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View Full Version : GVM minus Tare Weight Equals ?????



Slater
24th December 2009, 08:20 PM
Hi all and seasons greetings to one & all.

I am buying a 1995 Goldstream Storm off road & am trying to work out the ball weight. All I have is Tare weight=990kgs. & GVM = 1220.

I have contacted Goldstream & been told "from memory approx 150kgs."

Really need to know before I travel 6 1/2 hrs to pick it up. My 1999 Land Rover 300Tdi Defender has 150kgs Ball Weight stamped on the the Hayman Reese towbar plate.

Some years ago, when considering buying a heavier pop top I visited the local Hayman Reese distributor & was given a new plate with 250kg Ball Weight on it.

As I didn't get the pop top I didn't put the new plate on. Now I need to know whether or not I need to...because it is a bit of a hassle to get to & disconnect the dual batteries in the Landy. Particularly if it isn't necessary.

Can anyone help me with this??:(

Blknight.aus
25th December 2009, 02:46 PM
the sum aggregate mass you can have applied to the vehicle.

if that comes out at 500kg and you have a 250kg ball weight applied to the tow hitch then you can only put 250kg in the vehicle.

remember downforce weight is NOT the weight of the trailer. just how much weight the tow hitch pushes down with.

alien
25th December 2009, 03:59 PM
Hi all and seasons greetings to one & all.

I am buying a 1995 Goldstream Storm off road & am trying to work out the ball weight. All I have is Tare weight=990kgs. & GVM = 1220.

I have contacted Goldstream & been told "from memory approx 150kgs."

Really need to know before I travel 6 1/2 hrs to pick it up. My 1999 Land Rover 300Tdi Defender has 150kgs Ball Weight stamped on the the Hayman Reese towbar plate.

Some years ago, when considering buying a heavier pop top I visited the local Hayman Reese distributor & was given a new plate with 250kg Ball Weight on it.

As I didn't get the pop top I didn't put the new plate on. Now I need to know whether or not I need to...because it is a bit of a hassle to get to & disconnect the dual batteries in the Landy. Particularly if it isn't necessary.

Can anyone help me with this??:(

Usualy ball weight is 10% of trailer weight.(I like a bit more)
Your van from above...(assuming these are the figures given)
Tare.........990Kgs
GVM........1220Kgs

This allows you to load 230Kgs into the van.
GVM @ 10%= 122Kgs Tow Ball Weight.
GVM @ 12%= 146.4Kgs Tow Ball Weight.

As BKN said, your down weight isn't your total weight.

Lotz-A-Landies
25th December 2009, 06:25 PM
All these formulae are guestimates. Rule of thumb if you like, which make assumptions about how much of the weight of the trailer is applied to the tow-ball.

Tow-ball weight can be manipulated by the way a trailer is loaded. Design of the trailer and how it's weight is balanced.
How heavy a load item is.
position of item for or aft of the fulcrum (axle centre)e.g a 20 kg mass placed over the tow-ball will add 20 Kg to the tow-ball weight. If the mass were placed over the axle it would add zero to the tow-ball weight and placed to the rear of the axle will subtract tow-ball weight.

slug_burner
25th December 2009, 09:07 PM
To answer the question in your title

GVM-tare = payload (or capacity)

Towball weight will be as per Lotz-A-Landies post dependant on the design of the van and the load distribution in the van. I doubt that a van of 1200kgs will have a towball weight of greater than 150 kgs.

You need a set of scales under the coupling to establish towball weight or you need to get onto a weighbridge. Place only the van wheels on the bridge while coupled to your towball, take a reading. Then place the van on a jockey wheel and put the van wheels and jockey wheel onto the bridge. The difference between the two will be your towball weight.

weeds
25th December 2009, 09:24 PM
what about braking and a brake controller, i would be more worried about this (not that i ever setup or used the brakes on my pop top) rather than the tow ball weight

Blknight.aus
26th December 2009, 02:50 PM
I wouldnt be worried about the brake setup. you should be able to tow the trailer without brakes Relying on trailer brakes to help you is a potentially deadly move. Its nice when they work and help out but you dont want to be putting yourself in a situation you cant control if they dont work.

If they have them, work out a way of temporarily disabling them and gingerly try to find the limits of your vehicle somewhere safe and controlled. Its not something you want to find out the hard unexpected way.

It only takes one bad electrical connection to stop the electric brakes, a slipped or snapped cable to stop the generic over run type or a leaking union to stop the hydraulic type.

Slater
26th December 2009, 06:35 PM
what about braking and a brake controller, i would be more worried about this (not that i ever setup or used the brakes on my pop top) rather than the tow ball weight

Yes I have installed a Tekonsha P3.

Slater
26th December 2009, 06:46 PM
I wouldnt be worried about the brake setup. you should be able to tow the trailer without brakes Relying on trailer brakes to help you is a potentially deadly move. Its nice when they work and help out but you dont want to be putting yourself in a situation you cant control if they dont work.

If they have them, work out a way of temporarily disabling them and gingerly try to find the limits of your vehicle somewhere safe and controlled. Its not something you want to find out the hard unexpected way.

It only takes one bad electrical connection to stop the electric brakes, a slipped or snapped cable to stop the generic over run type or a leaking union to stop the hydraulic type.

Point taken but in NSW we are required to have "From 750kg to 2,000kg GTM, efficient brakes are required on at least one axle".

Anyway I have now had further information that the ball weight is 140k.g. So all is now good & we pick her up next Saturday, adjust Tekonsha P3 as needed & see how the 300Tdi Defender goes pulling the 600 or so Kms back.
Based on that I'll decide whether or not to pursue an upgraded intercooler, Dyno Tune or whatever may be needed.

slug_burner
26th December 2009, 07:50 PM
Point taken but in NSW we are required to have "From 750kg to 2,000kg GTM, efficient brakes are required on at least one axle".

Anyway I have now had further information that the ball weight is 140k.g. So all is now good & we pick her up next Saturday, adjust Tekonsha P3 as needed & see how the 300Tdi Defender goes pulling the 600 or so Kms back.
Based on that I'll decide whether or not to pursue an upgraded intercooler, Dyno Tune or whatever may be needed.

book it in for the tune now.

Pedro_The_Swift
26th December 2009, 07:53 PM
Dont forget,,
That 150kg is added to your vehicle weight,,

basically it comes OFF the amount of stuff you can carry INSIDE the car,,

Slater
28th December 2009, 10:01 PM
book it in for the tune now.

Hey slug_burner, does this mean you advocate a tune rather than an upgraded intercooler? Any further info; or reasons for this choice, would love to know.:)

Blknight.aus
29th December 2009, 08:12 AM
Id do the intercooler first.

theres plenty of people about who can seat of the pants the pump adjustment to get it just where you want it.

theres a couple of threads with links to howto on and off forum.

slug_burner
31st December 2009, 12:49 AM
Hey slug_burner, does this mean you advocate a tune rather than an upgraded intercooler? Any further info; or reasons for this choice, would love to know.:)

What I meant was that if your decision to do something to your vehicle was going to be delayed until after your 600km tow of a trailer, then you can save time and book in for a tune now. Not too many find the performance that great and there is room for improvement.

I don't belive there is much point in tweaking the pump unless you upgrade your I/C.

Slater
31st December 2009, 07:41 AM
What I meant was that if your decision to do something to your vehicle was going to be delayed until after your 600km tow of a trailer, then you can save time and book in for a tune now. Not too many find the performance that great and there is room for improvement.

I don't belive there is much point in tweaking the pump unless you upgrade your I/C.

Thanks for this clarification. All the best for 2010.:)

Slater
4th January 2010, 10:42 PM
Well we went from Coffs Harbour to Glossodia Saturday 2nd. & picked up the Goldstream Storm camper van. Travelled down @ speed limits 100 & 110kph where allowed, a total of 549 kms.

On the trip down we used 9.21 litres/ 100kms, & on the way back with the camper van, (990k.g. tare mass) we managed 10.82litres/100k.m.s travelling largely at 90 - 95 k.p.h.

The 300 Tdi Defender performed wonderfully, I'm more than happy with the way it all went.

Now all I've got to do is convince the XYL of the need not to feel every storage nook & cranny has to be filled!!!!!:confused:

alien
5th January 2010, 06:34 PM
Now all I've got to do is convince the XYL of the need not to feel every storage nook & cranny has to be filled!!!!!:confused:

Bribes work at my place,
" If you fill it now you'll have no room to put all those nic nacs you buy
It's all right fill it up, I'll use your nic nac money for more modifications"
Can't tell you the responce, the are rules ree sweering:cool: