Dual Battery Disco 4

[Next_Door]

I am taking delivery of a new Disco 4 in a couple of months. 3.0L engine. From what I've seen so far there's not much room in the engine bay for a second battery. Anyone fitted a system as yet?
Many thanks

[weeds]

drivesafe on the forum will know, he is a vendor 'traxide', wouldn't surprise me if he hasn't started to develop something

relays (http://www.traxide.com.au/DBS.html)

[CaverD3]

Yes he has. :D

The battery gets too hot in the engine bay so he is looking at moving the modules so it will fit.

[drivesafe]

Thanks weeds and CaverD3.

Hi Next_Door and welcome to the AULRO forum.

I make a range of vehicle specific Dual Battery Systems for the D3 and was hoping that they would suit the D4.

Not so, while there is a space just in front of the cranking battery compartment, the feedback I’m getting is that the engine bay temperatures are way to high and as this was a problem with the D2, I think it poses an even bigger problem for the D4.

So, as CaverD3 pointed out, I am looking at other options.

I have already provided some dual battery kits to Bruce Lyntons for D4s but these are for power batteries in a camper trailer or caravan being towed behind the D4.

I am working on a battery box set up to fit in the rear cargo area of the d4 ( will fit a D3 as well ) and should have the first ready over the weekend.

All my D4 Dual Battery Kits will still be using the special controller developed with Land Rover Australia’s help so there will be no Problems with the new electronics.

[Next_Door]

Thanks. I am purchasing my D4 from Bruce Lynton. Not arriving until May sadly. I will keep my eye out for your solution. Cheers

[DISCO 4]

ARB in Perth will have a dual battery base ready in about a month. It sits along side the existing battery.

[Graeme]

The mounting plate for my 2nd battery is still in-situ in front of the main battery but the battery is now located in the centre of the 3rd row footwell, locked in place under the 2nd row centre seat. Its an 80ah AGM so the hot engine bay would destroy it and its OK to be on its side, albeit in a plastic tray.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Guys.
Watching this with interest. I have D4 ( 5 seater ) and have noted the large albeit flattish spaces under the rear seats ( ala Graeme ) As I don't have the 3 rd row seats to contend with, I also have large side pockets, normally used for the jack and tool kit in the 7 seater version. However, these side pockets would only suit a taller, and narrower AGM etc. I need to get out and check the availability of batteries in odd sizes, and then try for fit. There is also have a huge flat area under floor, currently the location for the tools and jack. I prefer not to touch that at this stage..........other plans in mind.
A shame the spot in the engine bay is too hot. It is still the most logical location.

Keep the ideas coming.

[drivesafe]

The more I research it, the more I talk to D4 owner and to some of the dealer service people, the more a rear cargo area mounted removable battery box is looking like the best way to go.

Not only is the place in front of the cranking battery suss because of the potential problem from heat, it’s also a size limiting location where only a small battery can be used.

There is another drawback to this location, to get any use from an auxiliary battery, you have to run cable into the rear cargo area, whether it’s to power some cigarette sockets, or run cable to the rear to supply power to charge batteries in a camper trailer or caravan ( or a combination of both set ups ), you need to run cable down the drivers side of the D4 ( and D3 ) to avoid having to remove the battery and fuse box on the passenger side to install the cable.

So if you mount the auxiliary battery in front of the cranking battery, you now have to run the cable forward to the isolator and then to the cranking battery and you also have to run the cable back passed the cranking battery, across the back of the engine bay and then down to the rear.

Thats a lot more cable and this both adds to the cost and to the amount of voltage drop because of the longer cable run.

By fitting the battery in the rear, first off you can fit any size battery you want, and the cabling run will be much shorter and much, MUCH quicker and easier to install.

[AndrewM]

I have a front mounted Drivesafe system in my D3 - great solution.
Only disadvantage I can see with a rear battery is you can't jump start a dead main battery easily. OK OK you should never have a dead main, but.....

[Dingmark Jim]

To jumpstart with a rear-mounted battery, solutions are:

1. Use a set of extra-long jumper cables (I have a set used for trucks in Alaska, where cables need to be long & flexible in the cold but able to carry high currents), or
2. Shorter jumper leads, but then you have to lug the battery to the front.

Even if it's pouring rain neither is a big problem for what is a pretty rare event in a D3/D4.

[ADMIRAL]

I normally carry a portable power pack for use with a flouro as a mobile light source. It has a set of leads build in for use as an emergency starter pack. Solves any problem if the main battery goes down.

[Disco4SE]

I live on the Mornington Peninsula and had a auto electrician in Rosebud by the name of BJP Auto Electrical fit a second battery in my Disco 4 just before Christmas. They put it in the plastic box in the back left hand corner. They had to remove a black box thingy and mount it on the outside to make room. I run a 25Lt fridge permanently as well as the kids DVD players. So far I havent had a problem.

[ADMIRAL]

I live on the Mornington Peninsula and had a auto electrician in Rosebud by the name of BJP Auto Electrical fit a second battery in my Disco 4 just before Christmas. They put it in the plastic box in the back left hand corner. They had to remove a black box thingy and mount it on the outside to make room. I run a 25Lt fridge permanently as well as the kids DVD players. So far I havent had a problem.

Can someone confirm ? Wasn't ' the black box thingy ' two of the sensors that were previously located under the guard, that caused shutdown issues when mixed with water ?

[Hooroo]

I live on the Mornington Peninsula and had a auto electrician in Rosebud by the name of BJP Auto Electrical fit a second battery in my Disco 4 just before Christmas. They put it in the plastic box in the back left hand corner. They had to remove a black box thingy and mount it on the outside to make room. I run a 25Lt fridge permanently as well as the kids DVD players. So far I havent had a problem.

Any chance of a few photos please?

[Graeme]

Can someone confirm ? Wasn't ' the black box thingy ' two of the sensors that were previously located under the guard, that caused shutdown issues when mixed with water ?
If you're referring to the air suspension rear valve block, then its still under the guard.

[drivesafe]

Hi Disco4SE, from the info I’ve been able to get, that “Black box” was originally located on the other side in a D3 behind the cranking battery and fuse box and was susceptible to water problems.

If this is the same device then moving it outside the auxiliary battery compartment may lead to the same problems and could cause some hassles with warranty.

I’m not meaning to sound like a bit of scare mongering being done and I’ll see if I can get some exact info on that “Black box” and I’ll post it up here if I get anything.

At present, with the auxiliary battery compartment and the only other place for a battery being mounted in the engine bay being just in front of the cranking battery but the auxiliary battery will not be projected from the heat, the only reliable auxiliary battery mounting location for the D4 at this time, is in the rear cargo area.

There is a major advantage to mounting a battery in the cargo area in that you can fit a much MUCH larger battery.

[gghaggis]

If by 'black box thingy' we're talking about the TCM, it would be less subjected to water (perhaps) in the aux compartment, but that particular compartment certainly isn't waterproof, so if the TCM water ingress has been 'addressed' by LR, one would imagine that it would imply that the module itself was better water-proofed. Therefore I don't see any huge reason for not moving it out of the aux compartment (and it could be easily made water-resistant if required).

If I want a 'large' battery, I'll carry a jump pack. I'm going to try fitting the second battery in the aux compartment too, and rewire the Traxide to provide the rear power points as I currently have in the D3, as I want to run my front winch. I think it'll work :)

If not, I still think you could mount one in front of the existing one, and heat shield it if necessary. I didn't notice it being any hotter than the primary battery compartment when I had the loan RRS, and it was 37C that day (and being driven hard!!).

Cheers,

Gordon

[drivesafe]

Hi Gordon, the standard D3 kits work if the battery is installed in the auxiliary box of a D4 as the battery bracket bolt fittings are still in the box.

As far as mounting the battery at the front cranking battery goes, it may work but we won’t know for about 12 to 18 months when if they don’t work, the first of the failures start to appear.

The heat in the engine bay is much higher than the temps in either of the battery compartments but if down the road, someone is contemplating mounting a which and wants two batteries to operate it, then the front mount will be idea.

[Disco4SE]

Here is a photo of my second battery. The plastic cover still fits over the top. The battery isnt big, but runs my fridge 24/72285222852

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Disco4SE, from the info I’ve been able to get, that “Black box” was originally located on the other side in a D3 behind the cranking battery and fuse box and was susceptible to water problems.

If this is the same device then moving it outside the auxiliary battery compartment may lead to the same problems and could cause some hassles with warranty.

I’m not meaning to sound like a bit of scare mongering being done and I’ll see if I can get some exact info on that “Black box” and I’ll post it up here if I get anything.

At present, with the auxiliary battery compartment and the only other place for a battery being mounted in the engine bay being just in front of the cranking battery but the auxiliary battery will not be projected from the heat, the only reliable auxiliary battery mounting location for the D4 at this time, is in the rear cargo area.

There is a major advantage to mounting a battery in the cargo area in that you can fit a much MUCH larger battery.

Had a look at the 'footwell' area in the cargo bay. There is room for 2 x 230high x 300 long x 200 wide battery boxes. Have to confirm the usable size with an actual box, and whether the size available is compatible to any decent batteries

[drivesafe]

Hi Admiral, my intention is to cater for removable battery boxes for the rear cargo area.

The likelihood that there would be many people using all 7 seats while on a trip is fairly remote so with the rear seats ( actually just one seat ) folded down, a battery box can be secured in the rear cargo area utilising the D4’s tie down anchor points.

This simplifies the requirements of having an auxiliary battery when needed and the cabling installation in the D4 is a snack.

[Hooroo]

Thanks Disco4SE. Nice, simple solution that I'll copy.
I did the same with my D3's. Never had an issue with heat - even on a hot Nth Simpson trip.
(I wonder if you fellas considering a in-cabin solution will incl an airtight box with external vent for battery fumes? I don't know if this is necessary but that's how it's done in light aircraft)

Disco4SE, have you had any feedback from your dealer about whether the mod will affect your warranty? I'd be interested to hear whether they likely to be fair in this instance?

[drivesafe]

Hi Hooroo, there is no reason or legal requirement to externally vert the battery box, even when using a non sealed standard flooded wet cell battery.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Admiral, my intention is to cater for removable battery boxes for the rear cargo area.

The likelihood that there would be many people using all 7 seats while on a trip is fairly remote so with the rear seats ( actually just one seat ) folded down, a battery box can be secured in the rear cargo area utilising the D4’s tie down anchor points.

This simplifies the requirements of having an auxiliary battery when needed and the cabling installation in the D4 is a snack.

Thanks. I saw the detail on your box on another thread. All we need now is a few pics to see how it all comes together.

[drivesafe]

Here are some pics of the finished install.

This is the kit. NOTE, the second 120 amp Anderson plug will be pre-assembled on the end of a 1m cable for connecting to a battery box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/339.jpg


This is the pre-assembled main cable.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/340.jpg


This is the location of the control module in the Auxiliary Battery Box, on the driver’s side of the engine bay.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/341.jpg


This is the 120 amp Anderson plug laying in the cargo area.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/342.jpg


This is the 120 amp Anderson plug stowed away in the Jack Compartment
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/343.jpg


This is the finished and stowed 50 amp Anderson plug at the rear of the D4.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/344.jpg

[ADMIRAL]

What type of circuit breaker has been used ? It is affected by heat ? ( I guess that is qualified by it's location ) It does not seem to be manually resettable ?

[drivesafe]

Hi ADMIRAL, I use 50 amp auto resetting type circuit breakers ( CB ).

The CB is mounted in a box to make for an easier installation, no holes to drill, plus being in a box means, like all the rest of the installed kit, there are no exposed positive connections.

The system is capable of handling 90+ amps continuously and by using a 50 amp CB, the CB not only protects the system form short circuits but it also acts as an overload protection device.

When the new battery box is finished, this too will have a CB in the battery supply cable so the whole system is fail safe.

[Disco4SE]

Thanks Disco4SE. Nice, simple solution that I'll copy.
I did the same with my D3's. Never had an issue with heat - even on a hot Nth Simpson trip.
(I wonder if you fellas considering a in-cabin solution will incl an airtight box with external vent for battery fumes? I don't know if this is necessary but that's how it's done in light aircraft)

Disco4SE, have you had any feedback from your dealer about whether the mod will affect your warranty? I'd be interested to hear whether they likely to be fair in this instance?

Hi Hooroo,
My Landrover dealer doesn't yet know about the second battery. I am still 4,000Klm's away from my first service.
Disco4SE

[Graeme]

Now being aware that the D3 aux battery nuts are in the D4, I'm going to move my in-cabin battery to that spot which will allow battery cable connection to the cranking battery via a switch. My 80ah AGM will fit when I shuffle the control units out of the way.

[drivesafe]

Now being aware that the D3 aux battery nuts are in the D4, I'm going to move my in-cabin battery to that spot which will allow battery cable connection to the cranking battery via a switch. My 80ah AGM will fit when I shuffle the control units out of the way.

Hi Graeme and before you move anything, do some measuring.

To my knowledge, the only way you will fit that size of battery, is the modify the battery compartment wall.

[Graeme]

By my measurements only the ribs along the front bottom edge will have to be attacked. Its a Remco RM 12-80 L=259 W=165 H=208 with bolt holes and no posts for the connections.

[gghaggis]

With those measurements, you should be fine with a little massaging of the fins!

Cheers,

Gordon (enjoying a red or three in McLaren Vale!)