Improvements

[Aussie]

I've just completed the following work on my buggy.

All new EAS bags
replaced shockers
replaced Sterring dampner
replaced front discs and pads (bought drilled and slotted rotars)

Minor jobs also done
new cable release on passenger side door
new shocker for cubby hole lid


The difference to road handling and ride is brilliant!! took me about half a day too do (on my own) and was a piece of cake.

Things too do.

New Kenwood headunit too be slotted in
cat back exhaust from Ebay

[PeterH]

Nice work Aussie, that is fast going, 1/2 a day for all that, you must have a well set up workshop.
One of the things I like most about Rangies is you can (most of the time) get in there and work on it.
I have been doing some maintenance on a Nissan Serena,you need to be really small and double jointed just getting to the oil filter, I'll have my Rangie any day over that!
Did you find the air bags very hard to do?
What type of bags did you put in?
Cheers, Pete.

[Aussie]

Gday Pete

I decided to go with all standard spec gear. I've heard mixed stories regarding fitting the Bilstein shocks, some swear by them and others werent happy. As for Airbags I purchased the Dunlop type, would have loved Gen3 bags. Price was another factor, aftermarket stuff is quite expensive, although it is longer lasting. I have some coin now too put 2nd battery in :) and new headunit.

As for nice workshop no, the hardest part is getting the bloody plastic panel off underneath the wheel arch without buggering the little push in clips. I had to replace 5 after I got the 5hits with em..lol

[Junosi]

Nice work. Where did you get the shocker for the cubby lid from ? I've been hunting around for one myself. Still debating with myself whether to go Gen 3 or stock airbags when I replace them - put new bilsteins in and bilstein steering dampner a couple of months back myself :)

[Aussie]

Yes I looked at the Bilstein steering dampner, Granted it is supposed to last 3 times aslong as a standard dampner, But at $250 I whimped out..lol as for little cubby hole shock, I ordered it from Graeme at Britcar in North Melbourne. Price was $28 approx.

Next Job 2nd Battery in the rear wheel well. Just in the middle now of making up a Battery holder. I've measured the size and width seems a concern. 145mm is max size so I've found a deep cycle battery that comes in at 138mm.

[PaulP38a]

Who'd have thought replacing the shock on the cubby box would improve handling? :p (sorry, had to be said).

Nice work mate with all the other bits... you must be a speed demon to get all that done in a few hours.

Which Kenwood head unit did you go for? I think the BT-200 bluetooth add-on for my Kenwood may have bit the dust already :mad:

Cheers, Paul.

[Aussie]

Who'd have thought replacing the shock on the cubby box would improve handling?

Oh yes its improved the handling qualities of my 4 drink holders by 200% :)

[51jay]

????? Buggy !!!!

[51jay]

????? Buggy !!!! It's a RangeRover P38A, your moniker is Aussie?? :o

[DT-P38]

Hey Aussie,

Just curious as to what shocks and steering dampener you bought, where from and how much?

I am planning on doing mine soon (have been procrastinating for about 6mths!) and am in Melbourne too, so any other guidance you can provide would be great. Have put a 2" lift kit under my Mrs 100 series cruiser so am game to have a go... are there instructions in Rave or you reckon just fill the beer fridge and jump into it?

Let me know your thoughts... Thanks, Dave.

[Aussie]

Hi Dave

I bought all my gear from Graeme at Britcars in North Melbourne. All standard stuff, Dunlop Airbags, Shockers were Standard (Cant remember the Brand) the only thing which you could call aftermarket was the Front rotors.

Airbags were approx $140 each
Shockers $80 each
Dampner was $55
Rotors $110 Each

Give or take a few dollars have the receipt somewhere

Its a piece of pi55 too do. Grab the RAVE manual and go for it. Make sure you have 2 good jacks, 1 too support the Chassis :)

Where in Melbourne are you? If your close too me I might pop over when you do it :) Aspendale Gardens here.

[Junosi]

Where in Melbourne are you? If your close too me I might pop over when you do it :) Aspendale Gardens here.

I'd pull up a deck chair too - I love watching hard work :D (Melton here)

[PaulP38a]

Airbags were approx $140 each
Shockers $80 each
Dampner was $55
Rotors $110 Each


At those prices, you've really got to think long and hard if it is worth forking out double to get Bilstein shocks and Arnot Gen III bags :o... some of us still do though.

Are you able to check if those shocks and damper are the orignal Boge units? Prices seems about right from recent experiences.

First time I had an air bag replaced on my previous P38A, and before I figured it wasn't too hard to do myself, the stealer/dealer charged me over $400 for one bag :o:o

cheers
Paul.

[Aussie]

Are you able to check if those shocks and damper are the orignal Boge units?

Yep thats the ones, Boge

[DT-P38]

Thanks for that Aussie. They sound like extremely affordable prices to me.:D

Fellow Melbournites, I be located in Balwyn North, or as we used to call it in the olden days... North Balwyn!

Am thinking I will go see that dude in North Melb over the next couple of days and invest in the shocks and dampner. I will then provide plenty of notice for participants & millicent vicelanders as to when the job is going to be done! Maybe say, on a Saturday morning in March... :cool:

Actually, thinking about it, it would be great to do some benchmarking of the "pretty pig" against other P38's. I have had suspiscions for some time that she is way off the "normal" mark mechanically (even with the "expert" engine rebuild last year).:(

[Aussie]

Sounds good post up a date/time and I'll lob over :)

[81stubee]

You mean someone else has a P38 close to me (ringwood)!

It would be good to have a P38 Meet sometime.

Stu

[parasnoop67]

I put a set of Boge shocks on my 4.6 then after 30k I replaced them with Bilstiens and the ride is definitely improved both on and off road. Basicaly I wanted more rebound damping to stop rolling and pitching off road.

[DT-P38]

I guess this is sort of a thread "high jack" here, but I just couldn't see the sense in starting another one...

So I went and saw Graeme down at BritCar in North Melbourne today and now have 4 new shocks in hand! ;) Also, the new steering dampner will be ready for pick up (or delivery) around lunch time tomorrow. :D Pricing was in line with that referred to previously in this thread and the gent is really, really helpful and knowledgable. e.g. he recommended and provided me item numbers for appropriate spark plugs (not expensive ones) and also 3 options for replacement leads that were all very affordable by my thinking.

Anyway, I'm thinking I had best actually do something about getting this suspension sorted now... :(

At this time, if the "unofficial Melbourne P38 supporters club" wants to come along and watch a hack backyarder have a crack at a suspension refresh my calendar is pointing at Sat. morning 20 or 27 March. Based on Aussie's estimates, it should all be done by midday and I will then chuck a few snags on the BBQ and assault the beer fridge...

I have a few other bits and pieces to look at after the suspensions done, but depending on motivation we will see what happens. For those interested they are:
- Change plugs, oil and filter;
- Find source of Oil leak(s);
- Change Diff and Transfer Case oils;
- Dismantle keys and see if I can get at least one to work;
- Fit AndrewE's EAS Bypass kit;
- Fit E-bay replacement mirror/reverse camera;
- Wire up spot lights;
- See if the later model oxygen sensors I bought by mistake can plug in and perhaps help the "pretty pig" pump better!

****, who am I kidding, I had best lock in both those Saturdays for "the pretty pig"!!!:(

Finally, I don't know whether or not this is the correct place to pump him up, but quite seriously, if you need anything for your P38 in Melbourne, I reckon you could do worse than to just give Graeme a call (03 9329 5766) for a chat and a quote. And in my P38 experience in Melbourne... you can easily do much worse! :wasntme:

[PaulP38a]

I was going to suggest posting your mechanics details in the "P38A Owner Recommended Garages" sticky but that is on rangerovers.net :wasntme: Perhaps we could start one here too? (eh Ron?)

If you're going to do it on the weekend of the 27-Mar I might come down for a drive and say g'day. It's my Dad's birthday that weekend and he is in Fitzroy these days. Would be good to meet some of the Melbourne "brotherhood" and give the Rangie a blast on the motorway... maybe even drive via Sale and Traralgon to visit my teenage stomping grounds :eek:

Cheers, Paul.

[DT-P38]

Cool Paul... will probably end up locking in both mornings. If your gonna come all that way, I may have to ramp things up and put a chop or two on the BBQ as well! :D Will lock it down for certain by the end of this week... want to see what the fellow Melbourninians are up for as well!;)

[Aussie]

Those dates sound good too me :)

[Junosi]

Ditto

[andrew e]

I'll try and have out first snorkel finished and fitted to pauls car by then if he ends up going, so you can all check it out.

Andy

[DT-P38]

Goody, goody, go for it Andy!!!

And probably avail. in time for winter too... Hip, Hip Hooray for HRA!!!

That might be a bit premature, but I honestly can't wait to swim the pretty pig!!! :twisted:

[Aussie]

ok I think I'm missing something here. Why would you want too put a snorkel on a petrol motor? Not too mention the fact that P38 and water just dont mix. By the time the snorkel is required the RR would be so far under the water that all its electrics would be rooted. Can someone enlighten me please.

[Junosi]

ok I think I'm missing something here. Why would you want too put a snorkel on a petrol motor? Not too mention the fact that P38 and water just dont mix. By the time the snorkel is required the RR would be so far under the water that all its electrics would be rooted. Can someone enlighten me please.

All very true. Only good thing I can see is possible improved airflow and/or cooler air - which are good things. I've put a some ducting pipe on my airbox routed under and forward to encourage cooler air in there.

I'm VERY wary about water now after destroying my Hilux in a *puddle* and that was a diesel equipped to run under water (almost) - no way I'm taking the P38 above the sills.

[bee utey]

Snorkels are mainly about cleaner air, bulldust is usually less dense at roof level. Also cheap turbocharging when you reach 100mph.:D

[DT-P38]

Well... if all thats true, then I had best stop swimming the Mrs 100 series petrol through creeks, rivers, etc up to the tops of the wheel arches and at times (admittedly very infrequently) over the bonnet. :D I suppose I may as well back those high set diff breathers out too! :p

Andy, Not doubting your knowledge, but that does prompt thoughts for me though... if the kit doesn't allow me to at least get up to the tops of the wheel arches, I will not be able to keep up with the other lads I generally get out bush with so will probably not get want a kit and will keep taking the mrs car out and leaving the "pretty pig" as a town car. As far as ingress into electronics, what else needs to be covered/waterproofed as a part of the kit? :angel:

[andrew e]

p38s are heaps easier to waterproof than the old classics as the coil pack is at the rear, not the front. If you get worried about wet plugs, go ape with the wd40 before you go near water. The low airbox is the letdown.

I dont mean you should park it in the water up to the dashtop like i could in my county, but you should be able to easily keep a bow wave coming over the bonnet without worry of stopping. The double door seals are pretty good, and water takes a while to seep through inside.


Andy

[PaulP38a]

The air intake at the front/top inner LH guard is ok most of the time, but you need to have the inner wheel arch in place...

I've driven my old P38A up/across a river with water almost on the bonnet. I had diff and transmission breathers, sprayed the engine bay liberally with silicon spray and had a MSA wading bra on the front. Shame I forgot to tape up the drain holes in the bottom of the doors.

Last time I did this, a dip in the riverbed broke momentum and the bow wave, letting water in to the air intake... broken engine, then water seepage killed the BeCM.

Newer Rangie... haven't taken it swimming past the sills yet, and my inner wheel arches are removed so I'm worried about splashes up to the air-intake.

I'm getting me a snorkel 'coz I want one... yeah cooller/higher air and all that but mainly 'coz I don't want to be afraid of puddles.

We've got 2 designs on the boil... a fairly industrial "fundamentals" model that would suit my "not so pretty" car, and a prettier "tourer" one that would suit Road Rangies. Might be a third model yet, but one or both of the others are the priority.

I don't want to turn this in to a salesy thread, but if you had to choose between a cheaper/functional snorkel and a more expensive/smoother model, which would you go for? A loaded question I know.. I want both (and now), but what I want (for me anyway) is to make my car better equipped for off-road and the on-road looks is secondary.

Interested to hear what you blokes have to say.

cheers
Paul.

[DT-P38]

I would take function over form any day... in saying that, if its all one colour (black probably best) and has a reasonably consistent form to it, the things not gonna be too stand out ugly anyway. :cool:

I've seen some backyarder versions made out of anodised alloy tube that come up all right on sports/extreme rigs, :twisted: but my preference would be black moulded plastic like the mainstream (safari, etc) stuff out there already.

Why don't you post up some sketches, photoshopped pic's of your ideas to date?

[andrew e]

I would take function over form any day... in saying that, if its all one colour (black probably best) and has a reasonably consistent form to it, the things not gonna be too stand out ugly anyway. :cool:

I've seen some backyarder versions made out of anodised alloy tube that come up all right on sports/extreme rigs, :twisted: but my preference would be black moulded plastic like the mainstream (safari, etc) stuff out there already.

Why don't you post up some sketches, photoshopped pic's of your ideas to date?

The problem with a round tube snorkel though, is you need somthing almost 4" in diameter to give enough flow. The rangie has fairly flat sides, and if you have a round pipe sticking out 100mm, it looks so out of place. If its a square-ish shape, i can cut that down to about 70mm and keep tha same flow as a 100mm round one.

No spy pics yet, but mabe by the end of the weekend if i get enough done.

Andy

[Junosi]

but if you had to choose between a cheaper/functional snorkel and a more expensive/smoother model, which would you go for?

Hard to say without seeing either version. Personally I won't be sticking anything too ugly on mine

[Hoges]

Originally Posted by DT-P38 "I would take function over form any day..."

Absolutely! :BigThumb:

[PaulP38a]

Why don't you post up some sketches, photoshopped pic's of your ideas to date?

I'll leave the "spy pics" to Andy, but I might have a play with PhotoShop/GiMP or Visio to mock up the current designs for your feedback.

After all, the P38A owners on this forum are the "target market" for this product... after me that is ;):D

Cheers, Paul.

[PaulP38a]

Here is a rough and ready mock-up of the snorkel concept on the well-known RAVE image... my car was too dark to show the snorkel lines.
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/3245-1/snorkel-v-002.jpg

The "Fundamentals" version uses rubberised bends and stainless tubing.
Tubing could be black or polished depending on preference.
The head could be a Safari or any number of generic brands. This can be made available fairly quickly once we solve the airbox sealing challenge.

The "Tourer" is moulded plastic or reinforced fibre, shaped "boxy smooth", sits closer to the guard. It will likely be significantly more expensive than the "Fundamentals" snorkel due to tooling costs.

Both models are external to the LH guard, cut-in forward of the wheel arch. We are not seriously considering routing behind/around the EAS box at this time. We want to make this kit suitable for LHD and RHD models, with or without EAS. Routing inside the engine bay is hazardous due to proximity of hot components. Routing inside the guard, above the wheel arch does not give sufficient air-flow volume without significant additional moulding and loss of clearance for wheel articulation, plus reduced fluid dynamics effects of non-symmetric surfaces.

Kits are intended to be DIY with a template to cut-in at the guard, and mount points for riv-nuts (or simlar) on guard and A-pillar. We will supply all components other than Sikaflex (or equivalent) to seal joins, or tools to cut, drill, screw, etc.

...but, as I have said before... me first :D... installation instructions will be supplied in hard and soft-copy and documented step-by-step with pics based on install on my car and one or two other "early adopters".

Patent applications are in progress...;)... only to deter the a__holes, not stop them completely. We might even be able to prempt them if we can engage a Chinese maufacturer first ;)... but I'd prefer to keep it "Made in Oz".

Over to you guys for feedback...

Cheers, Paul.

[ytt105]

With the black pipework, I think it will look fine on "our" coloured cars!

Personally, I'm not too sure I'd want the polished look with the contrasting black, but each to their own.

If the pipe is going to be black, wouldn't powdercoated mild steel be cheaper than stainless?

Any rough idea of cost?

If you need any help come installation, or an 'early adopter', let me know, I'm in Wanniassa.

[DT-P38]

I'm in, and happy to be the VIC protoype. ;) All black is the go from my perspective too. Even the "pretty pig" has enough black/dark grey contrasting paint outs for it to blend in ok. Probably too early, but whats the target sell $'s?

I am also guessing that it is going to be possible to upgrade from "fundamental" to "tourer" using the same holes cut for the fundamental? Assuming the fundamental will be ready to go first, I'll jump on and then probably upgrade later (if I don't get smitten with the "basic" version!). :cool:

Not certain, but it looks similar to one I have seen before some where? Or am I just getting a little delirious? :eek:

[Aussie]

Guys can you add a dual exhaust OR cat back Exhaust to your list of goodies? I dont really want too send off too the UK too get a Cat Back.

[Junosi]

Any decent exhaust shop should be able to do that for you - to whatever spec you like. Cost me about $500 to get mine done I think, cat back to twin tips

[Aussie]

Any decent exhaust shop should be able to do that for you

I'd rather give my $$$ too the fellas :)

[PaulP38a]

Any rough idea of cost?

If you need any help come installation, or an 'early adopter', let me know, I'm in Wanniassa.

We're aiming for less than $350 for the "Tourer" which is less than most other decent snorkles out there. Final manufacturing costs aren't in yet, but if all goes well we might even be able to get it to under $300. If the "Fundamentals" ever sees light of day (Andy doesn't like it, but I do like the industrial look of it) it should be under $250.

Location noted YTT105... me and RRP38A live about 15mins north and over the border from you :D


I am also guessing that it is going to be possible to upgrade from "fundamental" to "tourer" using the same holes cut for the fundamental? Assuming the fundamental will be ready to go first, I'll jump on and then probably upgrade later (if I don't get smitten with the "basic" version!). :cool:
It makes perfect sense that it should be the case that the holes are the same for the two versions. As the future (or beginning) of the "Fundamentals" is uncertain, it may yet be a non-issue.


Not certain, but it looks similar to one I have seen before some where? Or am I just getting a little delirious? :eek:
There was a Disco II (or I) on the forum quite a while ago that had a home-made snorkel made of rubber bends and stainless pipe. I thought it was cool, but can't take credit as this was Andy's idea with a bit of input from me... I liked the polished finish, he prefered the black/power-coated :D.


Guys can you add a dual exhaust OR cat back Exhaust to your list of goodies? I dont really want too send off too the UK too get a Cat Back.
Not on the radar yet Aussie, but I guess I could go to the guy who made mine up and ask what sort of discount he could give us if we got a kit going and made up a few at a time.

Cheers, Paul.

[Remy]

Not as big on the industrial look as you guys - quite like the safari plastic moulded jobs even of they have to run along the guard. looking forward to seeing the products and if you do travel to Melb then Wagga is a nice halfway stop if you want a rest or a beer :)

[PaulP38a]

Yes, Wagga Wagga would be nice half-way stop if I was travelling to Melbourne from Canberra via Dubbo ;)

Must be 10 years since I've been to Wagga Wagga. Might come for a trip out there one day. I'd don't mind the drive to Tumut through the Brindabellas, and I think Wagga is only about another 100Km from there.

Cheers
Paul.