Vibration problems after lift

[thrower78]

I know this has been covered in many other topics over time, but I am getting slightly different vibrations than what I have read about.

After recently installing a 2" lift, which ended up about 60 - 70 mm over the old sagged suspension. I was getting some small vibrations or more reverberations through the body of the car. I put it down to a wheel alignment but that did not help. As I got it alligned and ballanced when I put the new wheels and tyres on.

There are no vibrations through the steering at all. The steering just feels a little vague not as precice as before, is this a caster issue? may just be the new muddies. I only get vibrations at about 5kph while accelerating and 55kph while sitting on that speed, also at almost a dead stop while braking. And I mean only at those speeds at 53kph and 57kph there is nothing. I have put it down to the rubber connection between the rear prop shaft and diff, because at rest it looks a little distorted? Could it be anything else?

Next question. I rang MR automotive to price a new rear coupling they suggested just put another rubber one on as changing to a solid uni is a lot of work. How much would you expect to pay to convert to a uni in the rear. I have seen some kits on ebay for around $350 (unsure of quality).

Help appriciated
Welshy

[spudboy]

If your tyres are all balances. I'm going to start off the voting with Universal Joints....

[Benny_IIA]

I have 2" springs and 20mm spacers in the front.

It had the shakes like michael j fox:wasntme: .

The Steering was also a bit vague

Put Castor Bushes and replaced front prop shaft (had a spare one) becasue the top uni was flogged.

this fixed my problems. :D


ben...

[thrower78]

Yeah the vibrations are much less after I got the alignment and balance, but they are still slightly there. Steering feels perfectly fine just a little light. I was a little annoyed that the dobinson coils that I fitted there were to be a 2" lift, the rear were 50mm raised and the front were 40mm? thats 10mm short now my car has a big nose down look and no where near as much clearence at the front as the back. Also my right front coil keeps popping out of its seat and it is ****ing me off, it looks like the bottom coil seat is sloped down towards the front of the vehicle. So now I assume as soon as I get any articulation it will pop out every time if it does it driving on the road. Arr why can't it be easy.

[roverspec]

I suggest,go back and get the right springs to level the car first. Then get the new caster bushes to match lift so the diff angles are right agian.

That should fix the problem.

carla

[BigJon]

Get the springs how you want them, then get the uni joints done and replace the rear ragjoint with a uni joint.

Then get the swivels slotted to regain your castor angle.

[350RRC]

^^^^^^^^

What Big Jon said. If the vibration is coming from the front propshaft caster correction bushes will only make it worse. Slotting the swivels is the way to go.

With that kind of lift with the nose down a touch you'd have negative caster which makes it tiring to drive because it doesn't want to steer straight by itself.

Slotted swivels will fix this.

cheers, DL

[thrower78]

Yeah the issue with the springs is that when you get a 2" lift off shane from suspesion stuff or direct from dobinson, you get a 50mm rear lifted spring and a 40mm lifted front spring. If you look at the model numbers and go to the dobinson website they don't make a 50mm lifted front coil for a series 1 disco only a 40mm (option of a 45mm but not in the HD spring). I was thinking of a coil spacer on the front to level it up, I might just give shane a call and see what he thinks.

Front coils C51-018
rear coils C51-027V (due to draws, rear bar and long range tank not on yet stil in shed)

http://www.dobinsonsprings.com/pdf/LAND-55.pdf Dobinson catalogue

Welshy

[350RRC]

Sorry, I didn't word previous post as well as I should have...........

For every 1/2" of lift you lose 1 degree of caster (+3 degrees is stock)....... (Thanks HSV Rangie)

So you've probably got slightly negative caster if both ends are lifted 40mm. However with the rsend 10mm higher the swivel pin axis is pointed even further back (looking down) so you'd definitely have negative caster.

cheers, DL

[coops71]

Check radius arm bushes on front axle. My 110 was vibrating due to a combo of warn bushes and wrongly phased unis. Tension on unis which were getting flogged along with front diff being allowed to rotate back and forth with this tension. Noticeable at low speed and around 70kmh. Thought clutch was sticky because of shudder on take off.It was the axle shuddering. New bushes and unis phased properly fixed shudder and brake feel.

[thrower78]

If I have the vehicle off in park and hand brake on should I be able to rotate the front drive shaft forward and back at all. Because on mine I can rotate it a cm or so each way?

You can see in the photo below how nose down the lift is. Made to look worse on one side by the line off the roof. But will level out I hope when I get the extra 150kg + on the back soon

[350RRC]

If I have the vehicle off in park and hand brake on should I be able to rotate the front drive shaft forward and back at all. Because on mine I can rotate it a cm or so each way?

Don't lose sleep over that one. At one end you're taking up all the slack in the splines into the CV's, the CV's themselves, splines on the inboard side of the CV's, splines into the front diff, slop (tolerance :D ) in the diff; at the other end you have the slop in the rear diff which all gets multiplied through the the slop in the splines in the TC, especially through the 'tolerance' in the centre diff.

Sounds pretty reasonable to me. Just drive it.

cheers, DL