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cameron1
25th November 2009, 09:42 PM
Hi All,

I am the proud owner of my first 4WD and it is a 2002 Defender 110 Extreme. I am looking into my options for powering up the TD5 and have done some research and received some advice but wanted to get some feedback on a few options.

I am looking at a high flow exhaust, a larger intercooler and an ECU chip/remap. I can't afford to do them all at once and I am trying to work out what order would be best. One of the reasons for my confusion is that the Land Rover mechanic I have used in Redcliffe has a chip upgrade that sounds good but which upgrade they use depends on the size of intercooler you have.

I was leaning towards the intercooler option first but if it is more expensive than the chip upgrade, I don't want to do the chip then have to change it (and pay more) if I upgrade the intercooler later.

Any advice or thoughts you guys might have on these options or any others I haven't thought of would be appreciated.

Cheers

rangieman
25th November 2009, 09:52 PM
The first and best cost affective mods would be EGR by pass kit and just remove the centre muffler with a straight through pipe and you will be smiling for very little cost , Then the chip and intercooler oh and some silicon hoses i sourced my hoses from the UK for $120 delivered;)

Hi All,

I am the proud owner of my first 4WD and it is a 2002 Defender 110 Extreme. I am looking into my options for powering up the TD5 and have done some research and received some advice but wanted to get some feedback on a few options.

I am looking at a high flow exhaust, a larger intercooler and an ECU chip/remap. I can't afford to do them all at once and I am trying to work out what order would be best. One of the reasons for my confusion is that the Land Rover mechanic I have used in Redcliffe has a chip upgrade that sounds good but which upgrade they use depends on the size of intercooler you have.

I was leaning towards the intercooler option first but if it is more expensive than the chip upgrade, I don't want to do the chip then have to change it (and pay more) if I upgrade the intercooler later.

Any advice or thoughts you guys might have on these options or any others I haven't thought of would be appreciated.

Cheers

Blknight.aus
25th November 2009, 10:36 PM
talk to tombie2

stig0000
25th November 2009, 11:49 PM
talk to tombie2

do you have one of his chips on your td5, and how dose it go,,,

Benny_IIA
25th November 2009, 11:50 PM
talk to tombie2


What he said.:D

It would be M.R automotive at Redcliffe

I think they do a Bruce Davis remap, There are a few people on this forum who were/are unhappy with there remap.

Benny_IIA
25th November 2009, 11:55 PM
do you have one of his chips on your td5, and how dose it go,,,


I do.

Mine has quite a warm ecu :D

Tombie said around 200kw and I do not doubt it, she fries the wheels around the corner and up the street in 2nd and 3rd gear.:D

But it still remains easy to drive with a board band of power, much better than standard less gear chance and the effects of the turbo lag are nowhere near as prominent any more.

ben...

skc
26th November 2009, 01:00 AM
I think they do a Bruce Davis remap, which are known to be undriveable.


Huh?? I have a remap from Bruce in my 90 and couldn't be happier - from 65 to 98kw atw.

Here is the before & after dyno;

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/262.jpg

Benny_IIA
26th November 2009, 11:06 AM
Huh?? I have a remap from Bruce in my 90 and couldn't be happier - from 65 to 98kw atw.

Here is the before & after dyno;

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/262.jpg

"undriveable" was not the right word. (read edit).

There are people on this forum who have been unhappy with there BD upgrade.

skc
26th November 2009, 02:16 PM
Really? What were the issues?

Benny_IIA
26th November 2009, 02:50 PM
Really? What were the issues?

Here's a few


Well, I was gonna get a toombie upgrade at some point, then yesterday out of the blue, BD's assistant phones me up just to check how things are. I asked her if she wanted to know my story or not and so I spilled the beans on what happened before. In short I got an upgrade from him for $800 and the car was blowing balls of smoke, so I took it back and he put a pretty much standard chip back in. So I had about the same chip as before just $800 later, and I felt a bit 'done in' by all of this.
At that point he said all he can do is a intercooler upgrade and air flow meter replacement $2500. Any way, 2 min after I had a chat with his assistant he called me to apologise and offered me a free upgrade on the defender.
Like disco white said, have I not learned... well if he has a good program I may consider it, just doing my homework this time...

Is the autologic good enough?

If I had the $$ I would send it to toombie!





After my experiences with D2TD5 and wife’s VWgolf TDi...




Go to tombie, the service is what completes the whole package, I've heard so many times of people not happy with BD (and I know there are many who are) that are either out of pocket and the car is back to standard or are charged a ton extra to attempt to fix the problem.



As mentioned above there is many different ways to get the program on to the ECU, but it’s the quality and compatibility of the program that’s important. And that is what needs to be corrected if needed.



And read this http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/54340-can-you-remap-bruce-davis-td5-ecus.html

skc
26th November 2009, 03:17 PM
Thanks. Certainly not consistent with my experience. My 90 spends a fair amount of time towing this (with ~300+kw atw more than the 90) on a tandem trailer;

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/250.jpg

Plus, 200ltr of race fuel, tools, 4 spare wheels & tyres etc etc etc. It pulls away strongly and has a very linear power delivery.

Blknight.aus
26th November 2009, 03:31 PM
do you have one of his chips on your td5, and how dose it go,,,

read for yourself


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/50507-proton-energy-pills.html

Benny_IIA
26th November 2009, 03:32 PM
Thanks. Certainly not consistent with my experience. My 90 spends a fair amount of time towing this (with ~300+kw atw more than the 90) on a tandem trailer;

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/250.jpg

Plus, 200ltr of race fuel, tools, 4 spare wheels & tyres etc etc etc. It pulls away strongly and has a very linear power delivery.


That is a very impressive engine bay.

Mind posting some of the specs:angel:.

I personally have never driven/ been in a BD car just read things about them.

Mellow Yellow
26th November 2009, 03:52 PM
I put in an EGR bypass kit and I would do it again but I can't honestly say that I felt any gain in driveability or power. I'd do it again because I can't see any sense in putting exhaust back into the engine.

HOWEVER, I've also got a Tombie2 re-map and the difference in performance was astounding to say the least !!!!!! I tow a trailer and I've gone from Mr Plod to Captain Lightfoot !

For my money, if you are looking for a step-change in performance you can't go past a re-map as a first step. Whatever improvement you get from doing other things will not compare.

[I've now also installed an EGT gauge which is essential once you've re-mapped no matter whose re-map it is.]

skc
26th November 2009, 03:58 PM
That is a very impressive engine bay.
Mind posting some of the specs:angel:.
I personally have never driven/ been in a BD car just read things about them.

Thanks, what's a "BD car"??

Abridged verision of the specs - <1200kg, >400kw atw; 0-100 <3sec, 0-160 <5sec.

PM'd you the details.

Benny_IIA
26th November 2009, 04:29 PM
Thanks, what's a "BD car"??

Abridged verision of the specs - <1200kg, >400kw atw;

PM'd you the details.




Bruce Davis:angel:

skc
26th November 2009, 04:36 PM
Bruce Davis:angel:

Sorry, thought you were referring to the Subbie!

Benny_IIA
26th November 2009, 04:52 PM
Sorry, thought you were referring to the Subbie!


i have been in a few subbie's inc a 22b:D

cameron1
26th November 2009, 08:49 PM
thanks rangieman, is there a particular brand/supplier you would recommend for the EGR bypass kit? That price seems really good for the hoses, is there a website for them?

cameron1
26th November 2009, 10:02 PM
Good tip on the EGT there are a few different gauges etc I want to put in. I'll definitely get in touch with Tombie2

Kelly928
27th November 2009, 08:40 AM
I got mine from here:

SILICONE HOSE KIT DEFENDER TD5 on eBay (end time 29-Nov-09 09:39:11 GMT) (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SILICONE-HOSE-KIT-DEFENDER-TD5_W0QQitemZ110459536457QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item19b7e6c449)

Bout $123 AUD (delivered). Took bout 1-2 weeks for delivery. I am Happy with product.

Kelly

discowhite
27th November 2009, 09:52 AM
I got mine from here:

SILICONE HOSE KIT DEFENDER TD5 on eBay (end time 29-Nov-09 09:39:11 GMT) (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SILICONE-HOSE-KIT-DEFENDER-TD5_W0QQitemZ110459536457QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item19b7e6c449)

Bout $123 AUD. Took bout 1-2 weeks for delivery. I am Happy with product.

Kelly

if you get them from BAS, bell auto service, it will cost you the same but you will get them in under 7days;)

cheers phil

Benny_IIA
27th November 2009, 10:11 AM
if you get them from BAS, bell auto service, it will cost you the same but you will get them in under 7days;)

cheers phil

BAS are £104.50GBP inc postage.

I'm sure they are a great product like the rest of there stuff, but they are not blue:angel:

cameron1
27th November 2009, 11:58 AM
Thanks Kelly, that's awesome

Mellow Yellow
27th November 2009, 09:58 PM
I bought my EGR kit from Nata Enterprises ( www.nata.net.au (http://www.nata.net.au/)) who advertise on this forum. Jan is the guy you deal with at Nata and he's a member of this forum - but I've forgotten his forum name. His kit is as good as anyone else's.

It's worth going to www.td5alive.com (http://www.td5alive.com/) and reading their instructions on fitting their EGR removal kit as there's a bit more to it than meets the eye.
Also, you will need a long 6mm ball head allen key to get the machine screws out of the exhaust manifold (Discowhite gave me that tip). I bought a cheap Kincrome 9 piece metric set off e-Bay that were just the right length (ie not too long and not too short). Using WD40 on the screws an hour before attempting to remove them also helps (Discowhite again).

I also bought a Madman EMS-1 gauge from Nata because it provided a convenient means of monitoring EGT (amongst other things) and alarming when EGT gets too high.

I've set my EMS-1 to alarm at 660 degrees C as my reading on this forum has brought me to the conclusion that EGT should not exceed 680 degrees C. Just as well, as once re-mapped it's not that hard to exceed this 680 degrees C limit without the engine seeming to be working that hard!

Fitting the EGT temperature probe is also something that is relatively simple to do but only after you bend the probe approximately 45 degrees so that it will sit in the right position in the exhaust gas stream. I found that out from reading others' posts in this forum. Search the EGT posts on this forum and take note of those that talk about bending the probe.

On bending the exhaust gas temperature probe, this needs to be done with care so as not to crimp the probe. I found a simple (and cheap) way of achieving this by using two 6mm wire rope thimbles from Bunnings.

Happy to provide more detail if wanted.

discowhite
28th November 2009, 09:08 AM
I bought my EGR kit from Nata Enterprises ( www.nata.net.au (http://www.nata.net.au/)) who advertise on this forum. Jan is the guy you deal with at Nata and he's a member of this forum - but I've forgotten his forum name. His kit is as good as anyone else's.

It's worth going to www.td5alive.com (http://www.td5alive.com/) and reading their instructions on fitting their EGR removal kit as there's a bit more to it than meets the eye.
Also, you will need a long 6mm ball head allen key to get the machine screws out of the exhaust manifold (Discowhite gave me that tip). I bought a cheap Kincrome 9 piece metric set off e-Bay that were just the right length (ie not too long and not too short). Using WD40 on the screws an hour before attempting to remove them also helps (Discowhite again).

I also bought a Madman EMS-1 gauge from Nata because it provided a convenient means of monitoring EGT (amongst other things) and alarming when EGT gets too high.

I've set my EMS-1 to alarm at 660 degrees C as my reading on this forum has brought me to the conclusion that EGT should not exceed 680 degrees C. Just as well, as once re-mapped it's not that hard to exceed this 680 degrees C limit without the engine seeming to be working that hard!

Fitting the EGT temperature probe is also something that is relatively simple to do but only after you bend the probe approximately 45 degrees so that it will sit in the right position in the exhaust gas stream. I found that out from reading others' posts in this forum. Search the EGT posts on this forum and take note of those that talk about bending the probe.

On bending the exhaust gas temperature probe, this needs to be done with care so as not to crimp the probe. I found a simple (and cheap) way of achieving this by using two 6mm wire rope thimbles from Bunnings.

Happy to provide more detail if wanted.

that would be theEntertainer.

cheers phil

cameron1
28th November 2009, 10:07 AM
MelloyYellow, That's great advice, thanks for taking the time. As soon as the minister for finance lets me take a break from the renovation duties I'll be all over the fender