Service time!

[PeterH]

I have not had my P38 all that long, about to change all the fluids and filters, plugs/leads for the first time for good measure.
So firstly what engine oil would you guys suggest for a 2001 RR 4.6 HSE?
There is a sticker recommending Mobil 1 on the fan shroud, I'd be interested to know which oil you guys use.
Also replacing auto trans fluid/filter, diff oil, transfer case oil, any suggestions as to good quality appropriate oils will be appreciated.
Also which spark plugs would you suggest?
I don't mind spending a few extra bucks for things that go the distance, will be interested to hear your thoughts.
Cheers, Pete.

[adm333]

Well, like the beer thread, I'm guessing everyone will have their own opinion.

For mine, I use Penrite oils.

Mine's on gas so I use HPR GAS. For yours, probaby the HPR 15 would be the one.

I use Penrite ATF-BMV in the auto. Its a semi synthetic, especially formulated for ZF transmissions. Quite expensive though, but as you say ....

Can't help with spark plugs as the Bosch motor uses different ones to the GEMS.

Cheers
Dave

[Razza's Rangie]

Hey there PeterH,

I currently use penrite oil aswell although i have found that I use HPR 10 (the one that is light blue on the label) on my 98 4.6HSE, Its a little bit more fluid on start up, but not as much as Mobil 1.It says to use mobil1 as your motor requires more oil splashed around at startup (mobile one should be about 5w-50 last time i looked) I think that every one gets different advice from different mechanics who heard things from their neighbours cat .....etc. From working with a dealer in Sydney and see alot of RR come in ( we had about 40 cars a day of which about10-15 were RR HSE), i can say steer clear of castrol (should be called castrate oil).
Go with the Penrite ATFBMV for the Auto, and I would stick with the same brand(penrite) for Diff fluid aswell.

Sparkplugs'same as i have the earlier motor and they are different Oh and dont trust that the plug gap is correct out of the factory, buy a reputatble feeler gauge and check them yourself!.

Airfilter - Have to buy genuine (welcome to the foibles of RR)
Fuel Filter - You can get aftermarket fuel filters, just get a reputable brand I tend to fit genuine when the price isnt massively high.

Hope this helps!

Also a copy of the RAVE disc is always handy if you dont have one

Cheers
Razza

[p38arover]

Engine Oil: I use Penrite HPR Gas.

Plug leads: Magnecor. Have fun changing them on a Thor engine.

[spitfire]

I have just changed plugs in my 2001 HSE,i was told by a long standing RR garage to use NGK PFR 5G11 platinums $22 ea from Autobarn not Champions which were in my vehicle ,a long time i think as there was no center electrode left and the gap was 2.5mm,still ran OK though...cheers

[PaulP38a]

Plug leads: Magnecor. Have fun changing them on a Thor engine.
Second that... is not so difficult if you have the coil packs removed when you change the leads over, but you probably don't want to go down that path at the moment :o



I have just changed plugs in my 2001 HSE,i was told by a long standing RR garage to use NGK PFR 5G11 platinums $22 ea from Autobarn not Champions which were in my vehicle ,a long time i think as there was no center electrode left and the gap was 2.5mm,still ran OK though
Yep, a few of us have the NGK PFR5G-11's. I replaced mine a few months ago and found that the PO had also used the same plugs... see here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/87376-ngk-spark-plugs.html)for a recent-ish discussion on plugs.

For engine oil, I use Valvoline Durablend 10W-40.

Cheers, Paul.

[PeterH]

OK, new plugs in, I got the NGK PFR 5G11 platinums as suggested, I can notice a difference over the old plugs.
They were actually pretty easy to change without taking anything off the motor as suggested on the rangerovers.net site.
A couple of questions, on my classic, the oil drain bolt had a crush washer you change every time, does the P38 have anything like that for the oil drain bolt?
Also I'm going to put a new filter in the auto transmission, do the gaskets for the pan require any special type of gasket cement? I would normally just use the good old non hardening type.
Thanks, Pete.

[adm333]

The AT filter kit you bought should come with a new rubber gasket for the sump pan and a rubber o ring for inside where the filter connects to the uptake pipe.

I am not aware of any further need for goo type gasket sealer.

[PeterH]

Thanks Adm333, yes the filter kit has a rubber seal and o rings, just checking about any further need for sealant before I pull it apart.
There is a great guide on rangerovers.net which I'll be following for that job.
I fitted new leads today, has made a dramatic difference with the new plugs as well, it feels much more responsive and solid to drive.
I went to a place in Nunawading (Victoria) that custom make ignition leads including Maganacore, after a very informative chat about ignition leads, he made up some high quality low suppression leads using Belden cable, similar construction to magnacore, vastly better than the crappy leads that were on the car when I got it.
They were not all that hard to change over, I got a bit worried there reading some of the comments here!
I made myself up a wiring diagram for the coil packs before I started, made life much easier.
Anyway with the good quality leads I should not have to touch them for a while now :)
Cheers, Pete.

[poleonpom]

Pete,

Were those leads expensive?
Where did you go to get them?
I'm thinking I'd like to do the same for mine.

Regards,

Jonathan

[PeterH]

It was $130 for a set of 8 custom made leads, which works out to about $16 a lead.
We ended up using Belden ultra low suppression cable for the leads.
He made them up on the spot for me, I took the old leads off and he copied the lengths, he even numbered them so no guessing where they went.
The place I went to is Performance Ignition Services, see web site link:
Performance Ignition Services: citysearch (http://melbourne.citysearch.com.au/E/V/MELBO/0051/10/03/1.html)

It's a bit of a drive down the Eastern freeway from our side of town, I found out about them when I replaced the leads on my classic, it made such a difference to that vehicle it felt like the right thing to do for the P38 as well.
They are agents for Magnacore as well, but they are happy to talk to you about your requirements, so you really get a custom made set.
I'm probably noticing the difference even more due to the new spark plugs as well.

If you do the job I'll email you my diagram for the coil pack wiring, that made life much easier when fishing around the back of the motor.
It only took me 30 mins max to do the job, once I worked out the best way to do it.
The trick is to check which side the lead goes to on the coil pack and plug it in from that side of the vehicle, rather than try to do them all from one side, which makes it almost impossible, unless you are double jointed!
Cheers, Pete.

[Kalincho]

No wanting to hijack the thread, though I do have a spark plug related question?

If I am running Venturi LPG which plugs should I use? Will it make a difference? I was going to buy the NGK Iridium BPR5ES ? (P38 95 4.0L)

Cheers

Kalincho

[adm333]

I also have Venturi LPG on my 1997.

The NGK Iridiums are fine, I think they are BPR5-EIX or something simliar.

The BPR5-ES is the standard plugs.

Last change over I put in Bosch Platinums and cannot tell the difference over the NGK Iridiums, except that they (the Bosch) were cheaper. Not sure if they will last as long, but I change them more regularly anyway.

I shall dig out the exact spec number tonight.

Dave