View Full Version : Reduction gears
Aaron40
29th January 2010, 11:22 AM
This week time for new tyres going to try 265/75 16
The next move will be some ARB lockers... my question is when going to lockers if your doing both diffs this is obviously a good time to put reduction gears in, I have been reading about 4.11's such as "That kid" has recently done. Is this the correct gearing for 32" tyres? to get it back to stock...
Do you get this gearing from ARB or order from ashcrofts?
Thanks for advice...
Aaron.
Redback
29th January 2010, 12:08 PM
This week time for new tyres going to try 265/75 16
The next move will be some ARB lockers... my question is when going to lockers if your doing both diffs this is obviously a good time to put reduction gears in, I have been reading about 4.11's such as "That kid" has recently done. Is this the correct gearing for 32" tyres? to get it back to stock...
Do you get this gearing from ARB or order from ashcrofts?
Thanks for advice...
Aaron.
I would suggest not to go to 4.11s if only fitting 32s, they are really only suited to 33s and above.
Get a power upgrade instead, cheaper and you won't lose your cruise control.
With the lockers you'll need to upgrade your axles as well and if you have the money, stronger CVs too, Ashcrofts have a CV and axle upgrade kit for D2s now, it's available through Rovacraft in Aust.
Baz.
Aaron40
29th January 2010, 12:20 PM
Thanks Baz,
I got my CDL kit from Rovercraft they were great.
I will check it out, that way I can start with just one locker.... and look at the power upgrade.
Aaron.
Aaron40
30th January 2010, 02:56 PM
If your installing a rear locker, how important is it to replace CV's and half shafts with the stronger Ashcroft units? or is it more for the front?
that_kid
1st February 2010, 09:11 PM
i sourced all of my ashcroft gear through les richmond automotive in melbourne and found them to be excellent in both service and as a source of information. ARB dont supply you with the new crown wheel and pinions that you will need to get yourself.
I chose to run the 4.11's with the intention of going up to a 35" in the near future. correct gearing for this would have been a 285/75r16 or a 33" tire, near as makes no difference.
Im not sure what redback means by you would lose cruise control with the 4.11 on a 32" tire? I had mine at 120 on the cruise control revving at 2200rpm for about 2hrs on saturday just fine. And if anything the over reduction of the gearing on the 32's has made the car so much better to drive!! goes up hill on the highway on the cruise control and wont even bat an eye!
back on topic, if your only doing a rear locker your front shafts and cvs wont cop an more load, but it is advisable you do do the rear axles. If your doing the rear locker and gearing you will have to go to a uni to uni tailshaft as the rotoflex coupling wont like alot of work with the locker for long. It cost me $285 to have my standard shaft re-tubed in a 3mm wall tube, lenghthened and the second uni added, and $65 for the replacement pinion flange.
hope that helps a little :)
Redback
2nd February 2010, 07:38 AM
i sourced all of my ashcroft gear through les richmond automotive in melbourne and found them to be excellent in both service and as a source of information. ARB dont supply you with the new crown wheel and pinions that you will need to get yourself.
I chose to run the 4.11's with the intention of going up to a 35" in the near future. correct gearing for this would have been a 285/75r16 or a 33" tire, near as makes no difference.
Im not sure what redback means by you would lose cruise control with the 4.11 on a 32" tire? I had mine at 120 on the cruise control revving at 2200rpm for about 2hrs on saturday just fine. And if anything the over reduction of the gearing on the 32's has made the car so much better to drive!! goes up hill on the highway on the cruise control and wont even bat an eye!
back on topic, if your only doing a rear locker your front shafts and cvs wont cop an more load, but it is advisable you do do the rear axles. If your doing the rear locker and gearing you will have to go to a uni to uni tailshaft as the rotoflex coupling wont like alot of work with the locker for long. It cost me $285 to have my standard shaft re-tubed in a 3mm wall tube, lenghthened and the second uni added, and $65 for the replacement pinion flange.
hope that helps a little :)
OK I was told you would lose cruise if going to 4.11s, well my bad sorry.
A chip would still be a lot cheaper.
Those revs seem a bit low at 120kph, I have 32s on standard gearing and I'm around 2300/2400 at 110, I would think that I should have lower revs having a taller ratio on 32s.
Baz.
disco_thrasher
2nd February 2010, 09:30 AM
OK I was told you would lose cruise if going to 4.11s, well my bad sorry.
A chip would still be a lot cheaper.
Those revs seem a bit low at 120kph, I have 32s on standard gearing and I'm around 2300/2400 at 110, I would think that I should have lower revs having a taller ratio on 32s.
Baz.
when you put reductions in the diff you loose cruise control ,that_kid i dont know how you running your cruise control let alone running 120km/h at 2200rpm ,
but anyway stranger things have happened
cheers kelvin
Franz
2nd February 2010, 02:23 PM
This week time for new tyres going to try 265/75 16
The next move will be some ARB lockers... my question is when going to lockers if your doing both diffs this is obviously a good time to put reduction gears in, I have been reading about 4.11's such as "That kid" has recently done. Is this the correct gearing for 32" tyres? to get it back to stock...
Do you get this gearing from ARB or order from ashcrofts?
Thanks for advice...
Aaron.
I've been runnings 265's for many years and have not bothered to get 4.11's. Much of my driving is to remote areas at highway speeds and the engine spins at a lazy 2050 RPM @ 100 (far better thatn the 2300 @ 100 on standard tyres). Off road and in stop start traffic the engine works harder but my chip makes that bearable. If I went for bigger tyres, then yes but I'm not going there.
Piddler
2nd February 2010, 05:17 PM
I've been runnings 265's for many years and have not bothered to get 4.11's. Much of my driving is to remote areas at highway speeds and the engine spins at a lazy 2050 RPM @ 100 (far better thatn the 2300 @ 100 on standard tyres). Off road and in stop start traffic the engine works harder but my chip makes that bearable. If I went for bigger tyres, then yes but I'm not going there.
Same here and agree
cheers
that_kid
2nd February 2010, 05:32 PM
mines an auto i dont know if that helps?
i was quite surprised i was expecting it to rev its head off but it just doesnt, having said that i have noticed the reduction in top end performance but then again it never really had any to speak of....
but i promise you cruise control well n trully works!!! :) why wouldnt it?
Blknight.aus
2nd February 2010, 07:16 PM
the latest version of cruise control takes an input from the wheel sensors for TC as well as
Engine RPM
Gearbox output speed
in the event of it being an auto it also reads
Gear selection (cruise will engage in any gear thats capable of minimum cruise speed)
Gearbox input speed
all in the name of getting a smoother more effecient cruise control that doesnt hunt as much or power on as agressively.
if something doesnt line up on the new system it turns off.
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