Slotted swivel question

[thrower78]

I want to get my swivels slotted to correct my caster.
Insted of pulling the swivels off my vehicle and sending them down to LRA which would be propably a 3 week turn around with my only form of transport out of action for all that time.
I can get hold of a second hand set of swivel housings very cheap in very good condition, I was thinking of sending these down getting them slotted then changing them over when I get them back.
Can anyone see any problems with doing this?

Thanks Andrew

[thrower78]

To add to my above post.
Everyone on here talks about slotted swivels as a cheap and easy to correct castor. By the time I send down the swivels and then get them installed when I get them back It will probably end up costing my $600 + (150 per side for slotting and at least 300 install)
Is there any problem with just using castor correction bushes? This would be closer to $200. I am here to learn if there is a problem with bushes please let me know.

Thanks Andrew

[discowhite]

no problems with your first question, the second one.....castor bushes are crap.
they reduce flex and will make the ride feel harsh.


cheers phil

[thrower78]

Ok I was hoping I could get away with the cheaper option, It is only a 2" lift (40mm HD front dobinson coils) and 4" of front bump stop clearence. But my steering is scary at times since the lift. I thought the slotted balls option was for the larger lift.
Just about everyone I talked to said that I would not need castor correction with the lift I was putting in but it would seem that I do.

Andrew

[Grimace]

I have a set of cranked arms (rovertym) available to suit upto 4" lift - $400.

[Blknight.aus]

I reccomend not using the bushes to correct the caster.

correctly manufactured (not just heated and rebent) radius arms are the ultimate best bet.

IF you want to go the slotted swivels way (and IVe seen a couple of versions I'm suitabley impressed with) I would suggest getting them sent off for modification and then for refinishing of the chrome on the ball.

[thrower78]

So Cranked radius arms would fix my problem and not have any bad effects on front drive shaft angles. My understanding is that they will return everything back to standard?

Andrew

[Blknight.aus]

it will return the castor and king pin angle to normal but it will still leave your standard UJ's potentially over angling.

[thrower78]

How would you then solve the uni joint issue?
It seems that what ever you do it puts something else out of line

[McDisco]

Are you sure its your castor angle that is the problem? Check your panhard bushes, wheel bearings and steering dampener as well. I replaced all of these items on my Rangie (which has a 3 inch lift) with lots of bump stop clearance and it has made the steering quite tolerable. But then again, mine is just a weekend toy and not a daily driver.

Angus

[McDisco]

How would you then solve the uni joint issue?
It seems that what ever you do it puts something else out of line

Doing your swivels is the best method as it returns your diff to the right angle, hence reducing the angle on your uni joint. If yours is a daily driver (and it is the lift that is the problem) I would be getting the swivels done.

Angus

[thrower78]

It is aligned, balanced, most of the other stuff is fine as far as I know the suspension place didn't say anything and I asked them to look at all that, doesn't mean they did. Steering seems to take longer to be transmitted to the tyres and is very twichy at speed one little wobble and you are fighting to get it back, you realy need to concentrate to keep it straight.

Is this caster?

Andrew

[Blknight.aus]

How would you then solve the uni joint issue?
It seems that what ever you do it puts something else out of line

fit wide angle UJs and flanges.

the problem flange being the one up on the Tcase side of business when the shafts in the right way...

drop a line to RAR110 about what was found on the front of his deefer when the new front housing was installed.

Hes got the offset bushes.

[thrower78]

It is my daily driver and I am just looking for the easiest way of fixing the proplem without causing a lot of other issues.

Andrew

[Skiboy]

To add to my above post.
Everyone on here talks about slotted swivels as a cheap and easy to correct castor. By the time I send down the swivels and then get them installed when I get them back It will probably end up costing my $600 + (150 per side for slotting and at least 300 install)
Is there any problem with just using castor correction bushes? This would be closer to $200. I am here to learn if there is a problem with bushes please let me know.

Thanks Andrew
Andrew
A few guys in the GCLRO club have done this and swear by it. Pm DRanged
I was told it was a lot more expensive than you mention above - where are you getting this done. I have a set of spare swivel hubs and was thinking of getting those done and then fitting but mine for more an off road use but does get the shakes sometimes (and I have replaced all bushes, damper, shocks, swivel preload etc etc.) with the wide tyres - ok with standard road tyres.

So very interested in how you go.
Skiboy

[Blknight.aus]

if your only getting it with wide tyres then its possabley the bearings and a road hammer issue with one of the wides.

[Skiboy]

Bearings seem ok - had it apart
Happens on two different set of wides - one brand new
Sorry did not mean to hijack Andrew's thread
If his an undulation on the road then can get the death shakes. Not as bad now fixed everything but still there.

Ute mainly off road and some comps so not a daily driver but of course want it safe.
Skiboy

[350RRC]

It is my daily driver and I am just looking for the easiest way of fixing the proplem without causing a lot of other issues.

Andrew

Then just get your swivel balls slotted. End of story.

One of the best things (if not the best) I did with my POS (lifted 2") and I did it myself. Your circumstances may differ.

As Tiger told Nike when they were looking for a new slogun: just do it.

cheers, DL

[jazzaD1]

Then just get your swivel balls slotted. End of story.

One of the best things (if not the best) I did with my POS (lifted 2") and I did it myself. Your circumstances may differ.

As Tiger told Nike when they were looking for a new slogun: just do it.

cheers, DL

did you do yours with a die grinder? or did you use a mill?

[Graz]

Has anyone had their swivels slotted in WA? If so who did the work?
I did a 3" lift on my D1 daily driver and had adjustable radius arm bushes fitted. It still has an annoying drive line vibration around 60 k even with stuffing around getting the front shaft balanced.
I am convinced slotting is the way to go though using a dye grinder sounds scary. A machinist and mill sounds the go.

[whitakerb]

Has anyone had their swivels slotted in WA? If so who did the work?
I did a 3" lift on my D1 daily driver and had adjustable radius arm bushes fitted. It still has an annoying drive line vibration around 60 k even with stuffing around getting the front shaft balanced.
I am convinced slotting is the way to go though using a dye grinder sounds scary. A machinist and mill sounds the go.

Dad slotted his with a die grinder, and once they were assembled again, ran a grub screw between the flanges to hold it in position. As long as you mark it out properly a die grinder won't be an issue.

Failing that I think the cheapest option would be to take them to a machining shop. Would require an indexing head and a mill, both tools a machinist shop will have, and should take about an hour to do the pair. Hell, I'd do them for ya at work for nothing but our indexing head is only a baby one - swivel hub won't fit.


Ben

[weeds]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/34532-look-i-slotted-my-balls.html

[thrower78]

Cool seems that the swivels is the way to go. I am quite mechanicaly able but I will send them to LRA and get them done by them.

My problem is not a shake but more very touchy steering if you are not on the ball at hight speed it could be dangerous, I have just had my second knee recon and a mate was driving my car home and she had to have 2 hands on the wheel the whole time to keep it straight.

I did have some vibe problems but this will be fixed with a solid rear prop shaft conversion and servicing front drive shaft. I am slowly finding all the bits that the previous owner did not grease, eg drag link ends solid and to soak them in lube to get them off.

On another note what parts on my car should be regularly greased?
unis, tie rod, drag link, panhard rod ends?

Andrew

[350RRC]

did you do yours with a die grinder? or did you use a mill?

From the thread Weeds linked:

Hi,

I did mine on a 74 RRC some time ago. Worked out how much extra caster I needed from the OL sticky (thanks HSV) and went from there with a slotting bit ($27 odd non trade) a jig, and a drill press.

Bolted the 'slotted' balls up to a spare housing using rusty oily bolts, checked the angles and filled the voids around the bolts with weld.

I am not a good welder, but all I had to do was clean up one surface a touch with a little grinder and they just looked like OEM. Did use thick washers under the bolt heads on reassembly.

Drives the way intended. Great return ( in driving pleasure) for time invested.

cheers, DL