View Full Version : 110 centre diff lock not working?
extreme6.5
16th November 2009, 12:13 PM
G'day all,
I have a 2001 extreme.
Can someone please help me with how to work out if the centre diff lock is working or not?
The dash light doesn't come on and I don't seem to be getting the diff wind up I normally get if CDL is left on while driving on hard surface(for a short period).
I suspect it may not be working, but it hurts my brain trying to figure out how to check this with the vehicle static/jacked up....
Not sure if it's relevent to any test but my landy has a detroit locker in the rear.
Thanks in advance for any advice:)
samuelclarke
16th November 2009, 12:29 PM
I've had the same issue with a new transfer case recently - the most reliable way to test is to drive hard circles on both loose gravel and also a hard surface - if it is engaged you will get windup. Mine wasn't engaging full stop.
It's a fairly easy process to adjust the diff lock lever to get it working...there are three positions it can be turned in: left, centre and right (or 10 o'clock, 12 and about 2 o'clock). The left position is a dummy one (for want of a better term), centre is disengaged and right in engaged. You need to adjust the pivot point on the linkage so that it travels from centre to right and back again. Also the difflock indicator switch sticks and can possibly be stopping it engaging fully if it is too far down.
A couple of helpful links I found when sorting mine out were:
Replacing an LT230 Transfer box - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=14601)
Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq_part_8.html)
Hope that helps! :)
cal415
16th November 2009, 12:30 PM
jack up the rear diff off the ground (both wheels being a locker) and put it in gear and see if it tries to drive off the jack with CDL engaged, if its not locked it will just spin the rear wheels, BTW you should pull the ABS fuse before trying this being a extreme it probobly has ETC.... perhaps your linkages need adjusting or one of the wires of the sensor has come off or it just needs adjusting..
rangieman
16th November 2009, 12:57 PM
jack up the rear diff off the ground (both wheels being a locker) and put it in gear and see if it tries to drive off the jack with CDL engaged, if its not locked it will just spin the rear wheels, BTW you should pull the ABS fuse before trying this being a extreme it probobly has ETC.... perhaps your linkages need adjusting or one of the wires of the sensor has come off or it just needs adjusting..
Being a Extreme the T/C light should come on if its activating as well ;)
Blknight.aus
16th November 2009, 03:11 PM
no, it doesnt, if you lock CDL then only the Cdl light comes on the TC light only comes on with differential wheel speed that needs the TC.
cal415
16th November 2009, 03:56 PM
T/C and ABS lights should come on if you pull the fuse, maybe thats what he is trying to say?
extreme6.5
16th November 2009, 04:36 PM
jack up the rear diff off the ground (both wheels being a locker) and put it in gear and see if it tries to drive off the jack with CDL engaged, if its not locked it will just spin the rear wheels, BTW you should pull the ABS fuse before trying this being a extreme it probobly has ETC.... perhaps your linkages need adjusting or one of the wires of the sensor has come off or it just needs adjusting..
Sounds exciting, thanks for the advice.
What are my chances of doing this test without actually driving my landy off the jack?
I'm guessing driving it off the jack would be a bad thing.....
Do I need to chock the front wheels?:cool:
rangieman
17th November 2009, 12:24 AM
no, it doesnt, if you lock CDL then only the Cdl light comes on the TC light only comes on with differential wheel speed that needs the TC.
I did say if T/C is activating the T/C light will come on;)
Blknight.aus
17th November 2009, 06:43 PM
my bad must have misread it as the TC light will come on when the CDL is locked....
the best test for CDL functionality is this..
jack the whole front axle with the parkbrake on hard and the main gearbox in neutral
grab the front propshaft and turn it.
if you can turn the front propshaft more than say 1/8th of a turn then the cdl is not engaged.
turning the front propshaft slowly while someone works the control will let you see what the linkages external to the box are doing and feel if the diff is trying to lock or not.
extreme6.5
19th November 2009, 10:21 AM
my bad must have misread it as the TC light will come on when the CDL is locked....
the best test for CDL functionality is this..
jack the whole front axle with the parkbrake on hard and the main gearbox in neutral
grab the front propshaft and turn it.
if you can turn the front propshaft more than say 1/8th of a turn then the cdl is not engaged.
turning the front propshaft slowly while someone works the control will let you see what the linkages external to the box are doing and feel if the diff is trying to lock or not.
Thanks Dave and everyone,
I'll give it a go on the weekend and fingers crossed it's a simple fix...
Much appreciated
Geoff:)
LoveMyV8County
20th November 2009, 04:15 PM
The way I tell on my County is to jack one wheel off the ground and put the vehicle in gear. No need to drive it.
If diff lock is not engaged you can spin the wheel by hand.
If it is engaged it won't turn.
Chris
Blknight.aus
20th November 2009, 05:19 PM
unless you have a bindy front diff or a broken axle... then it wont tell you anything... but thats unusual.
extreme6.5
22nd November 2009, 04:35 PM
The way I tell on my County is to jack one wheel off the ground and put the vehicle in gear. No need to drive it.
If diff lock is not engaged you can spin the wheel by hand.
If it is engaged it won't turn.
Chris
OK, So I have the front wheel drivers side off the ground.
With main gearbox in gear the wheel won't spin, no matter what position the diff lock selector is in.
Based on above advice that would mean the CDL lock is in all the time??, but I know it's not as I'm getting no windup....
If I put the main gearbox in nuetral the wheel spins freely, again no matter what position the diff lock selector is in.
Any thoughts please?:(
extreme6.5
22nd November 2009, 06:38 PM
Removed rubber boot and found that selector mechanism was being fouled by some high density rubber which had been put in when engine conversion was done.Ripped that out...
So now, with engine off:
With main gearbox in neutral
-diff lock lever on= elevated front wheel won't turn
-diff lock lever off=elevated front wheel turns freely
If the main box is in gear the elevated wheel won't turn no matter what position the diff lock selector lever is in.
I'm about to head down the beach for a test/play but....
What's the verdict, is that diff lock now in ????:D
Blknight.aus
22nd November 2009, 07:03 PM
diff lock is now working
extreme6.5
22nd November 2009, 11:27 PM
Thanks Dave,
Im back from the beach(no test there, easy going...the EB's went down nicely I must say...wifey drove home) but I remain unconvinced cdl is working.
There is no diff windup on hard surface(I know what this feels like and it's not happening
The dash light re cdl is not coming on.
I'll try jacking up the entire front end next weekend and do the propshaft exercise as suggested, and see how that goes.
I don't think it matters but in case it does my 110 has
-detroit locker in rear
-6.5 chevy diesel in front
-abs/tc not working(not a worry, a trutrac going in front end shortly and that along with rear locker will do me)
-1/1 ratio tfr box
Any comments, suggestions?
Thanks in advance:)
Blknight.aus
23rd November 2009, 05:53 AM
Removed rubber boot and found that selector mechanism was being fouled by some high density rubber which had been put in when engine conversion was done.Ripped that out...
So now, with engine off:
With main gearbox in neutral
-diff lock lever on= elevated front wheel won't turn
-diff lock lever off=elevated front wheel turns freely
If the main box is in gear the elevated wheel won't turn no matter what position the diff lock selector lever is in.
I'm about to head down the beach for a test/play but....
What's the verdict, is that diff lock now in ????:D
thats a text book result for the cdl working.
what was the cdl light doing when you did that.
extreme6.5
23rd November 2009, 06:12 PM
thats a text book result for the cdl working.
what was the cdl light doing when you did that.
CDL light wasn't coming on at all....
:(
extreme6.5
23rd November 2009, 08:37 PM
I've now got the back axle on stands with both rear wheels clear of the ground.:D
Diff lock out, motor running in gear= rear wheels spinning
Diff lock in, motor running in gear = rear wheels spinning, no drive at front.
So I have no drive to the front with diff lock in.
Bit of a grating noise as I try to engage cdl but it's not going in.
What would be best thing to look at first??:o
extreme6.5
23rd November 2009, 09:04 PM
Me again, apologies for running my own question and answer session here but I have found the problem!
Underneath the rubber boot that covers the cdl selector lever is a steel "gasket"(can't think of a better way to describe it) that bolts down onto the top of the tfr case.
The cdl selector lever passes through the square hole on this "gasket" and into the tfr box.
PROBLEM was that the square hole in the "gasket" was much smaller than the hole in the tfr box it bolts down on and was preventing the tfr lever from travelling left and right to the extent it needed to in order to activate cdl.
Thanks all for your help!!:D:D:D
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