My attempt at spring bushes (still going) [Archive]

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Muckinhell

17th January 2010, 07:28 PM

Well today i tried and mostly with success replaced the passanger front leaf spring bushes, alas the chassis bush isnt playing the game, and you r prob thinking its not playing the game to come out but alas that was the easy part. So far the new one is sitting 9/10ths of the way into the chassis but it wont budge the last 15ml, so ill have to cut it out or if someone has some ideas on finishing the last 15ml that would be great. it just seems to be mushrooming now rather than moving.

I did start with the bush in the freezer then greased it and the chassis hole and it went half way in and then wouldnt move so I proceeded to replace the leaf spring bushes to give me a break from it and to let more crc soak in. I have been using an appropriate socket head to hammer it in with but that has its problems with just holding that on and getting enoupgh umph behind the hammer.I even ducked up to dick smiths and bought a can of freeze spray and used the whole can on the bush hoping to shrink it further as the freeze spray goes down to -50 but that didnt help at all.

oh well here are some pics of the days progress.
pic1 got the spring out no worries
pic2 the chassis bush i got out by cutting out a 5ml piece and it almost fell out, i was relieved when that came out so easy but the sawing took a bit.
pic3 the new bush in leaf spring
pic4 the new bush all the way home.
pic5 the coil spring that helps with the load of the pto winch.

Wolfman_TWP

17th January 2010, 09:19 PM

This is one of the reasons I'm not putting standard bushes back into my SWB. I've got a complete set of poly bushes to go in.. I put some into the shorty about 10 years ago, so they should come out quite easily. And they last as long, if not longer than the standard bushes.. (They cost a lot more, but I expect them to be better and last longer)

Good luck with repairs..

Wolf

Blknight.aus

17th January 2010, 11:36 PM

looks like the axle tube that the bush fits into is flogged out of round which is why you cant drift the new bush in.

punch it out from the other side give it a little love with an emery wheel on the side thats already in and see what that does for you.

IF that doesnt work you have 2 options

1. grind out the tube and have a new one welded in
2. convert it to the 3 piece poly bush.

Muckinhell

18th January 2010, 07:33 AM

pumching it out from the other side will be next to impossible as the motor and exhasut are in the way...think its cutting it out and going poly id say...

the old bush had worn right through and it was only sitting on the inner bush against the top of the outer bush so yeah its prob out of round as you say.
thanks for the replies.

Sleepy

18th January 2010, 09:38 AM

Can you make a tool with a long bolt, some flat washers and just wind it in.?

Psimpson7

18th January 2010, 09:44 AM

Can you make a tool with a long bolt, some flat washers and just wind it in.?

Do this, You can use sockets aswell if you like.

Muckinhell

18th January 2010, 06:58 PM

Wolfman_TWP

18th January 2010, 08:28 PM

nah sorry i did try and give the end a good tidy up by trying to hammer it back to shape and then retry the hammer and socket....but no success.

so i just melted the inner shaft out of the rubber and proceeded to hacksaw the bush out and will get my self some poly bushes as suggested and cross fingers it goes in ....now where will i get some is the nest attack.
You shouldn't have too much trouble, putting in the poly bushes. If I remember correctly, they went in quite easily, when I did mine 10 years ago. Not sure where you would get them in your area, but most 4WD spare parts places should have them.

Wolf

neophyteguy

19th January 2010, 03:55 AM

Muck, let us know where you find the poly bushes. I too am looking at replacing mine......Cheers!

Muckinhell

19th January 2010, 06:08 PM

I was told by richard at FWD motors in brissy that fulcrum make them for the landies, but i was a min or 2 to late this arvo to ring em after getting of phone with fwd motors con sarn it.

Timj

19th January 2010, 07:35 PM

Yes, Fulcrum sell them. I just recently bought a set for one of the the Games. I have got them installed on the one with standard springs and they seem good but have not had a chance to drive it further than round the block yet.

I also bought a set from Polybush in the UK for the other one just so I could compare the two. I believe they are the best in the UK with the warranty they give and such. I haven't fitted these yet because I have some issues with the parabolics I put on it recently. I also bought a full set of shockie bushes from them and got the lot freighted out here for only a little more than the Fulcrum ones.

Neither set were cheap, it is much cheaper to buy standard bushes or what I believe are inferior bushes from other suppliers either in the UK or here.

There is an interesting difference between the Fulcrum (SuperPro) and the Polybush. Fulcrum supply white grease and it gets put on every surface where the bush contacts the metal. This means basically that the bush itself does not contribute to the torsional control of the spring in the same way the standard bush does. The Polybush ones actually specify that you should not use any lubricant so I am assuming that when tightened up they will provide torsion resistance in the same way as standard. It will be interesting to see how each set lasts and how they work once I get the Polybush ones installed. I have to admit after taking many, many hours to get the old chassis bushes out I will be very happy not to have to do that again.

TimJ.

Wolfman_TWP

19th January 2010, 09:52 PM

There is an interesting difference between the Fulcrum (SuperPro) and the Polybush. Fulcrum supply white grease and it gets put on every surface where the bush contacts the metal. This means basically that the bush itself does not contribute to the torsional control of the spring in the same way the standard bush does. The Polybush ones actually specify that you should not use any lubricant so I am assuming that when tightened up they will provide torsion resistance in the same way as standard.
TimJ.
I was told that you only grease them if they squeak. (Apparently they can do that) Otherwise you just install them as is.. The ones I put onto my SWB 10 years ago didn't squeak, so they don't have the grease, and seemed ok from what I can tell..

Wolf

neophyteguy

20th January 2010, 01:05 PM

I just spoke with Fulcrum here in Melbourne and they have given me the part number SPF2154K (x3 required). They also said there is multiple listings for the "spring shackle upper" which comes in both a 30mm and a 38mm.

I can't purchase directly from Fulcrum and have been asked to contact the local Bursons who gave me a price of $42.90/kit.

Anyone know if I need the 30 or 38mm "spring shackle upper" for a series 2a (1971)? The vehicle is a couple of hours from here at the moment........

Cheers,
JRW

Muckinhell

20th January 2010, 05:46 PM

I just ordered from local fulcrum guys a 38mm kit that just has 2 bushes and 2 tubes for $60 so thats same as originall bushes basicaly. They even took the measuements of the other orginal new one i had left so id say if yours is a lwb 2a it prob is the 38mm bush neo. but time will tell, they get here fri.

Timj

20th January 2010, 06:53 PM

Long wheel base is 38mm, short wheel base is 30mm. They are only different at the front as far as I know. Rear should be the same 30mm.

TimJ.

Muckinhell

24th January 2010, 06:04 PM

ok finally all back together with the new single piece poly bush. i still had to cut it in half to fit it but its all done now...

Michael2

28th January 2010, 06:14 PM

I'm probably a bit late with this advice, but what I found good for removing the chassis bush was to drill the rubber and remove the centre, then score two lines on the outer steel shell with a hack-saw about 3mm apart. Then grind a centre punch into a mini-chisel and punch out the 3mm section between the two score marks. Given the small size of the chisel, there's quite a lot of force over a small area, so it doesn't require heavy belting. Once this strip has been removed, use the mini chisel to lift the edges a bit and fold the outer ring in on itself.

Muckinhell

28th January 2010, 06:24 PM

thanks Michael2, i did a similar thing but that was to cut a section out about 5ml wide then bent the sides in and it nearly fell out. was hard going though hacksawing with the saw upside down and only getting about 50ml in cut length.

Sideroad

28th January 2010, 08:25 PM

A cheap air chisel set comes with a cutter that would do an amazingly fast job.
Without any hard work :)

I'm probably a bit late with this advice, but what I found good for removing the chassis bush was to drill the rubber and remove the centre, then score two lines on the outer steel shell with a hack-saw about 3mm apart. Then grind a centre punch into a mini-chisel and punch out the 3mm section between the two score marks. Given the small size of the chisel, there's quite a lot of force over a small area, so it doesn't require heavy belting. Once this strip has been removed, use the mini chisel to lift the edges a bit and fold the outer ring in on itself.

groucho

30th January 2010, 07:44 AM

A cheap air chisel set comes with a cutter that would do an amazingly fast job.
Without any hard work :)

That's the go, air chisel with bush cutter.
Makes short work of them. Mark

Muckinhell

30th January 2010, 08:21 PM

what does a bush cutter look like?
Anyway i completed the other side today. 5 hours or so to do. made life bit easier having a rattle gun to undo everything and to get it mostly done up again ready to be torqued up right. but as usual what was a prob last time went easy on this side and vice versa. but at least its all back together and outa the shed. ill have to tackle the rears next, but i think they should be a tad easier i hope anyway.

groucho

30th January 2010, 09:06 PM

Bush splitter.
That one has done heaps of work. Realy needs a sharpen up on the grinder.
you wont push the complete bush out. I heat the rubber with the oxy till
the centre tube pops out. Then use the air chisel and usualy you only get a
short way through then it will push the remains of the bush out.
Beats the hell out of mucking around with the hacksaw...Mark

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/1479.jpg

banjo

6th February 2010, 05:01 PM