New Toy - 1957 107" ute

[Tote]

Well with the cries of "enjoy your bomb collecting" ringing in my ears I headed down to Cootamundra to pick up my new toy. From the brief look I have had at it so far it seems in reasonable condition. Plans are at this stage a tidy up, mechanical overhaul and leaving the 186 in it, we'll see where the adventure takes us.
Havent found out much history about it so far, it came from a scrap yard that had collected it from a property in the Harden area, they did say that someone came in and Identified that they had owned it in Coota, it had the Holden engine in it then.
It's been grey, blue and green, I suspect it was painted green when the six was fitted. Anyway, some pictures.....

Arrived home
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2635.jpg

Are the helper springs original or an addition?
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2643.jpg

According to the VIN decoder its a 1956 107"
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2641.jpg

I'll have to buy a shotgun now ))
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2642.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2638.jpg

Questions for now.......

Are those coilsprings under the back original or aftermarket?
Would the blue colour that is on the side of the seat box and peeling off the roof be original?

More to follow I'm sure, First job is evicting the Redbacks, then figuring out why no brakes and how many bits I need to replace to make them work.

Edit: It's actually a 1956 according to the vin decoder site, I typed the heading wrongly..

Regards,

Tote

[ellard]

Hi there

The coils are an aftermarket addition, and thanks for the pictures.

I see with the Holden Converson, they have moved the front grill further forwards and the headlights on the outer wing.

Most of the conversions I have seen they usually cut the front cross-member - but this is a positive if you ever want to refitt the original engine (no cross-member repairs)

Again thanks for the pictures.

All the best

Wayne

[lrdef110]

Great acquisition Tote. Looks pretty straight regardless of all the coats of paint.

[Tote]

The front crossmember has been cut and is pretty dodgy, I'll have to do something about it if I want to get a blue slip I'd say. Currently my thinking runs along the lines of putting the original one back and moving the radiator back to the correct position. At first look I think I can achieve this if I go with an electric fan and maybe an electric water pump on the 186.

Regards,
Tote

[chazza]

The helper springs are an addition - perhaps it carried very heavy loads once!

Cheers Charlie

[chris1983rangie]

hi tote,

nice find mate, that is a nice LWB landy besides the paint the body looks to be in good sahpe! i did notice the front grill is from the 1948-50 80inch Landys. i wanted to ask that shot of the dash inside the cab, is that hand rail a genuine item back in the day? all the best with your project keep the pics coming! Cheers Chris.;)

[JDNSW]

hi tote,

nice find mate, that is a nice LWB landy besides the paint the body looks to be in good sahpe! i did notice the front grill is from the 1948-50 80inch Landys. i wanted to ask that shot of the dash inside the cab, is that hand rail a genuine item back in the day? all the best with your project keep the pics coming! Cheers Chris.;)

Handrail looks as if it is off an 80" - the handrail on the later Series 1 and 2/2a is the top of the glovebox, which is why it is rolled over.

John

[101RRS]

I see with the Holden Converson, they have moved the front grill further forwards and the headlights on the outer wing.

Most of the conversions I have seen they usually cut the front cross-member - but this is a positive if you ever want to refitt the original engine (no cross-member repairs)

30 years ago I did a holden conversion on an 86 (same front end as this 107). Despite having the conversion kit the holden 161 would not fit in - cause it was for a 88". Even slotting out the front cross member it did not fit and in the end my dad removed the front crossmember completely and welded in a huge lump of 6" x 6" angle iron about 2" further forward. The radiator panel did not work and there was not enough room for the lights - so a new radiator panel was made and the lights moved to the guards. The bonnet was extended 2".

So the mods to your 107 are sort what happened to the early to mid series 1s.

Nothing that cannot be easily reversed if needed or with a little thought cosmetically brought back to what the 107 looked light while still retaining the holden.

Cheers

Garry

[Tote]

Some more questions and some pictures.

After looking carefully at the layers of paint it appears that my vehicle was originally blue with a white roof. The blue paint is under green and a layer of either white primer/undercoat

The passenger's side wing with the white paint scratched to reveal blue underneath.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2655.jpg

It looks like it had a canvas back on it as well. there are pipe supports in the tray and an aluminium frame around the rear of the cab.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2657.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2658.jpg

The blue paint is also on the inside of the engine bay as can be seen in this (blurry) shot.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2659.jpg

I cleaned up the transfer case and park brake this afternoon, there is alloy under all that oil and dirt.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2647.jpg

So my question is who would have ordered a blue series one with a white roof? NSW police? RAAF? or just a different colour for a private order?

Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

Originally it would have been either grey with blue wheels or blue with dark grey wheels.

http://www.landrover.vlothuizen.nl/show/list/1006-1.htm

The Land Rover 4-wheel drive wielbasis 2,72 M. (http://www.landrover.vlothuizen.nl/show/list/9007-1.html)

click on each pic in the link to enlarge

Garry

[Sleepy]

I saw that one on ebay - glad someone here grabbed it. She looks a beaut. I love the blue ones.

Here's some teasers for you. Good Luck + keep us posted!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Tote]

None of those photos look much like the blue colour that this one is. You can see the light blue on the inside which is also inside the tray and the external colour is a royal/navy blue. The only colour underneath the blue is a thin coat of a red/brown paint which I assume is undercoat. You can see it in the scratches on the guard in the pic.
Regards,
Tote

[Sleepy]

Yeah I reckon the photos I posted are a bit off colour. (Too much green)

The blue I have seen is, as you say, more of a greyish blue. Never seen one in real life yet.:angel:

[Tote]

Just found this in a random google search:
REMLR hears that some dark blue 107inch utility body Land-Rovers were used at the R.A.N. Diving Ctr, Port Jackson...
From here: Australian mil Landy fleet info -REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/auinfo-army.html#s1)

Maybe......

Regards,
Tote

[Grockle]

I saw that one on ebay - glad someone here grabbed it. She looks a beaut. I love the blue ones.

Here's some teasers for you. Good Luck + keep us posted!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/14987d1240230878-help-vins-saxp.jpeg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/14986d1240230506-help-vins-series1-107-0013.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/14985d1240230383-help-vins-series1-107-0010.jpg

dor 12/05/54 in Oldham Lancashire.

[LRO53]

Hi Tote,

This is one of the sales brochures from the day.

[Tote]

Ok this afternoon I enlisted some child labour and got some citrus stripper and attacked the passengers side of the tub.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2661.jpg

First coat of stripper took off most of the green paint, leaving the white underneath.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2665.jpg

After the second coat of stipper it is dark blue underneath.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2670.jpg

There seems to be nothing under the blue except a coat of Red oxide primer.

Regards,
Tote

[Scallops]

You're going to have some great fun with her, Tote - and I bet you'll get some pretty special waves once you're done. :)

[Tote]

Yep the plan (at the moment) is to leave the 186 in her, fix the front crossmember and the radiator support panel and run a custom radiator and electric fan which should give me enough clearance so she at least looks original. I'm tossing over in my head the effort of getting the Holden engineered vs finding a 2 litre and getting it working. The 186 is in pretty good condition, no rattles or smoke but I'm looking at at least $500 for an enginneering cert and then it could lead to brake boosters etc, etc depending on the engineers mood on the day. I've been there and done that with my XT ute and it wasnt a pleasant experience meeting the certified engineers around here.
On the other hand how much is it going to cost me to get a 2 litre working and installed?
Oh well I've got plenty of work ahead of me before I need to worry too much:)
Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

If it has been previously registered in NSW with the engine you will not need a certificate.

You can write to the RTA to get a letter of its last registration details - including engine number etc. Cost is about $18. I got one for my 101 and my series 1 88.

Garry

[Sleepy]

I love that blue Tote:ohyes: - hope you repaint it that colour.

I can get some detailed engine bay shots of my "olute" ,if you want - its a 1955 107" with a holden 202/S3 gearbox - I believe the chassis and grill are in original position.

http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/08_050.jpg

[101RRS]

If it has been previously registered in NSW with the engine you will not need a certificate.

You can write to the RTA to get a letter of its last registration details - including engine number etc. Cost is about $18. I got one for my 101 and my series 1 88.

Garry

This is the type of thing you can get.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[StuRR80]

Tote - great to see you saved it from the wreckers!




This is the type of thing you can get.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Series1Form.jpg

I was wondering how we could get the previous registration details of the old trucks and thought the privacy laws would get in the road of a proper history....:mad:

[101RRS]

I was wondering how we could get the previous registration details of the old trucks and thought the privacy laws would get in the road of a proper history....:mad:

The Nanny state of Qld will not give any information at all unless you go 'Freedom of Information'. Note there is no actual "private information" concerning my series 1 in the letter.

I asked for similar information on my 101 which had been registered in Qld - the refused to give me any information at all - yet NSW sent me a letter like the one above giving full rego and other details of my 101.

Garry

[StuRR80]

The Nanny state of Qld will not give any information at all unless you go 'Freedom of Information'. Note there is no actual "private information" concerning my series 1 in the letter.

I asked for similar information on my 101 which had been registered in Qld - the refused to give me any information at all - yet NSW sent me a letter like the one above giving full rego and other details of my 101.

Garry

Ah, gotta love the bureaucracy! At least it keeps someone in a job!! :angel: [bigwhistle]

[Mooloolah-Paul]

I cannot for the life of me imagine what secrets the public servants think they have to protect. Although I haven't lived there for 37 years and things are probably different all English cars used to be registered for the life of the vehicle. Each car had a "logbook" - essentially a title deed - containing, in order, every owner and the address so you knew the full history. Made it hard to steal cars because if you had the logbook and yours was the last name on it, it was yours - no question. It also established the provenance of the vehicle, important for collectors and historians. Thieves had to forge logbooks which was not so easy. That is why so many old Landies in the UK have their original plates, even the ones found way up on the fells. Road tax was a different matter from registration altogether. If we did the same here it would be much easier for restorers.

[EchiDna]

the colour looks a LOT like that of one of the first overland vehicles - http://media.unswpress.com.au/hiresimages/1904955142.jpg

[StuRR80]

I cannot for the life of me imagine what secrets the public servants think they have to protect.

Exactly! Chances are anyone who owned the vehicle originally are either a: dead or b: moved.... especially for Series 1's!

Anyway, back to topic....:angel:

[LRO53]

The Nanny state of Qld will not give any information at all unless you go 'Freedom of Information'. Note there is no actual "private information" concerning my series 1 in the letter.

I asked for similar information on my 101 which had been registered in Qld - the refused to give me any information at all - yet NSW sent me a letter like the one above giving full rego and other details of my 101.

Garry

Queensland does give you the information if you go through the right channels. Problem is that Queensland Transport has a data destruction act that started in around 1980 so everything prior to that has been destroyed.

[Tote]

I emailed the RTA's contact address on Friday and recieved a response back that said something along the lines of apply through FOI, pay up front an we may or may not give you something in return. I'll fill in the form and pay them their $30 and see what happens.......

Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

Tote,

The FOI thing is a furphy - though I appreciate that is what you were told. Did you speak to Wendy McDonald in the Grafton RTA office as she does these herself.

I will see if I can track down the correct form and post the link.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

Ok - just spoke to the relevant area - Wendy is no longer there and I spoke to a Tony Moss who knows all about the process. The number of the Grafton Office is (02) 66049392 and you ask for Tony.

This is the form you use http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/publicationsstatisticsforms/downloads/45070476.pdf but you can simply write a letter. Either is to be faxed to (02) 66402895. The cost is $19.

You must provide all the information you have on your vehicle incl year, model, chassis number, engine number, know rego details etc - as much as you can. Likewise if it was last registered before 1984 there may be no details in the system so you get nothing.

Going through the form
Section 1 - tick own record and then go to Section 5
Section 5 - Your own information - as well as your licence number you need to scan or photo copy your licence and send it in too.
In the other customer information section of Section 5 you need to outline exactly what information you want - usually attach a separate sheet (include your contact telephone number). I usually list all the information on the vehicle you have (as outlined above) - include a copy of your receipt if you have one and ask for all information on the vehicle (such as engine number etc) that the RTA has that does not break privacy rules.
Section 6 - sign etc

Last page - fill out the credit card details - cost is $19.
Normally a copy of your licence and the credit card details is enough to meet POI requirements, but if in doubt ring Tony Moss.

Then Fax and you should get a letter back in a couple of weeks.

Hope this helps

Garry

[Tote]

Thank you Sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar, I'll chase it down tomorrow.:)
Regards,
Tote

[drifter]

Hey Tote

I was one of the guys crawling around it at the Murrumbateman showgrounds when you called in with it.

I'm still jealous!

It's lookin' good.

[Tote]

some more progress and some more questions.....
I seem to have grown an extra crossmember....
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2744.jpg

More paint stripped from the tub, I'm using citrus paint stripper and a Gernie that I got for Xmas, thanks to those who love me :D
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2754.jpg

The tailgate has more paint than anywhere else

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2753.jpg

It looks like there is a single coat of grey underneath the red oxide primer as well, would this be a primer or the original colour? It looks like the taillights that replaced the pork pies predate the blue paint. It will be interesting to see what layers of paint are on the additional crossmember. Also, what would have been underneath the left hand taillight, looks like there has been an oval (Land Rover?) badge with another rectangular one with rounded ends below it.
No signwriting or clues to origin yet though.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2752.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Oh, and I think she will be called Geraldine.........
Not for any particular reason other than to stop the females of the house referring to her as "the bomb"

Regards,
Tote

[JDNSW]

Grey will be the original colour - most of that model were grey in Australia, and there is no undercoat or primer. The extra crossmember will have been added to deal with butchering the front crossmember to fit a Holden engine I expect.

The oval patch will have been a Landrover badge as you surmise, but I have no idea what the rectangular one will be - probably a distributor or dealer plaque is the best guess. Remember that there was no such thing as contact adhesive at that date, so all such things were either bolted on or were transfers on glass, which is a bit short on the rear end of a 107!

John

[ellard]

Hi there

The extra cross member has been fitted due to the holden 6 being a longer engine - and the front radiator shroud being moved forwards.

the extera cross members is to mount the radiator on - well to give it more strength.

The paint stripping method works well - I did the same when doing my S1 Fire Engine.

All the best

Wayne




http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2637.jpg

[lro11]

This is a Qld reg series 1 owned by my brother in law a couple of years ago. It looks like the same blue as yours.

[Tote]

Hi there

The extra cross member has been fitted due to the holden 6 being a longer engine - and the front radiator shroud being moved forwards.

the extera cross members is to mount the radiator on - well to give it more strength.

The paint stripping method works well - I did the same when doing my S1 Fire Engine.

All the best

Wayne

At least the extra crossmember makes me feel happier about the original with the steering relay only being half there :)
I think I'll probably replace the original one eventually and cut the extra one out after fitting a new rad and electric fan.
Regards,
Tote

[ellard]

Hi there Tote

I have never done a holden conversion in a Land Rover, but have seen a few good ones and ugly ones.

They normally slice the original cross front cross member and put in a piece of angle iron (approx 50mm) this gives enough room in front of the holden six for the radiator (using the original engine fan)

Without sounding harsh:


At least the extra crossmember makes me feel happier about the original with the steering relay only being half there

This sounds ugly - but with the extra cross member will give it additional required strength.

Please there is a lot of die hards regarding Holdn sixes - My views just happy to see another old landy on the road - well done and looking forwards to the rebuild reports.

All the best

Wayne

[Tote]

I have another theory on the Navy blue paint, I reckon it may have been an NRMA service truck, this would expliain the two holes in the roof. Not much progress on it though, all my paint stripper got used on a cast iron bed for our youngest;). Have got a lead on another series 1 though, how many do you need before you have to get treatment? Luckily SWMBO just sighs and rolls her eyes. (and mutters about how many bombs are we going to have in the yard)

Regards,
Tote

[Sleepy]

Too many is when you have the one I want;)

I did some googling and couldn't find an NRMA landy however found this 1951 Morris in Blue - does that look like the colour?

Perhaps it had a sign like that on top?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/806.jpg

[Tote]

Had a little expedition on the weekend to pick up an addition to my collection, the norwegan site tells me she is a 1954 86" with a siamese bore 2 litre engine.
The firewall is rusty around the vents and the chassis is a bit rusty at the back.
I got the engine started tonight with a new coil and it seems reasonably healthy, no smoke and settled down to an idle OK.
At this stage it looks like being an engine donor for the 107 and possibly the transmission as well, as it's a lot quieter than the one in the 107.Since it didnt happen without pictures, here's some below :)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2799.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2803.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2804.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[dreamin']

Don't you love driving home with that grille and headlights in the rearvision mirror?

[Grockle]

Too many is when you have the one I want;)

I did some googling and couldn't find an NRMA landy however found this 1951 Morris in Blue - does that look like the colour?

Perhaps it had a sign like that on top?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/806.jpg

as a side note,the model before this J was the Morris PV (parcel van) one fitted with mock body armour to make it look like an armoured security van was used in the film 'Payroll' also a LR 107" wb is used, starring Michael Craig back in 1960 filmed in and around Newcastle upon Tyne.

[Tote]

Ok, after assessing my latest acquisition I have gained the following goodies:
A 1953 build siamese bore 2 litre engine
A gearbox/Transfer case that is waaaay quieter than the one in the 107
A radiator and grille that is correct
A front crossmember that isnt hacked up (although I'll probably use it as a pattern to repair the original; on the 107 I think, rather than cut up a chassis that looks repairable).
A Luxury single piece seatback
Lots of bits and pieces that are missing from the 107

Now for the questions:

Would you go to the trouble of rebuilding a siamese bore engine or would I be better off to try and find a wide bore block and go from there?

Anyone know an engine builder that is competent in Sydney or Canberra

What's a ballpark figure for a rebuild ie Jaguar price or Falcon price :question:

Thanks in advance

Tote

[Tote]

After some mucking about this weekend I've got a much happier 2 litre engine. New plugs, new coil and fitting the plug leads in the correct order makes for a much happier engine. Still a bit of blowby but starts and runs pretty happily. Not too much smoke either. I've got to find a replacement exhaust manifold and there is some coolant weeping from the front of the block near the exhaust manifold as well, looks like a corroded freeze plug.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/th_SDC10844.jpg
Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Spent some time on the 107 today, removed the tray and the cab roof and back. Took off the rediator in preparation to remove the holden motor. Tony is showing me up with all the work he's doing so I figured I'd better post some pictures.

Child Labour at the ready
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2805.jpg

Some work to do on the bottom of the tub
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2809.jpg

Roof off

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2813.jpg

Radiator and home made support panel removed showing the artistry of the front crossmember chop.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2816.jpg

Interestingly the dark blue paint was done before the Holden conversion so I am happy to put the rover motor from the 86 in and keep it blue.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2817.jpg

The next step is to pull the motor and repair the front crossmember.

I'm tempted to put the transfer and gearbox from the 86 in as well as it seems at this stage to be in better shape.

Regards,
Tote

[chris1983rangie]

hey that Engine Sounds pretty good!
thanks for the Vid.
cheers Chris

[Tote]

Our Youngest was sick today so I had to stay home and do babysitting and errm Land Rover duties.
I pulled the engine out after much struggilng with some very dodgy engine mounts. If I had wanted to keep the Holden motor I would have had to redo all the engine mounts anyway as they were decidedly lacking. The Passenger side one only had one loose bolt holding it onto the block which was just as well as I would have needed the angle grinder to get it off.
Anyway, some more pictures below.

Got the Gurney out as well, I love the way those alloy cases come up.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2819.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/?action=view&current=IMG_2819.jpg)


The engine bay minus the 186
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2820.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/?action=view&current=IMG_2820.jpg)

The drivers side mount is OK
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2821.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/?action=view&current=IMG_2821.jpg)

Passengers side not so happy :mad:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/?action=view&current=IMG_2822.jpg)

The sheer artistry in the Holden engine mounts, the nut for the engine mount bolt was in the middle of the triangular shaped bit with varying degrees of access.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2823.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/?action=view&current=IMG_2823.jpg)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2824.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/?action=view&current=IMG_2824.jpg)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2825.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/?action=view&current=IMG_2825.jpg)

Oh, and the piece of tyre sidewall was the rubber engine mount for the passenger side :o

Regards,

Tote

[Lost Landy]

wow looks like you are going at a cracking pace, keep it up :D

[Sleepy]

Love those shiny bits.:D Send that GMH lump back to where it belongs - an old Holden!

[Tote]

Some more work done, removed the guards and cleaned all the "improvements" off the passengers side engine mount.

Guards off

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2833.jpg

A couple of pictures of the remains of the passenger side engine mount.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2834.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2835.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[Mick-Kelly]

Looking good, if you ever decide you want to sell the 80 inch grill on consider my hand up in the air. Its one of the few things i am missing for my old girl.

[Landy Smurf]

i am loving that gearbox if only i could get mine that clean
keep up the good work im liking it:D

[Tote]

Well after a couple of weeks of work and fishing trips I've made some more progress.

I removed the top from the modified front crossmember
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0274.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0275.jpg

And I made and welded in a new passenger's side engine mount.
Before
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2822.jpg

After
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0277.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0276.jpg

Geraldine in the shed and the D3 in the rain, I think it makes perfect sense.....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Regards,
Tote

[Landy Smurf]

getting there keep it up looking good

[easo]

She's looking the goods Tote.

Easo

[iain reed]

looks great well done, oh the joys !!!!

[ellard]

Hi there

A thorn between two roses.........nice


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0280.jpg

All the best

Wayne

[Tote]

Anybody know what an original series 1 key looks like? I found this one wired to the drivers side firewall stay mount today.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0286.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0285.jpg

Windscreen off, wiring out, fuel tank out, almost ready to pull the firewall to get it sandblasted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

And I got my child labourers painting rust converter on the back half of the chassis as well. Cost me 5 dollars in pocket money though ))

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0283.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[Landy Smurf]

i have a key similar to that on my 54 s1 it is for the doors.good to see the kids getting involved even if it cost you $5 lol

[Tote]

Firewall removed yesterday, couldnt psych myself up to get the gurnie out, too cold.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3006.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3005.jpg

Welded up a few extra holes, repaired around the pedal cut outs and loaded in the ute to go to the sandblaster.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3008.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[Landy Smurf]

it will show up a million bucks when painted

[mildred]

it will show up a million bucks when painted


i have just sold my jag/daimler and it was only worth $5.00 more that i paid for it, after a $20K restoration?
Rumour has it that land rovers are worth more.........

[Landy Smurf]

ouch

[Landy Smurf]

tote im loving this thread its great,keep it up
cheers tony

[Tote]

Found a "C" on Saturday....
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3012.jpg


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3013.jpg


Unfortunately nothing else that made more sense. The C was white on the blue layer so I'll see what I turn up on the bottom and on the other door. Maybe it was the Cootamundra NRMA truck. Will ask some questions when I am down there for their swap meet.


Regards,
Tote

[easo]

With any luck, hopefully you'll did up some history on the old girl.

Easo

[Tote]

Found some more signwriting. It would appear that she started life in the employ of a shire council.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3015.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3016.jpg


I make the writing out to be "Shire of Oxley No. 8". Oxley shire was based around Wangaratta and was eventually absorbed into the city of Wangaratta.

Off to do some more research..

Regards,
Tote

[digger]

surely theyd have some photos locally in a historical society or library?

nice to do it up as council truck? Id assume it would be fairly normal/standard except for sign writing and maybe a tool rack or similar on rear...definately worth a look... and is it No.8 or telephone no.8 ?

just wondering==

good job!

[Tote]

Finally got some more time to spend on the old girl today. Some more unholdening work on the front crossmember.

New top half of the crank hole fabricated.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3017.jpg

And welded into place.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3019.jpg

New front top half of the crossmember fabricated and half welded, not particularly happy with the bending job I did but I think it will come up OK after some panel beating. No one open that could bend 2mm sheet on a Sunday.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3020.jpg

From the back

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3021.jpg

Welding finished, I'll tidy it up with the grinder once the extra crossmember is gone.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3022.jpg

From the back. I'll get the second half professionally folded and then weld it in.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3024.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3023.jpg


Good to have some more progress.

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Front crossmember finished and given a squirt of red oxide. Prior to putting the back piece on I gave the inside a good coat of cold gal. Obviously it will have burned off where i have been welding but something in there is better than rust,

From the front, the extra crossmember has been removed

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3047.jpg

From the back, I dont know what that braced bolt hole below the steering relay is for but it was a bugger to reconstruct, they had gas axed half of it away.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3048.jpg

Battery box is next, got a new surround and aircleaner mount from Tony S so I've just got to fix the base.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3049.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Well I set up the Smurf inspired spray booth today and squirted a bit of paint around. Unfortunately I ran out of paint due to a small miscalculation (ie having no idea how much I'd need) But it all seemed to go well. I'm using 3M matt black from Supercheap as the base but I think I'll probably put a gloss black over the top as the final coat.

Geraldine in the "spray booth"
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3275.jpg

The outside of the booth and the inside of the garage. The other cars were moved prior to any painting but it seemed to work pretty well at containing any overspray and there was no wind in the shed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

The end result of a litre of Supercheap's finest......

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3276.jpg

More paint tomorrow, I'm reasonably happy with the progress so far.

Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

It is amazing what a little paint can do to improve the looks of things.

Garry

[Tote]

The end result after spraying with 3M Subframe Black from Supercheap. I decided the matt black was too dull.....
Still have to spray the underside of the rear and inside the back crossmember. I'll do that after pulling the rear axle assy, which comes after rebuilding the front springs and fitting new bushes.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3279.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3280.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[Landy Smurf]

hey i ended up using about 2-3L on mine i like the spray booth its simple and works well.

[Tote]

I used just under 2 litres on the gloss coat, probably another 2-300ml to go when I get the springs off the back.

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Got to spend a day on Geraldine today, Removed the rear springs and finished the chassis painting. Put it back together with some old bolts where the bushes were and wheeled it back to the corner.
Started the motor on the spare 86" and drove her around the back paddock to get her warmed up so I could flush the cooling system. Well worth the looks I got from the tenents in the block of flats over the back fence :twisted:
Tipped a can of Nulon radiator cleaner in and flushed it out with lots of cold water and a blast of air from the compressor into the block drain tap.
The next step is to get the engine going to my satisfaction in the 86" I think, then I'll put it in Geraldine and go from there. I'll need the front springs from the 86 as the ones in Geraldine are broken and have too many leaves from being beefed up in the past. I need to keep both vehicles moveable for as long as possible so I'm reluctant to just pull the 86 apart at this stage.

No Pics today but things don't look much different from the last ones, just a bit more chassis black around.


Regards,
Tote

[Bunge]

Well done Tote, it looks great. Did you do any kind of rust proofing or treatment before the paint? Or was it just sandblast and then paint? Im trying to get the guts to get started on my 1957 109''. Just bought it and its similar to your 'before' pics (even rougher!)

[Tote]

I did give some areas inside the chassis a good spray with cold gal primer. I've found it good for keeping rust at bay on my Falcon ute. Similarly the inside of the front crossmember got a good coat before I welded it up. Apart from that areas that were exposed prior to the black subframe paint going on were done with red oxide primer. I didnt sandblast as I didnt think it necessary. Areas that were stone chipped and rough I cleaned up with a flap disk on my angle grinder prior to painting. I mostly only took it back to the original yellow primer and sprayed the black over the top.
Oh, and welcome aboard.......

Regards,
Tote

[digger]

Looking good Tote,

looks like a new chassis, great repair job!

[chris1983rangie]

goodstuff mate, coming up very well indeed! ;) i noticed the front cross member where your radiator grill panel goes, theres meant to be a tab in the middle just thought id point that out if you want to add it back on there, incase you might of forgotten. this for refernce

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/21.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/22.jpg

cheers Chris

[Tote]

Bugger, missed that tab. Oh well some more welding to be done I guess.
Thank You,
Tote

[Landy Smurf]

coming along nicely tote keep poking at it

[Tote]

Some work on the old girl this afternoon, some questions and observations.

I have removed the engine and box from my donor vehicle a '55 86" over the last couple of days.

Gearbox before cleaning

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3977.jpg

There is a difference in the gearbox mounts between the box that was in Geraldine and the one in the donor 86". From looking at the manual it seems that the series one mounts were constructed with horizontal joins as in the top , rusty, well rooted mount and presumably later series mounts were of the diagonal joint type.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3985.jpg

It seems that the box behind the 186 in Geraldine may be original judging from the number, it was fitted with the later mounts. Unfortunately it is well past it's prime and needs a rebuild after surviving behind the Holden motor. Maybe it will get rebuilt in the future. The transfer and gearbox from the '86 seems to be in pretty good condition in comparison.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3988.jpg

The box in the donor was a later box fitted with the correct mounts. Can anyone tell me what from?

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3986.jpg

Maybe a reconditioning plate on the top of the gearbox from the 86"

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3990.jpg

Can anyone tell me what this modification is for. Is the starter in the donor vehicle from a later model? The cover plate on the firewall has a hole cut in it to allow the modification to poke through.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3987.jpg

Hopefully I'll get the box fitted to Geraldine tomorrow as well as tidying up the engine and fitting it as well. I'm aining to have the drive train installed by the end of the weekend so I can get the bulkhead soda blasted and fitted.

Regards,
Tote

[Lost Landy]

G,day 36106103 No on the gearbox is from a 1953 80" the mod that you asked about is because the bell-housings are different where the starter motor mounts on the 80" as oposed to post 1954 models.

[Tote]

Ahh So it might be prudent to swap the bellhousings. Some more pictures after a "VHT Overhaul" . The engine seems OK so at this point I'll put it all back together and get it running and see where we go from there.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_4000.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_3999.jpg

Looking at that second shot I might need a bit more paint and a bit less beer on the front......


Regards,
Tote

[Landy Smurf]

lol looking great though tote

[Tote]

Wooden Freeze plugs.......

New invention , dont worry about buying those pesky aluminium ones, these will last 20 years** and won't leak too much, look just like the real thing with a coat of paint too.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_4018.jpg


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_4019.jpg

**individual experience may vary

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

I cleaned out the thread this afternoon and fitted one of the aluminium plugs. I used Loctite 567 to seal it and put a cuple of centre punches around the edge to discourage it from unscrewing.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_4032.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_4033.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

After having a year or so of cleaning up a farm we purchased getting in the way of my Series I set myself a goal of getting the firewall sprayed so I could start putting her back together. I had it sandblasted six months or so ago and gave it a coat of cold gal primer. I sprayed the Acrylic on over the last couple of days . Not sure how it will hold up but it looks better than it did.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0072_zpsc5fcc436.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0072_zpsc5fcc436.jpg.html)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0074_zps7280c75b.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0074_zps7280c75b.jpg.html)

Colour matching was done as best we could with an area of the original paint from the seat box lid. The original codes were of no use at all and the standard colours weren't as close as the custom tint ended up being.

Regards,
Tote

Regards,
Tote

[Landy Smurf]

Good work.
What are the plans with it in the near future?

[Tote]

I'd like to get the bits that are hard to take apart sprayed and back on her, Not sure how much time I'll get to do the guards and tub, they might get bolted back on in their multicolour state. Short - medium term I'd like to get her back together and into a shed on the farm where she can do some work duties.
Longer term I'm tossing up the possibility of heritage rego.

Regards,
Tote

[Landy Smurf]

That is how I will do my 107". mechanical rebuild or have it usable and just paint/glavanise the firewall and chassis.
you can always pull panels off later and paint

[dick180641]

Tote,
Government Landys up in PNG were all painted that DARK BLUE, I think some Australian Goverment LandRovers were painted the same colour. (it was even carried over to the first Tojos when they changed over to them)

[Tote]

With reference to the blue paint I have a theory on the history of the old girl but I can't prove much:
Original owner Oxley Shire council, ID painted over original paint on the door. Most likely imported through Melbourne as it does not appear in the Grenville Motors records.
Second owner NRMA as evidenced by Dark blue exterior and light blue interior. Location most likely painted on door top, a longish name starting with C ( Cootamundra, Cabramurra ? )
The NRMA garage fitted the Holden engine which is from an HR by the engine number. When they were finished with it I reckon they gave it a quick coat of green paint on the outside and sold it off.
Was registered in Cootamundra / Harden area as the bloke I bought it from ( a scrappie ) Remembered it driving around

Aside from that I have no more info. The records of the Shire of Oxley are in the National Library, I should get off my bum and spend some time in there doing some research when I get a chance.

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Amazing how good a tiny amount of progress can make you feel. Got home from work tonight and fitted the firewall.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0077_zps6a10f8c7.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0077_zps6a10f8c7.jpg.html)

Regards,
Tote

[Pickles2]

Just read this thread from the start,....a great "journey" Tote.
Keep it coming, Pickles.

[numpty]

Nice work Tote.

Makes me want to get to work on my 107. But first I have to finish the little trailer, retrieve the 88" from Qld and restore the Gunbuggy. :o

[Tote]

OK I want some of whatever they painted these things at the factory with. I decided to clean up the dash panel with the intention of painting it, last night I put a thick coat of citrus stripper on it and left it then gave it another coat today and hosed it off about 5 minutes later.

This is what it looked like before I started:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_2653_zpsbce4e113.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMG_2653_zpsbce4e113.jpg.html)

A coat of blue and a coat of green over the original grey

Here what it looks like now with a bit of a polish:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0085_zpsd16f84ae.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0085_zpsd16f84ae.jpg.html)

I was going to respray it but I reckon it's good enough as it is and it will show what the original colour was. We didn't quite get the colour matching right but I reckon it's close enough.
Whatever they used to paint them originally certainly sticks OK.....

Regards,
Tote

[Summiitt]

Hey Tote,
Is that citrus stripper readily available? My SIIa has been painted with a brush, the wrong green...do you think it would work on it to get it back to it's original color?

[Tote]

Hey Tote,
Is that citrus stripper readily available? My SIIa has been painted with a brush, the wrong green...do you think it would work on it to get it back to it's original color?

I got this lot at the hardware shop at Yass but it all the same as far as I can tell. Citristrip is one of the more popular brands The Flood Company Australia » Stripping Products » citristrip (http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/stripping/citristrip.php)

It is a little slower than the caustic stuff but stays wet longer and you can hose it off. If you look earlier in the thread that's what I was using on the body. It seems to work better on surfaces that you can get horizontal so it doesn't run off. I'd be testing carefully to see how the original paint stands up underneath. Whatever the original grey is it seems mostly unaffected by the stripper as when I did the doors back to bare metal I had to do some serious scraping to get it off.I'm seriously considering doing the seat box with the stripper and seeing how it comes up after the results on the dash.

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Connect wiring to battery, check for big sparks, all OK turn key on... Lights - check, fuel pump - check, ammeter moving in correct direction - check, Dash lights work - check.... absence of smoke - check....... WOO HOOO :D

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0068_zps5e076c0b.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMG_0068_zps5e076c0b.jpg.html)

All the wiring is done for the main harness, power to the coil, generator and fuel pump is running. A good couple of days work I reckon.


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0069_zps4f63da40.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMG_0069_zps4f63da40.jpg.html)



Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

Ian - What is the carb sitting on top of your engine? Doesn't look like a Solex 32.

Garry

[Tote]

Hi garry, its some Poxy Holden Carb.... When I get to it I'm thinking of ordering an Indian solex off the net but it does run... kind of.


Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

There were a couple of questions regarding citristrip a few posts ago. I have been stripping the grill of my 86" parts car and thought I'd post up some pictures of the progress:

After washing off the first application of stripper with the Gerni

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0074_zps42f55065.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMG_0074_zps42f55065.jpg.html)


I then painted another layer of stripper on and left it overnight, this is the result after water blasting

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0075_zps7ec838b7.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMG_0075_zps7ec838b7.jpg.html)

The third application of stripper has just been hosed off after sitting for 6 hours on a warm day

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMG_0076_zps4e15d4a4.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMG_0076_zps4e15d4a4.jpg.html)


By the way who had yellow 86" soft tops? that yellow paint looks too professional to be a "game" lookalike. It's two coats over a primer which is over the gray underneath.

Regards,
Tote

[JDNSW]

Department of Supply, issuing vehicles to several Commonwealth Departments (DCA, National Development etc), had yellow 86s, although all the Departments I can think of got hardtops.

Could have been converted to a soft top after leaving government service.

John

[101RRS]

Hi garry, its some Poxy Holden Carb.... When I get to it I'm thinking of ordering an Indian solex off the net but it does run... kind of.


Regards,
Tote

Like this

Solex 32 PBI 2 Carburettor Land Rover 1948 1958 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Solex-32-PBI-2-Carburettor-Land-Rover-1948-1958-/271407355415?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f31239617)

[Tote]

A bit more work done over the weekend, the bonnet is nearly stripped

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0247_zps9e3e00b7.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0247_zps9e3e00b7.jpg.html)

The Grille is etch primed and I found enough bits to make two headlights as well, they've been painted and are sitting in there to make it look pretty


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0248_zps1a0b69a1.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0248_zps1a0b69a1.jpg.html)


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0249_zpsa6dd47ec.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0249_zpsa6dd47ec.jpg.html)

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

It's almost looking like a Land Rover now :D I packed her up and moved her into another shed as we're off on a holiday for six weeks so the Disco needs to go back in the garage. Bonnet and grille are only in etch primer but it makes her look a little more loved.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0251_zps273dfe84.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0251_zps273dfe84.jpg.html)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP0257_zps922287ef.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP0257_zps922287ef.jpg.html)

Regards,

Tote

[Tote]

Well, after two and a half years I dragged Geraldine out of the shed and have started doing some more work on her. I bought a reproduction Solex and fitted it and she starts and runs sweetly now.
It is possible to get a series one motor to run quite happily on two cylinders, when I first fired her up I had 3 and 4 running but no combustion on the other two cylinders. A bit of head scratching, retiming and rearrangement of ignition leads and she starts and idles without touching the throttle.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP4229.1_zpsycebemhy.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP4229.1_zpsycebemhy.jpg.html)


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP4228.1_zpsqql3sdu0.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP4228.1_zpsqql3sdu0.jpg.html)

The front spring that I pulled off the 86" and re bushed is completely different in the number of leaves and height. I think I may end up getting a new pair of springs if I can't find any at a reasonable price. The original has a broken eye on the front mount.

Regards,
Tote

[JDNSW]

You could try just swapping the top leaf out of the other spring?

John

[Tote]

The spring from the 86 is held together by flat steel sections that have been hammered over the spring pack, how do you dismantle them? A large hammer and cold chisel? although on reflection I guess I could just cut them with an angle grinder. The 107" spring has the bolt type clamps.

Good thought JD, I now have a task for this evening...........

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Top spring removed from the 86" pack

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/Series%201/IMGP4230.1_zpszevx2a2p.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/toteau/media/Series%201/IMGP4230.1_zpszevx2a2p.jpg.html)

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Pushed her back in the shed today, need to get the Defender back under cover. I've done some more though, Fuel tank repainted and fitted,new gaskets on the sender and pickup. as well as new gaskets on inlet and exhaust manifolds.

I'll order some more bits and pieces and have another sprint once Christmas is done.

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

A Year has gone by between extractions from the shed.....
I pulled her out this afternoon and fitted new bushes to the other front spring. I bought the press to do the balljoints on my BF RTV ute but it's just the go for doing the bushes. Changes what used to be 2 hours of cursing to a 10 minute job.

Pushing the old bush out
134689

And the new one in
134690

The Kit
134691

Now, what to do with those Wolf wheels and MTRs that are sitting beside the shed......
134692

Regards,
Tote

[LR1953]

Tote, Noice pics of your '57 107 Ute. Where did you buy the press kit? Looks like a handy thing for any self-respecting home mechanic.

Cheers, Rob S

[Tote]

Ebay, there are a few different flavours if you search for ball joint press, about $60 - $80

10pc Ball Joint Press Service Kit Anchor Pin Press C Frame Brake 4WD 20003006 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pc-Ball-Joint-Press-Service-Kit-Anchor-Pin-Press-C-Frame-Brake-4WD-20003006/182043272370?epid=1262476711&hash=item2a629fe4b2:g:LyUAAOSwZQxW2Lj5)

Regards

Tote

[LR1953]

Thanks Tote,
I'll chase it up. Cheers Rob S

[Tote]

Throttle linkages and Accelerator pedal done this afternoon. What a complicated setup just to get a carby to open. No wonder modern cars went to cables.

134879


Accelerator pedal in place

134880


Regards,
Tote

[B.S.F.]

That "L" bracket next to the pedal appears to be fitted the wrong way around.
.W.

[Tote]

That would make sense, the linkage wouldn't point downhill and move side to side then.

Thanks,
Tote

[JDNSW]

Throttle linkages and Accelerator pedal done this afternoon. What a complicated setup just to get a carby to open. No wonder modern cars went to cables.

134879

Regards,
Tote

Modern cars went to cables when they became (relatively) reliable. The big breakthrough I suspect was Teflon coating, about 1970?

Early throttle cables had short lives and either broke or jammed at the most inconvenient moments. The mechanical linkage is almost always fixable without dealer supplied parts, where the cable is usually special to the particular model, and only available from the dealer (unless it is a common car).

[1950landy]

Do you have the bracket & clamp plate for the choke cable that bolts to the the round lug with threaded hole at top rear of inlet manifold . If not I may have one on my old manifold.

134908

[Tote]

The press got put to use again this arvo - new bushes for the brake and clutch levers.

134952

134956

134954

1950 landy, I dont think my manifold has ever had anything on that stud and I can't find a reference to that bracket in the parts book. Thanks to BSF the throttle rod mount is now the correct way up :TakeABow:


Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Fitted the clutch pedal up today, there is sufficient wear in the linkages that 1 spline adjustment in one direction results in the linkage not letting the clutch engage and one spline adjustment in the other direction means that there is not enough travel to release the clutch. Some new pins on the cross shaft required me thinks.
Getting closer to my goal of being able to drive her back into the storage shed under her own power so that SWMBOs jeep can go back in the garage

Regards,
Tote

[JDNSW]

Remember the pins on the cross shaft are hardened, and if you fit unhardened pins, don't expect them to last very long!

[Tote]

So with SWMBO back after her woolclassing sojurn at Egelabra and the Jeep needing to be back in the shed, tonight I moved Geraldine back into the storage shed under her own power. Fuel supplied from a plastic container on the dash, no brakes (or pedal) but she proceeded with front wheel drive only the 20 meters back to the other shed without issue. I'm happy I achieved my aim of driving her back under her own steam and have made a bit of progress on getting her going.
I found enough hardened pins to do the clutch linkage properly, it's amazing how a little bit of wear makes nearly a whole pedal's worth of travel. there are enough bits I can do without moving her out again to keep up some momentum so when it's not 40 degrees I'll keep going when I can with the work on her.


Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Progress.......

Last weekend to get myself a bit motivated I decided to do some reassembly and put the cab back together, just cleaning up, removing some old seat belts, finding the bolts and cleaning them up and reassembly.

154621

Today I got motivated to tackle the rear suspension bushes, I got all six of them done in about 5 hours which I reckon is pretty good considering how rusty they were. The ball joint press was once more put into action and did an awesome job. I bought it to do the balljoints on my Falcon ute but its just the go for any bush that needs to be pressed on the vehicle.

154622



Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Fitted some new fuel lines from the Series one shop this afternoon

155271

155272

Yes, I know it is the wrong style of fuel pump....

The Aldi pipe bender that I bought a couple of years ago finally got put to some use


Regards,
Tote

[1950landy]

155283You may find you will need to mount the pump on it's side & it should have top or up writen on it to show which way it mounts. There should be a thick rubber washer between the base & the mounting plate to stop the sound of the pump through the bulkhead. The pump will also need a earth . I see you have the earth terminal but can't see any wire connected to it. The outlet faces up with a 90deg elbow.

[Tote]

Thanks for the pic, I was looking for one of those last night. At the moment my priority is to get her mobile so I can make some progress. I'll need to get a correct pump so I can mount it in the right orientation, I don't think the one I have has mounts to bolt it on correctly and uses the clamp around the body instead, it was probably repurposed for something else in the past. I do have the right angle connector though, so I can sort that with the correct pump and outlet hose.
Regards,
Tote

[1950landy]

I think if you take the 2 screws out in the base the holes should match up with the holes in the mounting bracket. I can't remember if they are 1/4 W or BSf bolts though. The rubber is usually about 5mm thick. If you are buying a new pump you will need to make sure it is a low pressure pump ( suction pump) were high pressure pumps are mounted at the fuel tank (push pumps).

[Tote]

Thanks 1950landy, the two screws in the pump were just plugs, the bolts holding the pump on with the other bracket fit in the end housing threads. I've got to get a rubber insulator and the isolators for the bolts now, but it looks better in the correct position.
212557- mounting plate
212558 - Rubber bush x 2

155416



Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Some more progress and decision time. I have been focused on getting bits and pieces back on the vehicle so it is at least a single pile of parts. I fitted the correct radiator I picked up late last year and reformed the support panel from where it had been modified to fit a series 2 unit and did some bits and bobs like refitting the rear tailshaft. I filled the tank with some fuel, dismantled and cleaned the carby and fitted a new set of plugs and cranked her over. The engine runs and does not blow very much smoke, however it does not run on all cylinders and I suspect that that it maybe has burnt valves. Is removing the head the best (only) way to ascertain this or is there another trick? I don't know the history of the engine but the 86 it was in had been used as a paddock basher and presumably was parked when it expired.

My dilemma is that given the sporadic nature of how often I work on Geraldine I don't want to pull the head off and leave her for any length of time disassembled. I do have plenty to do such as putting the tray on etc but any opinions on the likelihood of burnt valves would be welcome.

159137
You can see the wet deposits around the exhaust ports on cyl 2 and 3


159138
Correct radiator fitted

Regards,
Tote

[1950landy]

If it will turn over with the starter motor do a compression test , if you have not got a compression gauge I don't think they are very expensive at the likes of Super Cheap. If you have any burnt out valves there will be a big veneration between the reading's between the cylinders. If it has been sitting for awhile it may pay to put a couple of squirts of oil in each cylinder & leave it sit over night before testing so the rings seal properly.

[JDNSW]

Cranking the engine by hand will rapidly tell you if there is low compression on one or more cylinders that would be the case if an exhaust valve is leaking badly enough to cause misfiring. More definitively, do this with the exhaust pipe disconnected and crank slowly while listening to the exhaust.

And probably worth checking both exhaust and inlet valve clearance as well. If you have very uneven compression without hissing at either exhaus or inlet manifolds then you almost certainly are going to have to pull the head off, and expect rings and bearings at the least. Which can be done in the vehicle - I have done it.

But, in the end, the most likely cause of very uneven compression on this engine is burnt exhaust valves.

[Tote]

Thanks JD, you've pretty much described my symptoms. I'm pretty sure that I did check the valve clearances and they were mostly OK. I'll continue with the bits that I can do and schedule the head work so it can be done within a reasonable time frame.

Regards,
Tote

[JDNSW]

Actually, another point about misfiring - take the distributor cap off and have a good look for cracks. Also, inlet manifold leaks can result in misfiring.

[Tote]

OK, back to the drawing board, I found this video of it running in the 88", It may not be burnt valves after all.


https://youtu.be/9HjW0gqgnMo


Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

I'm a bit silly, rotor goes counterclockwise......[bawl] makes a difference to the plug lead wiring.

Regards,
Tote

[JDNSW]

I'm amazed it started!

[Tote]

I'm amazed it started!

Got it running this afternoon, now to delve into the mysteries of Solex knock off carbies. It wont run at idle or much under 1500RPM unless the cold start is on. I've pulled the carby to bits , cleaned it and blown it out. Any ideas on which circuit isn't working?


https://youtu.be/sXGhy_MTDhY


Regards,
Tote

[JDNSW]

The issue is probably a vacuum leak, but could be incorrect idling mixture adjustment, or a blocked passage in the carburettor related to this. Barely possible is too low a float level.
Any leak in the manifold to head or manifold to carburettor, or the vacuum advance system will have a much greater effect at idling compared to running because there is a high vacuum, so more air is sucked in, and because there is only a small amount of mixture going to the engine, it doesn't take much extra air to really upset the mixture.
I hope this helps.

[Tote]

Some more troubleshooting this afternoon, dismantled and blew out the carb again, tightened the inlet manifold bolts and checked the timing. The engine now starts every time with no throttle and the cold start on. As soon as the cold start is closed it won't run at low revs and backfires through the carb. Aside from the high idle on the cold start you could drive it. There is scant information on these repro carbies anywhere unfortunately and they are a little bit different in that they don't have the speed jet assembly associated with the accelerator pump. I'm not sure if I have a dodgy carby or there is still an issue that I haven't addressed.


Regards,
Tote

[B.S.F.]

Is there a vacuum tube between the carby and the dizzy? A bit hard to see with my failing eye sight.
.W.

[Tote]

Is there a vacuum tube between the carby and the dizzy? A bit hard to see with my failing eye sight.
.W.

Nope, the fitting is missing from the carb(which hardly inspires me with confidence) but I do have a bolt in the carb blocking the vacuum port.

Regards,
Tote

[B.S.F.]

Is the throttle butterfly disc fitted the correct way ? The sides of the disc are bevelled.so that when closed the disc lays flat against the sides, and closes the barrel.
.W.

[Tote]

Leaving the carby for now, I'm putting the feelers out for a Solex but still annoyed that I paid $300 for a dud "new" carby.

Pulled the master cylinder and cleaned it up the other day, should only need a kit. cleaned up and refitted the handbrake this evening but the relay needs a new bush. I suspect the relay on my parts 86 is in better shape so I'll clean it up and see how it goes.

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Fitted the fuel pump properly on Monday after my mounting blocks turned up from the Series one club via the slow boat. Hopefully my new water pump will show up this week and I can get it fitted as well. The outlet pipe is just there in case there is any crap in the tank, I've got the correct pipe to fit when I'm ready.

161516

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Well, the water pump showed up and I quickly figured that there's a broken bolt in one of the holes ( the one above the brass water diverter). 1/4 BSF tap on order along with the correct fibre washers for the thermostat, a thermostat to block gasket and the copper ring and o ring. More planning on my behalf when ordering bits would be an advantage.....


161535

Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

Tote - are you supposedly working from home [thumbsupbig].

[Tote]

Every second week [biggrin]

Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

I expect value from my tax dollars that pay your wages [thumbsupbig]

Its good that you are finally getting on with the project [smilebigeye] - hopefully we will see it on a run before too long.

Garry

[Tote]

Water pump fitted and put back together. I don't know if it will hold water yet though. The mating point on the bottom of the thermostat housing is pretty corroded.

161969

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Solex fettlng. I bit the bullet and bought a second hand solex and a full overhaul kit to prove or disprove whether the Indian Solex I bought is no good or I have other issues.

164764

All in little pieces, the throttle shaft has no play and I'm not going to replace it so I have a spare sitting in my bits pile.

The problems I do have are a broken gland nut on the vacuum advance line, a missing screw for the top cover and a very worn accelerator pump linkage where the pivot is inside the alloy housing. The carby cleaned up pretty nicely and all the surfaces were nice and straight when I gave them a bit of a rub with wet and dry on a piece of glass. My farm mechanics teacher from 1981 would be proud that the stuff he taught me is being put to use 40 years later....

A bit of time with a 4mm drill and an easy out resulted in the removal of the vacuum advance pipe with no damage to the carburettor body, the screw threads for the top plate are 5mm metric so a suitable relacement was fitted. Aside from that it was just a matter of cleaning, fitting new gaskets and pump membranes and setting up the accelerator pump as best as possible given the wear in the pump pivot.

164765


164766

The 5mm rack screw is in the vacuum advance port for now, I'm really pleased I got the remains of the old nut and gland out without damage.
164767


164768

I doubt that the top plate is the mate for the carby but aside from a bit of damage where someone has over tightened the hose clamp on the top it will do for now. Maybe tomorrow I'll get a chance to fit it and see how it goes.

Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

Fitted the new carb up tonight - same symptoms (but at least I have a genuine Solex I guess).

164851

I did find that the carby had two spacers under the carb for reasons unknown. I removed one and fitted a new gasket and that improved things a little bit but it still won't run at low revs without the cold start on.

OK brains trust , where to now? My next guess is that the inlet manifold is leaking air and its a case of pull it off, silicone it and try that, I've had similar problems with the valley covers on a 351 so I suppose it's worth a shot.


Regards,
Tote

[Tote]

The cooling system also seems to be watertight, I filled it up with some coolant I had lying around the other night before I decided that I'd need to remove the manifold to silicone it - Doh.... Oh well its easy enough to drain it from the block into a bucket so I can use it again.


Regards,
Tote

[LR1953]

Tote,
The parts catalogue says there are "joint washers" between the manifold and the head. Are they present on your engine? If not can you "make up" with gasket paper or similar?
Cheers Rob S

[Tote]

There are paper gaskets between the manifold and the block, I suspect that maybe the manifold is a little warped and not sealing as it should.

Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

You're supposed to be working from home not playing with your series 1 [thumbsupbig].

[Tote]

You're supposed to be working from home not playing with your series 1 [thumbsupbig].

Nah, I've been back at work for a couple of months now. Warmer weather is conducive to doing stuff in the shed after work.

Regards,
Tote