the smell of oil

[phuma]

Running a Disco II 1999 V8 4L. 200000km on the clock. The oil smells very acrid to me? Difficult to say if it may be petrol or combustion product. The oil has only been in the car for 300km...

What should the oil smell like? Just sweet like it smelled when it was in the can?

[Blknight.aus]

take some in for sampling

[phuma]

I did - before. Had fuel dilution of 5 % :-o Changed the oil and had an open t/stat fixed at the same time. Starting to think that may not have been my only problem - will have it CO tested next week to make sure of mixture etc.

Can it overfuel so much as to wash oil of the cylinder walls and also increase my oil consumption massively?

[Blknight.aus]

do a leakdown test and a compression test.

Im guessing your rings are shot.

[phuma]

Sequence of events:
1. Using a bit of oil - manageable; did not even bother me.
2. Car goes in for new plug leads & t/stat. Issues with cooling system and temp gauge starts rising on my way home; I pull off as it goes into red and red light goes on. Back to specialist for radiator clean etc. Only other thing that happened was that they also reset the adaptive values.
3. Car now uses a lot of oil.

?!? Could that one bit of heat have done in the oil rings?

[Blknight.aus]

if it was already using oil (and actually using it not just dropping it) past the rings then its on the cards.

you may find that the rings arent actually shot but they are coked and stuck in one position and not able to do their job.


pull the crankcase vent lines and have a look at whats in them then start it up with the oil filler plug removed and see what comes out.

[justinc]

Sequence of events:
1. Using a bit of oil - manageable; did not even bother me.
2. Car goes in for new plug leads & t/stat. Issues with cooling system and temp gauge starts rising on my way home; I pull off as it goes into red and red light goes on. Back to specialist for radiator clean etc. Only other thing that happened was that they also reset the adaptive values.
3. Car now uses a lot of oil.

?!? Could that one bit of heat have done in the oil rings?

Possibly if the overheat was quite substantial, pistons can shrink after overexpanding, resulting in excessive piston to cylinder wall clearance, causing poor oil control. Overheating can also reduce ring tension, BUT that mostly has a big effect on compression rings first, excess crankcase pressure is then a symptom.

These later Motronic engines run very close to the edge in temps and leanness, the lovely little Rover V8 has never been so unreliable.:(. Bring back a twin SU version Hi Comp 3.5 I say:D, with electronic ignition and decent manifolding.


JC

[mike 90 RR]

If you recon your up for a re-ring job ... and you want to try 1 last thing, to get the oil consumption & motor back under control .....

Dump the fancy Magnatec .....

Fill it up with Gulf Western engine oil / Engine life Extender 25/60
Available at Auto 1 .... costs about $25

Similar to this oil .... as I can't find the product on their web site :confused:
Comp 50 Plus (http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/COMP%2050%20PLUS.html)

I used it @ 220k .... my clock now shows 310k and still going like new....

Mike
:)

[phuma]

Mike - did you run that thick oil only in once, and for how long? Why did you put the thick oil in to start with?

[phuma]

if it was already using oil (and actually using it not just dropping it) past the rings then its on the cards.

you may find that the rings arent actually shot but they are coked and stuck in one position and not able to do their job.


pull the crankcase vent lines and have a look at whats in them then start it up with the oil filler plug removed and see what comes out.

What do you mean with "dropping it"? I have done the filler plug removed trick - if it idles a little of something white comes whisping out. I would not even think it is smoked. If you rev it real hard your hand is sucked into the filler hole. Put the filler cap on, rev it - it does not fly off or anything. Does this tell you something about the state of the rings?

My compression was tested last week; from cold, and dry: all pots at 900kPa, one at 1000kPa, and one at 850kPa. The 850kPa one went up to 1000kPa with the help of some oil put inside. They are more or less the same aren't they? Are there some kind of standard?

[mike 90 RR]

Mike - did you run that thick oil only in once, and for how long? Why did you put the thick oil in to start with?

I've stunned you ..eh :p


First up ... I'm a Penrite luver for oils ... But when I got this ride of mine .. she had about 220 on the clock
Did a oil change and stuck in Penrite, result was consuming a bit of oil, plus the motor didn't seem happy with the mix, ;)


So I tried this oil (Gulf Western / Engine life Extender 25/60) to see what would happen .... What can I say, Turns out that my motor, just loves this mix :D
80.000 k's later ..... No smoke, good oil pressure, no rattles, Performs as new :cool: .... I always run this oil in my ride

You will find that it has additives in it to help compensate for older parts ... and the motor gets better with time /// But it is not a cure for broken parts
As I said, if you recon your up for a rebuild ... this will cost you $25 +oil filter to give it a go




BUT .... If I was to recondition the motor ... I would go back to the Penrite

Mike
:)