Electrical component required

[Bundalene]

Can anyone advise me where I can purchase a similar component to that in photo below (the gold coloured bit). I believe this is a current limiting device - possible a bi-metal type product which open circuits with excessive current.


http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2528/dec8002.jpg (http://img694.imageshack.us/i/dec8002.jpg/)


This is out of a D2 seat motor. The reolacement price for the motor is $403 - a little on the high side.

Erich

[discowhite]

have you searched the RS component catologue?

if they dont have it you wont find one.

cheers phil

[p38arover]

Erich, I'd expect it to self-reset after it cools down. I can't help you with an alternative though.

If needs be, you could mount a replacement externally - but you'd know that given your electrical background.

[dmdigital]

What about from another European electric seat? Have you tried Peugot or Volvo etc? They could all be using a common part and you may get one from a different seat.

[Bundalene]

have you searched the RS component catologue?

if they dont have it you wont find one.

cheers phil

Hi, yes, I have checked out RS Components, Farnell, and a few motor suppliers. Also checked the Web for similar items and there are a few listings of current limiting bi-metal devices, but no suppliers.

Land Rover can't help either. They have offered to reduce the price of the motoe by $100 as it is in stock and a dead part.

Thanks, Erich

[Bundalene]

What about from another European electric seat? Have you tried Peugot or Volvo etc? They could all be using a common part and you may get one from a different seat.

The electric windows in the Series2 Disco have the current limiting done in the BCU I think, however the electric windows in the Defenders have no such luxuries as a BCU and use similar devices in the motors, but the current range is different.

It depends on the types of controls the motors have.

I have yet to look at the P38 but I think their current limiting for the seat controls is done from a central unit, not at the motor.

Thanks, Erich

[Bundalene]

Erich, I'd expect it to self-reset after it cools down. I can't help you with an alternative though.

If needs be, you could mount a replacement externally - but you'd know that given your electrical background.

Hi Ron,

yes they are supposed to reset 35 seconds after an overload, but this device has a high resustance all the time.

Erich

[andrew e]

I think my old man has one in his shed.............

[p38arover]

I think my old man has one in his shed.............

Can he remember where? :D

[isuzurover]

high resustance


Since when are you a Kiwi???

[dmdigital]

I think my old man has one in his shed.............
It's probably broken;)

[Waxenwane]

Why not bypass it by making it a solid conductor and put a thermal overload fuse on the supply?

[Bundalene]

Why not bypass it by making it a solid conductor and put a thermal overload fuse on the supply?

The thermal fuse or bi-metal strip (as they used to be called) is required to open circuit when it reached the end of it's travel, allowing it to only travel in the other direction.

Actually the thermal fuse will only open if you continue driving against the end stop for too long, drawing excess current. The fuse should re-set (after 35 seconds) according to RAVE.

Erich

[Waxenwane]

I have the same setup on my sunroof......Instead of limit switches, I use 2 of these and they work quite well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/671.jpg