My rear no longer clunks!

[PaulMac]

Yes the title says it all, replaced the "A" frame ball joint over two painfully long afternoons. In a car park no less, also not exactly having the right tools for the job.
After purchasing the defer about a month ago and having known about the clunk (which felt like it had about as much lash as a southern American road gang) it is finally cured.
Painful job, but the sweet sound of nothingness between gear changes makes it all worth it!

Pic's attached, old versus new. 50-60 dollar mark from British offroad

[dmdigital]

You were lucky you got it out so easily Paul!

It pays to check the bushes on the A-frame for wear as well.

[gmeddy]

i just did mine too, it was not fun, i sheered one of the little bolts that holds the ball joint into the mount. I thought i'd be able to do it all without removing the mount from the A frame, because my mate said he'd done the job and it was easy. He didn't mention that I'd need a Hydraulic Bearing Press to get the new one into the housing - maybe when he did his for some reason he didn't need one...?
luckily i have access to one at my workplace.
I was able to get the whole job done in one afternoon.

still got a bit of a clunk when taking up drive tho if i dont baby the clutch a heap.
- maybe the A Frame Bushes??

[LRO53]

For $50-60 was it genuine?

ANR1799 REAR SUSPENSION BALL JOINT | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2867/ANR1799-REAR-SUSPENSION-BALL-JOINT.html'search=Ball%20Joint&page=1)

$50-60 sounds right for Genuine if it is. See how much the aftermarket ones are!! £8.99

[dullbird]

I paid $50 for an A frame ball joint for my disco and it is not genuine, although I specifically bought the one I did because I wanted a greasable one

[Xtreme]

i just did mine too, it was not fun, i sheered one of the little bolts that holds the ball joint into the mount. I thought i'd be able to do it all without removing the mount from the A frame, because my mate said he'd done the job and it was easy. He didn't mention that I'd need a Hydraulic Bearing Press to get the new one into the housing - maybe when he did his for some reason he didn't need one...?
luckily i have access to one at my workplace.
I was able to get the whole job done in one afternoon.

still got a bit of a clunk when taking up drive tho if i dont baby the clutch a heap.
- maybe the A Frame Bushes??

Would be advisable to also check for wear between the rear axle splines and the hub drive members. If you have greased wheel bearings then the splines/drive members are prone to wear - better to convert to oil fed wheel bearings.

[Dave_S]

I just did mine - painful even with a press. Looks like I paid too much for the part too. The first one I did stretched over 4 days and I broke/bent 4 spanners:o

[PaulMac]

Feel your pain Dave, I did the bulk of mine over to afternoons after work. But that was in Gove NT heat. I think I lost about 2kg of water in sweat each time.

[LRO53]

Would be advisable to also check for wear between the rear axle splines and the hub drive members. If you have greased wheel bearings then the splines/drive members are prone to wear - better to convert to oil fed wheel bearings.

I'm interested in these oil feed rear wheel bearings where do you get them from? Is there a kit?

[kaa45]

Just leave out the extra oil seal....:D

[Xtreme]

I'm interested in these oil feed rear wheel bearings where do you get them from? Is there a kit?

No kit available - the only part you need is a new hub oil seal to replace the grease wiper that is fitted with greased bearings.
Numerous threads already written regarding the procedure - use the SEARCH menu above and be prepared for a bit of reading.

[Sketer]

The rubber boot needs replacing on the ball joint on mine. Does anyone know if you can purchase just the rubber boot? The ball joint feels fine.

Cheers
Sketer