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View Full Version : EAS compressor seal - where to get?



JRoly
15th November 2009, 12:39 PM
Rangie stopped going up and down last week so he sat in disgrace in the street.

Today I did some troubleshooting and then pulled the compressor out

The seal on the piston is buggered.

Where is the best (cheap) place to get a seal or seal kit?

Prefer Melbourne for speed.

John

Hoges
15th November 2009, 01:01 PM
Airbag Man here in Bris Metro (Brendale) AIRBAG MAN | Australia's No. 1 & leading Air Suspension :: Airbags :: Air Springs Specialists (http://www.airbagman.com.au/) had them in stock when I was there the other day. No doubt they could send one o'night xprss post. The piston rings are not cheap...:( good luck!

JRoly
16th November 2009, 11:41 AM
Good thinking.

Air Bag Man only do a kit, $195inc GST for a new piston, seal, sleeve and conrod assembly.

It makes sense to swap all the bits over given the pump was running with a buggered seal for a while.

Ordered one, today.

p38arover
16th November 2009, 12:28 PM
Rover Renovations Range Rover Air Compressor Parts, everything needed to restore your EAS (http://www.rover-renovations.com/Range-Rover-Air-Compressors-and-Parts-s/1.htm)

US$35

JRoly
16th November 2009, 12:32 PM
Rover Renovations Range Rover Air Compressor Parts, everything needed to restore your EAS (http://www.rover-renovations.com/Range-Rover-Air-Compressors-and-Parts-s/1.htm)

US$35

same kit as airbagman supplies :)

given the piston has been running with a buggered seal, it's best to replace the cylinder too at this point.

Also need the RR back on the road so we can take the dog to the beach.

the crab
17th November 2009, 10:50 PM
I found British Four Wheel Drive - Land Rover Parts, Range Rover Parts, Discovery Parts, Freelander Parts, Defender Parts, Accessories & Spares Specialist (http://www.british4wd.com/) the best and cheapest for parts..if it aint listed ring them.. in tassie but post express

JRoly
19th November 2009, 06:58 AM
part arrived yesterday

all assembled so i dont even have to risk damaging the new seal trying to fit it to the piston

15 minute job to swap it over according to the instructions

JRoly
21st November 2009, 01:07 PM
Compressor is rebuilt, installed and working.

however

The air bag man kit didn't fit my compressor in my 1993 classic with some mods.


the big end counter balance weight was slightly too bit to fit through the compressor body and I had to grind a 1mm off each side.

The piston is different and the indent where the screw for the metal air flap was too small.

I had to drill the recess in the piston slightly larger.

Only issue now is that the rangie won't go right down ontop it's bump stops when the down switch is pressed.

It was doing this prior to the rebuild.

I swapped the up and down switches on the loom and it isn't the switch itself.

what other factors would prevent it from going down totally?

All other functions are fine, going up, self leveling, dropping down to std ride from normal etc

Pierre
22nd November 2009, 11:21 AM
AFAIR when the suspension is active (ign on, vehicle in use) the suspension should NOT get to the bump stops but should stop at ACCESS height. The LOWER lamp flashes while this is occurring and remains constantly lit when at this position.

The standard ride height is resumed if the RAISE switch is pressed, OR the inhibit switched on, OR the vehicle is driven off.

If it hits the bump stops, something is very wrong.

And the situation you describe - down to the stops - will probably have been as a result of the compressor fault.

More info? Check the book of knowledge!

Best wishes and glad the EAS is now working.

Pete

JRoly
22nd November 2009, 04:55 PM
sorry, to clarify

it won't go to the down position, it stays at the road height.

i don't get a light on the switch display or the flashing..

it was fine until a month ago when it initially stopped doing to the down position

the compressor seal blowing is unrelated for sure.

LOVEMYRANGIE
26th November 2009, 02:02 AM
Probably a solenoid issue or a switching issue in the valve block. Lift it to max height, roll around the street at about 20 k'hr, press it to go down and see if it responds. Also, try the middle button and see if it reverts to std height.
Also check the inhibit switch under the seat. Its under the drivers seat, RH mount just inside. Easiest way to check if the inhibit is on is to turn on the ignition, open 1 door only and press the courtesy light switch and listen for the pump relay to kick in and out. If you cant hear it, flip the switch the other way and try again.

Cheers

Andrew

PS, what was the number of the kit you got that didnt fit?? Think these are more for the P38 pumps although they say its supposed to suit the classic also.
I am about to do the same to mine as its getting noisy again and keeps giving me "pressure switch on" faults all the time.

JRoly
27th November 2009, 09:21 AM
Probably a solenoid issue or a switching issue in the valve block. Lift it to max height, roll around the street at about 20 k'hr, press it to go down and see if it responds. Also, try the middle button and see if it reverts to std height.
Also check the inhibit switch under the seat. Its under the drivers seat, RH mount just inside. Easiest way to check if the inhibit is on is to turn on the ignition, open 1 door only and press the courtesy light switch and listen for the pump relay to kick in and out. If you cant hear it, flip the switch the other way and try again.

Cheers

Andrew

PS, what was the number of the kit you got that didnt fit?? Think these are more for the P38 pumps although they say its supposed to suit the classic also.
I am about to do the same to mine as its getting noisy again and keeps giving me "pressure switch on" faults all the time.

the middle button makes it revert to std height.

the part number is DRK002