HELP! Simpson Dryer killing me

[PhilipA]

OK now I have your attention. Completely off topic. I have a Simpson Sirocco 550 dryer now about 6-7 years old. It is electronically controlled and reverses direction in theory. The electronic timer seems to work OK , and it still dries well and all sensors work. However about 3 years ago it started going in one direction only ( go-stop -go same direction) , so I paid $140 for a new controller board. That lasted about a week before the thing resumed going in only one direction. So after many cries of "look at my twisted sheets" I raised myself to have a look again, and I found that the A_B relay that switched the motor direction had the A contacts stuck. I ordered a new relay from RS components and today replaced the old one. Well it once again lasted about 30 minutes before resuming one way operation. I assume the A points have stuck closed again. So what would cause the current to the motor to increase to the extent that it fuses the relay points rated at 16 amps together? Should I buy a new motor and replace the relay once again? Or should I give up and buy a new dryer? Any help by those savvy in the mysteries of electrical appliances is most welcome. Regards Philip A NB its not me that has left out all the punctuation, its Firefox once again.

[Lionel]

OK now I have your attention. Completely off topic. I have a Simpson Sirocco 550 dryer now about 6-7 years old. It is electronically controlled and reverses direction in theory. The electronic timer seems to work OK , and it still dries well and all sensors work. However about 3 years ago it started going in one direction only ( go-stop -go same direction) , so I paid $140 for a new controller board. That lasted about a week before the thing resumed going in only one direction. So after many cries of "look at my twisted sheets" I raised myself to have a look again, and I found that the A_B relay that switched the motor direction had the A contacts stuck. I ordered a new relay from RS components and today replaced the old one. Well it once again lasted about 30 minutes before resuming one way operation. I assume the A points have stuck closed again. So what would cause the current to the motor to increase to the extent that it fuses the relay points rated at 16 amps together? Should I buy a new motor and replace the relay once again? Or should I give up and buy a new dryer? Any help by those savvy in the mysteries of electrical appliances is most welcome. Regards Philip A NB its not me that has left out all the punctuation, its Firefox once again.

If the relay contacts have fused again, then the motor is drawing too much current - maybe due to a winding fault.

If you can get access to a clamp meter you may be able to measure the AC current coming in on the power cord, and this might provide a clue. The motor, if it's directional, will probably be DC though, and will need a DC ammeter for direct measurement.

These motors are often the cause of failure in these sort of appliances, and the replacement of the motor is usually uneconomic.

You will probably need to get a new dryer, I'm sorry to say.

Cheers,

Lionel

PS. 6-7 years is considered a good life for most laundry appliances these days. :(

[Blknight.aus]

check the start assist feature of the motor it should be a set of capacitors or a throw out switch inside the motor thats ment to change the circuit inside the motor when it starts if this is fused the motor will consistantly draw high current and burn contacts.

My power hacksaw does the same thing taking out its on off switch aboutevery year or so but I havent been able to source a start cap for it so its been left out which increased the life of the switch but means i have to help the saw to start

[101 Ron]

I have found the best place for white goods parts is the local tip.
most tips now have a separate dumping area for washing machines and white goods.
All the popular models are there and the parts are free if they dont see ya borrowing them.

[abaddonxi]

Usually listed as motor run capacitor or motor start capacitor. RS has a lot of them.

[V8Ian]

Did you by any chance buy the dryer from Ron?;)

[PhilipA]

Did you by any chance buy the dryer from Ron?

No, it did run 4 years or so, which would not be possible for a Ron appliance.
It just bugs me to scrap it when it works at 90-95% , and the only problem is a capacitor and relay.
Its a Land Rover thing.
Regards Philip A

[DeeJay]

I know - from being a Simpson sales rep for 10 years- that we used to have issues with reversing washing machines (instead of gearboxes) when there were voltage drops - especially Solar. Reversing dryers came in after I left, but its possible there isn't enough amps to run the 2000w plus be able to reverse the motor, so its fusing the contacts. Just a hunch though.

[PhilipA]

Thanks DeeJay,
But it did it in my house in Mona Vale and now in Avoca Beach.

The capacitor idea sounds right as my house was third from the ocean and everything rusted in or near the laundry. There was lots of moisture and if it was a paper capacitor that could be the reason.

Exactly the same happened to the previous dryer.
Regards Philip A

[PhilipA]

How about if I Bodged the problem by assuming that the capacitor in the motor has gone short circuit and just add a capacitor to the A and B circuits by soldering into the wire run????

Regards Philip A

[Don 130]

You might get help if you try this site. It has an australian section, I used advice from here to successfully diagnose and repair my fisher and paykel washing machine. Haven't used it for a while though. Good luck Don

UK Whitegoods (http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk)

[Blknight.aus]

How about if I Bodged the problem by assuming that the capacitor in the motor has gone short circuit and just add a capacitor to the A and B circuits by soldering into the wire run????

Regards Philip A

the capacitor if fitted is almost invriabley external to the motor. without it in place you wind up like my power hacksaw, you need to give it a push to start.