LR Transport Advice

[Dmmos]

Just looking for some advice on the following;

I've found a Series 3 SWB (:cool:) that appears to be what I want, and am trying to figure out how to transport it (650km). I've done a number of online quote applications with car transport/freight companies, and they are (slowly) filtering through, with the only one to come so far a cool $785 :eek: People I've talked too have suggested I should be able to find something around $400, however I need it to be door-to-door (the owner & I are too far away from depots for this to be cost effective).

Given this, I think I'd just tow it (my original intention), as this would also give me a chance to see the car before it's purchased. The driving doesn't bother me (I drive a lot), it's merely pricing that I wanted to check with the wiser members of AULRO...

I'd be driving a Range Rover (V8, 2003) and hiring a car carrier from moveyourself (http://www.moveyourself.com.au/) for $119 (24 hours).

Fuel consumption for the car is around 14l/100km (premium :() - or at least that's what I read in a few places for this model, highway of course.

The trailer weighs 750kg, and it seems I'd be driving up with it (I can't find anything going one-way, and if I could the common hire period less than 24 hours - 9 hours - isn't a great deal cheaper (and I'd worry about going over this)).

Ultimately, how much more fuel would I use on the way up? After doing some research, it'd seem around 17l/100km on the way there, 20-23l/100km on the way down - although these figures are more of a guesstimate than anything else...

Following on from this, I calculate the cost of fuel to be;

(17*6.5) + (21.5*6.5) = 250.25*price of premium (1.30?)

= $325

Does this seem correct? Have I significantly over/under estimated how much I'd need?

Also, given that I haven't done a great deal of towing, I've done a little studying but does anybody here have any good tips?

Thanks in advance to the AULRO Brains Trust!

(And apologies to most of you, for what I'm sure is a very mundane question!)

Cheers,
Dave.

BTW the trip is straight up the Pacific Highway - I've never driven it, is there anything worth mentioning?

Thanks again!

Bugger - just read this and realised I won't be doing only highway driving (but it should be the vast majority of the trip...)

[V8Ian]

Load the trailer with the weight favouring the front of the trailer, you skould be able to lift the tow cup, just. Don't travel above 90kph, for safety and economy. Read the road well in advance, you are controlling (I hope) twice the normal weight that you are used to, and dont rely on the trailer brakes for much assistance with their task, usually there're not up to it. If possible chain the rear axle to the back of the trailer, keeping the chain as parellel as you can to the deck. Secure each wheel to the trailer with a ratchet strap, kept as short as possible. Make sure the car is in 1st or reverse low range, with the parking brake on. If the car is going to move in transit, it will be most likely forward, under braking. I've seen some scarry car trailer loading, even on this site; it's a wonder more cars don't part company with the trailer there they're on, or do we not hear about them?

[Dmmos]

Thanks for some very helpful advice!

Would it be best to have it in reverse (it might sound pedantic, but I want to be as safe as possible)?

[V8Ian]

Thanks for some very helpful advice!

Would it be best to have it in reverse (it might sound pedantic, but I want to be as safe as possible)?
Never with a front engined car.

[Dmmos]

Is a Land Rover Series 3 a front engined car?










:p




I meant reverse gear, but it's good to know that too!

[V8Ian]

Is a Land Rover Series 3 a front engined car?










:p




I meant reverse gear, but it's good to know that too!
If it's put together correctly, but we've all heard the horror stories about LR QC.:D:D
I don't think it makes that much difference, if any, aren't series 1st and reverse gears the same ratio?

[HUE166]

Load the trailer with the weight favouring the front of the trailer, you skould be able to lift the tow cup, just. Don't travel above 90kph, for safety and economy. Read the road well in advance, you are controlling (I hope) twice the normal weight that you are used to, and dont rely on the trailer brakes for much assistance with their task, usually there're not up to it. If possible chain the rear axle to the back of the trailer, keeping the chain as parellel as you can to the deck. Secure each wheel to the trailer with a ratchet strap, kept as short as possible. Make sure the car is in 1st or reverse low range, with the parking brake on. If the car is going to move in transit, it will be most likely forward, under braking. I've seen some scarry car trailer loading, even on this site; it's a wonder more cars don't part company with the trailer there they're on, or do we not hear about them?


G'day V8Ian,

I've moved a lot of machinery by road in my time and I would have to say that having the SIII in gear with the handbrake on is presenting the risk of grinding teeth and binding brake shoes. Have you transported machinery like this often??

I would personally use reliable restraints ad leave the vehicle restrained but out of gear and no brake applied.

Cheers.:)

[Grumbles]

I'm not sure about a 2003 RR but would you have to lock the Air Suspension into Standard Ride Hight like earlier model RRs when towing. And help the tranny by selecting 3 when encountering hills and either 3 or 2 when descending to help both tranny and brakes?????? :confused:

[isuzurover]

If it's put together correctly, but we've all heard the horror stories about LR QC.:D:D
I don't think it makes that much difference, if any, aren't series 1st and reverse gears the same ratio?

No, common misconception. Reverse is taller than 1st on series 1-IIA boxes, and lower than first on S111 boxes.

So Reverse LOW with the FWH (if fitted) engaged would be best.

[V8Ian]

G'day V8Ian,

I've moved a lot of machinery by road in my time and I would have to say that having the SIII in gear with the handbrake on is presenting the risk of grinding teeth and binding brake shoes. Have you transported machinery like this often??

I would personally use reliable restraints ad leave the vehicle restrained but out of gear and no brake applied.

Cheers.:)
Many years experience on heavy haulage, admittedly I don't recall any machinary with manual type transmission. I have also done car carrying, all cars are transported in gear or park, with handbrake applied. This is not intended as the primary restraint, but a secondary safety method in case of primary restraint failure. Have you ever tried restraining a rubber tyred vehicle whilst it is in neutral? I also used to transport cars in fridge vans, the only restraint being the old tyres the car would be sitting in.;)

[HUE166]

Fair enough I supose. I was just worried that the constant rocking on the journey would wreak havok with the teeth that were holding the SIII.

[pop058]

I tend to agree with HUE166. I have towed race cars on trailers over most of the eastern states and to/from the NT and have never put the vehicles in gear. If the hand brake works on the rear wheels, then maybe apply it, but not if it is on the back of the box (eg. series Landies). If the vehicle is tied down correctly using wheels, suspension, etc. then it should not move. The rest of the car should be free to move on it's own suspension. A 2nd safety chain can be applied if required although this should not take any tie down weight off the primary gear and don't use the trailer winch cable to secure the vehicle.
Leaving the vehicle in gear has the risk of damaging gearboxes. Professional transport companies use simple chain/webbing slings over wheels to hold cars down.

attached pic taken at pickup in Cairns for trip back to Bundy. 2A had 2 individual straps at front and single at rear. An additional (non-tensioned) safety chain was fitted to back up the single rear hold down.

Paul

[V8Ian]

I tend to agree with HUE166. I have towed race cars on trailers over most of the eastern states and to/from the NT and have never put the vehicles in gear. If the hand brake works on the rear wheels, then maybe apply it, but not if it is on the back of the box (eg. series Landies). If the vehicle is tied down correctly using wheels, suspension, etc. then it should not move. The rest of the car should be free to move on it's own suspension. A 2nd safety chain can be applied if required although this should not take any tie down weight off the primary gear and don't use the trailer winch cable to secure the vehicle.
Leaving the vehicle in gear has the risk of damaging gearboxes. Professional transport companies use simple chain/webbing slings over wheels to hold cars down.

attached pic taken at pickup in Cairns for trip back to Bundy. 2A had 2 individual straps at front and single at rear. An additional (non-tensioned) safety chain was fitted to back up the single rear hold down.

Paul
If the car is properly secured it will not be rocking, in or out of gear. As I have stated, being in gear is a secondary security, in case of primary failure. I will stand by my method, it has served me well over 100s of thousands of kilometres.

[pop058]

If the car is properly secured it will not be rocking, in or out of gear. As I have stated, being in gear is a secondary security, in case of primary failure. I will stand by my method, it has served me well over 100s of thousands of kilometres.

concur and ditto

[Blknight.aus]

any vehicle should be restrained primarily by its anchorings.

on a series I go round the front and rear diff with chains tightening the rear first then hammering a pair of wheel chocks into the front tyres before pulling the front chain in.

If Im going long distances then I also lower the tyre pressures before loading adn once everythngs tied down and lashed pump them up again for that little extra pressure.

parking and any secondary braking device activated (where possable) and with the auto in park OR the manual in a low gear.

inlets and exhausts should be covered.

[V8Ian]

any vehicle should be restrained primarily by its anchorings.

on a series I go round the front and rear diff with chains tightening the rear first then hammering a pair of wheel chocks into the front tyres before pulling the front chain in.

If Im going long distances then I also lower the tyre pressures before loading adn once everythngs tied down and lashed pump them up again for that little extra pressure.

parking and any secondary braking device activated (where possable) and with the auto in park OR the manual in a low gear.

inlets and exhausts should be covered.
If turboed, with external inlet.

[slug_burner]

rules are there to be questioned or as they say "for the abolute adherance of fools and the guidance of wise men"

I have found that with SWB vehicles like 80" it is best to put them on backwards. The bulk of the weight ends up over the trailer wheels and the rest of the vehicle provides a weight biase towards the front of the trailer.

Heard about the zipper effect?

Why would you want your secondary strap/chain to be loose? The only thing I can see happening is that the load can work on one set of straps unhindered by the secondary, once through that can build up momentum and hit the secondary set. Divide and conquer is another term that describes that approach.

[Blknight.aus]

If turboed, with external inlet.

on any external vent or engine aparture.

the logic for it being the same for turbo or not.

Most engines have some valve overlap and air flowing through from vehicle dynamics can draw moisture and bad air through the engine occasionally in the wrong direction.

With a turbo this can spin the turbocharger over while its not receiving oil from the engine. Ive heard and debunked the story that the engine can be made to start by the pressure created in the system from towing. While a little air can flow through the valves when they are on the rock a few degrees of movement on the crank takes them off the rock and the airpath through the engine is closed. Internal friction and compression on the next cylinder stops the engine real quick. You then face the problem of there being no fuel coming from the injectors on a diesel and no spark for the petrol.


shrouding the radiator is also a good idea.


Loading backwards is sometimes preferable depending on the weight distribution. If you cant get the downforce or axle weights right loading forwards its time to load backwards or reconfigure the load.

[Dmmos]

A huge thank you to the people who have posted here - you've all been extremely helpful...

I'll let you know how it goes :o

[isuzutoo-eh]

when towing trailers, don't take corners too tightly and make sure you indicate well in advance of changing lanes, though people still try and rush past to get in front.

[hodgo]

Many years experience on heavy haulage, admittedly I don't recall any machinary with manual type transmission. I have also done car carrying, all cars are transported in gear or park, with handbrake applied. This is not intended as the primary restraint, but a secondary safety method in case of primary restraint failure. Have you ever tried restraining a rubber tyred vehicle whilst it is in neutral? I also used to transport cars in fridge vans, the only restraint being the old tyres the car would be sitting in.;)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++

I must agree Ian I have carted all types of earth moving machinery, cars and trucks on floats and tilt trays over the years and the golden rule has always been and allway will to my way of thinking, handbrake on select lowest gear possible, as you say it is secondary saftey. I have never seen or heard of any drive line damage caused by this method .

Hodgo