"Tigerz11",, thoughts please?

[B92 8NW]

I've bought myself a Superwinch X9.

The braking is "in-the-drum" which I assume precludes using Dyneema rope, though I've seen at least one like this. It's loaded with steel cable as it is, which I'm happy with anyway.

Did stumble across Tigerz11.com.au (http://www.tigerz11.com.au) - maybe a little buyer's remorse:D - I notice that their selling winches from $600, and have a 12,000LB loaded with synthetic, with wired and wireless controllers for almost half the price of the Superwinch. It also has faster line speeds albeit at disproportionately worse current draw.

I prefer to have a reputable brand for practical reasons and I'm wary of the "might as well give it a go for the price" line. Can anyone vouch for the Tigerz11 range? Comments/feedback?

I think I've made the right choice going for a well built, American unit, even if it was [several] times the price.

[dullbird]

dont know about the winches but we have a couple of his solid state solenoids and they work a treat.....

I have also noticed that they are sponsoring more and more stuff including cars at tuff trucks

[Slunnie]

The importer is quite an enthusiast.

There is also a new range which have just been released which have 2 speed settings.

Check the fit of the winch in you winchbar!!! The newer ones are getting pretty powerful, the current with 6.6hp and the are long in the motor. If you have a cutout in the winch bar mounts, then the Tigerz11 winches can be flipped and run upside down.

So far they have a good reputation.

[isuzurover]

I have ordered one - will let you know when it gets here, but all reports are good.

[Cosmic Tourist]

I've seen these available with a tow bar mount. A frame for the winch that slots into the tow bar receptacle. Seems a good idea, as then you can have the winch in car and out of the mud/rain etc for most of the trip (taking up space). I wonder how hard it would be to modify a non winch bullbar to take a tow bar, which would allow for pulling from the front. Need to be quite strong so you dont tear it off. With this, you'd have a winch kept clean (inside the car, taking up space) but able to pull out either front or back if you nose in hard.
Heck, maybe modified sliders to use it to pull sideways? Just a thought

[up2nogood]

The Superwinch is made in Slovenia (it's got a dirty great sticker on the motor that announces such) and uses self tapping bolts to hold on the motor and gear casing. It also has a 'fusible' (?) drive link between the motor drive shaft and the main drive shaft that extends through to the gears that is made of hardened plastic. It is a bit of a sloppy fit, but seems to work OK. But if you have a heavy pull I would use a pully block. Don't think I'd like to overload it or it will strip out.
The gears are well made, but the grease from the factory is crap and needs to be replaced. To not do so will see some of the hard facing in the planetary gear set wear off prematurely.
Also the motor bearings are 'OK' (reads: not that good) and are Chinese in origin. The winch I've just pulled down has been used maybe a dozen times in 5 years and the planetary gears slightly worn due to poor lube.

Overall the Superwinch is an OK winch, and I don't think it's that far in front (if it is at all) of the current good Chinese winches. Most Chinese winches are a copy of the Warn, although they are starting to get their own ideas in.

Now, can you do me a favour and look at your motor as I forgot which terminal is A and which is F2........
Look at the motor from above and look on the plastic tab where the wires bolt to it. It will have terminals arranged like this:
End of motor side: .Cable drum side.
Can you ID them for me please? Should be F1 close to the winch on its own, and A and F2 on the end cap. Which one's which on the end of motor side?

[Psimpson7]

'A' should be on its own and 'F1' and 'F2' are the two together. They are the directional ones

[Vern]

I've bought myself a Superwinch X9.

The braking is "in-the-drum" which I assume precludes using Dyneema rope, though I've seen at least one like this. It's loaded with steel cable as it is, which I'm happy with anyway.

Did stumble across Tigerz11.com.au (http://www.tigerz11.com.au) - maybe a little buyer's remorse:D - I notice that their selling winches from $600, and have a 12,000LB loaded with synthetic, with wired and wireless controllers for almost half the price of the Superwinch. It also has faster line speeds albeit at disproportionately worse current draw.

I prefer to have a reputable brand for practical reasons and I'm wary of the "might as well give it a go for the price" line. Can anyone vouch for the Tigerz11 range? Comments/feedback?

I think I've made the right choice going for a well built, American unit, even if it was [several] times the price.
You mean you've just discovered tigerz11, you need to get on the net more:angel::D.
Been a hell of a lot of talk on these over the last 6 months, heaps on outerlimits, for a cheapy they look pretty good value. I'd get one if i was after anojther but i've got a highmount already.

[MinniTheMoocha]

I went the Tigerz11. 12000lbs version with rope.

So far so good. The winching has been recovering myself from bog holes, pulling out other cars etc. Not really torture tested yet.

I have been much happier travelling unknown tracks knowing it is there to help out especially when on my own.

[up2nogood]

'A' should be on its own and 'F1' and 'F2' are the two together. They are the directional ones

Not on these beasties!

From memory, if you're looking side on with the motor end cap on your left and the cable drum on your right and the earth bolt on the bottom.....
A
.............F1
F2


I think they just wanted to be different. The later ones have both F's near the drum, like the Warn. I can always pull the cap back off as the A will be the brushes/armatures...... But I siliconed it on.....:eek:

[B92 8NW]

You're joking about the X9 surely? Being marginally cheaper than a Warn but only marginally better than a chinese one is disappointing. Especially considering its an OEM Toyota accessory.

Anyway thanks for all the ideas. Better go for a drive and check one out!

[roverrescue]

Its not comprehensive but this from when I serviced my tigerzII.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/74789-tigerz-ii-winch-stripdown.html

just last weekend had a look at the guts of a superwinchX9 for a mate...

Compared to say a WARN10000 or WARN9000 slow mount they have slightly better motor sealing but slightly worse GBox sealing. The TigerzII IMHO has better sealing at both ends than any of above. This winch was unused but had sat on the front of a company ute for the length of the lease. Surface corrosion but not bad, grease in gearbox had gone to glue (change it me thinks) and there was a wee shade of rust within the motor assembly. Interestingly it appeared to have solid state relays...

I still like my Tigerz!!!

S

[Michael2]

dont know about the winches but we have a couple of his solid state solenoids and they work a treat.....

I only heard about using their solenoids a couple of days ago from a neighbour with a Patrol. He used it to replace the 4 Pack of Solenoids on his WARN winch. He mounted it remotely from the winch (engine bay) to keep it clear of dirt.

[roverrescue]

Being "solid state" and sealed its not such an issue keeping them away from the muck... I guess terminals can corrode though. Keeping them close to the winch motor reduces wiring runs and potential voltage drop.

S

[up2nogood]

You're joking about the X9 surely?

But my name isn't Shirley!

I've been waiting years to use that.....


The planetary gear housing is superior in the Superwinch, as are the armatures that hold the brushes. But will that matter greatly? Prob not.
Don't be disappointed, the Superwench is a good unit. If you bought it from a dealer then there's half your problem in terms of its cost. Other than that, it will do what it's advertised to do. Pull a maximum load of four tonnes. Keep that in mind and double it up if you need to and will work fine, albeit slowly.

[Bush65]

I'm not knocking their relays. They look similar to those manufactured by Albright, and I know the Albright units give good service.

But the site (link in post above), and several people in this thread and another on winch problems have claimed that the relays are solid state.

To call these solenoids solid state is completely false and misleading - but then a lot of people (without knowing better) also use electronic instead of electric.

Solid state circuits or devices are built entirely from solid materials (usually crystalline silicon) and in which the electrons, or other charge carriers, are confined entirely within the solid material.

The Tigerz and Albright units use conventional electromagnetic solenoids with several moving parts and contactors for switching. They package these in a compact box to do the same as the 4 large solenoids in the normal winch controller.

Solid state relays use Thyristor, SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier), or MOSFET (Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor) devices.

Warn make the only solid state (MOSFET) controller (http://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/mosfet_control.shtml) for 4x4 winches that I know of.

http://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/images/149/MOSFET_Control.jpg

True solid state e.g. Mosfet is superior technology, but I'm not recommending anyone spend their $$$ on Warn's mosfet unit - I would think the Tigerz or Albright relays will be more economical and be reliable/suitable enough.

[B92 8NW]

Interesting morning. Now have a 12000 lb tiger in my driveway from Patrolparts Lilydale and lots of beer money from the difference. Looks pretty good, although my ARB bar will need drilling to fit the hawse fairlead.

[roverrescue]

well there you go - once again assumption is the source of all error.
thanks John... solid state they are not!

Steve

[B92 8NW]

The motor and gearbox don't seem to be able to be rotated 90 deg so that the controls are facing upwards when mounted feet forward. As such the earth terminal fouls the bar. I had an engineering shop make up proper spacing plates *cough bs* to clear the terminal and fairlead mounting nuts. They're well greased inside too, though I did grease mine before putting it in.

[langy]

For Up2nogood...
A
.............F1
F2


is correct - I just spent the day cleaning and greasing my x9. Also, I noticed that the earth for the brush holder in the end cap (That other nut you see next to the motor bolts) wasn't conducting properly and eating the metal away like a short, probably due to the silicone used. I added a thick wire from that bolt to the earth on the motor to try and remedy it.

and, for B92 - for whatever reason, the x9 really really does what it advertises, and keeps on ticking. That slovenia motor odds on originally was russian in design, and they used to know how to make electric motors bulletproof.

[up2nogood]

Thankyou sir! When you pulled yours to bits, did you see any wear in that plastic connecting gear? Mine's fine, just wanted to see if yours (given it's probably been used more than mine) had any.

[langy]

Nothing to speak of.... Touch wood!!!
( If I get motivated, I'm going to visit a Toymotor dealer ( X9 are standard equip on Toyota's in Aust) in an effort to obtain a freespool lever for a reasonable price. I'm also going to see if they carry spare driveshaft couplings. I'll let everyone know what I find out.)