d2 td5 lacking power

[richarde]

Well, Ive fixed the fuel leak. The engine was playing up and I thought this might have something to do with not supplying enough fuel pressure to the regulator.

The car goes fine so long as you don't go over 3ooo rpm. The problem is most noticable when you are cruising at, say, 100km/h and you put the boot in to overtake. The transmission kicks back a gear, the engine revs to 3500+ rpm............ but no power. After fixing the fuel leak the other day I took the car for a drive and tried this a few times. On one occassion it pulled like a tractor but then started to "break down - like faulty spark plugs do". After doing this a couple of times I think the car went into some kind of limp home mode.

The next day the car started fine and drove fine until pushed as explained above. Same symptoms.

Any ideas??

[Psimpson7]

What have you checked?

have you looked at the simple stuff?

Oil in the Harness would be first port of call, especially with the misfire effect.

Remove the red plug from the ECU. Is it full of oil?

If so theres the issue.

There are other things it could be but I would start there.

Throttle pedal, faulty Maf sensor, crank position, etc can also cause issues

[Gold_TD5]

Well, Ive fixed the fuel leak. The engine was playing up and I thought this might have something to do with not supplying enough fuel pressure to the regulator.

The car goes fine so long as you don't go over 3ooo rpm. The problem is most noticable when you are cruising at, say, 100km/h and you put the boot in to overtake. The transmission kicks back a gear, the engine revs to 3500+ rpm............ but no power. After fixing the fuel leak the other day I took the car for a drive and tried this a few times. On one occassion it pulled like a tractor but then started to "break down - like faulty spark plugs do". After doing this a couple of times I think the car went into some kind of limp home mode.

The next day the car started fine and drove fine until pushed as explained above. Same symptoms.

Any ideas??
Sounds like an overboost, if you stop, turn the car off then start again, does it go fine till you floor it again?
Also when my AAP sensor **** it self, it ran like that, disconect the sensor on the the top of the air box and go for a run, like wise with the MAF.
Cheers Lionel

[Jason789]

I had the hose fall off where the end of the EGR used to be leading in to the inlet manifold, on the replacement bit( I put it on right the second time). It sounds like similar symptoms. Is it possible there is an air leak somewhere on the pressure side of the turbo ?

[richarde]

Didn't have much time yesterday afternoon. Disconnected both sensor4s from the airbox - ( I assume MAF and AAP)?? The car definitely went harder but still broke down after 3000 rpm in 3rd and 4th.

I'll check the ecu connector this afternoon.

[bruiser69]

Well, Ive fixed the fuel leak. The engine was playing up and I thought this might have something to do with not supplying enough fuel pressure to the regulator.

The car goes fine so long as you don't go over 3ooo rpm. The problem is most noticable when you are cruising at, say, 100km/h and you put the boot in to overtake. The transmission kicks back a gear, the engine revs to 3500+ rpm............ but no power. After fixing the fuel leak the other day I took the car for a drive and tried this a few times. On one occassion it pulled like a tractor but then started to "break down - like faulty spark plugs do". After doing this a couple of times I think the car went into some kind of limp home mode.

The next day the car started fine and drove fine until pushed as explained above. Same symptoms.

Any ideas??

Sounds like turbo wastegate modulator . Check out these links http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/98129-td5-overboost-problem.html & www.discovery2.co.uk/Faults and Fixes - articles (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/faultsandfixes.html) Bypass & see how it goes.
Cheers..B

[bullets]

Agree - sounds like wastegate. Replaced mine the other day - big difference

[richarde]

Today I by-passed the turbo modulator and then checked the red connector going to the ECU. The connector was full of oil so I sprayed WD40 and contact cleaner onto the loom and ecu and blew out as much gunk as possible.

I then took the car for a test drive. Fixed. I then kicked myself because I didn't know which change had worked. I re-installed the turbo modulator and went for a drive. Problems back. I've since bypassed it again and symptoms gone.

I'll start by ordering a new modulator but the wiring harness is clearly faulty and I'll have to look at that soon. Genuine land rover parts seem to be a bit expensive. Are there any suppliers of non genuine parts who are worth contacting?

I don't understand why oil in the loom causes faults. Does the oil break down the insulation on the wires in the loom? Does it coat the connectors with a film of oil?

Thanks to everyone for your help. Hopefully this problem is dealt with.

[bruiser69]

I don't think you will obtain non genuine LR parts for these items. Buy one of the UK LR mags & you will find the parts much cheaper, but need to buy a few items to make shipping costs worthwhile.
The oil doesn't appear to degrade the loom insulation from what I saw, and some have successfully cleaned injector looms (do a search). Several owners have only replaced loom under tappet cover & cleaned the external loom.The oil must be slightly conductive, probably from the carbon.
Cheers..B

[Tombie]

Rovacraft has a Britpart version of the Injector loom..

[bruiser69]

Rovacraft has a Britpart version of the Injector loom..

Hi Tombie,
Is this the loom that is under tappet cover & if so does it have better sealing against oil ingress?

[Tombie]

Hi Tombie,
Is this the loom that is under tappet cover & if so does it have better sealing against oil ingress?

It is... And doesnt look any different to the one removed (I did it as a preventative measure during the recent work on the engine)