County Vents - Again

[Prop]

Guys,

I have read the project section and searched the other thrreads and see how to remove evrything from the County Dash and how to do the vents. TAM242 had a list of parts needed to complete the change from AC to Vents and I was wondering if anybody had a copy of that or could help. It is too hot in QLD for no vents.

I need to source the Vent Covers and a fender heater box and any plastic bits for the interior.

[MacFamily]

I dont know if already read this thread but DeeJay did a great job and has a list of parts to source.Hope this helps

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/88005-fitting-air-vents-county.html

[Prop]

Thanks, I did read the need to get the parts list.

ta

[MacFamily]

Here you go Prop search is your friend http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/34045-remove-c-replace-vents-2.html

4th post down

[DeeJay]

I;m not sure if this list is on any of the above links, sorry about the longhand..

Overview.
This document covers the parts and the steps required to convert a 1985 County with factory Air Conditioning (Closed vents) to have opening vents.
When ordering the parts ask that they also supply all of the bolts, screws plugs etc that they remove from the donor vehicle.
This document has pages from a 1985 parts manual and does not have some of the items required, for example if the radio is moved to be mounted vertically on the Trim Panel I do not have a picture for this part.
The task from start to finish took less than one day.
Some of the existing parts could be changed but is most cases it will extend the length of the conversion.
Some of the parts can come from a Series 3, the Ventilator lids came from a series 3 as a friend was wrecking one at the time.
The little hinge sections which are spot welded onto the firewall can be spot welded back on or can be pop riveted on. (These have to be drilled off the donor vehicle).
The vehicle we stripped had a series 3 heater already fitted so no changes were required to the heater.
If the air conditioned heater and fan were left in place then the wiring may have to be changed to suit the aircon fan.

Stripping your vehicle.
We removed all of the current dash bits and pieces from our vehicle leaving just the dash panel with the speedo and gauges hanging loosely by the wires.
Keep all of the parts in separate bins to make it easier to put bits back.
The screws (2) which hold the front panel on are hidden inside the vents, remove the vents to get at these screws. Also there should be one screw from inside the speedo dash section.
You will be able to remove a large section of wiring for the Air conditioning as it is no longer needed. The wires for the new heater control are there and have tape covering each end. The fan motor with these new wires has power at the motor at all times and the switch earths the wires coming back from the motor.
Once all of the parts have been removed the two vent blocking panels can be removed.
Do not fit the under dash section or you will not be able to get at the bottom spot welds.
Drill out the spot welds from the inside of the car by first drilling a small hole say 3mm in each of the spot welds through the blanking plate only do not drill too far. Once this has been done then drill the holes out to say 10mm again making sure you only drill through the blanking plate. Once all of the spot welds have been drilled out move to the outside of the car and tap the blanking plate with a hammer and punch around the edge of the opening, if the blanking plate does not come away easily then drill those particular holes a little deeper. Some of the spot welds are hard to see and are easily missed.
If the edge has been damaged during the removal of the blanking plate then fix that damage.
Fit the new rubbers around the vent opening, this will allow time for the glue to dry before you fit the vent covers. Use a clear glue if possible as it is very hard to not get glue on the paint work.
If the closing panel is not fitted to the dash bottom fit this before you fit the dash bottom as it is difficult to get to all of the screws once it is in.
Fit the bottom section of the dash, ensuring that the switch panel for the rear wiper, right hand speaker, hazards and interior light are reconnected and refitted as well as the centre gauge and switch panel in the centre of the dash, holes may need to be cut to fit the gauge(s), switches.
Do not fit the dash top as this will make it hard to fit the cover panel.
Fit the parcel tray, care will need to be taken with the wires while fitting this. We had to make the slot in this panel wider for the wires to pass through.
Fit the vents by riveting them to the firewall, you can use three rivet per hinge plate or just one if you are going to weld the plates on.
Fit the left hand side splash cover and the two fly screens.
Fit the main panel along with the demister vents, hoses and grommets.
If you have later demister vents they will not fit unless you cut the ends off, the cover will be difficult to fit and will need modifying if you use later demisters.
Fit the levers which control the vents, the outer bolts are hard to line up.
Fit the heater levers and switches, which cables, levers you use will depend on the type of heater you have, the cable which opens the foot vents and the cable to open and shut the water valve will be used in all cases BUT the other on the switch lever was not used in our conversion as a series 3 heater had been fitted.
The heater power supply is different than expected, power is supplied to the heater at all times and is switched to earth through the heater switch, two speeds one with a resister and the other without. If you are using a series 3 heater ensure the motor is no longer earthed.
Refit the main dash bottom plate and dash itself.
Fit the cover plate over the dash. This is held on by push pegs, two main ones and several smaller ones, the holes for the lower plugs may have to be drilled.
Refit the cover strip along the top of the dash bottom.
Refit the hand grip on the left hand side.
Refit the dash top.
Refit the demister plates, see note if you used later demister tubes.
Next spend a couple of hours tidying up the wires, fit missing screws
Fit the plastic cover over Centre Gauges.
Fit the cover over wires from main dash to the exit through the firewall, we made our own out of 1.5mm aluminium.
Fit the Radio mount, we made our own out of 1.5mm aluminium, it would have been easier to fit the old radio mount next to the steering wheel.


Item Numbers:
#1 Ventilator Lid Right Hand Side (can come from a Series 3)
#1 Ventilator Lid Left Hand Side (can come from a series 3)
#3 Sealing Rubber Right and Left Hand Side ($27 each)
#4 Flyscreen Left and Right Hand Sides
#6 Splash Plate Left Hand Side
#8 Ventilator Control Left and Right Hand Side (can come from a series 3)
#15 Front Plate Right Hand Drive (the existing plate could be modified but is properly not worth the effort.)

You also need the hinge sections which are normally spot welded to the firewall.

Item Numbers:
#13
#25 Trim Panel Right Hand Drive
#26 Drive Fasteners (2)
#27 Drive Fasteners (40
#28 Drive Screw (2)
#29 Washer plain (2)
#30 Spring Nut (2)


Other parts for Heater control
Item Numbers:
#2 Wiring harness (Other wires are already there to go to the heater motor)
# 6 Mounting Plate Right Hand Side
# 12 Cable
#15 Cable
#1 Control Assembly Right Hand Side
#3 Cable
#17 Label
#18 Label

Item Numbers:
#1 Parcel Tray Right Hand Drive
#14 Parcel Tray Right Hand Drive
#21 Closing Panel Right Hand Drive
#?? Gauge panel if you wish to put in the Clock, Rear wiper switch and Cigar Lighter
#1 was changed as the floor vents are operated by vacuum for air con dashes and by a cable for the new dash, I am sure this could be changed
You also will need the cover for the centre gauges and switches, the cover to cover the wires from the main dash to the exit through the firewall.

Item Numbers:
#1 Demister outlet Right Hand Side
#1 Demister outlet Left Hand Side
#4 Flexible Tubing (2 Required)
#5 Grommet (2 Required)



Good Luck, its worth it :D

[Prop]

Tahnsk Very Much fellas for great info. It fills the holes and fits very nicely with the otehr projects on the Tutorials Section.

Thaks Again.

[D110V8D]

Just finished this conversion on another County.....

re the hinge's which are spot welded to the firewall I used some off an early series 2? which are attached with screws so easy to remove. I cut them down and pop riveted them to the county. Much easier than drilling spot welds etc for this part.:)

Also I think it is far easier (if a little more expensive) to source a complete dash, heater etc from a Defender than to mix and match everything.

[tam242]

Prop

sorry, i cant find it anymore, i sourced all my parts from truimph rover spares in South Aus, around $450 for everything, however i used series three heater.

adrian