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sykes1
14th November 2009, 03:43 PM
Hi, I am currently restoring a 1968 2a lwb, having removed the petrol tank, i find i have a small hole on the front flat side, the tank has been empty for about 2 years , can this be safely welded, or is it a new tank job,the rest of the tank is in good order, its rusty where it is weathered ,this bus had another tank, but someone had it away before i bought it, and how does the petrol guage work, if i had the 2 tanks ? i have the pipes and a brass tap on the seat box,but empty space,
Cheers

d@rk51d3
14th November 2009, 05:15 PM
Depending on the size of the hole, you could use the petrol tank repair putty, and/or give the inside a splash of redkote.

A new tank will start at around $350 and go upwards.

The military 2a's had a switch on a dash panel along with a map reading light, which switched the gauge from one tank to the other. Not sure about the civvy vehicles though.

JDNSW
14th November 2009, 05:20 PM
As stated for the repair and the military fuel gauge switch - a simple two way switch to use the one gauge with two senders. The optional equipment parts book shows a switch linked to the fuel tap, but I have never seen one in real life.

John

peterg1001
15th November 2009, 05:07 AM
Have a look at my website www.greenacre.biz (http://www.greenacre.biz), there's a good description of repairing a fuel tank on there.

Don't even think about welding, either electric or oxy. The tank is soldered together, and if you apply any heat at all the whole thing will fall apart.

To fix the hole in my tank, I cleaned it up (wire brush on an angle grinder), then put a 1mm steel plate over the hole, secured by Tek screws, with about 5mm of Septone Metal Tech between the tank and the plate.

I sealed the tank with a tank sealer kit from KBS coatings.

The refurbished tank should have another 50 years of life in it now.

Peter

numpty
15th November 2009, 08:50 AM
I used RedKote on our two tanks and it's worked a treat. This stuff will even fill quite large (3mm) holes.

korg20000bc
15th November 2009, 08:15 PM
Don't even think about welding, either electric or oxy. The tank is soldered together, and if you apply any heat at all the whole thing will fall apart.

Peter

You could fill the tank with water and then weld.

d@rk51d3
15th November 2009, 08:42 PM
You could fill the tank with water and then weld.

You then run the risk of getting yourself airborne, as old fuel vapour realeses and ignites.

korg20000bc
15th November 2009, 08:51 PM
I mean't doing it with a washed out and filled tank.

How is fuel vapour released from a water filled tank anyway?

sykes1
15th November 2009, 09:06 PM
is the bracket around the petrol tank, soldered to the tank ?
i am going to attempt to patch this tank, if i can remove the outer bracket

HBWC
15th November 2009, 09:11 PM
use the gas off an ehxust and weld

peterg1001
16th November 2009, 04:45 AM
The outer bracket is also soldered onto the main tank. They can be gotten off - I have a separated tank here. I don't know how you'd do it without risking the solder joints on the tank.

Peter

d@rk51d3
16th November 2009, 06:00 AM
I mean't doing it with a washed out and filled tank.

How is fuel vapour released from a water filled tank anyway?


I know what you mean, but even after washing, there can be traces still left behind in the steel. Then as you start welding, the heat releases it and potentially ignites it.

Just be really carefull is what I'm trying to say.;)

korg20000bc
16th November 2009, 06:42 AM
Be really careful? Mate, I'm with you there.

sykes1
16th November 2009, 05:01 PM
well i managed to get the carrier off the tank, i will try silver solder, then maybe the Red Kote on the inside, well it seams a better proposition than getting airborn ha ha.
Thanks for all the good sugestions, this is one of many i think i will be facing, on my mamouth restoration

numpty
18th November 2009, 10:33 AM
well i managed to get the carrier off the tank, i will try silver solder, then maybe the Red Kote on the inside, well it seams a better proposition than getting airborn ha ha.
Thanks for all the good sugestions, this is one of many i think i will be facing, on my mamouth restoration

You're restoring a mammoth???:o:eek:

You know the rules.

mikesolo
22nd November 2009, 09:08 AM
Hi all

I am also repairing the 10 gallon fuel tank on my 2a, with KBS tank repair kit, It works well.
Does anybody know what size thread the screws are, that hold the fuel level gauge sender and fuel pickup. I need to buy a tap to clean out the thread

Help needed
Mike

UNDEROVER
1st December 2009, 09:02 PM
I repaired a holed 2A tank a while ago, and with the tank removed, washed and flushed several times, then filled with water to a point that it wouldn't interfere with the process, cleaned and dried the area to be fixed, I soldered up the hole and achieved a neat looking job. After a coat of paint, it looked a million bucks and never leaked once in the next 11 years I owned it. I actually did the same (lead filled) on the damaged (pitted) swivel pin housings, sanded it back, put new seals in, and never had a leak for the remainder of the time I owned the vehicle. The method worked for me, but the hole size you can repair is limited.
Just be very cautious/careful/thorough.

123rover50
2nd December 2009, 06:06 AM
well i managed to get the carrier off the tank, i will try silver solder, then maybe the Red Kote on the inside, well it seams a better proposition than getting airborn ha ha.
Thanks for all the good sugestions, this is one of many i think i will be facing, on my mamouth restoration

Why silver solder? Its a lot more expensive than ordinary 50/50 solder and requires more heat