A frame ball joint

[DassaW]

Gday guys,

am currently in the process of changing my a frame ball joint on my 97 disco.

A few questions which I know some of you will be able to answer for me.

Do I need to jack the vehicle up to do this? can I not do it with the vehicle at ride height?

What is the best way to undo the bottom nut whihc is closest to the diff, I tried a socket earlier today but it just doesnt quite fit on because of the angle, and I cant get a big shifter on it because the fuel tank is in the way.

I am replacing the whole unit so figure I dont need a press, just undo the old and put the new one in.

any info would be great.

cheers

Darren

[weeds]

from memory a jack under the front of the diff as it will tilt down......umm 4+ years ago i did mine

[Blknight.aus]

support the vehicle on the chassis on jack stands (not totally clear of the ground just get some weight off)

support the front of the diff (I normally use a standard hydraulic jack not a trolly jack) under the flange pinion., its not really needed if you have the front of the vehicle chocked properly with the handbrake locked on hard and the CDL on. but it makes a hell of a difference when it comes to putting it all back together.

[vnx205]

I think I used a ring spanner to undo the nut.

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

The are a mongrel to hit out of the carrier some times , a press would be ideal.

[dmdigital]

The are a mongrel to hit out of the carrier some times , a press would be ideal.
Oh yeah, tell me about it:( Ended up removing the whole a-frame on the Defender and even then it wasn't easy to press out.

That said some of them will just "pop" out... from what I've been told.

Also check the state of the bolts and bushes on the a-frame.

[350RRC]

Hi,

You'll need a ring spanner to undo the nut, as previously posted. If the ball (with the thread) wants to turn with the nut then the tapered seat is a bit worn but see how you go. This can be remedied later.

You won't be able to get the joint out of the mount in situ so undo the two bolts holding the mount between the A frame arms and remove the mount with the joint.

If you haven't done one before the easiest way is to take the mount and new joint to a garage, etc, and get the old one pressed out and new one pressed in using the two little retaining bolts as a guide. Can take over 10 tonnes to get old ones out.

Refit is the reverse. If the nut won't seat the joint securely in the taper in the diff (runs out of thread due to worn taper) just post and it can be sorted with a specific size washer.

cheers, DL

[350RRC]

If anyone is interested I can post the 'American' way of undoing the nut without a spanner and getting the old joint out of the mount without a press, but will take no responsibility for any consequences. :D

cheers, DL

[Blknight.aus]

let me guess...

hammers and gas axes right....

[350RRC]

let me guess...

hammers and gas axes right....

You need an American screwdriver (hammer), the most used screwdriver in the old Sidchrome sets (the big yellow headed flat with the steel shaft running through the handle), a 4" grinder and a jigsaw with a long metal cutting blade or a hacksaw.

To remove the nut: remove the split pin then use the hammer and screwdriver to strike the nut obliquely to loosen it. Discard nut.

Use a jack to pop the ball joint out of the diff taper if stubborn. Remove housing from A frame as per previous post. Remove the two small bolts from the joint.

Carefully ring bark the joint above the flange with the grinder to remove the 'lid'. Remove what's left of the top nylon cup. The ball can be pulled out from the top. Remove what's left of the bottom cup.

Place in a vice and make several small cuts from inside the joint towards the outside with the jigsaw or hacksaw taking care not to cut the housing.
The internal tension will gradually ease in what's left of the joint but be prepared for the jigsaw or hacksaw to grab when it finally lets go. Remains just fall out.

cheers, DL

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

You need an American screwdriver (hammer), the most used screwdriver in the old Sidchrome sets (the big yellow headed flat with the steel shaft running through the handle), a 4" grinder and a jigsaw with a long metal cutting blade or a hacksaw.

To remove the nut: remove the split pin then use the hammer and screwdriver to strike the nut obliquely to loosen it. Discard nut.

Use a jack to pop the ball joint out of the diff taper if stubborn. Remove housing from A frame as per previous post. Remove the two small bolts from the joint.

Carefully ring bark the joint above the flange with the grinder to remove the 'lid'. Remove what's left of the top nylon cup. The ball can be pulled out from the top. Remove what's left of the bottom cup.

Place in a vice and make several small cuts from inside the joint towards the outside with the jigsaw or hacksaw taking care not to cut the housing.
The internal tension will gradually ease in what's left of the joint but be prepared for the jigsaw or hacksaw to grab when it finally lets go. Remains just fall out.

cheers, DL
and refitting is the reverse sequence... sorry I couldn't help myself;)
But how did you fit the new one?

[350RRC]

and refitting is the reverse sequence... sorry I couldn't help myself;)
But how did you fit the new one?

Hey.............. Americans never refit anything, do they? :D

Clean the rust off the inside of the mount with a wire brush, smear with a little grease, sit the joint in the housing up to the 'splines' and insert the two bolts to act as a guide.

I use a of piece of pipe over each side of the joint and a vice to slowly squeeze it into the housing, tightening the bolts as it goes in. Done it this way 3 times now, no probs.

cheers, DL

[DassaW]

Thanks for the info guys,

looks like I need to unbolt it and see how I go with it.

Anyone know off the top off there heads what size that bottom nut is?

I will need to go buy a ring spanner tomorrow.

Do you think it may be harder to undo that nut without the car jacked up so there is more pressure on the ball joint, or shouldnt really matter?

As I havent got axle stands that are high enough for my chasis I will try at normal ride height first.

cheers

[Blknight.aus]

it wont make any difference to the undoing of the nut but it may make some difference in the removal of the joint from the diff housing.. (its basically an oversized tie rod type deal)

[350RRC]

Anyone know off the top off there heads what size that bottom nut is?


You've just reminded me what the weird tap spanner is in my tool box for. It fitted the nut on the previous joint, but doesn't fit the LRA adjustable one I have now. Had to borrow a 'selection' from the local garage to nip it up.

Can't help, but if it's an LRA one give them a call.

cheers, DL

[DassaW]

Ok, managed to get it changed over.

Ended up doing it at ride height, but just used a bottle jack on the diff under the front of it to get the angle of the diff right to extract the ball joint.

I did have to undo the 2 bolts holding the ball joint bracket onto the 2 upper link arms.

Then with that out I managed to tap the ball joint out with a hammer, then I squeezed the new one in by slowly tightening up those two little retaining bolts.

I have decide that while I have it all out, I will replace the bushes in the front of the upper links, so have unbolted them too. Might give them to a mechanic as they look tight.

thanks for the help.

cheers

Darren

[brendanb]

I had to change the "A" Frame ball joint on my 130. With the help of Minniethemoocha we we able to complete the job inside 3 hours.

Steps followed
1. chock front wheels
2. jack up rear of car and place axle stands under the chassis. The wheels were just clear of the ground.
3. Remove the 4 bolts securing the Ball Joint carrier to the diff.
4. Remove the two bolts holding the A frame to the Ball joint carrier
5. Remove the Ball joint Carrier.
6. Remove split pin
7. Remove 2 bolts holding Ball joint in Carrier.
8. Press the old ball joint out with bearing press.
9. Clean up Carrier and apply some anti sieze
10. Press in new ball joint. (make sure retaining plate lines up with carrier.We used some longer bolts to position the ball joint.
11. Replace bolts to secure ball joint to carrier.

Refitting bearing carrier is the reverse of above.

We needed to apply some pressure with a jack to the bottom of diff to get the A frame bolts to align.

21925

21926

[350RRC]

we we able to complete the job inside 3 hours.


Must've had a break for refreshments along the way. :D

cheers, DL

[brendanb]

Cake and cordial

[350RRC]

First one I did would have taken that long and after I'd pretty much destroyed it getting it out of the A-frame carrier I realised it was one of the original adjustable ones. :o :D

Good to see you have a go and win.

cheers, DL

[Discovering NZ]

I was under my truck yesterday and found that my ball joint had about 1 - 2 mm of verticle movement in it - it was slight but noticable. Couple of questions - is this acceptable, and if not, can it be tightened or does it need replaced?
I also have a slight clonking noise coming from the rear of the truck, noticable particilarly on gravel roads and small bumps. My lower shock rubbers are allowing the shock a bit of movement and don't hold the shock in place firmly, i presume the clonking noice is coming from this slack movement?
help appreciated
cheers
Greg

[Tank]

I was under my truck yesterday and found that my ball joint had about 1 - 2 mm of verticle movement in it - it was slight but noticable. Couple of questions - is this acceptable, and if not, can it be tightened or does it need replaced?
I also have a slight clonking noise coming from the rear of the truck, noticable particilarly on gravel roads and small bumps. My lower shock rubbers are allowing the shock a bit of movement and don't hold the shock in place firmly, i presume the clonking noice is coming from this slack movement?
help appreciated
cheers
Greg
Tighten the nuts or replace the bushes on the shocks and see if the sound is still there, if it is then the ball joint may need replacing/adjusting, Regards Frank.

[350RRC]

Do as Frank says first.

Not all joints are adjustable. The ones that are have a big slot across the top which screws in. There will also be a couple of crimps in the top of the sides that hold the slot to prevent the top from unscrewing.

If you have one of these you can knock back the crimps, unscrew the top and remove with the top inside nylon cup, pack with a little grease and screw it back in with the cup. Don't forget to re-crimp the slot when you're happy with the tension.

cheers, DL