Bloody 3 Amigos Again!!

[bruiser69]

I can't believe it. Had drivers side ABS wheel sensor replaced 6 yrs ago (fault was later traced to wiring loom), ABS shuttle valves in modulator replaced 4 yrs ago, and have had no sign of 3 amigos till 2 days ago.
With the info on VI LR site I measured the terminals connected to shuttle valves & confirmed that these were OK (3K Ohm no pressure, 2K half pressure, 1K full pressure). I then disconnected the wheel sensors & measured each in turn (approx 1K).
Maybe vibration from worn pads/disk causing errors, but they are not down to minimum.
Possibly faulty loom again. Last time an external cable was run to bypass faulty internal cable.
I'll find out tomorrow as booked into LR for 190K service & post what they find.
Cheers..B

[bruiser69]

UPDATE. I just got off the phone to Southside LR & they tell me that fault is the shuttle valves switches again. They said they couldn't get the full travel switch to activate consistently so new shuttle valve assembly required. I was quoted $1800 includind fitting!! I reminded then that a shuttle valve repair kit was fitted last time & only cost $450 inc labour. According to LR there is no kit currently available only complete shuttle valve assembly or complete ABS modulator.
A quick Google search showed me that there are shuttle valve repair kits available in UK for under $100 so this is the way Iwill be going.
The 'Fix' outlined in VI LR forum that brings switch wires out to an external plug is a bit dodgy. If vehicle was involved in an accident ,this modification would probanbly be deemed illegal & insurance company could deny claim. If a death occurred you could possibly be charged.

Anyone got any idea where you can buy shuttle valve repair kits in Australia & a good non LR mechanic to fit it?

Cheers..B

The info below I found on www.forums.landroverworld.org & makes for very interesing reading.

ABS Systems
The Discovery II electronic braking system, called SLABS (self leveling antilock braking), is made by Wabco of Germany. Wabco is a subsidiary of American Standard, a company better known to the public for toilets than brakes. In the automotive field, Wabco specializes in braking and suspension systems for trucks. According to the Wabco, two out of three commercial vehicles with advanced braking systems are equipped with Wabco products. The Land Rover system includes four-wheel antilock braking, hill descent control, and four-wheel traction control. The SLABS control unit also controls the self-leveling suspension, if the vehicle has that feature. The Discovery air suspension is also a Wabco product. As an aside, Wabco air suspension is also found in the new Audi A6 and the Mercedes CLS.
One of the most common ABS questions is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on? All three of those systems share a common set of
core components. The wheel speed sensors, the hubs, the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all three systems. So a fault in any one of them will cause a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have a fault that would only disable one of the three systems. 99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are. To see what’s wrong, you will need to connect a Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner won’t talk to them. You can use the T4or Autologic tools for this work.
The most common faults are wheel speed sensor faults.
The wheel speed sensors in a Land Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed wheel that’s a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts to more than 5 volts. If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are two paths to repair. The first is to replace the entire hub on the affected corner. This is the approach favored by dealers because the toothed wheel – called a reluctor ring – and the actual sensor are both part of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel bearing. The only way to service it is to change the hub, or you can try and have it sand blasted. As of this writing, hubs (front-RND646 / rear-RND694) cost around $400 and take about three hours to change. The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged. The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion. That’s especially true for Rovers that run on beaches. If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the hub has any free play at all – you need a complete assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to fix the vehicle by changing the sensor (front-RN292 / rear-RNH293) alone, a $100 part that’s less than an hour to swap. The path you choose should be determined by examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole. If the hub looks good, there’s an “8 or 10” odds that a sensor alone will fix your problem. Every now and then you will see a Rover that has wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS sensor and body. Always pull it apart and look for corrosion.
The next common fault in these systems is called shuttle valve failure. The shuttle valve is a part of the brake modulator – that big thing in the location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator incorporates the functions of an ABS servo and a brake master cylinder into one unit. If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see the three warning lights on the dash and there will be one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure. Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these
faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and cables, your trouble is probably in the modulator. Until now, this problem was addressed by replacement of the brake modulator (RNH082). That’s a $1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover
finally listened up and developed a fix. As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to remove the modulator and flip it over to install the valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes three hours or so. This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement over the former method of addressing this problem.
The part number for the repair kit is (SW0500030). If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation instructions.

Another common problem is a mushy brake pedal. In my experience, the only explanation for a mushy pedal is improper bleeding procedure. Bleeding a Discovery II takes two people and the Land Rover test system, and it takes the two of them a bit over half an hour. You need the tester to operate the pump and valves to make sure all the air is purged from the modulator. If you are paying for this service, expect a labor bill in the range of one and a half hours and $20-30 of brake fluid. If you are not at a dealer, make sure they use the correct Castrol LMA fluid. Don’t even start this process unless the shop has a tester to run the pump and valves. You could bleed brakes in the field without one in an emergency, but there is no way to get a really good pedal without cycling pump and valves, and there is a way to do it yourself without an expensive machine. I’ve done it without any test equipment, and all by myself. I did use my Snap-on pressure bleeder. I’ve misplaced my notes for which wires to energize, but it is quite simple. Take an ohm meter, and test the wires and find the one with no resistance, this is the internal ground, don’t hook up power to it the rest are either shuttle valves or the motor which all need to be energized. I used the 12 v battery to run the pump motor and one 9volt battery to cycle the shuttle valves, and not one glitch after, but you do need to disconnect the positive cable to the battery first.

Stop lamp circuit problems. The usual way this problem manifests itself is a truck that won’t shift out of park. Discovery II models have an interlock that prevents shifting out of park unless the brake is pressed. So, if the brake light circuit fails, the car won’t go into gear. If that happens to you, the first step is to check the stop lamp fuse. I’ve seen several trucks where the stop lamps were fitted wrong, or the contacts corroded, and the fuse blew. Also check the trailer connector, if your Rover has one. A short there can pop fuses. If the fuses are good, you should check the stop lamp switch. It’s located above the brake pedal. If you are stuck somewhere, it is possible to get out of park by jumping the switch temporarily with a paper clip.

Finally, you should check your Rover to see if the brake modulator recall was done. If it was, you should have a B148 sticker on the radiator support. All Discovery II models built before spring of 2003 are subject to the recall. Land Rover found the caps on the ABS modulator were cracking under heavy off-road use. Therefore, they came up with heavier replacements. The caps are a quick bolt on installation. If you are near a dealer they will do this for you at no charge. If you can’t get to a dealer, or you’re
outside the USA, the part number for the kit is SWO500010K. Complete illustrated instructions can be found in the B148 recall bulletin, available from your dealer with the kit. This recall does not involve any hydraulic system disassembly, so the brakes won’t feel or act any differently. The heavier caps are plainly visible on top of the modulator. Once you see them, you’ll be able to tell it was done. Note: Recalls should always be done at your dealer so they can be properly recorded. Only do this yourself if you absolutely can’t get to a dealer, or if your Rover is not eligible because it’s a rebuilt salvage vehicle. Remember that you can access all of the most current service information, including workshop manuals, electrical manuals, recall notices, and service bulletins Land Rover’s website,



I hope this helps………. Chongo

[Colin Pedersen]

Had this problem for several years and finally sorted the problem after not accepting the 1, 2, $3,000 recommendations a lot of research and replacing front hubs I'm sure were never faulty!

The issue is the Wabco module (The same unit with the same issue in an H3 Hummer) is the plastic connector from the electrics side running across to the shuttle valve switch has poor solder connections. I tried re soldering but it proved to be a temporary fix.

If you look a the wiring diagram, pin 9 (the yellow one) runs straight to the switch's and straight out ground. I cut and loomed mine up to the ground points in front of the air filter and a $10 waterproof plug solved the problem permanently.

http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/brakes/absmod.pdf

There is a wiring diagram in the "good oil" section I cannot find at the moment...you might need to have a look.

If you cannot remove the switch without unscrewing the brake leads, you will need to get someone to do a power bleed with either a nanocom of LR testbook.

[bruiser69]

Had this problem for several years and finally sorted the problem after not accepting the 1, 2, $3,000 recommendations a lot of research and replacing front hubs I'm sure were never faulty!

The issue is the Wabco module (The same unit with the same issue in an H3 Hummer) is the plastic connector from the electrics side running across to the shuttle valve switch has poor solder connections. I tried re soldering but it proved to be a temporary fix.

If you look a the wiring diagram, pin 9 (the yellow one) runs straight to the switch's and straight out ground. I cut and loomed mine up to the ground points in front of the air filter and a $10 waterproof plug solved the problem permanently.

http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/brakes/absmod.pdf

There is a wiring diagram in the "good oil" section I cannot find at the moment...you might need to have a look.

If you cannot remove the switch without unscrewing the brake leads, you will need to get someone to do a power bleed with either a nanocom of LR testbook.

Hi Colin,
As I noted in my post, there could be serious legal ramifications if vehicle is involved in an accident (God forbid fatal) if inspectors find the non standard modifications to the braking system. I'm sure you agree that the ABS modulator is the heart of the Discovery braking system. I am not a laywer, but I know that modifications to safety related parts of vehicles are strictly frowned on & can make your insurance null & void if detected.
Food for thought..Cheers..B

[Colin Pedersen]

Hi Brusier, understand where you are coming from. But…. If you have a good look at the wiring diagram and read the operational info on the SLABS device (Some of the doco's in the good oil section) the Traction control is separate from the ABS. In fact, when you have the 3 amigos error, the ABS still functions 100% as the TC is controlled independently and separately.

The poor manufacturing issue with the switch connector can only be resolved by replacing the unit (very expensive) and I believe consistently misdiagnosed and has cost users $1000's in new switches, HUB units and labour etc. My own vehicle was an original 1999 TD5 and played up from the time I bought it. After replacing Hubs on the recommendation of several LR experts, the issue returned immediately with recommendation of replacing the Shuttle Valve switches and ultimately the ABS modulator for $3-$4000.

The issue all along is the bad manufacturing of the Switch connector….which fails over time as the unit is rattles and rolled over road surfaces. (which also explains the random activation of the error…..the lights always came on at obscure times!)

As mentioned, the schematic for the shuttle valve switches is in on pin 9, through the connector to the switch and straight back out to a common ground pin (6). Re-pluming this immediately fixed the issue and the permanent amigos lights went straight off without a testbook (I did invest in a Nanocom) reset once connected and the modulator worked 100% from that day on.

I spend considerable time diagnosing the switches and the test is the Ohms reading of .3 off, .2 one on and .1 both on. If this is OK, the issue is the connector not the switch.

The legalities of doing this will always be at the users discretion……worked for me!

[AussieAub]

If you look a the wiring diagram, pin 9 (the yellow one) runs straight to the switch's and straight out ground. I cut and loomed mine up to the ground points in front of the air filter and a $10 waterproof plug solved the problem permanently.

Colin, I'm keen at looking at this, do you have any pics of your mod to work off, pls, just for reference?

Cheers,

..:: KIEREN ::..
2000 Disco II Auto V8
Object Of Mass Consumption
AussieAubs Disco Page (http://aussieaub.blogspot.com)

[bruiser69]

Hi Brusier, understand where you are coming from. But…. If you have a good look at the wiring diagram and read the operational info on the SLABS device (Some of the doco's in the good oil section) the Traction control is separate from the ABS. In fact, when you have the 3 amigos error, the ABS still functions 100% as the TC is controlled independently and separately.

The poor manufacturing issue with the switch connector can only be resolved by replacing the unit (very expensive) and I believe consistently misdiagnosed and has cost users $1000's in new switches, HUB units and labour etc. My own vehicle was an original 1999 TD5 and played up from the time I bought it. After replacing Hubs on the recommendation of several LR experts, the issue returned immediately with recommendation of replacing the Shuttle Valve switches and ultimately the ABS modulator for $3-$4000.

The issue all along is the bad manufacturing of the Switch connector….which fails over time as the unit is rattles and rolled over road surfaces. (which also explains the random activation of the error…..the lights always came on at obscure times!)

As mentioned, the schematic for the shuttle valve switches is in on pin 9, through the connector to the switch and straight back out to a common ground pin (6). Re-pluming this immediately fixed the issue and the permanent amigos lights went straight off without a testbook (I did invest in a Nanocom) reset once connected and the modulator worked 100% from that day on.

I spend considerable time diagnosing the switches and the test is the Ohms reading of .3 off, .2 one on and .1 both on. If this is OK, the issue is the connector not the switch.

The legalities of doing this will always be at the users discretion……worked for me!

Hi Colin,

I have ordered a Shuttle Valve & seal upgrade kit from Falconworks & with instructions from VI LR ABS Mod - Land Rover Club V.I. (http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html) I hope to install new shuttle valve switch assembly without disconnecting the brake lines. As I have continuity of the shuttle valve switch circuit out to connector (even hit modulator with rubber mallet to confirm no intermittents) I am hopeful that this new switch assembly together with improved seals to prevent fluid entry will solve problem. If it doesn't & amigos return I will consider OPTION B, but will break into flex conduit, connect to the yell/gn & Blk SVS wires & run a smaller flex conduit to base of switches. This way it will look like original wiring. Cheers..B

[2 rocks]

Hi Brusier, understand where you are coming from. But…. If you have a good look at the wiring diagram and read the operational info on the SLABS device (Some of the doco's in the good oil section) the Traction control is separate from the ABS. In fact, when you have the 3 amigos error, the ABS still functions 100% as the TC is controlled independently and separately.

The poor manufacturing issue with the switch connector can only be resolved by replacing the unit (very expensive) and I believe consistently misdiagnosed and has cost users $1000's in new switches, HUB units and labour etc. My own vehicle was an original 1999 TD5 and played up from the time I bought it. After replacing Hubs on the recommendation of several LR experts, the issue returned immediately with recommendation of replacing the Shuttle Valve switches and ultimately the ABS modulator for $3-$4000.

The issue all along is the bad manufacturing of the Switch connector….which fails over time as the unit is rattles and rolled over road surfaces. (which also explains the random activation of the error…..the lights always came on at obscure times!)

As mentioned, the schematic for the shuttle valve switches is in on pin 9, through the connector to the switch and straight back out to a common ground pin (6). Re-pluming this immediately fixed the issue and the permanent amigos lights went straight off without a testbook (I did invest in a Nanocom) reset once connected and the modulator worked 100% from that day on.

I spend considerable time diagnosing the switches and the test is the Ohms reading of .3 off, .2 one on and .1 both on. If this is OK, the issue is the connector not the switch.

The legalities of doing this will always be at the users discretion……worked for me!

Hi Colin, I agree, as it was explained to me and as you point out - the black plastic resin was poured into the cavity containing the electrical connections - the intention being that this would 'seal' all the connections - which in some cases I'm led to believe were not soldered at all.

Of course the problem arises that there may be manufacturing inconsistencies in the injection of the resin causing issues from day one, or with age and heat in the engine bay the resin hardens & shrinks slightly allowing the poorly or un-soldered connections to become loose and trigger 'faulting'.

A very interesting & clever bit of detective work on your part! :BigThumb:

Cheers
Mike

[Colin Pedersen]

Hi AussieAub,

I recently sold the Disco 2 and upgraded to a Disco 3 HSE V8…….the second hand $ difference between the SE TDV6 and HSE V8 was such that there was a lot of extra ULP to be bought and a lot of fun driving the V8 for a change!! A beautiful vehicle…anyway, I did not take and photos at the time.

Looking at Brusier69’s link the Virgin Islands, the final section is exactly what I did and he has suppled a full working manual and pictures, possible a bit neater than my job. I added a connector plug so the Modulator could be removed without cutting the wire….whish I had found this earlier….they must have a lot of time to spare in the Virgin Islands!!!

I really believe that 99% of the 3 Amigos are caused by this issue…I also found the schematic but it’s in a 1.2Mb PDF….the page won't upload this so I've attached a print screen in gif document.

Cheers

Col.

[Zute]

Hi Colin, Before you do anything, When was the last time the Brake fluid was replaced and a full bleed done ? + power bleed.
I was getting a shuttle value fault code, but after doing this, I have banished the boys.
They would come on occasionally after wards. But now not for two weeks.
There is new brake fluid (Dot 5) for ABS, which I also used.

[steve_a]

You may all be interested to note http://www.rswsolutions.com (http://www.rswsolutions.com/)
which sell a small USB doofer which resets and reads the ABS codes.

I've bought one and it does work as advertised, anyone in Adelaide wants code read and lights reset just message me, happy to.

As it happens, it appears mine is being caused by shuttle switch - so got to get around to doing the wiring mod.

As far as bleeding - I've recently completely emptied, flushed and rebuilt the brake system and I bled the unit by removing the ABS relay after initial bleeding and shorting the power feed to run the pump.

Pedal is fantastic now.

[bruiser69]

You may all be interested to note http://www.rswsolutions.com (http://www.rswsolutions.com/)
which sell a small USB doofer which resets and reads the ABS codes.

I've bought one and it does work as advertised, anyone in Adelaide wants code read and lights reset just message me, happy to.

As it happens, it appears mine is being caused by shuttle switch - so got to get around to doing the wiring mod.

As far as bleeding - I've recently completely emptied, flushed and rebuilt the brake system and I bled the unit by removing the ABS relay after initial bleeding and shorting the power feed to run the pump.

Pedal is fantastic now.

Which relay & which pins do you short in socket to get pump to run?
I believe there is a function on Nanocom which will run pump & alternate solenoids in ABS modulator to free any trapped air. I guess this is another reason to consider buying one.
On the Virgin Islands LR site they show that shuttle vavle assy can be removed without removing brake lines. I have a Falconworks SVS kit on order & will try installing it with the VI instructions.
Cheers..B

[bruiser69]

I installed the Falconworks Wabco SVS assembly & shuttle valve upgrade seal kit last saturday(thanks Harlie for your help & Nanocom).
I have posted http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostics/95891-replacing-shuttle-valve-switches-need-nanocom.html instructions & pics in Electronic Diagnostics Probably not the correct place.
Very happy with result & about $1625 better off than would have been if listened to Stealers.
Cheers..B

[dolphinberserk]

I imagine it might be good to have info on D2 ABS cures collated here so I’d just like to add an account of repairing the Three Amigos in my 1999 D2 with no new parts or mods with a couple of hour’s work (I may be lucky but I’m guessing from what I’ve read on Aulro and other forums that many times the dealer claims a new part is necessary or the mechanic shrugs, the real problem may be a ‘noisy’ brake pad or greasy wheel sensor. This thread as well as a few other aulro threads and other forums, a nanocom and the surprisingly useful Haynes D2 workshop manual have been excellent help.

From purchase about 6 weeks ago I had el Trio Amigos in the 1999 D2 Td5 I just bought for my wife. After one hour’s work and clearing the fault codes two weeks ago the Amigos abruptly disappeared and have stayed gone for a week’s town driving on the Gold Coast, the 1100km trip to Canberra (from where I write now) with some dirt track action around campsites and roughshod kerb mounting urban driving in Canberra city. When I bought the truck I immediately I paid my $400 and bought the Nanocom direct from Blackbox. It told me about one repeated fault, intermittent signal from the front left hand wheel sensor. I used the ohmmeter (resistance tester) on a $24 Dick Smith multitester and found I had adequate resistance on the LH wheel sensor (was it 1150 ohms, I can’t remember the number now but it was equal to other wheel sensors). I could have connected an AC volt meter to the LH sensor and spun the wheel but took Pedro’s idea (thanks Pedro, I owe you a few already) and tested the whole chain of elements: Chocked two of the other wheels, lifted the (RH) wheel in question so that it could spin freely, placed an object on top that wheel (or marked the top with chalk) so I could later verify that it turned, got in the car, started it with foot on brake, put it in drive and watched the speedo and tachometer. Tachometer sat on 850rpm and the speedo sat on 0km/h! That shouldn’t happen in drive! I went out and checked the wheel and it had been spinning as the object placed on top had been tossed a foot away. That means the wheel sensor didn’t know the wheel had been spinning (Gracias Pedro). The interesting thing for me (before now an owner of traditional non-awd cars) is that the truck did not try to smash the back wall out of the garage and just span the raised wheel. Cool. I tested another wheel (should have tested all wheels but perfectionism is one of my faults I am trying to quell and decided not to) and found that at idle 850rpm the wheel span around 37km/h (after about 1 sec delay).

I chocked it, jacked it and put it on a stand and hydraulic jack, pulled off the wheel in question (was impressed by the one locking nut with an indent that needs the clever kit from the tool bag to undo) and had a looksee. I was immediately impressed by the simplicity, practicality and accessibility of the whole arrangement compared with the D1. Unlike the D1, to remove the rotor you do not have to remove the hub and each caliper has a clever harness allowing removal of the caliper body by simply undoing the brake caliper pins (two lightly torqued 12mm bolts) and using a piece of wire to hang it off the front suspension spring. As I needed to remove the rotor, to get at the wheel sensor I then tackled the two brake caliper bolts (19mm 12 point) torqued to 176 newton metres. I don’t know my physics but 176NM felt like bench pressing 172kg. Air impact driver couldn’t touch it. I used a 2’ long ½” drive breaker bar with another 1’ extension from and 2’ iron tube. You won’t get it without significant leverage, but it was easy with 3’ of leverage . The caliper harness comes off, then you undo the #3/#4 ? screw from the brake rotor. I used penetrative oil and the rotor came off with 20 seconds firm pulling and wiggling (unlike the fbhammer beating required for the D1 rotor). I checked the rotor and at 24mm it was near new for a D2. I checked the brake pads and at 10mm they were well within spec. So I was guessing the problem was either in the sensor or the brake pads ‘rattling’ on application and interfering with the wheel sensor output signal.

I took the brake pads to the bench grinder and gave them a tiny bevel on the bottom end which I thought might reduce brake squeal (it may or may not have had any bearing on the positive result). These pads had plenty left on them but only had very thin (1-2mm) and uneven painted on anti-squeal backing so I painted the back of them where they would contact the pistons/caliper with anti-squeal goop and let them dry for 15 minutes.

To address the sensor, I wiped down around it and then allen keyed it out. I found the sensor had plenty of white grease, but had a big gloop of grease on the trigger wheel end. I wiped the end clean and reduced grease all over it, leaving just enough grease to stop it seizing in the hole and the o-ring from perishing (reason being I had plenty other greases but couldn’t for the Google of me ascertain which grease might cause magnetic interference). I noticed a piece of dirt in the hole over the wheel, it may have fallen in when I removed the sensor or it may not; I got it out with tweezers. Some accounts of ABS issues recommend seating the sensor as deep as possible (until it just touches the sensor so I wiped out the hole for the sensor and used a sharpened chopstick to scrape the light film of grease and crud out of the seat for the o-ring to ensure the sensor sat as deep as possible. Wiped the o-ring and gave it a very very thin lick of the grease that was gooping up the sensor hole, fitted it to the sensor and put the sensor back in the hole. Put a blob of Loctite on the sensor allen key screw to be sure and tightened it to designated torque. I used brake cleaner to take any c^&p off the rotor and replaced the screw to hold it in place. Put the caliper mount back on and torqued it to 170nm (or was it 175nm) which was impossible with just the big torque wrench so I jacked up the wheel a little higher (about an inch above the stand) and stuffed a hardwood 4x2 under the end of the torque wrench, then slowly let the hydraulic jack down until I heard the torque wrench click. Sewed up everything else. Checked chocks then started the Disco and put it in drive and the speedo read 37km/h at idle 850rpm. Woohoo! So now the wheel sensor was reading wheel speed. Rock’n’roll.

The cause/s of the bad signal from the wheel sensor may have been:
- the grease on the end of the sensor (it may be magnetic grease?)
- the piece of dirt on the trigger wheel
- that the sensor was too shallow (though it didn’t seem too different)
- vibration from the brake pads (lack of anti-squeal goop or perhaps my beveling of the pads helped?)

Whatever it was is fixed for now. I fault with the nanocom and have a warning light free dash. Vamonos trio amigos. I’ve cleared faults before and the same one (left front sensor) kept coming back but this time the change in wheel sensor is tangible (thank you again to Pedro’s suggested speedo check method).

Cheers,

Rich

[StephenC]

I have read much of the stuff on this site about the 3 Amigos problem but one thing I am unclear about.
If the lights are cleared with an Amigo USB and do NOT come back on, is the system fully active? That is, once the faults have been logged and cleared is it safe to continue driving if the warning lights stay unlit? Clearly if they come back on immediately there is an issue that needs a mechanics attention.

[Andrew D]

Go for a drive and slam on the brakes, abs should kick in. Then go and drive down a hill with the hdc engaged. Thirdly, try some wet grass or bumpy gravel road to check the tc, will also be good for abs.

All should work. Pretty sure all three still work if the fault is the SVS.

Regards
Andrew

[joe.woods]

Just ordered this kit lots of good reports on it
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280798061470'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

[OffTrack]

That kit definitely looks to be the goods.

The only modulator issue it won't fix is leaking shuttle valve seals. If the seals are leaking brake fluid into the shuttle valve switch, the SVS will fail again.

If you are pulling the modulator apart to do the kit, it's worth thinking about changing the seals as well.

ABS SVS Seals - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I. (http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-svs-seals.html)

ABS shuttle valve code solution; brake fluid leaks (http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/index.php'main_page=product_info&products_id=190)

[joe.woods]

That kit definitely looks to be the goods.

The only modulator issue it won't fix is leaking shuttle valve seals. If the seals are leaking brake fluid into the shuttle valve switch, the SVS will fail again.

If you are pulling the modulator apart to do the kit, it's worth thinking about changing the seals as well.

ABS SVS Seals - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I. (http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-svs-seals.html)

ABS shuttle valve code solution; brake fluid leaks (http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/index.php'main_page=product_info&products_id=190)

Thanks Offtrack:), I have orderd the seals as well, I'm hoping to be rid of this issue for keeps:o.

Cheers Joe