Its.....Broken

[M.Allison]

Hey,

sooo im gonna cry and there is a valid reason for this!...i went out 4wding on Saturday and i was having a ball as usual.

I went through a bog hole and somehow and this always happens all three lines (brake, ABS, Breather) got caught in my spring or something im not sure what it is and it snapped them all :(

so i was a little bit angry there and i put a screw in the end of the line...

then i managed to brake my power line to my head unit and UHF? how i dont know.

Then on the way home my car started making this weird clacking noise.

SO! what i need to know is a couple of things...

Why the lines keep catching on that Drivers corner only first time for a brake line snap but its snapped the abs and breather before.

what is this weird noise i keep hearing?

Description of noise - as i accelerate it makes a sound similar to two pieces of pine blocks clapping together, it happens on acceleration and when i brake BUT not when i freewheel in gear nor when i rev the engine in neutral...ive checked the fluid in the rear dif and it DIDNT spit out bits of metal ive checked all the wheel bearings (by shaking them) and they are all ok...ive looked underneath nothing is rubbing and nothing is leaking. im outta ideas..OH and the noise gets faster as i speed up. One more thing it sounds like it could be coming from either the back or the middle but not the front but then again the sound could be traveling.

PLEASE HELP! its really frustrating...:mad:

Mike

[81stubee]

as i accelerate it makes a sound similar to two pieces of pine blocks clapping together, it happens on acceleration and when i brake BUT not when i freewheel in gear nor when i rev the engine in neutral

Could it be a CV joint?? I believe that will sometimes show up as a clunk. It has to be something in the driveline. Does anyone know how to check a CV joint?

Stu

[M.Allison]

na i checked the cv joint its not that...unless sumhow ive managed to shear the bearings and not tear the outside but at the same time i did check for that and they only got replaced about two months ago sorry.


ive narrowed it down to a couple of things, torque converter. propshaft. drive plate and transfer case.

that is my thoughts :D

on the other hand i replaced my brake line with a braided one only cost me $90 ADR APPROVED! with an extra 2"s to compensate for my lift. i also rewired the abs line and i re plumbed the breather line...still its a small win compared to what ever the F*%@ this is.

mike

[Hoges]

??? over-stretched morse chain in transfer case...chain jumps on drive sprockets due to slackness... loud knocking noise results... just a long shot
it's worthwhile doing an extended search on this in www.rangerovers.net/forum in the P38 section

[lewy]

with a bit of luck you may have something jammed in a tyre

[M.Allison]

sooo ive decided to name it steam engine ahah cause thats what it sounds like! still no idea what it is. im thinking its the drive/flex plate has anyone changed one before? is there alot of work involved...

mike

[bee utey]

sooo ive decided to name it steam engine ahah cause thats what it sounds like! still no idea what it is. im thinking its the drive/flex plate has anyone changed one before? is there alot of work involved...

mike
So, can you hear the noise when in gear, press accel pedal, brakes on hard?
Gives you a chance to walk around the car while someone else is in the drivers seat. Look for broken engine mounts, engine fan hitting shroud.
Take the flywheel cover plate off, look for signs of cracking or fore-aft movement in the drive plate. You need 3-4 inches between the engine and gearbox to get out a drive plate.

[M.Allison]

ok so i took it down to AMV today and they put it up on a hoist...well turns out that its the rear dif?

that completely threw me off because i drained the oil and no pieces of metal came out..

turns out that ive bruised a tooth on the dif so it starts slipping at a faster speed.

now question i have is this.

Is there a dif that is stronger then my current one?

i do alot of hard off roading...and i dont wanna spend 1k to get a new one and then break it a year down the track

thanks guys,

Mike

[Blknight.aus]

dana 60 or the 8ha sals.... bit of conversion work and then if you want to up it again you can add a locker and stronger axles.

want the final word on the 8HA.

the only bit of the perentie the adgies havent been able to break yet (yes not even the suzi 3.9 is safe from them)

[Scouse]

dana 60 or the 8ha sals.... bit of conversion work and then if you want to up it again you can add a locker and stronger axles.

It's a P38.
That'd be some conversion :).

[81stubee]

Are you sure something else isn't broken that has caused the diff to break?

A seized viscous puts lots of strain on the diffs.

Stu

BTW I would imagine a different diff would be challenging, remember the P38's have composite trailing arms.

[M.Allison]

well because my car is already a Frankenstein what would be required for this conversion? and how much would i be spending on parts?

also if i have some sort of idea what is involved ill be able to get a picture in my head as to how im gonna go about it.

Thanks Mike


p.s Making the impossible possible is my forte

[M.Allison]

Are you sure something else isn't broken that has caused the diff to break?

A seized viscous puts lots of strain on the diffs.

Stu

BTW I would imagine a different diff would be challenging, remember the P38's have composite trailing arms.


yeah i dont think its seized mind you i can have a look at it when i change the rear dif...cause the rear dif is still rooted.

thanks

mike