Disabling D2 Traction Control

[CJT]

After a trip up through lots of soft sand and a long gradual climb that the traction control was intent on burying the car on I have come to the following conclusions.

1. I need to get the centre diff lock parts and actuator from Ashcroft.

2. I would like to place a switch in the car to disable the traction control when I choose.

Does anyone know if this can be done or has done it themselves?

I was thinking just a toggle switch in the dash or wire it up to one of the blank switch locations beside the steering wheel.

[wardy1]

Firstly, get the centre diff lock. It transformed my D2 in all situations. Secondly, once you have the CDL, if you start the car with it engaged, you will automatically disengage the traction control and abs. Just remember to restart the car when you get back onto the blacktop so that you have re-activated the abs....pretty important for your, and your familys safety!
I actually find that the combination of the CDL and TC works extremely well so maybe try things before you just ignore the benefits that TC can give you.

It is ILLEGAL to have any switch which disconnects the ABS (which also drives the TC). Your insurance will be void if you do this!

[CJT]

Wardy1

Thanks for the info.

So my understanding of your reply is.

1. If I engage CDL with car running, both CDL and traction control are active.

2. If I turn off car, engage CDL and restart, CDL is active and traction control is inactive.

The long climb in the soft sand was the only time that I have been disapointed with my D2, if the CDL is the answer then I will have to spend the money.

The only way I got up was with a big run-up and lots of power.

I am looking at around $2000 though to purchase and install the CDL in mine as it is the only model with the spigot etc. removed.

I was told I can get a reconditioned transfer case for about the same money with the CDL spigot.

[Tombie]

What tyre pressure were you running?

Makes a *huge* difference with TC

[CJT]

It should have been around 18-20psi but I think it ended up lower, long story as to why this happened.

I have the 18" factory alloys so was a bit worried about low pressures.

Does anyone have a recommended pressure to use with the 18" rims and 255/55 tyres?

Or with those are you better of leaving them at standard pressure, Land Rover recommend 28psi front and 38psi rear.

[porgey]

I just bought a good second hand CDL Lever kit for my 99 D3 Td5 a bit pricey i thought at $1,178.00 all up with Freight & GST . But have been looking since last year . Cheers George

[wardy1]

Hi CJT, yes, your interpretation is correct:D

Try calling Fred Smith Auto (9720 4999) re a transfer case and linkages. I got mine from him (2nd hand) for about $1100. He is a LR specialist and would fit it all for you as well if req. There is a bit of info about him somewhere on this forum, basically, what he doesn't know about LR's isn't worth knowing.

[Jedimastermat]

I find driving along and waiting for the modulator to send the three amigos dis engages the traction control :p

dont have to wait too long and bingo :wasntme:

I do have to make the effort to get that fixed :angel:

[Redback]

I find driving along and waiting for the modulator to send the three amigos dis engages the traction control :p

dont have to wait too long and bingo :wasntme:

I do have to make the effort to get that fixed :angel:

This is false, even with the 3 amigoes the TC ABS HD will still work, unless it's a complete Modulator failure.

Baz.

[Urban Panzer]

This is false, even with the 3 amigoes the TC ABS HD will still work, unless it's a complete Modulator failure.

Baz.

Uh uh, thats false to, "if" the TC light is on it is 100% disabled......the ABS and HDC will still work but at "reduced" parameters, this is the same for the 3 amigos OR engaging difflock and starting the car, infact it's not 100% correct ref the 3 little buggers as there is ONLY 1 fault that still allows ABS function and that is "shuttle valve electrical failure" , all others faults shutdown the ABS 100%

[Redback]

Uh uh, thats false to, "if" the TC light is on it is 100% disabled......the ABS and HDC will still work but at "reduced" parameters, this is the same for the 3 amigos OR engaging difflock and starting the car, infact it's not 100% correct ref the 3 little buggers as there is ONLY 1 fault that still allows ABS function and that is "shuttle valve electrical failure" , all others faults shutdown the ABS 100%

Funny that because I've had all 3 lights on and the TC and ABS still worked, I had the codes checked and I had a right rear sensor failure, this was in 05 in the vic high country, I know the ABS was working because I had to jump on the brakes to avoid a Kangaroo, also the countless times climbing long steep loose dirt hills listening to the modulator growling away, it's not a sound you can mistake.

I'm pretty sure you'll find if you have one sensor failure and you get the 3 amigoes the rest of the system will still work, different if you disable the TC/ABS/HD, then nothing works.

Baz.

[Urban Panzer]

Very strange that Baz.......:mellow:

There is actually no way to "disable" the ABS, it either works or it dont due to a particular fault..
because people see the "lights" when retro fitting a CDL and "not" cutting the SLABS feed they naturally "assume" they are all off, but It's not the case


Vehicles up to 03 model year – At speeds between 0 and 62.5 mph (0 and 100 km/h), ETC also uses brake
intervention in axle pairs to maintain even torque distribution between the front and rear axles. In effect, this mode
of operation replaces the centre differential lock of the transfer box which, although still incorporated, is non
operational under normal driving conditions.
If the centre differential
lock is in the locked condition, the SLABS ECU illuminates the ABS and ETC warning lamps and inhibits the ETC
function (the ABS, EBD and HDC functions are retained, but at degraded performance levels).


So in a nutshell, if you retro fit a CDL and put a switch in the SLABS feed, then you can have a choice of TC + CDL (my vote) or just the CDL as the TC is the only one fully inhibited

[2 rocks]

I just bought a good second hand CDL Lever kit for my 99 D3 Td5 a bit pricey i thought at $1,178.00 all up with Freight & GST . But have been looking since last year . Cheers George

George
Do you mean a CDL lever/linkage and internals... or just the lever & linkage? :eek:
Cheers
Mike

[Redback]

Very strange that Baz.......:mellow:

There is actually no way to "disable" the ABS, it either works or it dont due to a particular fault..
because people see the "lights" when retro fitting a CDL and "not" cutting the SLABS feed they naturally "assume" they are all off, but It's not the case


So in a nutshell, if you retro fit a CDL and put a switch in the SLABS feed, then you can have a choice of TC + CDL (my vote) or just the CDL as the TC is the only one fully inhibited

Yes this gets my vote too, I have the early D2, I fitted a D2a CDL to mine, I haven't cut that wire, one reason is that it sometimes doesn't work, the other reason was I wanted the ability to be able the disable the TC, but over the years I have grown very fond of the ABS and TC.

I'm fitting a NNN prefix ECU as soon as I get it re-mapped, it will be interesting to see if the new ECU recognises the CDL and doesn't disable TC, HD and ABS when I turn the ignition off with it engaged.

Baz.

[Jedimastermat]

sorry Gents just mucking around.
The modulator is buggered in my case, no problem with the sensors.
Just a tad slow in getting it done.
mat