Welding to a Chassis

[disco_thrasher]

I am going to be welding my rear slider bars from behind the back wheels to the steel rear bar ,i have cross bars going to the chassis for extra strength , i am going to be spot welding a 5mm plate to the chassis then welding 3mm scaffold tube to that which has being welded up all ready ,this ultimately will give me a rear quater cut rock slider.
my concerns are by welding to the chassis could this cause havoc to any electrics/computors ???:o
i obviesouly wil be disconecting my batteries and my ecu and slabs which are located behind the glove box, is there anything i need to be concerned about any info will be appreciated.

cheers Kelvin

[Tombie]

No need to disconnect anything...

Just put "anti-zaps" on the batteries and make sure the good earth is very near the welding site.

[DeeJay]

I'd be finding out where the wiring runs to the rear lights. On a County / Defender the loom is inside the chassis. If it gets too hot it will catch fire, so I'd be doing 25mm runs then lightly quenching.

[disco_thrasher]

No need to disconnect anything...

Just put "anti-zaps" on the batteries and make sure the good earth is very near the welding site.

ah sweet that makes it easier ,i dont have any anti-zaps by disconnecting the battery would that serve the same purpose

[langy]

The 'anti-zap' is a voltage spike suppressor - usually found in shops near where jumper leads are sold. Just disconnecting batteries won't do anything to protect the electronics. 9 times out of ten you can get by without the anti-zap, but it's a risk.

If you have a set of recent jumper leads, it should have a voltage spike suppressor feature - that will work. If not, upgrade your jumper leads with a anti spike device at the same time.

[long stroke]

I welded brackets for the rearbar wing protector supports to the chassis on my d1, no probs:)....

CHEERS TIM.

[windsock]

I'd be finding out where the wiring runs to the rear lights. On a County / Defender the loom is inside the chassis. If it gets too hot it will catch fire, so I'd be doing 25mm runs then lightly quenching.

I second that one. The previous owner of my truck used a gas torch to fix some chassis cracking and had the loom alight inside the chassis by the looks of the mess I discovered once it was mine.

I now run the wires in a plastic water pipe along the top of the chassis no worries.

good luck,

Phil

[disco_thrasher]

The 'anti-zap' is a voltage spike suppressor - usually found in shops near where jumper leads are sold. Just disconnecting batteries won't do anything to protect the electronics. 9 times out of ten you can get by without the anti-zap, but it's a risk.

If you have a set of recent jumper leads, it should have a voltage spike suppressor feature - that will work. If not, upgrade your jumper leads with a anti spike device at the same time.

Thanks i need a new pair off jumper leads too i will kill 2 birds with on stone

[d2dave]

I welded brackets for the rearbar wing protector supports to the chassis on my d1, no probs:)....

CHEERS TIM.


Not many electrics in a D1.

Dave.

[uninformed]

disconect the battery and the atlernator. keep the earth as close to the work piece as possible.

regarding the Alt. i found out the hard way. and this on a def. no elecs

Serg

[Tank]

As uninformed said, make sure earth (welder) is on clean metal and close to the job, Regards Frank.

[Blknight.aus]

I strongly suggest bolting them onto a plate that youve welded to the chassis as opposed to welding the frame directly to the chassis.


Ive seen the spikes that turn up while welding on a chassis on a crow while down at ALTC. While I dont think that its likely to cook off any of the simple electronics in a D1 it certainly cant hurt to take the precautions mentioned above.

dont forget, pics of the work,

[disco_thrasher]

I strongly suggest bolting them onto a plate that youve welded to the chassis as opposed to welding the frame directly to the chassis.


Ive seen the spikes that turn up while welding on a chassis on a crow while down at ALTC. While I dont think that its likely to cook off any of the simple electronics in a D1 it certainly cant hurt to take the precautions mentioned above.

dont forget, pics of the work,

My thoughts of bolting it to the chassis was my first thought but to create the same strenght as a weld i would have to do 4 bolts ,, and drill through both sides of the box section of the chassis or would the pop ins be enough
cheers kelvin

[Blknight.aus]

youd have to drill through and insert spacers to prevent the chassis from crushing.

I was talking more about extending the chassis by welding a plate that extends past the chassis and bolting into the extended plate.

[disco_thrasher]

youd have to drill through and insert spacers to prevent the chassis from crushing.

I was talking more about extending the chassis by welding a plate that extends past the chassis and bolting into the extended plate.

ah yeah good idea

cheers kelvin

[disco_thrasher]

well i finished my rear rocksliders yesterday it took me about 3hrs using scaffold tube and some checker plate that was lying around all in all it cost me nothing , the 3hrs that it took me ,i was at work getting paid anyway so i actually got paid to do it LOL:D:o

i used my newly obtained surge protection jumper leads disconected the battery and isolated the alternator

i welded a 5mm Z bar plate to the chassis doing 2cm welds every 2cm then cut away my body and half of the steel rear bar ,cut a slot into the scaffold tube where it would slott up into the rear bumper ,then spot welded that and then welded the scaff tube to the chassis it turned out pritty good and strong i will see how it goes this xmas wheeling as i might change the one side to allow bigger wheels in the future , the other side i thought of that before i welded it on dam it not planning properly oh well it will give me something to do at work the first week back LOL

cheers kelvin

[Blknight.aus]

and then welded the scaff tube to the chassis it turned out pritty good and strong i will see how it goes this xmas wheeling as i might change the one side to allow bigger wheels in the future , the other side i thought of that before i welded it on dam it not planning properly oh well it will give me something to do at work the first week back LOL

cheers kelvin

:censored::oops2:


I was talking more about extending the chassis by welding a plate that extends past the chassis and bolting into the extended plate.

:imwithstupid:

Nufti.

[DRanged]

Kelvin
Regardless whether you weld direct to the chassis or weld on a mounting pad, dont forget to treat the inner chassis. On our RRC I have drilled a hole (20mm approx) directly opposite to any chassis welding so you can paint or treat the area as the inner chassis will be heat affected. This also depends on how long you want to keep your car or chassis. We also waxoil ours as well to extend its life. 85 model and rust free:D

Everyone forgets that chassis can rust from the inside out.

Justin;)

[long stroke]

Kelvin
Regardless whether you weld direct to the chassis or weld on a mounting pad, dont forget to treat the inner chassis. On our RRC I have drilled a hole (20mm approx) directly opposite to any chassis welding so you can paint or treat the area as the inner chassis will be heat affected. This also depends on how long you want to keep your car or chassis. We also waxoil ours as well to extend its life. 85 model and rust free:D

Everyone forgets that chassis can rust from the inside out.

Justin;)

I forgot about the inside of mine:angel:
I better get to it, thanks for the heads up Justin:D

TIM.

[HangOver]

you can buy waxoil in australia?

[DRanged]

you can buy waxoil in australia?

Yep take a look at the RS Components web catalogue. I hope they still sell it. Mind you its not cheap.

Justin