condenser problems

[jalacy]

Hi, I own a '55 series 1. Its in good original condition and in every respect runs very well other than the fact that it uses condensers at a ridiculous rate. I have been over the electrics innumerable times and can't find anything wrong. When I do multimeter tests everything is well and truly in normal ranges, It's the same every time, I put in a new condenser, it runs perfectly for a couple of hours, then it starts to run rough until it cuts out, I put in a new condenser, it runs perfectly again etc. etc. The time between new condensers is getting shorter and shorter. I have asked lots of people but nobody has an answer. I'm at my wits end. Does anybody have any ideas?.:(

[Grockle]

Hi, I own a '55 series 1. Its in good original condition and in every respect runs very well other than the fact that it uses condensers at a ridiculous rate. I have been over the electrics innumerable times and can't find anything wrong. When I do multimeter tests everything is well and truly in normal ranges, It's the same every time, I put in a new condenser, it runs perfectly for a couple of hours, then it starts to run rough until it cuts out, I put in a new condenser, it runs perfectly again etc. etc. The time between new condensers is getting shorter and shorter. I have asked lots of people but nobody has an answer. I'm at my wits end. Does anybody have any ideas?.:(

couldn't you fit electronic ign.,I know it's not keeping it original but I'm sure it would more reliable.

[JDNSW]

There is nothing I can think of that would cause condenser failure like that, so I would guess that the real problem is something that is being "fixed" temporarily by the new condenser or the act of fitting it.

I can think of two possibilities. The first is a faulty or incorrect (designed for use with a ballast resistor) coil, that is giving a fault when hot. The second, and in my view more likely, is that the flexible connection between the contact breaker plate and the distributor body is broken or missing, and the messing with the distributor in replacing the condenser gives better contact between the plate and the body but this goes bad after the vacuum advance has moved the plate a few times. Another possibility is a faulty high tension lead between the coil and the distributor that is coming good temporarily when the distributor cap is removed and replaced.

Note that if the condenser is actually failing, the result will be badly burnt points by the time the engine starts to misbehave, and if this is not the case, the condenser is not the problem.

John

[jalacy]

Thanks JD, when I first started trying to fix problem I replaced ballast type coil with direct and I have checked the earth strap in distributor, looks fine. I am thinking about replacing distributor[if I can find a cheap one] and seeing if that does anything. The points are getting badly burnt, I replace them about half as often as condenser.
Cheers
Jalacy

[jalacy]

Thanks Grockle, would rather have it running than original. Whats involved in fitting an
electronic ignition?.

[Grockle]

Thanks Grockle, would rather have it running than original. Whats involved in fitting an
electronic ignition?.

best ask at an auto electrics shop,I can only just about wire a plug jalacy ;)

[jalacy]

I might have cracked it . A member sent me a message saying that the coil might be incorrectly wired. I checked and I think it was, the + was going to the points and it should have been going to switch. I've run her for what I think is long enough for the problem to have occurred and it hasn't. Will give her a good go over the weekend and let you know how it goes.:)

[JDNSW]

Another possible problem could be excessive charging voltage resulting in excessive current draw from the ignition (and a short battery life!) - gives a good spark until something fails.

John

[dennisS1]

Has the Landy been changed to Neg earth? Condenser should last 30 or 40 year at least.
Dennis

[Mooloolah-Paul]

I haven't heard back from Jalacy on his weekend run so we don't know if it is fixed properly yet. But for the benefit of others here's the technical bit. The original Lucas coil was labelled CB for contact breaker and it went to the distributor, and the other terminal was labelled SW for ignition switch. The new Bosch coils are labelled + and - which is a bit silly because polarity doesn't matter. The coil is an autotransformer and what is important is that one terminal is common to both the 12V coil and the 25kV coil (for the spark).

The Lucas terminal labelled CB is the same as the Bosch terminal labelled - and that is the common of the two coils. If the landrover is positive earth, the Bosch coil has to be upside down with - going to the distributor and + going to the -12 volts on the ignition switch. If you don't do it this way you end up with a momentary 25 kV on the condenser (more properly called a capacitor) and it slowly breaks down the internal insulation. Capacitors often wear out and don't just fail suddenly.

Hope this is of use to others, Regards, Paul.

[jalacy]

Gave the old girl a good run over the weekend, running beautifully, no sign of the problem. I can't thank you all enough for your suggestions and advice. Special thanks to Paul for coming up with the answer, you're a star mate, this has been going on since I bought the car 3 years ago!!!, I was about to give up and sell her it was driving me so mad. I'm very happy, thanks once again.:D:D:D

Jalacy