D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

[sniegy]

Morning all,
Thought i would post up some photo's i have for the new D4 Electric trailer brakes.
The wiring has changed in the Discovery 4 which is a good thing as it is easier to wire.
Now lets begin & hopefully it will be clear for all to follow.

Trailer Plug info(7 Pin Plug):- Australian Regs:-
Pin1 Yellow Left Indicator
Pin2 Black Reverse/Auxilary
Pin3 White Earth
Pin4 Green Right Indicator
Pin5 Blue Electric trailer brakes/Auxilary
Pin6 Red Brakes
Pin7 Brown Tail lights


As per usual 4 wires:-
Black +ve direct to battery via Circuit Breaker.
White -ve direct to battery/battery post.
Red Connection to brake light wire in trailer loom.
Blue Connection to Pin No. 5 on Black trailer plug socket.
You will need to run Black & White wire to the front of the vehicle & the Red & Blue wire to the rear of the vehicle under the L/H/S tail light.
All 4 wires will run from the position you decide to place your Electric trailer brake unit. (normally at the L/H top edge of the panel under the steering wheel).
When removing this panel just grab the top section & pull in an arc downward, if you brake, lose the clips the part number is FYC500040.

In this photo below i have had to find the splice joint in the wiring loom for the park light circuit (all European vehicles run a left & a right park light circuit in there vehicle wiring loom)
It is basically one wire feeding 2 Pin outs. (Pin 7 is our park light circuit & Pin 5 is our supply for our Electric trailer brake varying voltge).
Remove the L/H/R tail light assembly by undoing the 2 phillips head screws & then prising the light gentry from the body with a flat blade & cloth inserted between them so as not to scratch the paint work.
Cut away the black tape on the loom that goes down to the bottom connector, you will come across the splice joint (brown cable with glue coming out on connection-you will notice it starts as a black wire only & after this splice joint it will have a brown & black coming out). The black wire goes to Pin no. 7 & is your park light wire, the brown wire is the other park light wire that we do not need & connect the blue wire to for your trailer brakes. Cut wire as close to splice as possible, tape splice joint up & connect your blue wire to the brown wire that now goes to the plug in the wiring loom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/3.jpg

What we have done is basically supply the cut brown wire the varying voltage for your trailer brakes via the blue wire we have run.
The red wire just connects to the red wire in the same loom that goes to the bottom plug, this is the brake light wire pick up.
In this photo you can just make out the 2 connections & the cut of the brown wire.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/4.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/5.jpg

The photo above just shows the exit point on the firewall (rubber grommet) that i passed the cable through. This is on the drivers side brake booster compartment.
Below shows how i cable tied up nice & neatly the Black & White wire to connect directly to the battery via a Circuit breaker & Earth post next to the Main battery box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/6.jpg

On the new vehicles there is no 2nd fuse box in the rear nor the need for the Diode.

Cheers all.

p.s. sorry for the poor quality images, from my phone. Will hopefully get better pics when i can.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Straight to the TGO "Pool Room":D

[White D4]

Hi Sniegy, I pick up my new White D4 on Thursday and need to fit a electronic brake controler, what brand did you use?

Cheers

[sniegy]

Hi WhiteD4,
The most common units we are asked by customers to fit are either the Tekonsha Prodigy/Voyager or plain jane Hayman Reese unit.
To wire in they are all the same, its just the adjustments on the unit that differ.
I have also wired in Red Arc (my personal fave) with & without the remote head & a few others that the names i dont recall.
It just depends on what you tow, ease of use to you & how fancy you want the unit to look.

Cheers & Congrats on the new beast

[mowog]

How long does it take to do a brake controller install on a D4?

edit...

Roughly how much should this job cost on a D4 for a P3 Supply and install?

[sniegy]

Hi Mowog,
This would give a rough estimate as not sure of what costs are involved in diffrent states etc.

Normally around 2 - 2 1/2 hrs,
+
Electric Trailer Brake Unit,
+
Circuit Breaker,
+
Wire/connectors etc (Sundries)

I can only assume but around
the 750-800 dollar mark, depending on labour rates, price of unit etc etc.

[mowog]

sniegy

Do mind if I send you a PM with some more detailed questions in regard to the trailer electric prep done by the selling dealer?

[sniegy]

Please do, as that is why i am here.
Cheers.

[White D4]

Hi Again

I was at the dealer where we are buying our caravan from today and he told me that i will need a special adaptor box from LR that connects to the trailer plug. I apparently need this due to the fact the caravan has LED lights and without this box the van will be like dodgy Xmas tree.

I am told this box will set me bag a further $250. Funny thing is i spoke to the landy dealer i am getting the vehicle from and he doesn't know much about this.

Can you shed some light on it for me.

Cheers
Paul

[mowog]

I have LED's on my van. I tested my lights over the Australia day weekend. They worked fine.

[sniegy]

Hi White D4,
The earlier D3's had an issue with the indivator lights flashing like hazard lights when trailer in tow with LED tail lights.
This was due to the circuitry in the vehicle doing a continual pulse check via the indicator lights-hence why it will flash.
BUT on the D4 it works a little different, they have counter acted this to a point, no the lights will no longer flash, but if the "Led Adaptor Module" (see here home (www) (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/) ) is not fitted then you will still have problems with the reverse park sensors continually beeping when reverse is selected as they are supposed to turn off (the vehicle will not pick up on the extra load due to LED's operating instead of normal incandescent globes). Some poeple can live with this & some cant!

HTH. :)

[Dingmark Jim]

If the D4 doesn't "find" a trailer with only LEDs on it, then the D4 should also go to "extended height" when put in Rock Crawl, as it doesn't see a trailer.

[White D4]

thanks Sniegy, I might try without it first as with my current Pathfinder R51 you have to turn them off via a switch in the back and i always forget so it hasn't bothered me for the last 3 years.

I have selective hearing so the missus tells me.:angel:

Thanks for your knowledge mate much appreciated, now only one sleep to go until i get my Disco 4.:D

[sniegy]

If the D4 doesn't "find" a trailer with only LEDs on it, then the D4 should also go to "extended height" when put in Rock Crawl, as it doesn't see a trailer.
Jim, This is also possible as i have yet to try.


thanks Sniegy, I might try without it first as with my current Pathfinder R51 you have to turn them off via a switch in the back and i always forget so it hasn't bothered me for the last 3 years.

I have selective hearing so the missus tells me.:angel:

Thanks for your knowledge mate much appreciated, now only one sleep to go until i get my Disco 4.:D
Congrats, you will have so much fun in your new beast.

[gghaggis]

Hmm ........ so does this mean that the D4, like the D3, will not recognise that a trailer is connected if it has LED's period??

So no trailer stability, no disabling of the tranny adaptations (so that it doesn't 'learn' based on a trailer attached) etc etc?

This could be a bit of a problem !!

Cheers,

Gordon

[mowog]

If I connect my caravan (electrically) what should I expect the car to do?

I did test the connection and all the lights worked as required. I have LED tail lights and the clearance lights are standard bulbs. The car gave me no indication the caravan was connected other than the brake controller showing a connection.

Does the weight of trailer also need to be on the car for it to detect a van is attached?

[sniegy]

Hmm ........ so does this mean that the D4, like the D3, will not recognise that a trailer is connected if it has LED's period??

So no trailer stability, no disabling of the tranny adaptations (so that it doesn't 'learn' based on a trailer attached) etc etc?

This could be a bit of a problem !!

Cheers,

Gordon
Gordon, Yes. Hence why we still recommend an LED adaptor module.
Once this is connected the vehicle will work as with normal incandescent globes.


If I connect my caravan (electrically) what should I expect the car to do?

I did test the connection and all the lights worked as required. I have LED tail lights and the clearance lights are standard bulbs. The car gave me no indication the caravan was connected other than the brake controller showing a connection.

Does the weight of trailer also need to be on the car for it to detect a van is attached?

Mowog, The vehicle will not really do anything, it wont flash on the panel trailer connected or such. As u have found out the Electric trailer brake is an indication you have a trailer connected & it is sensing that connection.

The lights will work even if u do have LED's, but the ecu will not pick up drain from normal globes (incandescents) so it thinks a trailer is not connected.

Normally it would stop the Rear park sensors from working, so if u select reverse with trailer connected, it will probably continually beep at you, it trailer oscillation speed would decrease for trailer stabilty to operate correctly too.

Weight being connected to the vehicle has no bearing, the only system this gets working is Air Suspension, regardless whether you have a heavy trailer or the loaded with bricks.

HTH.

Cheers.

[DiscoSaffa]

Normally it would stop the Rear park sensors from working, so if u select reverse with trailer connected, it will probably continually beep at you.......

I towed for the first time with my D3 last weekend, and was decidedly annoyed by the constant beep when reversing..... based on what you are saying here, my car didn't pick up that it had a trailer.... :confused:

My brother in-law's 05/06 D3 has a button that can disable the reverse sensors, I wonder why they did away with that...... :confused:

[gghaggis]

Gordon, Yes. Hence why we still recommend an LED adaptor module.
Once this is connected the vehicle will work as with normal incandescent globes.


Thanks Sniegy, at least that's an improvement on the D3 - mine doesn't recognise the trailer even with an LED shunt module. By the way, when the D3 does recognise a trailer, it flashes a trailer icon when you first activate an indicator. Doesn't the D4 do the same?

Cheers,

Gordon

[mowog]

How much will the LED module cost?

Am I going to have to surrender my first born?

Actually I would be willing to surrender my youngest. He should be an asset to anyone because the little **** knows everything.

[sniegy]

Thanks Sniegy, at least that's an improvement on the D3 - mine doesn't recognise the trailer even with an LED shunt module. By the way, when the D3 does recognise a trailer, it flashes a trailer icon when you first activate an indicator. Doesn't the D4 do the same?

Cheers,

Gordon
Gordon, I havent even noticed when fitting trailer brakes with our test board:eek:, just very busy, I have yet to also tow anything with a D4, so next time i go to work i will have a quick gander...HHMmmm.
I would assume it will, but....


How much will the LED module cost?

Am I going to have to surrender my first born?

Actually I would be willing to surrender my youngest. He should be an asset to anyone because the little sh*t knows everything.

$295 + shipping.
Just a plug & play module.
If u do want one let me know & i will organise one to you.
I will be back at work on Tues. 03 9684 1021 direct.
Cheers.

p.s. Mowog can u answer Gordon's question above?

[mowog]

The only indication I got that the van was connected was from the brake controller.

The owners manual says its suppose to come up on the center info screen...

[roamer]

Thanks Sniegy, at least that's an improvement on the D3 - mine doesn't recognise the trailer even with an LED shunt module. By the way, when the D3 does recognise a trailer, it flashes a trailer icon when you first activate an indicator. Doesn't the D4 do the same?

Cheers,

Gordon

HI Gordon, when van on there is a trailer symbol that flashes with blinkers,
T.R .also knows and does not go to off road auto, have LED on van, and shunt.
Cheers Ken

[DDdisco]

Has anyone got pics of where they mount the controllers in a D3. I'm keen to drill as few holes as possible. I have a Hayman Reese controller sitting at home, but is there a better option?

Cheers

[amaruskanic]

DDDisco,
I have my Hayman Reese attached to the centre console. Between the console and the drivers seat and just behind the cup holder.
I used heavy duty double sided tape, so no holes required and hasnt moved at all. Its easily reached by the passenger or driver in this position if required.
Andrew

[gmorris]

[QUOTE=sniegy;1175069]Hi WhiteD4,
The most common units we are asked by customers to fit are either the Tekonsha Prodigy/Voyager or plain jane Hayman Reese unit.
To wire in they are all the same, its just the adjustments on the unit that differ.
I have also wired in Red Arc (my personal fave) with & without the remote head & a few others that the names i dont recall.
It just depends on what you tow, ease of use to you & how fancy you want the unit to look.

Where do you put the red arc remote untis in a D4

[White D4]

Hi Everyone

I went to my dealer to discuss the LED Module for the D4, all the mechanics there advised me that i don't need this for the 2.7 D4.

The LEDs on the caravan will work fine without it and even if i had a module connected the reverse sensors will still beep.

I was told not to waste the $300, these modules are only needed for the D3 & for the D4 SE, HSE because of the trailer sway assist.

Oh and the Prodigy P3 is on Ebay for $174 including delivery.

Cheers
Paul

[sniegy]

[QUOTE=sniegy;1175069]Hi WhiteD4,
The most common units we are asked by customers to fit are either the Tekonsha Prodigy/Voyager or plain jane Hayman Reese unit.
To wire in they are all the same, its just the adjustments on the unit that differ.
I have also wired in Red Arc (my personal fave) with & without the remote head & a few others that the names i dont recall.
It just depends on what you tow, ease of use to you & how fancy you want the unit to look.

Where do you put the red arc remote untis in a D4
Mount them in the panel that sits below the steering wheel as it is honeycomb.
All you end up with is just the control knob & LED protruding.;)

[sniegy]

Hi Everyone

I went to my dealer to discuss the LED Module for the D4, all the mechanics there advised me that i don't need this for the 2.7 D4.

The LEDs on the caravan will work fine without it and even if i had a module connected the reverse sensors will still beep.

I was told not to waste the $300, these modules are only needed for the D3 & for the D4 SE, HSE because of the trailer sway assist.

Oh and the Prodigy P3 is on Ebay for $174 including delivery.

Cheers
Paul
2.7 still has trailer assist ?

[rmp]

Hi Everyone

I went to my dealer to discuss the LED Module for the D4, all the mechanics there advised me that i don't need this for the 2.7 D4.

The LEDs on the caravan will work fine without it and even if i had a module connected the reverse sensors will still beep.

I was told not to waste the $300, these modules are only needed for the D3 & for the D4 SE, HSE because of the trailer sway assist.

Oh and the Prodigy P3 is on Ebay for $174 including delivery.

Cheers
Paul

Trailer Assist is nothing to do with the LED issue. Trailer assist works only on the towcar, not through the trailer brakes. The 2.7 has TSA anyway and I strongly suspect the LED module will be needed as the D3 needs it.

Can we ask which dealer?

[White D4]

Evening Gents

Purnell in Blakehurst Syd. Now i am getting confused. I pick up my Caravan in a few weeks and need to get this sorted.

Any more info would be nice.

Cheers guys

[rmp]

Well what would you like to know?

(after you've read the FAQ and searched and not found the answers...)

[sniegy]

As Rob said Paul, Ask away, i am not too clear what info you require.

The D4 will require the LED module to get things like the Trailer assit to work properly when the trailer is connected (as it will adjust the oscillations)as all the Discovery 4 models come with Trailer assist.
Also for the rear park assist to work(or stop working when the trailer is connected).

HTH.

Cheers.

[Graeme]

when van on there is a trailer symbol that flashes with blinkers
Where's the symbol? My trailer has incandescent globes and I haven't seen any extra indications.

[roamer]

Little green trailer symbol comes on when blinkers flash.in tacho screen

[Watpub]

Hi Sniegy,

I'm new to this forum. I'm picking up a D4 (hopefully) in June and will need a brake controller and most likely an LED module fitted. In one of your replies you indicate that you do this.

Where abouts in Melbourne are you and how do I get in touch with you? Also, there's a Prodigy P3 on fleabay for $169 - is it worth getting this do you reckon?

Thanks

Watpub

[sniegy]

Hi Watpub,
I actually work for a dealer in Melbourne. (MLR).
Not sure where you are picking up your vehicle from, but either way i can organise one or both components you require.
Work email is psnieg@mlr.com.au if you require any further info. or just PM me here.

The Electric brake units are a personal thing, i have a RedArc Remote head in mine & love it. But each to there own.
The P3 prodigy some people swear by & other dont like them...Its just like tyres...:p

Cheers.

[sniegy]

I thought i would clean up a few of the not-so-good photo's.
So this is my vehicle i have fitted a Red Arc remote head trailer brake unit.
Principle is the same as the original post, but with a few tips i have added to help those who wish to tackle this job.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1261.jpg

I could of mounted the LED & Switch/Dial vertical, but actually prefered it this way.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1262.jpg

As you can see from the photo below the cover is a honeycomb design, therefore allowing a die grinder & some patience to go to work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1263.jpg

I pushed a screwdriver through the insulation from the engine bat so i could run the cables. Just a not the firewall is double skinned as you can see in the photo.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/161.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/162.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/163.jpg

The side sill step panels are easy to remove, just be gentle lifting up. If you lose a clip that holds the sill panel down you may be searching for a while as the section they fall into is rather long & deep. You will need a long nose pliers & a magnet on a stick.;)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1264.jpg

The "B" Pillar middle section just pops off with 4 platic clips, pull pull towards the centre of the vehicle to remove

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1265.jpg

You can see the cable i have run in the photo's (greyish color) It is heatshrink wrapped around the Red & Blue wires, the cable will easliy fit in between the rubber door seal & under the felt see next photo. Lift up door seal felt from being folded & place cable in between & then fold felt down again.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1266.jpg

TBC

[sniegy]

Feed the cable between the door seal & trims, push the cable along the rear 1/4 panel trim & it will drop to the bottom of the panel, stick fingers up behind panel & take out, feed to rear section & take cable out where jack door is.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1249.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1250.jpg

Remove this panel by undoing the 3 M6 threaded bolt heads (10mm socket), when undone lift panel upwards, it will slide out. The centre clip may come off as some do, just refit it & the panel will slide back on again.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1251.jpg

Once removed place cable from corner of jack door to under the carpet, lay cable under carpet all the way along the rear & do the same for the towbar hitch door on the passenger side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1252.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1253.jpg

Now Remove tail light assembly as described in original post-carefully remove 2 screws

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1254.jpg

Now find these 2 rubber grommets & pirce with screw driver to feed cable from inside vehicle to outside. Dont stab ya fingers:cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1255.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1256.jpg

As you can see in this photo, i have located the loom i needed, It will be the one with the brown, black & red wires we need. You wil also notice the "Splice Joint" covered in heat shrink & glue. This is what we need to find after removing some of the insulation tape.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1257.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1258.jpg

Once you have found the Splice Joint, we need to cut away the Brown wire as this goes to Pin No.5 Our trailer brake feed. Tape up the splice joint as you will have a little of the brown wire poking out & tuck away.
Now connect the Blue wire to the Brown wire.
Now Find the red wire in the same loom & cut in half, make sure both sections are easy to get to as you will need to crimp both ends.
Connect the Red wire from the loom & the Red wire you have run into one end of a crimp. Crimp the other Red wire to the opposite crimp & connect together.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1259.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1260.jpg

Tape up & tie out of the way, refit light & wire up the front section via a circuit breaker as per original photos.

Check opertion & away you go.

[Duck's Guts]

Thank you Sniegy.Thank you, THANK YOU.
The info & photos you provided made this job an absolute breeze. I would have struggled for days without them & the inspiration that they provided.

I loved the minimalistic idea of the Redarc remote head so that's what I insatlled. Same postion as Sniegy's. Easy done.

I only made one change to the wiring circuit. I placed an inline 20amp fuse immediately on the end of the red wire from the EBC unit before continuing the wire run to the rear. I saw this on another circuit diagram for another brand of EBC & thought it a good insurance policy.

The only thing remaining for this installation is to test the pin5 aux brake ouput at the rear black trailer plug. That will happen today so hopefully it all works.

[Duck's Guts]

Passed all testing with flying colours.

Also hooked up the c/van to 'live' test.
On the first blink of each application of the c/van LED indicators the green trailer symbol lights on the dash, but only on the first blink.
Put the D4 in reverse & the rear park sensors go insane.
So, the D4 doesn't recognise that the c/van is there.

Now, my c/van has two LED indicators on each side. I was able to change one on each side for an incandescent bulb.

Problem solved. The green trailer symbol lights on the dash on each blink. The reverse parking sensors are now disabled.

If I wish to return the incandescent bulbs back to LEDs I was thinking of soldering a simple resistor in line at the light fitting itself.
Surely that should solve the problem?
Just wonder what size resistor & any other ill effects that may result?
Perhaps I could ohm test the incandescent bulb vs a LED unit & calc the difference as the resistor size required?
Any comments?

Cheers,
Marc...

[harlie]

Hi Guys.

I’ve been following this for a while and thought I might share my experiences. I have recently purchased a 2005 L322 Range Rover and have a camper with LEDs. Unlike the D3/4 the Range Rover pulses brake lights and tail lights as well.

I’ve made my own “shunt box” to handle all 4 circuits (brake, tail, L & R indicator), to stop the flashing, disable the rear park sensors and allow the car to put limitations on suspension and what ever else it does (according to the manual quite a bit). I also wanted the trailer module (in car) to continue its function of monitoring the tail lights (I know LEDs rarely fail but they still can), the Rangie will detect if a LED light is functioning or not it just also causes them to continually flash as well…

Glad to report my box has achieved this, the car knows the trailer is there and does it thing, the lights don’t flash and if I unplug one of the tail lights (at the light) I still get the message on the dash that there is a problem.

Is there anyone in the Brisbane area (east side) with a D3/4 that is interested to test my little box on their car? My schematic is absurdly simple and I’m interested to see if it works on a D3/RRS or D4. If it works I’ll be happy to post details in the trailer section.

Also interested to know if the shunt available handles 4 circuits or just indicators and does it allow the car to detect a light failure?

[Duck's Guts]

Thanks Harlie. If I was near you I would offer my D4. I'm very interested to hear/see more on your solution.
I hope someone else can help out here with a local vehicle...

[never too old]

I have recently bought a D4 SE with the 3.0 litre engine and it is fabulous. Having read this thread while in the fact finding stage before deciding to buy the Disco I have bought an LED adaptor and a Prodigy P3 brake controller for pulling our Bushtracker caravan. I had the P3 fitted by a 4WD specialist but am having some problems. When I have tried to set up the power level on the P3 by applying the manual knob there is no response from the caravan brakes. I pushed the power level to the maximum of 12.8 but still got no obvious response from the brakes. When I applied the foot brakes the voltage went to a maximum of 3.4 volts which the auto electrician advised, when I took the Disco and caravan to be checked, is insufficient to operate the brakes on the caravan. They couldn't find any problems with the wiring and so it is possible that the P3 is faulty.

I'm wondering whether anyone else has had similar problems?

Andrew

[Brick]

Andrew,

I fitted a P3 to my D4 (also fitted one to my D3) following Sniegy's instructions and it works fine. Perhaps before you pull the unit out, use the boost button (top right button IIRC) and try it set to a different level (you can choose between 1 and 3) and see if that helps.

Cheers

[never too old]

Thanks Cameron

I set the Boost setting to B3 and with the power set at maximum I found that when I applied the manual level the D4 and caravan were stopped from about 20kph. This was only a gradual slow and stop and no hint of really effective braking. From the instructions that came with the P3 I would have expected the brakes on the caravan to lock up at these maximum settings. The controller is obviously working to some degree but it worries me that there doesn't seem to be enough braking from the van.

Any other thoughts? I might just go to a brake specialist and see if they can help.

Cheers, Andy

[Brick]

Andy,

That's a bit of a bugger. I run my 21' van on 6.5v with no boost.

The only other thing I can suggest is the problem may be with either the LED module or the van itself. Is the LED module tapped into the existing van wiring or do or the wires run through the module? Perhaps check all are connected properly. Have you tried another van or trailer to see if that works. That might help pin point the problem.

After that I am out of ideas other than having someone check the P3 unit. At least it can be Removed without the wiring harness.

Best of luck.

[disco4now]

Hi Andrew,

I have a D4 3.0 and Prodigy P3 connect to a Bushtracker as well. Install the P3 myself following details on here, works fine, though for first few 100K had accidently turned the power right down an did not have much breaking on van, did not really notice as I was taking pretty easy at first.

I have just hooked up and taken a few measurements for you, closest thing I can do to going away for now. The P3 has some really handy diagnosics you may not have come across yet. Access the by pressing the bottom right hand button (looks like and open book) and then arrow down to help, select that with OK (the book button), arrow down again to troubleshooting and select that with OK (the book button).
You can now arrow through 4 readings which should help diagnose the problem. ie.
1. Battery Voltage
2. stop light voltage (what you get to trigger the thing from the brake light)
3. Output voltage
4. Output Current (this should be very useful)

Here are my results. First hook up, have the motor running, (well power on at least). Set power to maximum for the testing. (however I only need about 6.0 or less in normal running.) Set to B1 for now.

Check for these results.
Measurement -- Battery Voltage
-------------------------------
No brakes applied --> 13.84 Volts ie battery voltage
Manual Override applied --> 13.77 Volts. (A slight drop due to current being draw, if no drop you have big wires or not drawing any current which we will pickup further down)
Press foot brake --> same as Manual Override

Measurement -- Stop Light.
---------------------------
No Brakes --> close to 0
Foot Brake --> 13.84 ie the full battery voltage
Manual Override Applied --> 13.39 (This is output from the P3 and is what goes back down the brake light wire to put brake lights on when using Manual Override)

Measurement -- Output Voltage
-------------------------------
This is what P3 thinks is going to the van.

No brakes --> close to 0

Foot Brake --> 1.5V (B1 (Boost1)), 3.4V(B2) , 3.4V(B3). The pridogy is proportional, if you are not actually stopping (ie decelerating )it wont put the full voltage out as it knows you are not hard on the brakes, this is why it is smooth when you apply the brakes, B2 and B3 seem to put out the same but more than B1 for this test.

Manual Override Applied --> 13.39 Volts


Measurement -- Output Current
-------------------------------
This should be the really good one, this will be the actual current going to the magnets on the van, or somewhere else if not there. So if we have 4 wheels on the van, 4 magnets in parallel, they are around 4ohms each I read somewhere, so we should have about a 4/4 ie 1 ohm load, at 12volts, we are looking for around 12 amps. ( I=E/R Current=voltage/resistance).

Here is what I got.

No Brakes --> 0 is good
Foot Brake --> 1.1amps (B1), 2.5amps (B2 and B3)
Manual Override Applied --> 11 amps

So the 11.0 amps is operating your magnets or going somewhere else.
On a power setting of 6.0 around 5.9amps in lieu of the 11.0 amps.




Also check you have brake type set to electric and not hydraulic over electric. I don't think it alters the results here but probably effects the way it applies the power to the brakes.

Interested to see what you find when you measure, no tools required, just push the buttons on the P3 in the right order.



regards
Gerry

[pawky]

I will be taking delivery of a D4 soon and I have been reading the posts on electric brake controllers and LED shunt modules with interest.

Thanks for all the info on brake controllers. It will make life much easier when the time comes (as my camping trailer has elec brakes)

Regarding the LED shunt module... isn't the module simply providing resistance on the necessary circuits? Therefore, wouldn't a product like the following from Narva do the trick of curing any D3/D4 induced LED pulsing, as well as letting D4's know a trailer is attached?
LED Load Resistor - Products - Narva (http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/led-load-resistor)

I also found a different brand at my local ISP trailer parts shop.

Would these load resistors cure the problems? They are relatively cheap ($40 pair at ISP) and would be easy to connect up

Any advice gratefully received
Pawky

[OzAd4x4]

I used the LED load resistors on mine and it sorted everything out - mine were LED brand and cost $30 for the pair.

Just a point to note though - the resistors can get very very hot so need to be mounted on a metal surface out of harms way!

Phil

[what-the??]

Please do, as that is why i am here.
Cheers.
hi
sniegy.... l have been quoted 3000 to 4000$ for a elect control breaking system for the d4 3ltr SE :mad::mad::mad: from LR AND ITS DOINNG MY HEAD IN...

[sniegy]

Hi Mate,
Let me get this straight...
:eek:
So your telling me that someone is quoting you to fit a standard electric trailer brake unit to your vehicle for between $3000 & $4000.
:eek:
You have an appropriate name for the forum to say the least...

"WHAT THE"

If your are in Melbourne let me know, i may be able to help out.

[Len Hall]

G'day Sneigy,
I have just dropped off my new D4 to Austral Motors this morning to fit a Teckonsha P3. They just rang to tell me that they will need the car until midday tomorrow.
They said that it is not a simple job on a D4 as you have to connect to the ABS System (not just the brake lights) and you need a land rover wiring loom to do so. If its not done that way there will be all sorts of error messages and problems with the suspension.

Your description of the installation seems straightforward, and I can't believe that it would be that difficult to install a simple brake controller on a vehicle that is essentially designed for towing!!

Have you any thoughts/comments on this issue?

Thanks, Len

[roamer]

Hi Len ,
I've got a D4 3lt, and the brake controller is done as per Sniegy's post and works just fine..:D . Sounds like abit of a dealer stealer story.. :mad:
Cheers Ken

[driftn69]

Hello Len,

I also have a D4 but the poverty pac 2.7ltr and used the information from

Sniegy's thread to install a Redarc ebrh controller myself. Straight forward install

and everything works as it should.

Cheers Colin

[discomaniac]

I'll confirm as well. Installed the P3 Brake controller as per Sniegy's instructions and everything works perfectly.

discomaniac

[Duck's Guts]

Hello Len,
I also have a D4 but the poverty pac 2.7ltr and used the information from
Sniegy's thread to install a Redarc ebrh controller myself. Straight forward install
and everything works as it should.
Cheers Colin


Same same

[sniegy]

G'day Sneigy,
I have just dropped off my new D4 to Austral Motors this morning to fit a Teckonsha P3. They just rang to tell me that they will need the car until midday tomorrow.
They said that it is not a simple job on a D4 as you have to connect to the ABS System (not just the brake lights) and you need a land rover wiring loom to do so. If its not done that way there will be all sorts of error messages and problems with the suspension.

Your description of the installation seems straightforward, and I can't believe that it would be that difficult to install a simple brake controller on a vehicle that is essentially designed for towing!!

Have you any thoughts/comments on this issue?

Thanks, Len

Hey Len,
I am with the understanding that the "loom" so to speak is only a North America spec thing, as we dont have the loom for it to connect too.

Cheers

[101RRS]

I am fitting a LLAMS to my RRS next week so lower dash etc will be pulled out so I might as well fit a brake controller.

I am leaning towards the Redarc as dash space is limited and the simple remote indicator/switch will fit in better.

Any other suggestions?? Any one here with a RRS - where did you put your controller or did you just hang it off the obvious position under the steering column?

Is there room on the headlight switch panel to fit the Redarc remote contoller?

Thanks

Garry

[sniegy]

Garry, The other position we have been fitting these are in the steering wheel shroud surround. With yours it will fit on the L/H/S of the shroud. Now this also depends on where you are fitting the LLAMS unit, you may have enough room to fit both on the bottom section. just requires 3 screws to be removed & contort to get it off & voila..
Dont forget to take some snaps.

[101RRS]

Thanks - that spot is where I am putting the LLAMs but I will have a look to see if both could fit there.

A great spot for both would be at the rear of the little overhead console that houses the interior light and map lights - twin rotary knobs with LEDs would not look all that out of place - the problem would be to extend harnesses and then pulling the lining out etc - yuk - no thanks.

So it looks like the steering column or nearby.

Garry

[disco4now]

Here is how I mounted the Teckonsha P3 in the D4. Followed sniegy's instructions like many others for the wiring. As it was first new car ever at the time (12 months ago now) was not keen to drill holes and would not have gone down well with SWMBO anyway. So with hacksaw, vice hammer and pop rivet gun, managed to modify the supplied bracket and fit so it could be removed without trace. After a while you realise your are never going to do that anyway but its a thought when you first have it. Also attached is the wiring diagram I made up to show someone else how to wire one, and also how I mounted a 12 pin plug where the landrover white one goes, as van was set up for 12 pin so it has camera etc in one plug.
The P3 has been good towing 3500Kg van and see further down the post for how to use its in built diagnostics. I just got a spare to carry with me, $135 on ebay. The original came with resetting circuit breaker thrown in but was not in the $135 deal.

Regards
Gerry


33286

33287

33288

33289

33290

[Len Hall]

After I saw What-The's quote for $3,000.00 to $4,000.00 for dealer fit brake controller I had a little panic.
Austral fitted brake controller, Traxide Dual Battery Kit and supplied Tow Tongue for Mitchell Hitch for half that amount. Blood Pressure is now back to normal.

P3 Controller definately needs Boost, I push the Boost Button but nothing happens, am I missing something?

Thanks, Len Hall

[Bigfoot]

$800 for redarc unit including installation by Melbourne City Landrover Port Melbourne. Adjustment knob on right hand side of steering column behind steering wheel. Knob was a little loose so
wound single strand of a rubber band around shaft and now all good.
No stuffing around, took less than 2 hours to do.

[101RRS]

Question on the purchase of the Redarc unit.

I can get the basic unit which seems to comprise just the module and controller and no other hardware for $164. The other kit has the same module and controller but also includes other hardware including cable to run to the rear of the car for $234.

So on the D3/RRS do I need the full kit or just the basic version?

Thanks

Garry

[sniegy]

Garry,
I havent seen the cable that it comes with so i cant comment. But the loom that will need to be made for the vehicle will be specific for the vehicle.
The loom that is recommended from LR will require 4 wires from the controller to the rear loadspace. But some people have done there own thing.
If you need a hand let me know.
Personally i would just buy the EBRH version (Electric Brake Remote Head)
EB Series Trailer Brake Controller | Redarc Electronics (http://redarc.com.au/products-and-services/trailer-brake-products/eb-series-trailer-brake-controller)

& make your own loom.

Cheers

[101RRS]

Personally i would just buy the EBRH version (Electric Brake Remote Head)
EB Series Trailer Brake Controller | Redarc Electronics (http://redarc.com.au/products-and-services/trailer-brake-products/eb-series-trailer-brake-controller)

& make your own loom.

Cheers

Thanks - that is the $164 version.

Cheers

Garry

[Sadie]

Garry, what did you end up doing about a brake controller. I'm thinking of putting a Redarc remote hear unit into the D3 I recently bought. I am incapable of doing the install myself, so can you suggest someone in Canberra who I could trust to do a good job of it? I also want to have an Anderson plug fitted at the same time...

Steve

[101RRS]

I got the Redarc but have not installed it as yet. I will do that myself as it is a very simple process using the instructions supplied and the instructions supplied here. The biggest problem is where to mount the remote contoller.

My brother has one fitted to his Hilux and it works Ok - he also is an electronics engineer and indicated that the fuse on the main wire from the battery should have one that automatically resets itself - the logic being that if the fuse blows at a crucial moment the brakes on the trailer cannot be used but with the fuse that resets itself at least you should have power again very shortly - of course if the short that caused the fuse to blow in the first case is a major deal then it will not help. Checked out these special fuses today - about

As who to use in Canberra - no idea but I would print out the instructions put up on AULRO and give it to your installer.

Garry

Garry

[Sadie]

Thanks Garry.

Are the instructions you mention the ones at the start of this thread? They seem to be D4 specific and Sniegy says the wiring is different in the D4. Should I be looking somewhere else? I thought I'd read every thread about brake controllers! :confused:

Steve

[AndrewM]

Hey Sneigy
A bit off topic, but I fitted a Pulse Shunt to my 2007 D3 and it works fine with LEDs on the boat trailer, as long as I remember to push the activate button in the back when I connnect the trailer. Lights don't flash and the trailier light on the dash works fine.
The trailer has override disc brakes but am thinking of fitting electric over hydraulic. Will the Red Arc unit work on hydraulic brakes? I asked them some time back and they replied that it "is not certified for hydraulic".

[Gaviatrix]

Question on the purchase of the Redarc unit.

I can get the basic unit which seems to comprise just the module and controller and no other hardware for $164. The other kit has the same module and controller but also includes other hardware including cable to run to the rear of the car for $234.

Garry

Garrycol, where did you see the EBRH unit for $164? It's listed at $280.39 on Redarc's own web site!

Originally Posted by sniegy https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/768.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brakes-post1429477.html#post1429477)
Personally i would just buy the EBRH version (Electric Brake Remote Head)
EB Series Trailer Brake Controller | Redarc Electronics (http://redarc.com.au/products-and-services/trailer-brake-products/eb-series-trailer-brake-controller)

& make your own loom.


Sniegy,

I'm going to fit a Traxide DB kit on my MY08 D3 next weekend, and thought I'd at least run the wiring for the EBRH unit at the same time as I'll have all the same panels off. I don't have much of an idea about auto electrics: could you advise me on the wiring (length, type) I'd need to purchase to "make my own loom" to do this, please?

Thanks very much to you both.

Cheers, Gaviatrix

[Sadie]

Gaviatrix, check out Ebay. $160 for a basic kit or $200 with extra wiring...:)

[sniegy]

Hey Sneigy
A bit off topic, but I fitted a Pulse Shunt to my 2007 D3 and it works fine with LEDs on the boat trailer, as long as I remember to push the activate button in the back when I connnect the trailer. Lights don't flash and the trailier light on the dash works fine.
The trailer has override disc brakes but am thinking of fitting electric over hydraulic. Will the Red Arc unit work on hydraulic brakes? I asked them some time back and they replied that it "is not certified for hydraulic".

Hi Andrew,
The Electric brakes will not run Hyrdaulic brakes & will need to be changed to Electric for correct operation.


Garrycol, where did you see the EBRH unit for $164? It's listed at $280.39 on Redarc's own web site!

Originally Posted by sniegy https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/768.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brakes-post1429477.html#post1429477)
Personally i would just buy the EBRH version (Electric Brake Remote Head)
EB Series Trailer Brake Controller | Redarc Electronics (http://redarc.com.au/products-and-services/trailer-brake-products/eb-series-trailer-brake-controller)

& make your own loom.


Sniegy,

I'm going to fit a Traxide DB kit on my MY08 D3 next weekend, and thought I'd at least run the wiring for the EBRH unit at the same time as I'll have all the same panels off. I don't have much of an idea about auto electrics: could you advise me on the wiring (length, type) I'd need to purchase to "make my own loom" to do this, please?

Thanks very much to you both.

Cheers, Gaviatrix

Hi Gaviatrix,
The loom will need to consist of 4 wires, red/blue/black/white approx 5.5 Mtrs long. They will run from the position you mount the Electric trailer brake unit to the L/H/R 1/4 panel. The wiring should be minimum 4mm squared for best results. Refer to the D3 Electric trailer brake write up in this forum.
Any questions please ask.
Cheers

[Graeme]

The trailer has override disc brakes but am thinking of fitting electric over hydraulic.
The P3 supports this option.

[AndrewM]

Thanks Graeme

[Sadie]

Can I ask the question again:

Are there instructions on here (or anywhere) for installing the Redarc EBRH unit into a D3?

Thanks.

[Gaviatrix]

Hi Andrew,
Hi Gaviatrix,
The loom will need to consist of 4 wires, red/blue/black/white approx 5.5 Mtrs long. They will run from the position you mount the Electric trailer brake unit to the L/H/R 1/4 panel. The wiring should be minimum 4mm squared for best results. Refer to the D3 Electric trailer brake write up in this forum.
Any questions please ask.
Cheers

Sneigy, thanks very much indeed. I'll buy the cable and run it when I do the dual battery instal next Saturday. I bought a Redarc kit on eBay last week so I'll be right now.

Really appreciate your help, thanks again.

[Gaviatrix]

Can I ask the question again:

Are there instructions on here (or anywhere) for installing the Redarc EBRH unit into a D3?

Thanks.

Sadie, here's the link:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/51521-electric-trailer-brake-wired-photo-4.html

Cheers, Gaviatrix

[sniegy]

Can I ask the question again:

Are there instructions on here (or anywhere) for installing the Redarc EBRH unit into a D3?

Thanks.

Here's the link, There IS a search function too.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/51521-electric-trailer-brake-wired-photo.html

You will have to combine both the first half of the D4 for the Redarc unit & the wiring from the D3 version.

The trims etc are the same.

[Sadie]

Hey Sniegy.

No need for the sarcasm. I did do a search, and as I said in an earlier post, read every relevant thread to do with this topic. My question was whether there were D3 specific instructions (so I can hand them to the installer of my Redarc unit) The link you have supplied does not specify what model you're talking about.

You have now answered my question, and by the sounds of it the answer really is 'no'.

Thanks.

[sniegy]

Sadie,
I apologise if it seemed as i came across "sarcastic", this wasnt my intention.
I do try a lot to help as much as i can where ever possible & try to save the people who use this forum some money to spend on camping around this wonderful country of ours.

It does get frustrating at times to see the same question pop up on a day to day basis.

So..

No, not one specifically for what you have asked, But as i have noted the 2 threads combined will do what you ask.

If you do want some tips, again please ask (PM me) & will happily help out.

[Sadie]

Cheers Sniegy.

No offence taken. Thanks again for your help. :)

Steve

[Ozzy119]

Hi Sniegy,

I've tried to PM you but my sent items box shows no messages sent, so hoping to contact you via this thread.

I really appreciate the time you have spent reviewing the brake controller wire up. I'll follow your instructions as best I can, but I'm struggling to understand the EBC blue and red splice instructions. In my last one I picked up both wires down at the trailer connector behind the rear bar. In yours you have attached both wires inside the car behind the rear light housing. This is the bit I'm not totally grasping. Please would you describe it again.

many thanks,

Graham

[sniegy]

Hi Graham,
Sorry for the delayed reply, but have been a tad busy.

The red & blue wires from the electric trailer brake unit connect to the wires below the L/H/R tail light.
The loom exits the vehicle from the large round gommet behind the light.
The loom runs to a group of plugs attached to the L/H/S bumper on the inside.
You may need to peel some of the tape away from the loom exiting the vehicle find a black wire that goes into a soldered hotwax connection & then becomes 2 wires, A black & A brown wire.

You need to cut the brown wire away from the hotwax connection & connect the blue wire to the brown wire. This is the supply for the variable voltage to your trailer brakes.

You now need to find the red wire in the same loom & connect the red wire from the electric trailer brake unit to the same wire, either by connectors or solder depending on what you prefer.
You just need to make a "T" type connection.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

[dk09]

Hi all,

First time poster, take it easy if I have missed the obvious.

I have read and searched the threads and "Sneigy" has provided detailed instructions on what I would like to do - however... I do not confuse my aspirations with my abilities and will need to find a professional who can do a REDARC EBRH in the Adelaide area.

I have a D4 and dont want holes or obtrusive break controller units in the cockpit, (I might tow 3-4 times a year, if I am lucky)

I spoke to one retailer, who quoted $400 but they acknowledged they hadn't done a D4 - not many have apparently. This concerns me. (Yes, I could print off the instructions further in this thread - as others have suggested)

Any suggestions on local "experienced" installers in Adelaide are appreciated, (I wouldn't rule out a drive to Melbourne to see you Sneigy if I cant find a local)

Thanks

[sniegy]

PM me if you really do want to do this.
Happy to help.
Cheers;)

[MC D4]

Just completed my redarc ebrh install over the weekend using sniegy's post and pics and all is well. Most annoying part was finding the silly little metal clips!!

Thanks again and now looking forward to hooking up the new jayco basestation on Saturday! Shame the guy next to me who also wanted to buy the Van at the caravan and camping show had to pass because his Pajero was not suitable as a tug!! Gotta luv the D4....

[Ozzy119]

Thanks Sniegy,

Just finished the wire up following your excellent advise. And god, those clips are buggers to get back out of the door foot well!!!

All done though and linked up nicely. Road test to follow.

thanks again.

[But 'n' Ben]

Hi guys, first post here, and I hope it is in the correct place? I'm having difficulty in negotiating round the forum, but that's 'cause I'm new to it.
Pick up my D4 3L SE in about a week, and I am on this thread because the first job is wire up of brake controller. I tow a 3Tonne off roader, and I've got to get that legal first.
The 9 pages of this thread have been extremely educational, thanks to Sniegy, and a couple of others. I thank you all. I am already, mentally doing the job, and no car yet.
Regarding mounting of the controller, here is my 'tuppence' worth.
I have been towing with a 100 series L/Cruiser, and I mounted my Tekonsha in the ashtray space. I removed the ashtray, and using 8mm perspex, cut an oblong 94 x124mm, and using the Tekonsha supplied bracket, I mounted the controller at the front edge of the perspex. I had to double up the thickness of perspex (16 mm) at this point, because the bracket had longish legs on it. Now with the Tekonsha attached, it was a sound fit, and runs in the rails that the ashtray ran in. This position also provides an uninterrupted view of the unit's readout, and is easily reached if override operation is required. The unit can be removed, and stored, after a trip, as I fitted a Narva type plug and socket to the end of the cables, which came with the unit.
Don't know if this philosophy will work in the D4, will find out in a week or so.
Regards, Don.

[Disco4SE]

I have been towing with a 100 series L/Cruiser.
Hi Don, I made the same move from the LC 100.
You are going to enjoy the extra power, torque and smoothness of the D4.
Happy caravaning.
Cheers, Craig

[But 'n' Ben]

Hi all, a question for Sniegy, but if anyone else has an answer, please feel free to help.
What is the purpose of the white, UK standard, trailer socket on the D4?
I am almost finished wiring up my EBC unit, and am thinking of laying in a cable to feed my caravan rear camera to the 7" TFT screen that I will mount on the 'Dash'.
I was wondering if I might be able to decommission the UK socket, and then use the socket for the four wires I need to feed the rear caravan camera system.
Does anyone know where I can source a plug to mate with the UK one?
Thanks guys, nearly done, so I can hitch up the Van, and check out the difference in towing ability between my old 100 series, and my new 'Beaut'.
Regards, Don.

[sniegy]

Hi all, a question for Sniegy, but if anyone else has an answer, please feel free to help.
What is the purpose of the white, UK standard, trailer socket on the D4?
The vehicle is a world wide build spec & is easir to just wire everything, hence why you get the 2 plugs.
I am almost finished wiring up my EBC unit, and am thinking of laying in a cable to feed my caravan rear camera to the 7" TFT screen that I will mount on the 'Dash'.
I was wondering if I might be able to decommission the UK socket, and then use the socket for the four wires I need to feed the rear caravan camera system.
The loom for the white plug runs under the vehicle crossember in the spare wheel well & goes into a plug on the L/H/R bumper corner, On many occassions i have removed this plug for various customers to fit a 12pin plug.
Does anyone know where I can source a plug to mate with the UK one?
Dealers have stock of them.
Thanks guys, nearly done, so I can hitch up the Van, and check out the difference in towing ability between my old 100 series, and my new 'Beaut'.
Regards, Don.

Don ,
See the responses above & hope this helps.

[But 'n' Ben]

Hi Pete, thanks for that info, 'You're the man'.
When initially looking at my D4, I asked the salesman about the socket, apart from being of no use to us here, he seemed to intimate that the plug would have to be sourced from the UK. After your info: I'll try my local LR parts department.
Cheers, Don.

[dougc]

Hi all,

First time poster, take it easy if I have missed the obvious.

I have read and searched the threads and "Sneigy" has provided detailed instructions on what I would like to do - however... I do not confuse my aspirations with my abilities and will need to find a professional who can do a REDARC EBRH in the Adelaide area.

I have a D4 and dont want holes or obtrusive break controller units in the cockpit, (I might tow 3-4 times a year, if I am lucky)

I spoke to one retailer, who quoted $400 but they acknowledged they hadn't done a D4 - not many have apparently. This concerns me. (Yes, I could print off the instructions further in this thread - as others have suggested)

Any suggestions on local "experienced" installers in Adelaide are appreciated, (I wouldn't rule out a drive to Melbourne to see you Sneigy if I cant find a local)

Thanks
Dear dk09,
Have you found a reputable installer in Adelaide? I have just had Redarc installed as per Sniegy's photos and the D4 is now not drivable. The brakes come on after a few hundred metres of driving. May be linked to touching brake pedal. Autoelec says now that cant have Redarc in this model. I am getting him to disconnect and am hunting for a new installer. Disappointing in a vehicle purchased as a tow vehicle. The D4 was new in Feb2011.

[sniegy]

Hey Doug,
How did you go with the installer after our phone conversation?
Interested to see what the outcome was.
If no joy, as we discussed if you want to come for a drive then let me know.
Cheers

[dougc]

Hey Doug,
How did you go with the installer after our phone conversation?
Interested to see what the outcome was.
If no joy, as we discussed if you want to come for a drive then let me know.
Cheers
Thanks for contacting me. The auto elec made some modifications and after a couple of attempts the car was drivable but still didn't feel right. The Landrover people were great and fitted me in straight away to check the vehicle. They have fixed all the problems that the instal had caused and have organised a reputable person to come and remove original install which they said was all wrong and redo it. So much for using a RAA approved business. The Landrover people said that this problem has occured before. I wish I had been forewarned when I picked up the car and directed to experienced auto electrician. Live and learn

[101RRS]

I have just had Redarc installed as per Sniegy's photos

Can I ask where you installed the controlling knob and led??

Thanks

Garry

[gregndeb]

We have just had a controller (can't remember the make) fitted by Allin Towbars at 175 Richmond Rd Marleston.
While they grumbled a bit about doing the D4, it all went very smoothly and all works well.
Worth a try if you have no success anywhere else

[sniegy]

Can I ask where you installed the controlling knob and led??

Thanks

Garry
Garry,
There are 2 places we install them depending on client.
Either on the panel as per my install photos or in the steering wheel binnacle.
Cheers

[101RRS]

Thanks - just interested in other alternatives. I am not a smoker and there will be no smoking in my car so I am thinking of putting it in the hole that the ash tray sits in - not sure about the D3 but the RRS has an ash tray next to the 12v cigar socket about 35mm x 15mm and 40mm deep that is removable.

The controller or even the LLAMS controller (but not both) would fit in there and be out of sight with the ashtray cover closed.

I think I would put the LLams on the side of the steering column and the Redarc in the ash tray but always open to better options.

Cheers

Garry

[dougc]

Can I ask where you installed the controlling knob and led??

Thanks

Garry
Dear Garry,
The knob for the controller is to the left of steering column as per Sneigys photos. That part of the install is good and it is not obtrusive. Pity they didnt know how to wire it up. Be ware! Doug

[sniegy]

Hi all,
I have had a misunderstanding with LRTech when the D4 was released & the info I have supplied is incorrect, I thought I was told a diode was not required, But have now been instructed to fit a diode to all ETB units fitted to any LR product. :(
So, a 3 amp diode from any electronic shop costing approx 30c will suffice.
Just tap into the red wire before it exits the l/h/r to the outside, just make sure the kathode end (the side with the stripe on it) faces the Electric Trailer Brake unit.
That will rectify the problem.
I strongly apologize for any problems that may have arisen from this.
If I have fitted your ETB unit, please ring me at work to get this fixed. Takes approximately 5mins to fit & you can be on your way at no charge whatsoever!

I will be at work Mon & Tues this week & then on annual leave until mid
November. If I am not there Simon will rectify the problem.

Cheers

[Graeme]

Obviously fitted as a precaution against any reverse current from disconnecting the other end of a coil (eg a relay).

[But 'n' Ben]

Hi Sniegy, just come in on this thread,as I have been on Holidays.
Could you please be more specific about the diode fit, as I used your circuit details when I fitted my Brake Unit, and wired into the rear left hand wiring loom.
What sort of problems do you think could arise, as a result of not fitting a diode?
Thanks,
Don.

[sniegy]

Hi Don,
The fitment of the diode is damn easy, find the red wire that you ran from the Electric trailer brake unit (i would say best location to be in the L/H/R tow hitch storage section) cut this wire in half & fit the diode in between.
The diode has a stripe on one end, this is known as the Kathode & does not let current flow beyond the stripe, this end needs to face towards the electric trailer brake controller end, therefore if it fails it will not let current flow towards the CJB.;)

The issue may arise if you have a problem with your electric trailer brake unit & it then feeds the problem back into what is called the CJB (Central Junction Box) behind your glovebox, although this is the main fuse block it is also a computer so to speak that controls a lot of talk between nearly all ECU's via various canbus networks. (High speed, Medium Speed)

If this goes down, then you are stuck.

I have altered mine, & would advise that in due course get yours done also.

Cheers:)

[But 'n' Ben]

Thanks for that Pete, I will get on to it straight away, as I am getting car, and caravan, ready for a trip up North next week.
I imagine the best way to carry out the job, is to solder in the diode, using a pair of pliers as a heat sink, and then to finish off with a length of heat shrink?

[Graeme]

Probably a good idea to include a thin strip of plastic either inside or outside the heatshrink as a brace so that no flexing of the diode's wires can occur. Inside avoids the need to tie the plastic in place.

[rlazar]

Hey guys, ive just purchased a RRS and had my dealer install a P3 brake controller for my boat trailer, which uses a Hydrastar electric over hydraulic braking system. The dealer has wired the P3 to my round black 7 pin plug at the back.
However, there is no constant power on that plug. Now he wants to use the constant / ignition power from the white plug and then make up a new harness to combine the output from the two plugs in the RRS to 1 single heavy duty 7 pin to connect my trailer.
My key concern is that the constant power wire that runs to the white plug is not heavy duty enough to handle the 30amp requirement from the hydrastar. Does anyone have a view on this? Also, would this mean i need to connect constant power from the battery to the black plug?
Any help would be appreciated, doing my head in!!

[Graeme]

Whilst the constant power in the white plug is fitted with a 30A fuse, the wire certainly didn't look to me to be nearly heavy enough. Note that the white plug has (IIRC) 2 more earth wires - a 30A earth return would be needed too. Is the plug/socket rated for 30A?

[rlazar]

Graeme - im not sure if its rated to 30Amps, its so hard to find information on the white plug, its content and its ratings. I spoke to an autoelectrician up here in Sydney that does a lot of LR, and his view was the white plug wires wont handle the sorts of power from the Hydrastar on the trailer.

[Graeme]

Thinking about it, LR must think the plug is rated for 30A because of the 30A fuse on the wire going into it.

Narva rate their large 7-pin round as 30A @ 12V per pin, so should be OK.

[sniegy]

Hi rlazar, I have answered your PM.

[rlazar]

Ok thanks Graeme and sneigy. I spoke to another Autoelec the other day. He's recommending we run a positive direct from the battery via a circuit breaker and also the earth to an anderson plug and have 2 separate plugs for the boat trailer. One for the power ala Anderson plug, and a standard 7-pin flat for the trailer lights and controller (P3). Does this sound about right?

[Graeme]

I have that setup, albeit to supply aux power to a van rather than the brake pump.

[Weird Al]

I decided to put my Electric Brake Controller and Aux Tank gauge on the Small panel on the LHS of the instrument panel.

Time consuming but looks neat and easy to see, also only need to replace a small plastic panel to return the dash to original condition.

[Graeme]

Very neat! What did it take to get access to the panel?

[Weird Al]

Very neat! What did it take to get access to the panel?

Ha, Graeme. Straight to the hard questions, eh. ;)

Ok it was not easy, 1st you need to remove the centre console, then the RHS of the centre dash facia.

Then you need to gently push the LHS of the instrument surround out of the way and I put a tissue under it to stop it scratching the surrounding plastic.

Then it just comes up and out, if you look at the pics you can see 2 "fingers" at the lower edge and another of those stupid tabs with 'fly off into the distance silver clips' Landrover designers seem to love, as used on the rest of the centre console.

Then I removed the inner area behind the bracket on the inner dash assy with my trusty dremmel. After mounting the switches and gauges in the panel it stayed in place even with the 'fly away clip' gone but I used some industrial velcro to keep it in place and prevent any rattles in the years to come.

Simple as that, but I think it looks neater than next to the air vent and headlamp switch which is where ARB wanted to put it.

But the guys in Fyshwick were very helpful and gave me the gauge and the wiring an let me install that bit myself.

I got the ignition switched power from the centre cool box connector under the cup holder.

And I ran a 7 core trailer wire cable down to the back of the cargo area near the tail lamps...(as per Snigeys instuctions a few pages ago). So that has the electic brakes and the Aux tank 'to & from' wires. As well as some spares for another day.

[wcody01]

Hi,
Great and interesting read.
I have had a disco 4 for about 6 weeks now.
we tow a 24 foot, 3 tonne van.
Twice the electric brakes have stopped working.
Brake light on the van stop working as well.
The Cars brake light still work though.
This problem can be fixed by turning the car off and starting again.
We thought it might be a short circuit in the brake circuit of the caravan
Put a fuse in the brake light circuit so as to stop the short going to the car but this was not the problem.
Any ideas?

Cheers

[Graeme]

Do all the D4's brake lights keep working when the van's brake lights stop working?

Have you checked that the splice where the brake controller brake signal wire is attached is making a good connection?

Does the van use LED lights or normal globes and if normal globes, how many globes per side? If LED lights, is any device fitted to the light circuit to cause the D4 to recognise that the van is attached?

[wcody01]

Yes all D4's lights continue to work as per normal. the blinkers still work on the van as well

havent checked the splice as it was done by LR as part of my purchase

Van uses all LED's and no there is not a resisting device fitted. After reading this thread last night i rang LR's auto elec and he said he is not keen to put one on. however we may make a patch lead for use when towing LED equiped trailers with resistors in it??? what size resistors should we use? and could this be causing my intemiteant brake loss?

[Graeme]

Are the reversing sensors disabled with the van connected? I don't know if the D4 trailer/van brake lights use a dedicated supply from the CJB but if so, the van not being recognised might be a reason for the van brake light failure. The D4 trailer wiring diagram doesn't show the vehicle brake lights being connected to the trailer brake light supply but its quite possible the vehicle brake lights have been omitted because the diagram is focusing on the trailer wiring.

My testing has revealed that a load equating to at least 1 21w globe on each blinker and 2 21w stop light globes are required to provide enough load to ensure that the instrument trailer blinker indicator operates reliably. However the reversing sensors are disabled even though the load is insufficient to cause the instrument indicator to operate, possibly due to just slightly less load caused by more resistance in the wiring than expected. The reversing sensors on my D4 once disabled will not be re-enabled until the ignition is cycled even though the trailer/van has been disconnected, which is similar to your van brake problem. I wouldn't be surprised if a load resistor device solves your vehicle's problems, assuming the brake controller signal splice doesn't have a poor connection to both your brake controller and to the trailer brake supply wire.

A load resistor of 8 ohms on each blinker supply and 2 on the brake supply should provide enough load in conjunction with the LED lights to simulate incandescent globes. The resistors must be able to dissipate energy equivalent to that of a 21W globe so at least 21W but 50W will stay cooler.

[wcody01]

Reversing sensors are disabled and as your comment says it requires a ignition cycle to re-enable them. we have only had the Disco for 6 weeks and have been to tassmania and back with the caravan for 5 of those!!
I have never towed another trailer with it so was unaware of the little green trailer light.
interstingly i hooked up the old box trailer this morning and saw the little green light.
so of to the auto elec next week some time (very busy) I will let you know how this goes

on another side issue, does this mean as i have read previously i will need the LR guys to reset my transmission learning??

[Graeme]

The gbox ecu adapts constantly. It also has different programming for when it thinks its towing something heavy so your van might not have influenced its normal adaptations that much.

[wcody01]

LR have now ordered a Ford branded box that is from all acounts a patch lead ie goes between the car plug and the trailer plug.
i've searched these style of box and found some up to $300 however the one they are proposing is $60 genuine??
any ideas on what the difference is?

[Graeme]

the one they are proposing is $60 genuine
That's more like what should be available from a vehicle manufacturer to allow connection of what's become very common-place LED lights, so hopefully it makes everything work properly.

[outasight]

Please keep us all informed what you actually get wcody01

Regards,

Les.

[wcody01]

Just to let you all know the box I am waiting for is on back order.will let know when it arrives.

[CSBrisie]

Thought I'd post that I was very impressed with Austals in Brisbane (LR dealer) who fitted both the Redarc remote BC and Autron dual battery display. Very good service. Photos attached (and in my gallery).

[SBD4]

Thought I'd post that I was very impressed with Austals in Brisbane (LR dealer) who fitted both the Redarc remote BC and Autron dual battery display. Very good service. Photos attached (and in my gallery).

Very neat mate.

Out if interest, what were your reasons for not choosing a proportional brake controller?

[CSBrisie]

good question - neatness of fit (one less item cluttering the cabin) was main reason - and, importantly, we dont do alot of towing so its not being used that often. I guess if I was towing weekly I'd go down the proportional route. We hire either a caravan or camper trailer a few times a year and most of the family size ie 20foot, caravans for hire require a BC on tow car, so this solves that problem.

[wcody01]

LR have now ordered a Ford branded box that is from all acounts a patch lead ie goes between the car plug and the trailer plug.
i've searched these style of box and found some up to $300 however the one they are proposing is $60 genuine??
any ideas on what the difference is?
Got the ford box
useless. I have no idea what it is meant to do but it did absolutely nothing that i could tell
have ordered a pulse busta

[nikkit70]

Hi All, I didn't read all posts in this thread but thought I would let you know my experience. I have a MY12 D4 HSE, I picked up a new Jayco camper trailer with LED lights from a dealer. When we tested the blinkers, brakes lights etc, all worked fine, but I explained to the bloke showing me that their should be a trailer light blinking on my dash. He immediately knew of the issue and wired in a couple of resistors, they had them on the shelf. Everything worked immediately and all has been fine in my travels with the camper trailer. So for me the resistors have worked and cost $30 for them.

[aferrier]

Thought I'd post that I was very impressed with Austals in Brisbane (LR dealer) who fitted both the Redarc remote BC and Autron dual battery display. Very good service. Photos attached (and in my gallery).

I'd like to mount my Redarc controls in this same spot. Can anyone give me some advice on how to get easy access to this trip panel that these switches are located on?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/43558d1329114426-d4-electric-trailer-brakes-redarc.jpg

[sniegy]

I have done heaps of these installations now & they seem to be easier the more you do & are now my preferred fit.
The light switch can be removed by dropping the lower section under the steering wheel as described earlier in this post.
The light switch itself is held in by 3 spring clips as you can see in the photo, then stick your arm/hand up to the switch & push in the top single tab, this will then let the switch pack pop out slightly & be able to be removed.

You will need to either cut carefully or die grind out the section on the r/h/s of the dash area, the bit that goes straight down as it needs to match the same as per the other side to give room for the LED & switch.

Cheers all.

[aferrier]

Mr Sniegy, You are a true legend! That's exactly the help I was after.

Thanks

[Fatso]

I have done heaps of these installations now & they seem to be easier the more you do & are now my preferred fit.
The light switch can be removed by dropping the lower section under the steering wheel as described earlier in this post.
The light switch itself is held in by 3 spring clips as you can see in the photo, then stick your arm/hand up to the switch & push in the top single tab, this will then let the switch pack pop out slightly & be able to be removed.

You will need to either cut carefully or die grind out the section on the r/h/s of the dash area, the bit that goes straight down as it needs to match the same as per the other side to give room for the LED & switch.

Cheers all.

Followed this thread to install my Brake contoller in RRS , certainly helped heaps and stopped a few tantrums " good work " !!! Al

[swordfish805]

Hi, wonder if some of the knowledgeable folks here might be able to help with this one. I have a MY12 Disco 4 3.0 HSE with a Prodigy P2 controller. Our LR dealer had wired the car for towing a van with LED lights. A couple of weeks ago I picked up our new van and towed home from the dealer. All worked fine, trailer indicator showed as the indicators flashed, all van lights and brakes worked OK.

ON Friday, hitched the van up for our Easter trip and checked van lights etc only to find trailer indicator did not display when indicators used. Tried disconnecting and reconnecting but no joy. However all lights on the van worked ok.

When we were underway I realised the trailer brakes weren't working properly - they would work fine sliding the manual lever on the Prodigy unit, but were not working when the brake pedal was pushed. I've checked everything that an untrained person like me can do. Nothing seems to have come loose since the first time we used it. Have checked all plugs are properly connected, have reconnected the van to the car several times and switched things on and off several times.

Can anybody suggest what the issue might be?

Thanks in advance.

[swordfish805]

Bump.

Anybody have any ideas?

[CSBrisie]

I had (near) identical experience - no explanation yet; redarc fitted. In my case attached non LED light Kimberley, all lights worked fine but no trailer (dash light) indicators came up. Two days later, I put indicators on and hey presto the trailer indicators came on and stayed on rest of the trip...weird.

[sniegy]

Possibly just an electrical glitch, Dirty connection or maybe even just not a good connection t the time.
Have you towed gain? & has it been all ok?

Cheers

[CSBrisie]

No not yet but I hope you are right, cheers

[disco4now]

Not sure what the professionals use, but when I originally put my controller in and used those blue crimp things that attach a second wire to the existing wire 2 of the three failed intermittently as they did not bite into the wire properly. I then got rid of them and soldered the joins and no more issues. So check where the join for the pick up of the brake light happens.

Regards
Gerry

[swordfish805]

Thanks for the ideas, have not been able to find the fault myself, so car goes back to dealer this week. Will post an update as things progress.

[ghoti]

Will be buying a Disco 4 in the next month after missing our Disco 3 for the last 4 years. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller which I want to transfer from the Pajero to the Disco.

Any (polite) suggestions where I should locate it to minimise holes in dash etc while retaining ease of access. I saw one clever installation in the thread...but are there any other recommendations?

Cheers,
Scott

[sniegy]

Not sure what the professionals use, but when I originally put my controller in and used those blue crimp things that attach a second wire to the existing wire 2 of the three failed intermittently as they did not bite into the wire properly. I then got rid of them and soldered the joins and no more issues. So check where the join for the pick up of the brake light happens.

Regards
Gerry

"scotchloks" auto electricians worst nightmare. Made some one rich initially & keeps auto sparkys in business.

[swordfish805]

Just a quick note - the problem with my loss of trailer brakes turned out to be a faulty relay in the Disco - quick to fix, but here's hoping it doesn't fail again.....

[Learner]

Hi swordfish,
Which relay failed?

[swordfish805]

No idea which relay it was. Mrs Swordfish took the disco back to the dealer and brought it home without bothering to enquire where the fault was.....

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I had a new Tekonsha P3* fitted to the D4 Thursday last week.

Towed the trailer, with 4 electric braked wheels, without recognising any problems on Friday.

Saturday morning, no trailer, received many more than the 3 Amigos, (ABS, Stability control, decent control, gearbox etc error messages). Switched off, re-start no errors.

Saturday evening, connected the trailer to return home and noticed the brake lamps on when the engine running. Pulled out of the driveway feeling a drag on the car, brake lamps still on and the P3 reading braking current. Stopped, switched off and everything returned to normal. Drove 10 Km down the road, other motorists flashing lamps, smoke billowing from the trailer wheels and at the same time error messages this time including, park brake and suspension fault. P3 reading brake effort, zero'ed the P3 and pulled off the road and disconnected the P3 harness. All errors disappeared and drove home with over-ride brakes connected on the trailer.

Returned the car to the mechanic, no fault found with the installation but previous experience with the earlier model controllers had brake signal feedback from controller to car.

The controller now has a diode installed on the brake switch wire.

Will report results when I tow the trailer again tomorrow.

Diana

* Tekonsha do not call the P3 controller "Prodigy" anywhere in their literature or specifications while at the same time they use the "Prodigy" name for the "Prodigy 2" and "Prodigy RF". It may be a small difference but I wonder if the P3 is actually an upgrade for the Voyager rather than the Prodigy 2?

[minibloodhound]

Had a similar problem with tekonsha. Picked up the camper trailer in Brisbane and drove all the way back to the hunter with no problems, but over Easter drove to Newnes and on the way a warning message flashed up showing a gearbox failure and shut the vehicle completely down.
First time happened crossing the Hawkesbury River bridge and came to a halt in the middle with trucks bearing down on me.
NO trailer brakes for the entire trip causing me to take it VERY easy. The car is in at Modern Motors Dungog at the moment getting llams installed and hopefully they will find the fault with the brake controller before going to the Cape in a months time.
I'll pass on the previous problems posted to them in the morning and hopefully they can fix it!

[swordfish805]

Just a quick update - towed the van again with the replaced relay in place and the brakes worked properly.

However, there was no trailer indicator on the dashboard when the indicators were used. All lights on the van were working properly.

What I'm wondering is - if the trailer indicator on the dashboard is not working does that mean the trailer stability function is not running? One of the main reasons for buying the disco was the trailer stability feature, not having it available is quite disappointing.

Anyone have any thoughts?

[wcody01]

have had various teathing issues with my dsco 4 as well. but have worked through them. have a look around through the forum. there is heaps of info on the trailer sway assist and so forth
I have purchased a 'pulse buster' from LAB electronics.
google it and have a look at them.
also am happy to have a phone chat if you like
private message for phone number should you wish
cheers
Will

[swordfish805]

Thanks - I had a quick look at the Pulse Busta - I guess before I do anything else I need the dealer to look at the vehicle again. They've fitted some form of relay to deal with the LED lights on the van (for all I know it could be a Pulse Busta).

Any case, thanks for the offer to help - I might take you up on that if my dealer can resolve this quickly.

[33chinacars]

Here

Labtronx Home (http://www.labtronx.com.au/)

Gary

[discotwinturbo]

Just a quick update - towed the van again with the replaced relay in place and the brakes worked properly.

However, there was no trailer indicator on the dashboard when the indicators were used. All lights on the van were working properly.

What I'm wondering is - if the trailer indicator on the dashboard is not working does that mean the trailer stability function is not running? One of the main reasons for buying the disco was the trailer stability feature, not having it available is quite disappointing.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Disco will set off led lights on trailer, but without resistors or pulse buster etc, trailer stability will not work....and will not cause trailer symbol to come up on the dash.
Since I put mine on, the tranny works differently and trailer stability assist has engaged on a couple of occasions.
Brett....

[swordfish805]

Disco will set off led lights on trailer, but without resistors or pulse buster etc, trailer stability will not work....and will not cause trailer symbol to come up on the dash.
Since I put mine on, the tranny works differently and trailer stability assist has engaged on a couple of occasions.
Brett....


Yes - that is what is supposed to happen!

[Pedro_The_Swift]

and trailer stability assist has engaged on a couple of occasions.
Brett....

What did it feel like Brett?
were you doing anything out of the ordinary?

[minibloodhound]

Just bought one of these from eBay, for the d4 though.
Hopefully will fix all my problems

LED trailer module Land Rover Discovery 3 Range Rover Sport Landrover LR3 D3 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-trailer-module-Land-Rover-Discovery-3-Range-Rover-Sport-Landrover-LR3-D3-/190678860176?pt=Caravan_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c65588190#ht_2032wt_922)

[discotwinturbo]

What did it feel like Brett?
were you doing anything out of the ordinary?

It was going around a corner at cruisng speed on both occasions. The trailer weighs 3.5 tonnes. You could feel a tug come from behind....not for long. It was an unusual experience. I think that it did cut in too soon. I tried it without the unit switched on, and felt nothing. Turned it back on and hit the same spot again, and the same sensation occurred. It seems to feel that I needed to slow down.
Brett....

[discotwinturbo]

Just bought one of these from eBay, for the d4 though.
Hopefully will fix all my problems

LED trailer module Land Rover Discovery 3 Range Rover Sport Landrover LR3 D3 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-trailer-module-Land-Rover-Discovery-3-Range-Rover-Sport-Landrover-LR3-D3-/190678860176?pt=Caravan_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c65588190#ht_2032wt_922)

Hopefully.....does have different model though. I tried my touareg one, as nothing would work on the trailer. It did nothing to the disco, whereas the touareg came up with led lights working and the trailer detection system.
Hopefully it works for you.
Brett

[Drafrete]

Hi I'm a new member and just wanted to say thanks to all those who posted in this thread. It has been a really great help.

I have a new D4 SDV6 3.0 that I intend to get a trailer brake controller fitted in a week or so. Going to use the same guy in the east of Melbourne to do this who put the one into my D3 TDV6 which I have just replaced. I'll post how it goes.

[minibloodhound]

Hopefully.....does have different model though. I tried my touareg one, as nothing would work on the trailer. It did nothing to the disco, whereas the touareg came up with led lights working and the trailer detection system.
Hopefully it works for you.
Brett

I received it, tested it, and while all the lights on the trailer worked, as did the trailer brakes, nothing has come up on the dash so I can only assume that trailer assist does not work.

[sniegy]

There is no tell take sign that illuminates on the dash to say that the trailer assist is working.
The only way to tell if the trailer system is working correctly is that the trailer indicator flashes when a trailer is connected & the reverse park sensors do no operate when reverse is selected.

Trailer assist operates with or without a trailer fitted.
It is the oscillation threshold that changes for the system to operate properly as per the brief in the FAQ.

Cheers

[elsey]

I fitted a Tekonsha P3 to my D4 18 months ago following Pete's very helpful and detailed instructions and have not had any problems what-so-ever. :)

The reversing sensors do not sound when reversing while towing and the trailer symbol flashes on the dash in unison with the blinkers. My Bushtracker van has a combination of LED and incandescent brake lights.

elsey...

[bcl]

Trailer assist operates with or without a trailer fitted.
It is the oscillation threshold that changes for the system to operate properly as per the brief in the FAQ.

Cheers

Thanks snugly. I was wondering when this was going to come out. There is also a video clip on the LR website regarding the trailer stability assist that describes it.

[bcl]

Damn auto correct....

[sniegy]

That's what my wife calls me :-) I don't know you that well sweetheart ;-)
Hehe!

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[minibloodhound]

Sorry, I meant that I can only assume trailer assist is to working as my reverse sensors still work when put into reverse with the camper on! :angel:

[bcl]

Yes trailer assist will still work. But, can you select off road height while trailer is connected. This might be a problem as when traveling at speed the car will automatically lower when no trailer is connected.

[Ruby2]

Hi there,

I have to echo the sentiments of everyone who has already thanked you Pete for your post and sharing your knowledge.
I bought a D4SE from Melbourne a month ago to tow my horses! Hilux was suffering from "HHS" (Heavy horse syndrome) :-)
Hubby is an accomplished mechanic and Auto electrician and will happily fit anything I like to the car...within reason...he did draw the line at the disco ball!!
With your help he's fitted my ELB happily to the car, we have some fine tuning to do because he got caught by the blue/brown wire! Anyway after one blown fuse on the trailer light wire we are in business.
LOL he was cursing last night at the differences in the wiring...he's wired up racing cars, high performance cars etc and good old Ruby had him getting into a right state :-)

I have dreamt of owning a Disco since I was a young girl and always wanted to have my car and float match. I know it may sound silly to you guys.

After test driving the D4 2.7 and then the D4 3.0 it was clear that I "needed" the 600nm of torque! Love that powa!

So thanks again and will read more on here I am sure. It's a wealth of information!

So long for now.

Julia

[Ashes]

Sniegy, is there a preferred view by LR on whether the power and earth for the controller unit is taken directly from the battery and just the other 2 control wires run to the rear or do they like to run all 4 wires from the rear? Looks like both work but is there a benefit of one over the other?

[sniegy]

Hi Ashes,
LR originally with the D3 said to run all 4 cables to the rear.
With the D4 they said run the +ve (black) & -ve (white) to the battery direct.

Personally I would run the pos & neg cables to the battery. (Earth to the earth post in front of the battery box)
Then run the other 2 cables to the rear & follow the connection process.

Cheers.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[john_paul_128]

And hearty thanks from me too Pete.

Your instructions and photos were flawless!

Only one question, I disconnected my battery during install. I am sure I had auto close on my windows before... But not now... Did I dream this, or have I lost some configuration?

Thks John

[sniegy]

Only one question, I disconnected my battery during install. I am sure I had auto close on my windows before... But not now... Did I dream this, or have I lost some configuration?

Thks John

Thanks John,
Just lost the configuration of the one touch on all of your windows.
You can reset this yourself by (have all the windows up to start with) holding the window switch al the way down when it stops its travel, hold for 2 seconds, release & hold for 2 seconds again. Then hold the button up until the window hits it fil travel & again hold for. 2 seconds, release & holds for 2 more seconds & all should be ok.
I normally do the front 2 & then the rear 2 windows.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[john_paul_128]

Thanks John,
Just lost the configuration of the one touch on all of your windows.
You can reset this yourself by (have all the windows up to start with) holding the window switch al the way down when it stops its travel, hold for 2 seconds, release & hold for 2 seconds again. Then hold the button up until the window hits it fil travel & again hold for. 2 seconds, release & holds for 2 more seconds & all should be ok.
I normally do the front 2 & then the rear 2 windows.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner
Great! thanks again Pete

[Drafrete]

I have recently had a Tekonsha P3 fitted to my D4 and so far all is good.

A couple of things about this fitting that might be of interest to forum members. First we discarded the standard plastic cradle and used a custom metal bracket that holds the controller very neatly. Having looked at the range of mounts shown in the forum, I decided I could live with two small holes for the security of a strong mounting. Having towed across the Tanamai before I appreciate solid fittings. See photo 1.

Secondly, my auto electrician has a great way of removing the white UK plug and fitting a new robust AU version, leaving the original AU fitting totally untouched. This means I have both a braked and un-braked AU plug at the back. The white one is tucked back up in the side panel where the wiring is. Still connected. See photo 2.

So I have all original wiring in place, the trailer is recognised by the car (green trailer light flashes with the indicator) and all seems good. I am very happy with the two plug options too :)

[Ashes]

Sneigy,
thanks for the info. Have mostly wired up the D3 with the exception of splicing into the tail light and hooking up the trailer plug. Car is booked in for a service this week so will get you guys to do the diode and the final bit of wiring if you dont mind. Overall not a difficult job to route the wiring following your great instructions, just time consuming. I'm sure your service guys are sick of running wiring...

cheers
Ashes

[ghoti]

Thanks Sniegy - had the car in at your 'office' today and had the Tekonsha P3 fitted along with an Andersen plug for the caravan.

Appreciate your patience with my 1001 questions!

Cheers,
Scott

[away]

Being a masochist I not only installed my Tekonsha P3, but also pulled a whacking great 13 sq mm twin power cable. Things got a bit tight in places, especially along the door sills, but in the end, all of the plastic went back where it was supposed to. Pete's guide was invaluable.

I now have an Anderson plug in the rear cargo bay as well as another on the rear bumper. The Tekonsha works perfectly and none of the exisiting car electrics are complaining, so I haven't caused any faults doing the job.

I used to install two-way radios in vehicles for a living. Now I remember why I gave it up.

Thanks Pete

Edit: Forgot to mention that in my D4 (MY12), the brown wire is not joined in the loom, but is intact along its length. Still does the same job though.

[MSTech]

Hi,
Great and interesting read.
I have had a disco 4 for about 6 weeks now.
we tow a 24 foot, 3 tonne van.
Twice the electric brakes have stopped working.
Brake light on the van stop working as well.
The Cars brake light still work though.
This problem can be fixed by turning the car off and starting again.
We thought it might be a short circuit in the brake circuit of the caravan
Put a fuse in the brake light circuit so as to stop the short going to the car but this was not the problem.
Any ideas?

Cheers

I had the same issue with my D4 and car trailer, it turns out that it was caused by the auto elec connecting the signal (red) wire to the trailer stop light feed into the socket, rather than picking up the vehicle brake light wire.

When the trailer feed is used, it creates a fault in the Body Control Module (trailer stop light short to ground) that leads the BCM to shut down that circuit, hence the loss of the trailer brakes and the stop lights on the trailer.

Hope this helps.

[wcody01]

Thanks MSTech
Since that post i have had the electric brakes re-installed at australs in brisbane. neat remote unit in the dash replacing the box at my legs that used to be. have had no problems since, all gredit and thanks to australs

My problem however was intement. could this be because i have LED lights on the caravan??

Cheers
Will

[Banjo_pluker]

I have recently had a Tekonsha P3 fitted to my D4 and so far all is good.

A couple of things about this fitting that might be of interest to forum members. First we discarded the standard plastic cradle and used a custom metal bracket that holds the controller very neatly. Having looked at the range of mounts shown in the forum, I decided I could live with two small holes for the security of a strong mounting. Having towed across the Tanamai before I appreciate solid fittings. See photo 1.

Secondly, my auto electrician has a great way of removing the white UK plug and fitting a new robust AU version, leaving the original AU fitting totally untouched. This means I have both a braked and un-braked AU plug at the back. The white one is tucked back up in the side panel where the wiring is. Still connected. See photo 2.

So I have all original wiring in place, the trailer is recognised by the car (green trailer light flashes with the indicator) and all seems good. I am very happy with the two plug options too :)

That is a steep angle on the p3. Have you towed with it? I would have thought it was too steep for the p3 inertia sensors

[SBD4]

That is a steep angle on the p3. Have you towed with it? I would have thought it was too steep for the p3 inertia sensors

The P3 horizontal plane must be level but the longitudinal plane can be positioned at any angle (full 360 deg). It has to be mounted parallel to vehicle travel. The sensor is self levelling - even going up and down hills.

[MSTech]

Thanks MSTech
Since that post i have had the electric brakes re-installed at australs in brisbane. neat remote unit in the dash replacing the box at my legs that used to be. have had no problems since, all gredit and thanks to australs

My problem however was intement. could this be because i have LED lights on the caravan??

Cheers
Will

Mine was intermitent as well, with the unit working maybe once out of every 4 starts, it looks like the issue comes down to an interaction between the current draw of the controller and the trailer brakes, with the issue less likely to occur when the controller (Redarc) was turned down to it's lowest setting on startup, the issue then became that if the gain was turned up to high, then the fault protection would kick in and it was back to having no brakes or stop lights on the trailer.

[Banjo_pluker]

The P3 horizontal plane must be level but the longitudinal plane can be positioned at any angle (full 360 deg). It has to be mounted parallel to vehicle travel. The sensor is self levelling - even going up and down hills.

Sweet:)

I must have understood the instructions wrong- that makes it a lot easier to install (gives more options) than I understood-

thanks

[Lanceanot]

I’m thinking of hard wiring in a Led Adaptor Module in behind the trailer plug so that it is available to any trailer I use.
Is this a good idea?
Will my D4 think I have a trailer connected all the time or is there a way to over come this?

[wcody01]

Lanceanot,
I have a pulsebusta unit for when i tow LED equiped trailers. if i dont have a trailer but do have the pulse buster pluged in the vehicle still thinks it has a trailer behind ie trailer light on the dash. what i have done is made my pulsebuster in to a patch lead ie male one end female the other so i can use it or not.
Cheers
Will

[john_paul_128]

I’m thinking of hard wiring in a Led Adaptor Module in behind the trailer plug so that it is available to any trailer I use.
Is this a good idea?
Will my D4 think I have a trailer connected all the time or is there a way to over come this?
Lanceanot,

I created a patch cable that may be of interest to you, has the load resistors in it. It is posted at http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/154891-trailer-connection-jayco-12-pin-plug.html

Rgds, John

[sniegy]

Lanceanot,
I have one wired in the back of my D4, there is a switch that allows you to turn it on/off for operation.
Mine is fitted in the L/H stowage section.
Good piece of kit.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[Canaussie]

Hey all just a note,

After reading this thread and attempting the install myself of a redarc remote head, just wanted to say that when I was looking for the spliced in wire with the heat shrink, I found it in the L/H stowage area and not at the light as previously stated earlier in this thread.

Just a heads up for anyone else that may have difficulty finding that joint.

:o just realized now that I have forgot to wire in a 3 amp diode......oh well of to the electrics store to get one.

I pick my camper trailer up Ina couple of weeks so hope for the best as it had led lights.

On another note, I was sitting in vehicle and asked swmbo to check to see if the brake lights were working, when the vehicle was off( key in house) and depressed brake no lights came on. When ignition was on then the brake lights worked. Is this right? Did not check before to see what they did, I just know from past experiences that brake lights will come on regardless of state of ignition, D4 must be to electronic....:p

Anyways mounted redarc on light cluster module,

THANKS PETE FOR THIS VERY USEFUL AND HELPFUL POST!!!:)

Cheers Billy

[Drafrete]

Hi, sorry for a delayed response but I have been off the forum for a while. Yes I have towed with it like that. Including into Dalhousie springs and it works just fine.

[Lanceanot]

Will, John and sniegy, thanks for your advice.
I already had the LED Module but I didn’t like it, or the extra cable length, being zipped tied to the front of the van which is why I wanted to hard wire it into the car.
I’ve now done this running all 7 wires thru the module which I mounted under the car above the spare wheel. It could not be mounted in the L/H storage section, as sniegy's good suggestion, as I’ve already modified and filled up that space with an aux battery, DC-DC charger and 350W inverter.
However, now having 20:20 hindsight I realise that I only needed to run the two turn indicator wires and the earth thru the module. Taking sniegy’s advise I installed an off/on switch on the earth wire and mounted it on top of the trailer plug for easy access .
All good so far but I still need to install the diode so its back under the car again

[simoncs]

Hi sniegy,

i have tried to send you a PM, but not sure if you received it as it doesn't show in my sent box:confused:

I have put together a doc of all the relevant posts so that I can follow this easily in the garage (without internet connection). Can i forward to you to check? It can then be uploaded onto the thread.

cheers

Simon

[ashhill]

First post so please go easy.

I picked up my Disco 4 SE last week and had my electric brake controller fitted today and the large 7 pin plug replaced and wired for a 12 pin for towing my Jayco, which has the Led lights. I plugged the caravan into the socket this evening.

Brakes worked, all the lights worked. Did not notice pulsing. The reversing sensors stopped working and did not start again until I had unplugged the van and turned the car on and off again. However when selecting the indicators or hazards I did not get any symbology on the dashboard.

I have not had any resistors fitted the indicators on the van.

Given that my reversing sensors stopped working, does this mean that the car is recognising the caravan?

[wcody01]

Ashhill
Had exactly the same scenario with my disco 4 SE and my jayco van.
We towed around Tasmania for 5000 KM without the trailer indicator light flashing.
We had the electric brakes stop working twice but i beleive that was for another reason since rectified.
Since we came home i bought a pulse busta and have mde it a patch lead, male one end and female the other so i can use depending on the trailer.
I highly reckomend having a good look through this thread and others as there is a lot of information and solutions from people who are a lot more educated in this are than me.
I think then you will be able to make the best solution that fits your neads.
Cheers
Willl
Ps. I now have the trailer light flashing when towing LED trailers but i can't say i've noticed anything different

[bcl]

I have an my12 d4 also and experience the same as above with no flashing trailer light when indicators operate. Reverse sensor stops when led trailer connected. note after connecting I do have to turn car off and on to detect trailer.

Have connected older style trailor with normal globes and same results.

I have had trailer stability assist operate on 2 occasions.

All good :-)

[bcl]

In addition. The newer d4s have led indicator lights anyway don't they?

Have they LR fixed or changed pulse buster requirement?

[Dingo Charlie]

I have a 2012 D4 3.0L And I tow a caravan and boat that both have Led lights. The lights on them would not pulse or flicker as previously stated with the d4 but I wanted the little green trailer icon on the dash and reverse beeps to disable. I used Led resistors from LED autolamps at $20 for a pair, wired them into the indicator circuits and one in the brake circuit for good luck. I then added a switch to turn these on or off. When turned on I get the trailer icon flashing on every indicator pulse and the reverse beeps are disabled. This was a very easy and inexpensive solution. I also use the tekonsha P3 as my brake controller and it is wired in a per previous posts.... ;)

[swordfish805]

In addition. The newer d4s have led indicator lights anyway don't they?

Have they LR fixed or changed pulse buster requirement?

The fact the car has LEDs isn't relevant. The relevant issue is that the car detects the presence of a trailer via the current on the trailer brake circuit - this works fine when the trailer has conventional incandescant globes but is hit and miss when the trailer has LEDs.

[NutoLR]

Hi Ashes,
LR originally with the D3 said to run all 4 cables to the rear.
With the D4 they said run the +ve (black) & -ve (white) to the battery direct.

Personally I would run the pos & neg cables to the battery. (Earth to the earth post in front of the battery box).
Then run the other 2 cables to the rear & follow the connection process.

.....

(don't know why the quote split above - it was from the one post!)

Hi Sniegy,

I am about to install a Tekonsha P3 EBC in my MY09 RRS (2008 build) and have been studying your excellent instructions and posts (for both the D3 and D4) from as far back as Feb 2008, and also those questions/answers from all other members who have also contributed to this discussion. At this stage my concern is not so much about the wiring connections per se, but detail on how to best remove the various trim panels. May be I am not looking in the right places, but I haven't been able to find much on the forum that would help a lot .....

Although I’ll be following your 2008 instructions for my RRS, I will be varying it slightly to get power and earth for the EBC (Tekonsha P3) from the engine compartment via the much photographed grommet in the firewall, per your endorsement (above) for a D3/RRS installation . That will leave me just having to run 2 wires - the Red & Blue - from the EBC to behind the LH rear 1/4 panel.

However, in the few months only that I have owned my RRS I’ve had no need to remove any trim panels. So I am a little apprehensive because I don't want to damage the panels or to make the task more difficult and/or costly as a consequence of a ham-fisted approach. I intend to run the cables down the driver’s side via the sills per your instructions, and, as I want to be sure that I’m using the right procedures and/or tools/aids to do the job properly, I would appreciate advice on exactly how to remove these panels,specifically:

a) Panel under the steering wheel - you covered in several your previous posts - I assume its the same for the RRS?
b) Side panel adjacent to accelerator
c) Drivers side tread plate panel - what do your use to prise with?
d) B-pillar trim (I assume this is pillar on which the rear door hinges?) If so, the trim appears to be in 2 pieces, a quite short lower piece and a much longer upper piece which appears to overlap the former. How are both best removed?
e) C-pillar trim (aft of back door?) From the front of the vehicle back to the C panel can see that the D3 and RRS are likely to be very similar (although I have never seen a D3 up close enough to judge for myself), but it seems to me that from the C-panel backwards that the instructions might differ from the D3 to the RRS ??
f) RHS big rear 1/4 panel. Where to start, etc?
g) Across rear (behind lift-up floor above the stowage area for towing parts and access to lower the spare)
h) LHS big rear 1/4 panel, where I believe the connections need to be made.

I would also like to install a 4-core video cable alongside the 2-core EBC wiring to the back LH 1/4 panel. Do you think there would sufficient vertical clearance between the top of the sill and the underside of the tread plates?

In addition - and down the track a bit - I also intend to install a second battery kit. Would it be appropriate – and would there be sufficient space – to lay the wiring for the auxiliary battery alongside as well? If it is, I’ll pre-wire this while I have the trims off for the EBC installation.

I know there a lot of questions here, but if others who have done this installation on an RRS, I'd be grateful for your comments also.

Cheers,
John ....

[sniegy]

(don't know why the quote split above - it was from the one post!)

Hi Sniegy,

I am about to install a Tekonsha P3 EBC in my MY09 RRS (2008 build) and have been studying your excellent instructions and posts (for both the D3 and D4) from as far back as Feb 2008, and also those questions/answers from all other members who have also contributed to this discussion. At this stage my concern is not so much about the wiring connections per se, but detail on how to best remove the various trim panels. May be I am not looking in the right places, but I haven't been able to find much on the forum that would help a lot .....

Although I’ll be following your 2008 instructions for my RRS, I will be varying it slightly to get power and earth for the EBC (Tekonsha P3) from the engine compartment via the much photographed grommet in the firewall, per your endorsement (above) for a D3/RRS installation . That will leave me just having to run 2 wires - the Red & Blue - from the EBC to behind the LH rear 1/4 panel.

However, in the few months only that I have owned my RRS I’ve had no need to remove any trim panels. So I am a little apprehensive because I don't want to damage the panels or to make the task more difficult and/or costly as a consequence of a ham-fisted approach. I intend to run the cables down the driver’s side via the sills per your instructions, and, as I want to be sure that I’m using the right procedures and/or tools/aids to do the job properly, I would appreciate advice on exactly how to remove these panels,specifically:

a) Panel under the steering wheel - you covered in several your previous posts - I assume its the same for the RRS?
Grab the top & swing out & down towards the ground, you will most likely send a clip flying, if you cant find it FYC500040.
b) Side panel adjacent to accelerator
Slides towards the rear of the vehicle.
c) Drivers side tread plate panel - what do your use to prise with?
I just use my fingers, but be gentle, if you lose the clips, you will spends hours trying to fish them out. again be patient! Again dont need to fully remove as you can work with it in situ.
d) B-pillar trim (I assume this is pillar on which the rear door hinges?) If so, the trim appears to be in 2 pieces, a quite short lower piece and a much longer upper piece which appears to overlap the former. How are both best removed?
This trim (lower) just pops off, peel the door seal away from either front or rear & stick your finger in between & it will literally pop off, you wont require the removal of the top one.
e) C-pillar trim (aft of back door?) From the front of the vehicle back to the C panel can see that the D3 and RRS are likely to be very similar (although I have never seen a D3 up close enough to judge for myself), but it seems to me that from the C-panel backwards that the instructions might differ from the D3 to the RRS ??
Yes the panel are quite different. If you wish to run a cable to the L/H/S (passenger) 1/4 area
You dont need to remove R/H/S as they are a pain, but a long coat hanger wire will come in handy. I start by removing the door seal at the rear of the rear passenger door, this will give you something to start with, now remove the small pocket from the loadspace area-panel on R/H/S in loadspace area, You will be able to poke the coathanger wire through to this point & then pass it under the lower section & across the rear of the vehicle to the L/H/S.
f) RHS big rear 1/4 panel. Where to start, etc?
Refer above.
g) Across rear (behind lift-up floor above the stowage area for towing parts and access to lower the spare)
Refer D4 fit out as i have photo's (D3/D4 & Spt are the same vehicle)
h) LHS big rear 1/4 panel, where I believe the connections need to be made.
This panel needs to be unclipped & held out of the way while you do the work. Its easier to only partially take out as it involves a lot of floor panels to be removed to fully remove this panel.
I would also like to install a 4-core video cable alongside the 2-core EBC wiring to the back LH 1/4 panel. Do you think there would sufficient vertical clearance between the top of the sill and the underside of the tread plates?
There is enough room to run extra cables, worse case scenario is lift carpet edge & run further into vehicle.
In addition - and down the track a bit - I also intend to install a second battery kit. Would it be appropriate – and would there be sufficient space – to lay the wiring for the auxiliary battery alongside as well? If it is, I’ll pre-wire this while I have the trims off for the EBC installation.
What do you intend on running? power supply for fridge i can take as a guess, anything else? If this is it, then run it once & store cable under bonnet area.
I know there a lot of questions here, but if others who have done this installation on an RRS, I'd be grateful for your comments also.

Cheers,
John ....

John,
Refer above in Red
Where abouts are you located?
Melbourne?
If so, maybe we could meet up & i could show you, the Sport is a little different to the Discovery & Panels need to be removed which can be scarry for some owners.
You will need to follow the instructions to the D3 section as this has instructions on how to modify the fuse block & this is the location you connect your blue wire.
Again DO NOT follow the D4 section.

Hope this helps in some way.
If you need more info. then ask away.
Cheers

[Gazoom]

Hi All
new to all this towing stuff and have to get elec brakes fitted for the horse float. Was towing an empty float with head lights on auto and went into a tunnel and the trailer brakes locked on up in 2 different tunnels. After the second I one realised what the cause was. Spoke to Gold Coast LR but thye had never heard of it before. Anyone with a similar misadventure.
From the pages that I have read it appears that most people are fitting and wiring their electric brakes themselves, yet I have spoken to a number of companies here on the GC and they all shudder. Is this why people are doing it themselves as it is so difficult to get right. I have a real problem as I am about as handy as mamary glands on a bull so I guess its off to GC Landrover and giving them my mortage. Anyone have an auto elec around these parts that can be recommended for this tricky business.
Thanks
:confused:

[sniegy]

Welcome Gazoom,
You arent the first & you definately wont be the last!

Refer either fitout for the compulsory 2nd park light wire to be cut.

Some of the other guys here live in your neck of the woods & someone will know of a good auto elec to help out.
Sorry i am too far away.

Cheers

[NutoLR]

John,
Refer above in Red
Where abouts are you located?
Melbourne?
If so, maybe we could meet up & i could show you, the Sport is a little different to the Discovery & Panels need to be removed which can be scarry for some owners.
You will need to follow the instructions to the D3 section as this has instructions on how to modify the fuse block & this is the location you connect your blue wire.
Again DO NOT follow the D4 section.

Hope this helps in some way.
If you need more info. then ask away.
Cheers

Hi Pete,

Thanks for your detailed response. Yes, it will help for sure.

I am pretty happy with your answers to my questions, and I am now fairly confident I can perform the installation.

However, in regard to the rear LHS panel, you mention that its easier to just partially remove it because of the floor panels, etc. Do you mean that it can be unclipped along the top, back and front edges and rotated into the boot,or does it open up access another way?

Further, can the terminations that need to be made in this area, be made by pulling that part of the wiring out from behind the pulled-back 1/4 panel, or must the wiring mods be made in situ in the space behind the panel where wiring lives?

Yes, I will be following the instructions for a D3 installation.

I live in Adelaide and while I get to Melbourne fairly often, I don't expect to be doing so this side of Christmas. But many thanks for your offer to meet up; it would have been good.

Cheers,
John ....

[NTB]

Hello Gazoom,

I purchased my D4 SDV6 from Bruce Lynton Land Rover on the Gold Coast.
I had them install a Brake Controller as part of the purchase because I had heard that there are a few tricks to getting it right and wanted a D4 ready to tow.
I have not found any faults with their install.

Very interesting to hear their response to what you described. After now owning the D4 for 12 months and reading information on this forum it appeared very obvious what would be the problem.

If you wish to have someone other than Bruce Lynton Land Rover to do the install I do not know of any Auto Electricians myself. But a friend had Brake Controller and Anderson Plug installed into his new 4WD and was happy with their work and they were a Mobile Operator from memory. If you wish their details just let myself know and I shall find out for you. I am at North Brisbane so he maybe or may not be interesting in work at the Gold Coast. You never know until you ask.

NTB

[sniegy]

Hi Pete,

Thanks for your detailed response. Yes, it will help for sure.

I am pretty happy with your answers to my questions, and I am now fairly confident I can perform the installation.

However, in regard to the rear LHS panel, you mention that its easier to just partially remove it because of the floor panels, etc. Do you mean that it can be unclipped along the top, back and front edges and rotated into the boot,or does it open up access another way?
Yes, Exactly, If you remove the Lower trim that runs across the bottom of the tail gate(goes around the tail gate latch) this just pulls up & on each end unclips from under a panel, if you take it slowly you will see what i mean.(p.s. it is flexible)
Remove the tail gate seal just along the area you need to work in, be careful the white goo stains! Also the panel that can be rotated into the vehicle just unclips, now it is only the lower section you need to unclip, when it all comes apart you can see where everything goes back, dont pull it too far as this also has the power outlet connected.

Further, can the terminations that need to be made in this area, be made by pulling that part of the wiring out from behind the pulled-back 1/4 panel, or must the wiring mods be made in situ in the space behind the panel where wiring lives?
Once you rotate the panel inwards you can do all the connections in that area. There is enough room & the connector is easily reached.
The lower fuse block is easy to lift out also, push tab inwards & lift upwards.

Yes, I will be following the instructions for a D3 installation.

I live in Adelaide and while I get to Melbourne fairly often, I don't expect to be doing so this side of Christmas. But many thanks for your offer to meet up; it would have been good.

Cheers,
John ....

Cheers & good luck.;)

[Shane 3157]

I have a 2012 D4 3.0L And I tow a caravan and boat that both have Led lights. The lights on them would not pulse or flicker as previously stated with the d4 but I wanted the little green trailer icon on the dash and reverse beeps to disable. I used Led resistors from LED autolamps at $20 for a pair, wired them into the indicator circuits and one in the brake circuit for good luck. I then added a switch to turn these on or off. When turned on I get the trailer icon flashing on every indicator pulse and the reverse beeps are disabled. This was a very easy and inexpensive solution. I also use the tekonsha P3 as my brake controller and it is wired in a per previous posts.... ;)

Hi, any chance getting the detail of the Led lamps you got the resistor from? Much appreciated. You'd think that there would be a software fix for. Ie adjust the parameter needed to recognise a lower current draw from the blinker cct
Shane

[Gazoom]

Hi Sniegy
thanks for the run down and have booked it in to Lyntons for fitting in December. By chance have you had any issue with the factory fitted tow bar. You obviously tow alot and I am new to this but I have read some pretty horrific stories on various sites. It appears that the most talked about towing setup is a Mitchell Brothers tow bar. I can't imagine that LR would release a towing setup that is so dangerous, I wonder if it is something to do with the operator. One person with a Disco 3 told me a story of towing a horse float down a pretty steep hill and the brakes took control, slowed the vehicle down and then locked as they had got over heated. This has happened twice to her and they had to get police and heavy duty tow vehicles etc and took many hours to get sorted. From my lay person point of view I kinda think that maybe the float brakes weren't set to the correct engaging setting. Long thanks I know but I really like to jump my hurdles before I get to them especially when there is a ton of horse meat trying to get into the back seat.
Thanks again Gary:(

[Gazoom]

Sorry NTB this was meant for you.

[NTB]

Hello Gary (Gazoom),

I do not tow all the time. Mostly holidays with the Campervan, Trailers to the dump and some times a large cattle cage. I have not experienced any issues with the Land rover Setup for what I do so far. My cousin had a Mitch Hitch fitted to his D3. It made towing his large plate boat safer for him because his D3 Land Rover Setup was sometimes hitting the boat ramp and driveway. The D4 Land Rover setup is a better setup than the D3 from what I know. As for Electric Trailer Brakes I have found that some people do not adjust or setup the controller for the load they are towing. Then when asking the load to stop, the Car is doing most of the Braking instead of it being shared with the Trailer. You just need to adjust the controller so it works for you. I believe there are all sorts of bad stories floating around the place no matter what car is towing.

I have not towed Horse Floats but my girls would be keen for me to have the need.

I hope everything goes well for you.
I shall be picking my D4 up from Bruce Lynton Land Rover tomorrow after its 12 Month service.

NTB

[Goaroving]

First off can I thank all the contributors to this thread it has answered a lot of my initial queries on brake controllers, LED's on vans and problems with the D4 recognising new caravans.
I bought my MY10 D4 6 months ago it was fitted with a Voyager brake controller and the guy assured me it worked fine and that the vehicle had been made compatible with using LED trailer lights.
Having taken delivery of a brand new caravan and just got back from a short trip to test it I've realized that placing the controller low down on the passenger side is a BIG No no so I will be shifting it to where I can get to it while driving. My question is - If I upgrade to a P3 will I be able to use the same wiring used for the Voyager?
I also found that it did not recognize the caravan so it looks like i will need to fit a Pulse Busta. It's in at MLR today for service and and asked them to have a quick look at what might be needed as I've heard they provide good service.
Again thanks for the great advice this forum gives and I can't keep the smile off my face when driving.

Bob

[sniegy]

Hi Bob,
the existing wiring can be used.
Would recommend fitting a Tekonsha P3 if your Van is above 2/2.5 tonne &/or dual axle.

Cheers

[Goaroving]

Thanks for the advice Pete,
It's 2.9 tonne GVM with dual axle cruisemaster suspension so it's a P3 for me. MLR quoted me $500 fitted for their version of a pulse Busta. Not sure which way to go on that as I'm no wiring expert.

Bob

[phl]

MLR quoted me $500 fitted for their version of a pulse Busta. Not sure which way to go on that as I'm no wiring expert.

Bob

Wouldn't it be cheaper getting LED indicator lights replaced with those that have the built in resistors from someone like hids4u.co.uk rather than having the Pulse Busta?

[ghoti]

Wouldn't it be cheaper getting LED indicator lights replaced with those that have the built in resistors from someone like hids4u.co.uk rather than having the Pulse Busta?

I just bought a pack of two 50w 6 Ohm resistors for $9.95 from fleabay for my boat trailer. Hope to fit them on the weekend and will let you know how they fare.

[HJF]

I have the prodigy unit fitted to by Sports and tow a Jayco expander outback (about 1700kilo fully loaded).
Was heading to Coffs Harbour on the 29th of Dec in light is traffic. We were sitting on about 105 when suddenly the traffic stopped, I hit the breaks hard and the ABS went off steered the car to the left on to the shoulder to avoid hitting the camp trailer in front of me. The van pulled up perfectly straight behind the car without putting any presure the car.

Very happy with the preformance of the prodigy unit and would recommend to anyone looking to fit one

[eddomak]

Hi, I have been keeping this thread in my "saved" folder for a while, and I might need to call on this in a hurry if some plans on the weekend work out. ;)

My use would be with a camper-trailer <1100+kgs with electric brakes, and probably less than 10 times a year.

As I see it, my options are:
1) Tekonsha RF - love the concept, but not approved for use in Australia, so not really an option
2) Redarc EBRH - like the low footprint install, but it doesn't seem to be proportional?
3) Tekonsha P3 - like the proportional nature, but large installation/use footprint

My question boils down to: How important is the proportional control in my situation?

[RoverLander]

I'm about to go through the same exercise. I can confirm that Redarc is not proportional as i talked with them last week.

My problem is that i am 6 foot 6 and therefore i dont want to do an under the drivers dash install.

So i am trying to work out a proportional controller that will fit somewhere usable.

[discovery4]

Hi Guys,

I have just had a P2 Tekonsha installed in my D4. I am 6' 4" so didn't want to have the unit under the dash either. At the suggestion of my auto electrician I agreed to have the control unit installed in the top RHS of the top glove box where I can easily reach to adjust.

Cheers
Bob

[ADMIRAL]

I'm about to go through the same exercise. I can confirm that Redarc is not proportional as i talked with them last week.

My problem is that i am 6 foot 6 and therefore i dont want to do an under the drivers dash install.

So i am trying to work out a proportional controller that will fit somewhere usable.

Hayman Reese have a new remote controller. Head to your local HR dealer, and ask to see the compact remote controller. I think the number is 05550. Similar setup to the Redarc remote, but with the addition of a progressive brake application control dial.

[eddomak]

Hayman Reese have a new remote controller. Head to your local HR dealer, and ask to see the compact remote controller. I think the number is 05550. Similar setup to the Redarc remote, but with the addition of a progressive brake application control dial.

Thanks for that - I have just looked on their site and here is the product:
Hayman Reese (http://haymanreese.com.au/products/CompactBrakecontroller.htm)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Looks like it takes a bit more real estate than the Redarc, and the eBay price of $205 makes it a bit more expensive as well (but it has that extra feature).

[RoverLander]

I just had a look at the Haymen Reese compact comtroller. It unfortunately is also not a proportional controller. Im not exactly sure what the extra synch control does? I think you can set how quickly the controller applies the set brake force. Rather than it just applying the brakes at the set level it can apply them more progressively at a rate set by you.

Proportional controllers detect the amount of decelleration in the car and apply more brake power the quicker you stop. I much prefer the proportional approach. It just makes more sense that the trailer is applying a similar amount of brake force as the car.

So its back to the drawing board to find a suitable one that doesnt take up space. Otherwise i will have to mount it in the open fron top glove box as previously suggested here.

Peter

[ADMIRAL]

Thanks for that - I have just looked on their site and here is the product:
Hayman Reese (http://haymanreese.com.au/products/CompactBrakecontroller.htm)

http://haymanreese.com.au/images/compactwebmain.jpg

Looks like it takes a bit more real estate than the Redarc, and the eBay price of $205 makes it a bit more expensive as well (but it has that extra feature).

Visually it does look bulky, but in reality, it is very compact. The square box in the pic, can be mounted anywhere and is about 70mm square. The rotary controls and the indicator are effectively just wiring with the switchgear/globes on the end. I guess if you didn't want the sticker, they could be mounted anywhere in any order.

The progressive control allows a variable time for your preset brake pressure to be achieved. The proportional controllers usually use a pendulum type setup internally to measure decelleration. As a result they are generally bulky, and have mounting limitations. I think the maximum angle they can be mounted on is about 35 degrees ( Could be wrong at 35, but there is a maximum angle allowed.) As they use pendulums, they are deficient in off road use, and are pretty much designed for blacktop.

[Graeme]

The P3 doesn't use a pendulum but an electronic accelerometer which itself is quite small. Accelerometers work in specific planes and their operation is not affected by movements in other planes.

[Kev61]

Any suggestions as to where is the best spot for the Redarc remote head?

[Tombie]

Search for sniegys posts...

[Gussinator]

Hi all. Just curious regarding the fitment of an electric brake controller on my disco 4. I have read the relevant threads and I have a couple of questions.
I have traced out the wiring on my truck, removed the LH rear tail light ass and the plastic cover on the inside, and the trailer plug under cover above tow ball. Just wondering where the wires that are plugged into the trailer wiring loom go???? I know the LR3, (in the US anyway), has a grey plastic plug under the dash that just gets plugged into the brake control unit, so these wires are factory terminated where the control unit would be retro fitted. Does the LR 4 not have the same set up?? Surely Land Rover must realize that a great many of the customers would benefit from this pre-installed wiring and it would represent a much faster, easier and tidier install.

[ozetim]

You're right ,it would be nice if the D4 was 'plug & play'. I recently did my D4 MY13 following the instructions in this post and it works as expected. The wiring loom in the LH rear has a label identifying it as the AU trailer harness. Running the wires thru was time consuming but I did the dual battery at the same time. If you're wondering how to get the white and black wires into the engine bay, just look above the steering arm in the engine bay and you'll see a large grommet. Take it out and use a screwdriver to push a hole thru the soundproofing into the drivers footwell. Have fun :)

[Datt]

Just did this install with a Tekonsha Voyager unit. Will be testing it out tomorrow when I borrow the old mans van for a two week holiday. Thanks for the tutorial Sneigy.

Matt.

[Weird Al]

Hi all, I have just upgraded from my old bomb D4 . . . . .

to a brand new D4 :)

When installing the electric brake controller wiring I could not find the 'splice' joint, because its now located INSIDE the car.

So you dont have to remove the tail lamp anymore.

For the record my car is a Oct 2013 build.


Oh and to make sense of the pic you need to touch your left ear on your shoulder...

[albo42]

from one wierd Al in Canberra to another - can you recommend anyone to fit a controller in Canberra (I'm useless). Picked up my MY14 on Friday and have been quoted $1600 by Lennocks!

[RHS58]

$1600 sounds very steep.
But I'm in a similar boat.
Wouldn't say useless, but very time poor for the next while, but having sold Prado have some funds to spend on new D4.
Not keen to get extorted though
Need a recommendation for installer / auto electrician familiar with LR especially D4 I guess. Brisbane northside, Redcliffe Caboolture or Sunshine Coast.
Tekonsha P3 brake controller, as well as Traxide DBS kit. May as we'll pull all the wires through in one job.
SWMBO wants action ASAP - seems she's keen to get the caravan rolling again.

Thanks in advance
Ron.

[Weird Al]

Hey albo42 ..... ouch $1600

Sorry no idea about auto elec's in town, I do all that sort of thing myself.


Perhaps try Canberra Motor Works in Mitchell, they are good with all things LR.

A

[Benno]

Also in a similar situation. Heading o/s for 5 weeks on Saturday, and was hoping to get elec brakes + some other work done whilst I'm gone.

How did you guys go?

B

[pwillo]

Fitted a full Traxside system myself in bits and pieces over a week as I had some spare time. The instructions are great. The hardest part I found was lifting the sill covers, go figure. Basic knowledge and the ability to follow instructions will get you through that part.

I have not yet a need for a brake controller so unable to assist there.

Regards

[RHS58]

I've read the comprehensive instructions for installing Traxide system and will run a wire for electric brake controller at the same time.
Have set aside next Wednesday to do the job.
Kit hopefully arrives on Monday.
I am a wee bit concerned for knuckle skin, and am a little concerned that Tim doesn't include band aids in the kit. Maybe he has some faith in my abilities.

[rufusking]

Having a second person to pull the cable through the firewall (one under the dash and in the engine bay) makes that part of the job easier.

[albo42]

Also in a similar situation. Heading o/s for 5 weeks on Saturday, and was hoping to get elec brakes + some other work done whilst I'm gone.

How did you guys go?

B
Lonsdale Auto Electrics quoted $650 supply and fit a Redarc (or similar price for a P3, which I is what I think I'll get). Sounds good to me. They reckon they've done a few Discos but were happy if I wanted to bring in Sneigy's instructions! Will let you know how it turns out.

[Jimlr]

I think I have read all 24 pages so far, but still I have s couple of silly questions...

I have a Tekonsha P3 to get into an MY14 (so rear loom INSIDE the car), and the short loom the controller comes with needs each wire extending to get to all the car's termination points. So they will be crimped with bullet connectors I assume.

Secondly, what spec (type/amps/whatever) and length of wire is required for each of the 4 runs? Any specific type of wire to the circuit breaker? The two wires to the back of the car would be fairly long I assume, since they need to go all the way down the drivers side and across the back of the luggage area (5-6 metres ?)

[Meken]

Sounds like a trip to auto electrician who has installed into LR before - brakes are not for the novice - and you can easily screw up the car electronics with the connections needed. The elec who installed my P3 said they could easily draw up to 30amps under heavy braking with a heavy trailer.... My dad's professionally installed ebc almost burnt the car to the ground due to poor installation job causing an arc every time the brake was used (even without trailer connected)

[sniegy]

I think I have read all 24 pages so far, but still I have s couple of silly questions...

I have a Tekonsha P3 to get into an MY14 (so rear loom INSIDE the car), and the short loom the controller comes with needs each wire extending to get to all the car's termination points. So they will be crimped with bullet connectors I assume.

Secondly, what spec (type/amps/whatever) and length of wire is required for each of the 4 runs? Any specific type of wire to the circuit breaker? The two wires to the back of the car would be fairly long I assume, since they need to go all the way down the drivers side and across the back of the luggage area (5-6 metres ?)

Ok, I use a proper ratchet crimping tool & bullet connectors (Male & Female).

The wire needs to be minimum 4mm2 for the Blue wire as this is the varying voltage wire. The Black, White & Red can be 2.5mm2.

Cheers.

[RHS58]

Hi Sniegy
HAve just DIY'd Traxide dual battery kit. Time and patience was the key.
In my new D4 the Australia trailer loom is now in the LHR cubby hole.
I'm a little confused from your instructions on page 1 why you are cutting brown park light wire. Is this because earlier D4's had a Euro loom?
Am I now with the newly positioned Aust loom simply joining my 2 wires to the blue and red wires in the loom? And/or am I running blue all the way to the trailer plug socket?
Cutting nothing till I'm 150% certain
Cheers
Ron

[sniegy]

Hi Sniegy
HAve just DIY'd Traxide dual battery kit. Time and patience was the key.
In my new D4 the Australia trailer loom is now in the LHR cubby hole.
I'm a little confused from your instructions on page 1 why you are cutting brown park light wire. Is this because earlier D4's had a Euro loom?
Am I now with the newly positioned Aust loom simply joining my 2 wires to the blue and red wires in the loom? And/or am I running blue all the way to the trailer plug socket?
Cutting nothing till I'm 150% certain
Cheers
Ron

Hey Ron,
Good idea, I like the 150% :D
The wiring Loom for AUS has always been in the L/H/R cubby area.

Ron the vehicle has two park light circuits. One goes to pin 7 which is what we require. But one goes to pin 5 which is where we need our blue wire (from the electric trailer brake unit) to go to.
The loom has a black wire (Park Light circuit) which then splits into 2 & goes off to pin 5 & pin 7. When the wire splits it goes from a single black wire through a soldered & glued connector to become a brown wire(goes to pin 5) & a black wire which (goes to pin 7) in the standard position.
So, in the L/H/R cubby area where the loom lives, The soldered/glued connector is wrapped in tape (It used to be on the outside but the loom has changed) you need to peel back the tape to find this & cut as close as possible to the glue & connect your blue wire to it.
Some people like to run the wiring to the rear of the black plug. In the photo's of mine (Early D4) i connected it under the tail light. If you like you can run the cable to the rear of the plug & connect there if you wish.

HTH in some way, any questions please feel free to ask away.
Cheers

[RHS58]

Many thanks, at last I've got it!!
It was all there, I just couldnt visualise it.
Now I'm good to go.
Cheers
Ron

[RHS58]

Done and dusted.
P3 is in. Controller in front of left knee. Plenty of room, close to hand.
All went well.
Works fine.
Did all the grunt work last weekend running cables at same time as Traxide DBS install.
Had auto electrician finish off all the joins etc for me, and wire in the Linear Electronics in vehicle module. He has skills and tools I don't.
He also found that the left and right indicator wires at the black trailer plug socket had been transposed - a blooper at the factory it seems.

[letherm]

He also found that the left and right indicator wires at the black trailer plug socket had been transposed - a blooper at the factory it seems.

At least you had it connected. I had my MY13 NOV D4 into the dealers last week to fit the wiring loom which had been left out at manufacture. No wonder the trailer plug didn't work. :o

[Kingsley]

Greetings from a newbie, this is a great thread and I am now a (dangerously) informed customer heading to auto electrician with my 2013 D4 to get P3 etc fitted. Thanks Sniegy for your support.

[Kingsley]

Things are getting complicated - now I need a breakaway brake battery status light on the dash as well as break unit. Any hints on fitting this Sniegy or Team? Seems like I am going to run out of pins to connect wires through.

[sniegy]

Hi Kingsley,
I am not sure what is needed for the breakaway light "on the dash" but have wired supply for breakaway brakes (which can be a set of brakes on a trailer)

What was required for this was just a separate power feed to pin no.2 for the supply of said brakes.

Some more info. may be required.
But hopefully this is enough.....maybe!!??

Cheers