem. Any ideas what the problem/solution may be, looks like it is coming from the hub but I am no expert !!

Darren.

It will be the rear oil seal/O'ring, easy and cheap to fix, PM me if you need a good mechanic to do the job if you can't do it yourself.

Baz.

[BigJon]

It will be the rear oil seal/O'ring, easy and cheap to fix, PM me if you need a good mechanic to do the job if you can't do it yourself.

Baz.

It might be the o ring or it might be the oil seal in the hub.

O ring is easy and cheap repair, if it is the hub seal it is still easy, but not cheap.

[zer-o5]

Thank you all for your help and replies with my dilema. After trying to book in with DPL to have the problem fixed I was told they could not look at it for at least a week so I decided to have a go myself.

Purchased the new O-ring at the huge sum of $2.50 and was on my way.

This was the condition of the disc when removed,
20314

This is the leaking hub which as you can see has a fair bit of rust on it which may be the problem rather than the o-ring but time will tell,
20315

Funny thing was this end of the hub/axle looked brand new and the other (above) looked very second hand,
20316

Now its on to the next problem where the horn goes off at 3.00am in the morning and will not stop until I disconnect battery, have read somewhere that it may be a relay fuse problem, will look at that tomorrow.

Darren.

[mattg]

Hi

I have the same problem. I think the Passenger side was done just before I bought the car but the drivers side has oil on the inside pad.

I see the part number for the o ring but is it possible to use a standard O ring of the correct size?

also does anyone have the part number for the oil seal if I need one of them?

Also any tips on how to get the 32 mm Nut off to remove the Hub? I have tried a 62cm braker bar and a 1/2 inch drive Rattle gun. and it won't budge feels like I am about to brake something and the Bar is bending. Is it a standard thread?

Cheers

Matt

[mattg]

Also MOD the links in the post below my last one don't work. Is this fixable?

Thanks

Matt

[gerry_Canavan]

Matt

you dont need to undo the stake nut to change the o ring, just remove the hub with half shaft still attached.

Wash everything down with degreaser once you have the hub/shaft off, fit and lubricate the oring and reattach hub. (you will need to use the hub bolts to draw the hub back into the recess after fiddling with the shaft/diff line up)

remove disc after 1 and 4 weeks and check for further leaks (in which case you are looking for a new hub)


CUrrent advice is NOT to check the abs sensor unless you are in an operating theatre level of cleanliness.

[mattg]

Matt

you dont need to undo the stake nut to change the o ring, just remove the hub with half shaft still attached.

Wash everything down with degreaser once you have the hub/shaft off, fit and lubricate the oring and reattach hub. (you will need to use the hub bolts to draw the hub back into the recess after fiddling with the shaft/diff line up)

remove disc after 1 and 4 weeks and check for further leaks (in which case you are looking for a new hub)


CUrrent advice is NOT to check the abs sensor unless you are in an operating theatre level of cleanliness.

Thanks Gerry

So how do I remove the Half shafts?

And do I need a genuine o Ring or can I use a standard one off the shelf?

Matt

[mattg]

Worked it out and got an O ring from the bearing joint. Lost about 1 Ltr of Oil from the Diff what should I replace it with? Castrol book says Sytrax 75W and the Penrite one said a 75 Synthetic as well. I have some 80w Mineral oil in the shed would this cause any problems if I used the 80W?

Cheers

Matt

[gerry_Canavan]

I know little about types of oil suitable but haynes does state a 75w/90r gl5 spec for the axles for the disco and thats wot I used!

i'm guiessing you didn't use a manual then for this? in which case you need to be sure you have the correct torque on all the nuts that were undone.

(Tight enough doesn't cut it with the bolts holding the brakes or wheel on! )

also did you knock out the stake in the stake nut, if you did, you will have to remove it and fit a new one :(

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I'd drain it and replace it all,,,

"The Good Oil Forum" is more than handy if you have a question about Oils,,,;)

or anything else,,,,

[mattg]

I know little about types of oil suitable but haynes does state a 75w/90r gl5 spec for the axles for the disco and thats wot I used!

i'm guiessing you didn't use a manual then for this? in which case you need to be sure you have the correct torque on all the nuts that were undone.

(Tight enough doesn't cut it with the bolts holding the brakes or wheel on! )

also did you knock out the stake in the stake nut, if you did, you will have to remove it and fit a new one :(

Good point. anyone know what the torque setting is on the 4 hub bolts.

Also Pedro do you know what the full capacity is for the rear Diff?

Cheers

Matt

[Pedro_The_Swift]

less than 2 litres,,

I put Castrol saf xa in both,,

total overkill,, but hey,,:p

[mattg]

Hi all.

Wheels about to go back on tomorrow I would realy like the torque settings for the 4 Hub retaining bolts can't find them anywhere.

Can someone look this up for me please. I don't have a manual yet.

cheers

Matt

[Fluids]

Hear you go Matt.

100 Nm (74 lbf.ft).

Kev..

[mattg]

Hear you go Matt.

100 Nm (74 lbf.ft).

Kev..

Thanks Kev.

Any chance you could tell me the Brake caliper mounting bolt settings as well?

Cheers

Matt

[Fluids]

Here you go! RAVE says ...

Fit caliper and tighten bolts to 95 Nm (70 lbf.ft).

Kev..