View Full Version : EGR - Bypass or Ball Bearing?
Wasa57
17th December 2009, 09:24 PM
Having read many posts here on EGR bypass, I was wondering why people go to the trouble of fitting a bypass kit, when simply blocking the suction tube with a suitably sized ball bearing achieves the same result (assuming the valve is clean and seals well when deactivated).
Is my assumption correct? What are the thoughts of people who have used either method?
Cheers,
Wasa
rangieman
17th December 2009, 09:37 PM
Having read many posts here on EGR bypass, I was wondering why people go to the trouble of fitting a bypass kit, when simply blocking the suction tube with a suitably sized ball bearing achieves the same result (assuming the valve is clean and seals well when deactivated).
Is my assumption correct? What are the thoughts of people who have used either method?
Cheers,
Wasa
Yes and no it also has a bit to do with reducing the restriction that the EGR causes aswell in my opinion:cool:
Blknight.aus
17th December 2009, 09:37 PM
you assumption is correctish
the MY02 setup doesnt have a butterfly so just blocking the vac line assuming the EGR seals is the easy way...
But if you stop a non leaky EGR from working you wont notice anything other than eventually the top half of you motor will outlive someone elses and you wont get the EGR problem.
If you have a fouled EGR that wont seal then just blocking the tube wont sort the problem.
If you have an MY03 engine then you have butterfly in the system that provides a minor restriction to flow so a Full EGR bypass is on the cards if you want everything that there is to offer.
Wasa57
17th December 2009, 10:03 PM
Thanks for that.
Just so I understand...blocking alone will increase longevity of the upper motor, and full bypass will do this as well as...increase power / torque output slightly?
-Wasa
Blknight.aus
17th December 2009, 10:41 PM
under the assumption that the EGR is not faulty in anyway..
just blocking the tube on an MY02 (or earlier) will stop potential future problems
its 2 tubes for the MY03 (and later)
replacing the entire unit with the blanking plates and a straight through tube will solve any problems that have already developed in the EGR. It will prevent further degredation of the top half of the engine and (IMHO) hypothetically give you a slightly better flow from the intercooler into the inlet manifold. I personally suspect that the % will be nearly undectectable by seat of the pants testing unless your EGR was not working correctly before it was replaced.
Hendrik
18th December 2009, 05:06 AM
I initially blocked mine off by pressing a piece of old shaft in there, but replaced the whole assembly with the blanking kit, as it came with my silicon hoses. Powerwise, removing the egr doesn't do anything...I couldn't notice any increase in power or torque, it was still exactly the same.
Engine life wise, yes it would make a difference, having done my head recently I having see first hand the amount of gunk in the inlet ports, it is definately worth blanking it. Unless you could be bothered constantly logging a stuck egr fault and then making it "unstuck".
stig0000
18th December 2009, 06:51 AM
i love talking about EGR kits:D:D:wasntme:
strangy
18th December 2009, 08:21 AM
My valve was a bit sticky so fitted a welsh plug in the exhaust manifold end of the pipe.
Cheers
Wasa57
18th December 2009, 08:30 AM
I initially blocked mine off by pressing a piece of old shaft in there, but replaced the whole assembly with the blanking kit, as it came with my silicon hoses. Powerwise, removing the egr doesn't do anything...I couldn't notice any increase in power or torque, it was still exactly the same.
Engine life wise, yes it would make a difference, having done my head recently I having see first hand the amount of gunk in the inlet ports, it is definately worth blanking it. Unless you could be bothered constantly logging a stuck egr fault and then making it "unstuck".
Hendrik, where did you purchase the combined silicone hose / EGR blanking kit?
-Wasa
Hendrik
19th December 2009, 12:21 AM
Paddocks in the UK, not sure if they still do them as a kit though.
Wasa57
31st December 2009, 02:40 PM
Thanks, Hendrik
Paddocks was a good tip. For the benefit of others, I have listed my order and prices:
TD5 silicone hose kit - 59.50 pounds
Bottom end set TD5 - 37.50 pounds
EGR blanking kit - 22.50 pounds
Total - 119.50 pounds (including postage)!
That equates to Au$217.07! The website was easy to negotiate.
www.paddockspares.com (http://www.paddockspares.com)
Would have cost me more on EBay just for the silicone hoses, with postage on top!
-Wasa
LOVEMYRANGIE
10th January 2010, 12:30 AM
If you have an MY03 engine then you have butterfly in the system that provides a minor restriction to flow so a Full EGR bypass is on the cards if you want everything that there is to offer.
Dave
does the MY03 have default position settings for the EGR & butterfly when cold ie full open, part open etc and can the lines to these be disconnected?
Reason I ask is the turbo in my recently aquired D2a seems to have a slight amount of compressor whistle audible with the passenger window down but this dissapears after it gets it's first few throttle ups.
As I am away on holidays, wouldn't mind trying it towing on the trip home and seeing what happens. Actually feels a bit pokier when it's first started.
Cheers
Andrew
Blknight.aus
10th January 2010, 07:24 AM
as far as I remember the EGR works the same hot or cold and the valving is a case of its either open or closed.
the whistle might just be the turbo not coming up as much at idle while the engines running on its cold settings.
LOVEMYRANGIE
10th January 2010, 03:26 PM
So is disconnecting it as simple as unplugging the vac lines to them or do you just unplug the solenoids on the side??
Blknight.aus
10th January 2010, 03:42 PM
both methods work.
I prefer replacing it with a blanking kit.
LOVEMYRANGIE
10th January 2010, 04:24 PM
It's just a temporary thing till I get back from holidays.
Just unplugged the vac lines.
Got a bit bored thismorning so started nosing around the donk.
Found that the plastic tube on the wastegate solenoid was broken and someone loosly glued it on without the spigot.....
The turbo intake hose had split where the breather slips in, temporary fix is now alfoil and a wide band hoseclamp till I get back.
Will get a kit from Tombie when I am back later this week.
Oh, and one other thing, took off engine cover, started engine and cam plug was that loose it rattled out only to be held in by the conduit running across it!
Re bent tags to hold it and added a little Curil gasket cement to it.
So it looks like I gained a little more shed time while the devils spawn are still on holidays!!
Cheers
Andrew
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.