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conjames
24th January 2010, 10:41 AM
Hi Guys,
I bought this '66 series2a a couple of months back which was rebuilt a few years back , but has been sitting around and the guy who had it just used to tinker and screw around with it.
I managed to get it started a few days ago and sounded good but after I stopped it...then tried to restart it..it was all over and have not been able to start it up since...
What I have discovered -
1. The spark I am getting from the coil looks weak and very yellowish...doesn't look right to me and all the ingnition system has been changed..new Dizzy, coil, lead, plugs...you name it. Have double checked the timing and all good.
2. I checked the plugs and only found No.2 wet with fuel.. all others dry.
I pulled all the plugs out and cranked her over and I could see Fuel mist coming out of No.2 but none of the rest...I don't think this is good...
I think something has gone...maybe valves??..I noticed i can actually open the valves by pushing on the springs...seem very weak..
Help!..Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.

Con

JDNSW
24th January 2010, 12:20 PM
Sounds as if a compression check would be the next thing to look at. Also, the mixture could be out - due to the carburetter flooding (what type?) or if a Zenith warped top plate, or weak mixture due to air leak in the inlet manifold gasket (loose manifold?) or vacuum line (PCV valve?). Weak mixture is more likely, as unless really bad it will start from cold if it is rich.

Check what voltage you are actually getting at the coil with the points closed (check chassis/engine earth and could be bad connection on the ignition switch). Check it is the correct coil (not intended for use with a ballast resistor).

Weak valve springs should not stop the engine starting, but may have resulted in burning of the valve seats and consequent low compression, which will stop it starting.

John

chazza
24th January 2010, 12:24 PM
The spark at the plug when earthed onto the engine should be strong and electric-blue; you are on the right track here so check:
1. Low-tension circuit for: loose or poor connections; faulty earth in the distributor base plate, etc.
2. Is the coil the proper type? It needs the type with no ballast resistor I think.
3. If everything in the high-tension circuit is new, check that it does actually work or has not been damaged.
4. If you suspect poor compression do a compression test; dry followed by a wet test and record the results.
5. if you suspect a burnt or sticking valve you can prove it by forcing compressed air into the cylinder when the piston is on T.D.C. on the compression stroke and feeling for air at the exhaust pipe or carburettor. (from what you describe I doubt it is this because it would probably fire on the other cylinders).
6. Check the valve clearances - sometimes previous owners do funny things to them and set the clearances all over the place - do this before the compression test.
7. If No.2 is getting fuel then others will be, so don't be alarmed by lack of wetness. If you look down the carburettor throat and turn the throttle linkage by hand you should see fuel squirt out, depending on what carburettor is fitted - use a torch.

Cheers Charlie

conjames
24th January 2010, 02:07 PM
Thanks guys for the comments...In the ignition, I do suspect the low tension circuit is a bit dodgy...connections etc. When I check the points with the ignition on...there is a tiny sparc but looks very weak..

I'll do a compression check to see what is going on here....I'm thinking of taking the head off and doing the valves....but I think I should make sure my ignition is producing a good strong blue spark before I do this...agree?

chazza
24th January 2010, 02:12 PM
Yes, I would start with the ignition first seeing that you have had it running recently and given your description of the spark.

I forgot to mention checking the static ignition timing with a test light and check that the points haven't grown a whisker on them,

Cheers Charlie

Blknight.aus
24th January 2010, 02:59 PM
if you have a tiny spark on the points then your condenser is shot.

That can cause a weak and occasionally no spark.

drifter
24th January 2010, 07:04 PM
if you have a tiny spark on the points then your condenser is shot.

That can cause a weak and occasionally no spark.agree

Mine hadn't been started for 10 years and there was no spark. New coil, points, plugs, leads, dizzy cap (long story) and I had a weak spark. Tossed in a new condenser and it started right up!

I have had an engine fail with a faulty condenser before (old 1950's Vauxhall Velox) so it is one of the things I usually have a couple of in the toolbox.

Edit: and be careful to fully isolate the coil and condenser connection when you connect them to the points. If it isn't on properly it just won't work. As you had it running before and then it died, I would still suspect the condenser.

conjames
25th January 2010, 11:40 AM
Thanks again folks for the feedback. Will be fitting a new condensor and see how it all goes. I did a compression check and only getting around 50lbs on that...I suspect I'm going to have to do the Head as well soon.

rgds

Con :beer:

conjames
28th January 2010, 09:14 PM
Just to go on about my woes and how I am having issues starting my Series2...I have changed, as per peoples suggestions, the Condensor and yes, I am getting a much stronger spark now from the coil....jumps nearly a centimeter , but it's still a yellow colour and still no go.I checked the spark at the plugs and ...no sparc...what the?.....and there is a spark at the end of the spark plug leads....but again, not a strong blue colour.I can't believe all plugs have failed?....Any suggestions here?....
Thnks

pop058
28th January 2010, 09:28 PM
Any spark at the coil lead going IN to the dizzy cap ??

Paul

alien
28th January 2010, 09:36 PM
Just to go on about my woes and how I am having issues starting my Series2...I have changed, as per peoples suggestions, the Condensor and yes, I am getting a much stronger spark now from the coil....jumps nearly a centimeter , but it's still a yellow colour and still no go.I checked the spark at the plugs and ...no sparc...what the?.....and there is a spark at the end of the spark plug leads....but again, not a strong blue colour.I can't believe all plugs have failed?....Any suggestions here?....
Thnks

Some simple questions..some obvious,some not.
Is the distributer earthed properly?
And the coil? (seen them monted to rubber to stop rubbing:eek:)
What is the roter button like?
Are the contacts in the dizzy cap clean?
And is the pin contacting the button when fitted?

Compresion test can be done any time but as you hinted I wouldn't pull the head of till it's running.

Startya bastard should eliminate fuel from the picture when your sparks right.

Blknight.aus
28th January 2010, 09:53 PM
Thanks again folks for the feedback. Will be fitting a new condensor and see how it all goes. I did a compression check and only getting around 50lbs on that...I suspect I'm going to have to do the Head as well soon.

rgds

Con :beer:



nahh for a 7:1 engine thats been sitting around for a while that might have stiff rings thats plenty...

get it running, give it an oil change and drive it around for a week or 2 and see what it does then.

matpoli
28th January 2010, 10:35 PM
OK just a thought, forgive me if I offend. You said you aren't getting any spark at the plug....... Do you have the plug earthed when you are doing this test, if you just hold the plug and turn it over and it isn't earthed then you won't get a spark.

If the spark is getting as far as the lead then check the gaps on the plugs as sometimes they don't come ready gapped.

I honestly think it may be a fuel issue, maybe pour a little petrol in the carby and crank it over to see if that starts it or even a little down each cylinder just to be sure.

Good luck mate I am addicted to these cars now and once you get it running you'll get years of enjoyment.

Stormy
28th January 2010, 10:47 PM
A frustrating one, if you haven't tried another coil do it, because if it has a fault in the secondary it will spark in the open air, but when under compression can't develop the extra voltage to fire the plugs under load. Occasionally a coil will give a nice blue spark out in the open but refuse to fire a plug under compression. If the coil checks out OK then measure the voltage at the coil with the points open and then closed. There shouldn't be more than a volt or two difference if the primary circuit is OK. If a ballast coil is fitted it should give a better spark than a straight 12 volt one, but it will burn the points out quickly and will stuff the dielectric in the condenser very quickly. That's because a ballast coil is really rated at about 7 volts, and the voltages will exceed the rating of the condenser. Also don't assume that new means good with some of the rubbish that's around now. Check every component by substituting with one that works on something else.Good luck

matpoli
28th January 2010, 10:51 PM
If a ballast coil is fitted it should give a better spark than a straight 12 volt one, but it will burn the points out quickly and will stuff the dielectric in the condenser very quickly. That's because a ballast coil is really rated at about 7 volts, and the voltages will exceed the rating of the condenser. Also don't assume that new means good with some of the rubbish that's around now. Check every component by substituting with one that works on something else.Good luck

Yes be very careful with a new coil, I thought I'd fit my old HZ coil to give a better spark on my series and like stormy said I blew the new condenser that I had just fitted. Sometimes I wish I didn't feel the need to fiddle just for the sake of working on her.

Blknight.aus
29th January 2010, 05:32 AM
To make a suitable test plug that simulates the conditions in the combusion chamber grab a spare plugh cut the leg off of it and hose clamp it to a large clip.

on a series the rocker cover bolts are perfect to connect this to.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/555722-post7.html

conjames
29th January 2010, 11:36 AM
Thnks for the help so far people...To answer a couple...yes, There is a reasonable spark from the Coil lead to the Dizzy...but still a yellowy colour. I will have to check these earth connections...but just strange this is the problem as it was running...then just wouldn't go again....I will investigate some more and see what I can find. I can't believe the plugs are all stuffed, probably just my earth connection when i was testing them....Although stranger things have happened....