Castor correction & uni's

[DRanged]

OK
Thought I'd post this thread so we didn't hijack Busmans anymore.
Below are 2 photos of my RRC set up, which is

4" spring lift
castor corrected swivels
Standard radius arms with genuine bushes
Toughdog panhard rod to handle the angle change
Standard chassis crossmember
610mm pin to pin shocks

What I dont agree with is if you fit cranked radius arms, the diff will rotate down in the direction of the arrow, yes! This will increase the angle of the uni out of the trans case. It will increase the down angle of the drive shaft. It will change the angle of the uni at the diff end which is excellent as is. Mind you the drive shaft will be almost touching the crossmember and this is on flat ground with no down travel or articulation

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/01/854.jpg
Unless you want a bigger lift etc I cant see why people argue that cranked arms are a better option for the uni's and drive shaft. I've had this set up for near 10 years and not a vibration or uni failure?????
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/01/855.jpg
As the photos show the uni angles are fine for a 4" lift. Even on full articulation the shaft and crossmember dont touch (not by much though) Yes the angle of the trans uni is more than standard but I use a wide yoke original shaft with no failures.

To all non GCLRO members on a club thread we were looking at the pro's and cons of castor corrected swivels vs cranked radius arms

Justin

[Grimace]

Cranked arms for the win!

Wayne (mate) recently fitted my old rovertym cranked arms to his 3" lifted rangie and claims it drives better now then stock :cool:

[Camo]

Castor corrected swivel housings would be 10 times better than cranked arms yeah?.. no effect to the driveshaft

Camo

[Grimace]

Castor corrected swivel housings would be 10 times better than cranked arms yeah?.. no effect to the driveshaft

Camo

NO!

Cranked arms return evrything to stock alignment and phase at ride height.
Yes driveshaft angle is increased but it's all in phase again.

IMHO anyone would be much better off with cranked arms.
More flex, more clearance, more strength, springs, shock & panhard mounts alligned to standard, releive chassis mount stress.

Then those with larger lifts and experiencing driveshaft issues, need to accept the responsibility that come along with huge lifts and upgrade accordingly.
Some get away with huge lifts and no driveshafts issues, other have issues at small lifts. Luck of the draw really!

[Camo]

NO!

Cranked arms return evrything to stock alignment and phase at ride height.
Yes driveshaft angle is increased but it's all in phase again.

IMHO anyone would be much better off with cranked arms.
More flex, more clearance, more strength, springs, shock & panhard mounts alligned to standard, releive chassis mount stress.

Then those with larger lifts and experiencing driveshaft issues, need to accept the responsibility that come along with huge lifts and upgrade accordingly.
Some get away with huge lifts and no driveshafts issues, other have issues at small lifts. Luck of the draw really!

OK!

you sort of make sense there ;) I'm still thinking of a cheaper way to fix my vibes.. but looks like $1400 of custom driveshafts for tom woods is the only way to fix mine. Joys of spring lifts :eek:

Camo

[dungarover]

Castor corrected swivel housings would be 10 times better than cranked arms yeah?.. no effect to the driveshaft

Camo

The joys of spring lift plus over 2 inch. If you do a lift over 2 inches it gets costly and neds to done properly as you have found out. As you have Pootrol front end the swivel is one piece so it's a much more complicated idea so cranked arms are the go for you.

One thing unique with a Land Rover and this is the only vehicle that you can do this is that the swivel is seperate from the axle itself, most other vehicles have a one-piece swivel and axle set-up.

On the subject of castor corrected swivels in one word yes this should cure your uni vibration issue. The swivels will return your uni shaft back to the std angle eliminiating the front uni vibration. It's also cheaper in the scheme of things and mine are getting sorted as we speak (should get about 3 deg of castor correction, I added a few mm extra to it to compensate for saggy springs, etc..). Plus for me, the silver bullet needed to get the death wobble sorted and fit the front air locker, so pulling it to bits was the perfect opputunity to get it done (have spare swivels so the bullet is still in one piece). The castor corrected swivels come with 2 extra holes so that they don't turn around under load and throw the castor out again so in effect you have 9 holes holding it to the axle not the 7 as per std (on 86 onward RRC and Discos this is).

I'm not here to argue what is best, all options work but I felt that this is the better option just a PIA if you don't have spare swivels as you need to pull the Rangie to bits to do so, get them sent off, etc... I have no intentions of lifting my Rangie over 2 inches, with a larger lift the other options may be more suitable.

Trav

[DRanged]

I have to disagree with you Grimace. Yes panhard bush angle changes but a simple tough dog unit or similar can fix that. Springs can easily handle a change in angle as can shock mount rubbers and radius rear mounts as they are more a static mount. Uni angle is way more important as it has to deal with a torque load as well as balance through its arc of movement. After all we are mostly talking about road going vehicles with say 35" tyres max and no more than 4" spring lift Yeh. Anything more than that IMHO would need a lot more work and probably not be on the road. When mine was engineered the fella was more than happy retaining the original Radius arms and properly slotting AND strenghtening the swivels. (my 6 bolt units are now 8 bolt) with the 2 extra along the bottom half of the swivel where the extra load is.

Dave sorry for hijacking you thread. I hope what we are talking about makes sense.

Proofs in the pudding as my RRC is absolutely vibration free and drives great for a 6" combined lift;).

Thats my set up anyway.
Justin

[dungarover]

NO!

Cranked arms return evrything to stock alignment and phase at ride height.
Yes driveshaft angle is increased but it's all in phase again.

IMHO anyone would be much better off with cranked arms.
More flex, more clearance, more strength, springs, shock & panhard mounts alligned to standard, releive chassis mount stress.

Then those with larger lifts and experiencing driveshaft issues, need to accept the responsibility that come along with huge lifts and upgrade accordingly.
Some get away with huge lifts and no driveshafts issues, other have issues at small lifts. Luck of the draw really!

Simple sollution, don't lift your Rangie too high :angel: This is why I don't do big lifts, too may hassles and too bloody $$$$ I don't have the greatest flex but my Rangies always go where everyone elses do.

I have to side with Justin here, castor swivels do the same in a less than flash sort of way, all you're doing is re-aligning the front end back to stock.

I just like simple and cheap as you know.

Trav

[Baffle]

Agreed, Its only to improve steering and handling
,4/5 inch max with standard arms. I had 6" lift and the car was not acceptable on the road, nearly but not good. I put a Dc in the back shaft and that did stop the rear vib ( only slight)

[Blknight.aus]

OK
Thought I'd post this thread so we didn't hijack Busmans anymore.
Below are 2 photos of my RRC set up, which is

4" spring lift
castor corrected swivels
Standard radius arms with genuine bushes
Toughdog panhard rod to handle the angle change
Standard chassis crossmember
610mm pin to pin shocks

What I dont agree with is if you fit cranked radius arms, the diff will rotate down in the direction of the arrow, yes! This will increase the angle of the uni out of the trans case. It will increase the down angle of the drive shaft. It will change the angle of the uni at the diff end which is excellent as is. Mind you the drive shaft will be almost touching the crossmember and this is on flat ground with no down travel or articulation

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/01/854.jpg
Unless you want a bigger lift etc I cant see why people argue that cranked arms are a better option for the uni's and drive shaft. I've had this set up for near 10 years and not a vibration or uni failure?????
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/01/855.jpg
As the photos show the uni angles are fine for a 4" lift. Even on full articulation the shaft and crossmember dont touch (not by much though) Yes the angle of the trans uni is more than standard but I use a wide yoke original shaft with no failures.

To all non GCLRO members on a club thread we were looking at the pro's and cons of castor corrected swivels vs cranked radius arms

Justin

the same argument goes for fitting the castor correction bushes.....

lift it and correct it and you can run out of deflection at the tcase end on full extention which tends to end badly.

[Baffle]

Justin your radius arms are really parallel,( in the pic) . do you run drop boxes ?

[DRanged]

Justin your radius arms are really parallel,( in the pic) . do you run drop boxes ?

No all standard outer diff casings.

Justin

[Grimace]

On the subject of castor corrected swivels in one word yes this should cure your uni vibration issue. The swivels will return your uni shaft back to the std angle eliminiating the front uni vibration.

Castor swivels will do absolutely nuthing for uni angles, they remain as were prior. There is no way a castor corrected swivel can change the uni angles. All it will change is the steering castor.
If you have a vibration in the unis, it will remain, unless you modify driveshafts or pinion angle to suit.

[dungarover]

Castor swivels will do absolutely nuthing for uni angles, they remain as were prior. There is no way a castor corrected swivel can change the uni angles. All it will change is the steering castor.
If you have a vibration in the unis, it will remain, unless you modify driveshafts or pinion angle to suit.

Not convinced sorry Grimace :(

As I explained in my last post,castort corrected swivels turn the axle upwards to re-align the uni angle so in theory this will give you std castor and uni angle, also yout trailing arms should return back to the std geometry as well. Even with a 2 inch lift it's still under load constantly let alone a 4 inch lift :eek:

When I fit mine up I could be wrong but that's what modding your LR is all about, trying differnt options and not one idea works for all. Castor correction is a first to me and I've had a gutful of wayward handling and for the time being it's a priority to drive well.

I'm not arguing that a cranked arm is the wrong or right option but for me castor swivels was the best and most cost effective.

Have a good one :cool:

Trav

[Grimace]

No convinced sorry Grimace :(

As I explained in my last post,castort corrected swivels turn the axle upwards to re-align the uni angle so in theory this will give you std castor and uni angle, also yout trailing arms should return back to the std geometry as well. Even with a 2 inch lift it's still under load constantly let alone a 4 inch lift :eek:

When I fit mine up I could be wrong but that's what modding your LR is all about, trying differnt options and not one idea works for all. Castor correction is a first to me and I've had a gutful of wayward handling and for the time being it's a priority to drive well.

I'm not arguing that a cranked arm is the wrong or right option but for me castor swivels was the best and most cost effective.

Have a good one :cool:

Trav

Trav, Castor corrected swivels dont turn the diff centres/housing/unis at all. I think you are confusing yourself or wording what your trying to say incorrectly?

I just want to state that castor swivels will not rotate your diff housing or uni angles at all.

I persoanlly don't have anything against castor corrected swivels, I think they are great. I simply prefer the added benefits of castor corrected (cranked) radius arms is all.

p.s. the only way to releive the bushes in the radius arm is to crank the arms or bend the chassis mount.

[dungarover]

Trav, Castor corrected swivels dont turn the diff centres/housing/unis at all. I think you are confusing yourself or wording what your trying to say incorrectly?

I just want to state that castor swivels will not rotate your diff housing or uni angles at all.

I persoanlly don't have anything against castor corrected swivels, I think they are great. I simply prefer the added benefits of castor corrected (cranked) radius arms is all.

Maybe I should keep my ideas to myself :angel: But it makes sense to me though.

Trav

[dungarover]

Just seen this thread after grimace and I are having a differing of opinion on the matter on Busman's thread. That pic proves what I was waffling on about.

At the end of the day, if you get the desired result that's what really matters so who gives a toss which way is the right way. Cranked arms on 4 inch lifted Rangies or more would probably be a better option as they're designed for the larger lift.

Trav

[Outlaw]

posts a touch out of order as shifted all the posts out of Busman's Members Ride thread but now all in one place :D

Let the debate continue :angel:

[Grimace]

posts a touch out of order as shifted all the posts out of Busman's Members Ride thread but now all in one place :D

Let the debate continue :angel:


You done a good job! :)

[Psimpson7]

Trav, Castor corrected swivels dont turn the diff centres/housing/unis at all. I think you are confusing yourself or wording what your trying to say incorrectly?

I just want to state that castor swivels will not rotate your diff housing or uni angles at all.

I persoanlly don't have anything against castor corrected swivels, I think they are great. I simply prefer the added benefits of castor corrected (cranked) radius arms is all.

p.s. the only way to releive the bushes in the radius arm is to crank the arms or bend the chassis mount.

Grimace is correct here Trav. Castor corrected swivels will have no bearing on pinion // uni angles etc. The swivels are roated around the hosuing, so the housing stays exactly where it was.

Rgds
Pete

[Slunnie]

Grimace is correct here Trav. Castor corrected swivels will have no bearing on pinion // uni angles etc. The swivels are roated around the hosuing, so the housing stays exactly where it was.

Rgds
Pete
Yup, Grimace is on the money.

[dungarover]

Grimace is correct here Trav. Castor corrected swivels will have no bearing on pinion // uni angles etc. The swivels are roated around the hosuing, so the housing stays exactly where it was.

Rgds
Pete

Went away and had a think about it and after reading Petes reply it makes sense to me now and what I was thinking wouldn't work. If it had been explianed like that I wouldn't have started the debate. I never said I was right but it makes sense since you put it that way :( Who's the idiot now :mad:

Trav

[Grimace]

It's ok, I had an incling you were confusing yourself all along. No one is an idiot.

[DRanged]

Hey all
The whole reasoning behind this is to state that cranked arms do change the angle of the uni,s and shaft in a negative direction. Trav, corrected swivels only change the steering geometry which Grimace pointed out. My point is why fit cranked arms when it is going to create problems due to increased uni angles. The point of the photos is to show that you can get away with a 4" lift and retain happy uni angles etc with standard radius arms. I would say anything over 4" you would need cranked arms etc to roll the diff back to help the panhard and spring mount etc. But you would need a flash front shaft with a double cardan joint etc and a modified crossmember.
Sorry to go on a bit but people keep saying cranked arms dont change the Uni angle. well yes it does. Unfortunately in a negative way.

Justin

[Tusker]

Hi all,

Following this thread with interest.

Why don't you consider a D2 front shaft? With the t/c flange suit, its a bolt in solution to uni problems.

The pic shows my front flex: Nothing exotic, just Landcrusher Bilsteins, Haultech holey bushes, slotted swivels, & the D2 shaft.

Regards
Max P

[Col.Coleman]

Just break it down into simple terms.

What happens?

As you increase the height between the diff housing and chassis with a fixed point of rotation you rotate the diff housing in an arc. In the case of the front diff it rotates the spring mounts forward and the pinion upward. It also rotates your set castor angle from a positive towards zero and sometimes into the negative.

To make your car steer comfortably at speed, ie not skittish, you need a positive castor angle, so you need some way of returning this.

Driveline angles work best with minimum deflection from zero degrees and matched(or as close to) angles on both uni's.

Up to a certain point, correcting just the swivels will return castor with acceptable driveline angle.

Beyond that point, the diff housing needs to be rotated back to align the spring and rod mounts, or alternatively these could be cut and rewelded.

I think the arguement from Justin is, why go for cranked arms and place increased deflection on the pinion end universal.

Depending on the application, both have their merit. I prefer the swivel method, but in saying that, in larger lifts, the cranked arms may help bring the 2 deflections closer together, rather than a small one at the pinion end and a large one at the gearbox end, thus possibly relieving driveline vibration.

CC

[dungarover]

Grimace, wasn't confusing myself it was more of a misunderstanding of the concept of castor correction that's all so it all now makes sense :). I'm no oxford schollar but I'm not a dumb **** either :mad::mad:

I have a simple sollution, don't overlift your Land Rover problem solved :)

Trav

[Slunnie]

Just break it down into simple terms.

What happens?

As you increase the height between the diff housing and chassis with a fixed point of rotation you rotate the diff housing in an arc. In the case of the front diff it rotates the spring mounts forward and the pinion upward. It also rotates your set castor angle from a positive towards zero and sometimes into the negative.

To make your car steer comfortably at speed, ie not skittish, you need a positive castor angle, so you need some way of returning this.

Driveline angles work best with minimum deflection from zero degrees and matched(or as close to) angles on both uni's.

Up to a certain point, correcting just the swivels will return castor with acceptable driveline angle.

Beyond that point, the diff housing needs to be rotated back to align the spring and rod mounts, or alternatively these could be cut and rewelded.

I think the arguement from Justin is, why go for cranked arms and place increased deflection on the pinion end universal.

Depending on the application, both have their merit. I prefer the swivel method, but in saying that, in larger lifts, the cranked arms may help bring the 2 deflections closer together, rather than a small one at the pinion end and a large one at the gearbox end, thus possibly relieving driveline vibration.

CC
Thats making the assumption that a standard propshaft is being used. As Tusker has stated, you can also run a Disco2 shaft with a Double cardin joint at the transfer end, which has an ideal setup of just off no angle from the pinion and whats required at the transfercase. This does away with the need to produce equal angles at both ends of the tailshaft.

[Col.Coleman]

Thats making the assumption that a standard propshaft is being used. As Tusker has stated, you can also run a Disco2 shaft with a Double cardin joint at the transfer end, which has an ideal setup of just off no angle from the pinion and whats required at the transfercase. This does away with the need to produce equal angles at both ends of the tailshaft.

Given that the discussion was centered around rangies and castor correction, no double cardan is a given. Fitting one, or a D2 shaft would only then be to fix a created problem.

A second arguement would also be, on a budget, slotting the balls is cheaper than buying cranked arms and a double cardan and new shaft.

I have a double cardan front shaft from a stage 1 laying around to go into mine:D

CC

[Slunnie]

Given that the discussion was centered around rangies and castor correction, no double cardan is a given. Fitting one, or a D2 shaft would only then be to fix a created problem.

A second arguement would also be, on a budget, slotting the balls is cheaper than buying cranked arms and a double cardan and new shaft.

I have a double cardan front shaft from a stage 1 laying around to go into mine:D

CC
CC the discussion according to the first post is about castor correction, slotted balls, cranked arms and pinion heights, angles and clearances. Everything in the thread is about created problems from lifts which is a reality of modifications and like slotted balls or cranked arms, DC joints are part of the fix and also there is no mention of budgets. :D

BTW those stage 1 DC joints are good ones!

[Grimace]

I will have to take some photos of my pinion angles. Stock and current. You will see the standard uni angles on a range rover are pretty much perfectly setup for a DC style shaft running in phase.

Also if you don't have to modify the standard cross member then your not getting much out of the suspension. I have had to remove over 2 inches of meat from my round crossmember just to clear the drive shaft on full droop.
The cranked arms make about 2mm of difference at the crossmember (fug all really). The minute difference to the running angle at the tcase end of the shaft is negligable (I would be interested to check the angles aswell to see how much it is changed/affected, my guess would be a total of 1.36 degrees:) ).

At the end of the day, I love my cranked arms and personally would never do it differently!

[Grimace]

Everything in the thread is about created problems from lifts which is a reality of modifications and like slotted balls or cranked arms, DC joints are part of the fix and also there is no mention of budgets. :D

Spot on dude!

Cranked arms are relatively cheap IMHO (can get em out of the states for the same cost of slotted swivels). In my case they were more expensive (about 1100 :eek:), mine are one piece construction and engineered.

[Camo]

CC the discussion according to the first post is about castor correction, slotted balls, cranked arms and pinion heights, angles and clearances. Everything in the thread is about created problems from lifts which is a reality of modifications and like slotted balls or cranked arms, DC joints are part of the fix and also there is no mention of budgets.

Thats it

I'm starting to go nuts with my rangie.. has 4" lift. Put 3 degree caster bushes in the front arms (GQ diff so can't rotate swivels). Rangie sits on the road great now. But the bushes caused too much driveshaft angle at the transfer. Spent 800 bucks on new driveshafts with larger unis which hardly made a difference :eek:

Now I have to go down the road of DC shafts (not cheap)

Camo

[Grimace]

Thats it

I'm starting to go nuts with my rangie.. has 4" lift. Put 3 degree caster bushes in the front arms (GQ diff so can't rotate swivels). Rangie sits on the road great now. But the bushes caused too much driveshaft angle at the transfer. Spent 800 bucks on new driveshafts with larger unis which hardly made a difference :eek:

Now I have to go down the road of DC shafts (not cheap)

Camo

Camo, I want to have a look at your shaft angles sometime to assess where the vibes are coming from.

Larger unis won't change a thing, if there is a phasing issue between both unis you will get a vibration.

I would guess your new shaft is running in phase on the splines and that your differential pinion is pointing up towards the tcase output (not parralel). If this is the case you need to remove your front shaft and rotate the spilnes 45degrees out of phase (as per rover standard) to corect the misalignment in the uni angles.
You might have to fine tune it a spline or two to get it right but it is possible.

Also have a look at the transmission mounts as they flog out quickly when subjected to such vibrations.

I am keen to give you a hand and getting this sorted for you, as with new shafts (even non DC) and a 4" lift you should be able to enjoy smooth shafting :D

EDIT: Obviously if the uni at the differential end is dead flat, then phase changing wont make a difference and a DC shaft is the only answer. But thats is highly unlikely and you should get an improvement from doing the above.

[disco_thrasher]

Thats it

I'm starting to go nuts with my rangie.. has 4" lift. Put 3 degree caster bushes in the front arms (GQ diff so can't rotate swivels). Rangie sits on the road great now. But the bushes caused too much driveshaft angle at the transfer. Spent 800 bucks on new driveshafts with larger unis which hardly made a difference :eek:

Now I have to go down the road of DC shafts (not cheap)

Camo
hey Camo
i carry a spare front dc shaft which has just been rebuilt and balanced at gibbs trucks very recently, if you want to put it in to see if it stops the vibes then at least you know it works before spending the money ,i am sure it will fit
cheers kelvin

[Camo]

4" lift you should be able to enjoy smooth shafting

LOL :D I like the sound of that

Will give you a call during the week to show you my shafts.. Keen to get this sorted..what ever it takes I guess

Cheers Grimace

Camo

[dungarover]

Grimace,

Surprised you had to mod your round crossmember as they're not too bad, the square ones you would for a big lift because it's a bit more tucked up into the chassis.

This is why I steer away from big lifts myself, you're always chasing your tail and it can drive you mad costing a pretty packet at the end of it. But each to there own and not many people go through Rangies like I do (takes me a while to find the 'right' one).

Trav

[Grimace]

Grimace,

Surprised you had to mod your round crossmember as they're not too bad, the square ones you would for a big lift because it's a bit more tucked up into the chassis.

Trav

Yeah I didn't think I would need to remove that much (I only took 2" out of my square crossmember in previous rangies).

[DRanged]

Yeah I didn't think I would need to remove that much (I only took 2" out of my square crossmember in previous rangies).

Ok class
I run a standard 85 model square crossmember and a 4" lift with standard wide yoke shaft. The shaft misses the crossmember by a couple of mm on full articulation. So I run 610mm full extension pin to pin shocks. You guys must be using bigger shocks or our RRC is a freak:cool: Although cranked arms would increase the down angle of the shaft I suppose. Is this why ??????

Justin

[Grimace]

Ok class
I run a standard 85 model square crossmember and a 4" lift with standard wide yoke shaft. The shaft misses the crossmember by a couple of mm on full articulation. So I run 610mm full extension pin to pin shocks. You guys must be using bigger shocks or our RRC is a freak:cool: Although cranked arms would increase the down angle of the shaft I suppose. Is this why ??????

Justin

Hmm odd, I would have expected yours to hit that crossmember, exspecially with 610mm shocks (is that base of pin to base of pin?).

IIRC my front Bilsteins are approx 650mm base of pin to base of pin so not much longer (405 compressed with a stroke of just 9.6" or 245mm).

Running standard driveshafts and cranked arms you loose about 2mm of clearance at the crossmember.
In my case I actually have not lost any clearance as the aftermarket DC joint protrudes further than a single uni, hence moving the shaft out and away from the crossmember (but only a very small amount).

I have found all my rangies to foul on the sqaure crossmember. This is my first modification to a round crossmember so can't really compare it with anything else.

[DRanged]

Grimace
650 - 610 is probably enough to cause problems but not to the extreme????

Justin

[disco_thrasher]

Grimace
650 - 610 is probably enough to cause problems but not to the extreme????

Justin

it makes me think i am getting 675 eye to eye procomps how much trouble is this gonna give me on my D2 as you guys are only running 610-650

oh well they ordered already guess i will find out :eek::twisted::eek:


Kelvin

[Grimace]

it makes me think i am getting 675 eye to eye procomps how much trouble is this gonna give me on my D2 as you guys are only running 610-650

oh well they ordered already guess i will find out :eek::twisted::eek:


Kelvin

That would be the equivalent of a pin to pin shock between the size of justins and mine.

Assuming the turrets are not shorter than the rangie and assuming you are moving up the spring height and rate, you should be ok. It's the compressed length you need to worry about.

Interested to see how it pans out!

[disco_thrasher]

That would be the equivalent of a pin to pin shock between the size of justins and mine.

Assuming the turrets are not shorter than the rangie and assuming you are moving up the spring height and rate, you should be ok. It's the compressed length you need to worry about.

Interested to see how it pans out!

the springs and shocks should work better than a sailor and a bottle of whiskey and a hooker with the info i have from Shane from suspension stuff
so we will know if it works sooner than later

[DRanged]

it makes me think i am getting 675 eye to eye procomps how much trouble is this gonna give me on my D2 as you guys are only running 610-650

oh well they ordered already guess i will find out :eek::twisted::eek:


Kelvin
I have a brand new set of EFS Extremes I ran for a couple of trips which are 650 base of pin to base of pin. My prop shaft just hit my cross member at full drop. Make sure you retain your springs mate:cool:

Justin

ps we run standard height towers as well