PDA

View Full Version : Wheel bearings from dealer



fraser130
20th February 2010, 10:37 AM
Well I'm flabbergasted (I really shouldn't be - I should know better)
I priced wheel bearings for the 'Fender today $139 +GST each!!!
Then rang a bearing suppliers (Cairns unfortunately) $25.50 Incl GST, these are a Japanese bearing too.
so we have
$1223
Vs
$204

To do the whole car!
Twin lip hub seals are $8 each too (from the bearing supplier)
Just need to wait until Monday to find a local supplier (Melbourne) as they all seem to be closed on Saturday.

Hmmmmm

Just had to tell someone!

p38arover
20th February 2010, 10:51 AM
I notice the bearing part nos. changed from 1999 onwards.

Up until 1999 VIN WA159306, the bearing was part number RTC 3429 at about $28 list. From 1999 VIN XA159807, the bearing is STC4382 and the list price was about $108.

Was that at the change to the Td5 models?

fraser130
20th February 2010, 11:07 AM
I notice the bearing part nos. changed from 1999 onwards.

Up until 1999 VIN WA159306, the bearing was part number RTC 3429 at about $28 list. From 1999 VIN XA159807, the bearing is STC4382 and the list price was about $10.

Was that at the change to the Td5 models?

Good question Ron,
All my information (which you have me questioning now) says Timken LM603011 / LM603040 set for tdi through to Td5....
Hmm....
Is that just the bearing part number, or a kit?
I believe the seals changed when they went to greased bearings.
I'm going to oil now, grease is a silly idea!

Can I ask how you can look up the parts and get the prices?

Fraser

p38arover
20th February 2010, 11:10 AM
That STC4382 price was missing the last digit. It used to be $108 some years ago. Pricing is from a program that used to be used by LRA - so they are out of date.
That price was for the bearing alone.

fraser130
20th February 2010, 11:17 AM
That STC4382 price was missing the last digit. It used to be $108 some years ago. Pricing is from a program that used to be used by LRA - so they are out of date.
That price was for the bearing alone.

Maybe that's what LRA do, source a part at a reasonable cost, add a digit, then sell it!!:D

I can see the board, having a pricing policy meeting and someone says "How about we mark parts up by 1000%?"
They all laugh evilly, rolling there hands together saying "MWAAAHHHHHHH"
and the meeting is adjourned!

One supplier I spoke to said "I've NEVER seen a wheel bearing over $25"
:D

Fraser

Edit: Is that program freely available?

dmdigital
20th February 2010, 11:30 AM
I notice the bearing part nos. changed from 1999 onwards.

Up until 1999 VIN WA159306, the bearing was part number RTC 3429 at about $28 list. From 1999 VIN XA159807, the bearing is STC4382 and the list price was about $108.

Was that at the change to the Td5 models?
Yes it was. I don't know if the Td5 has a stacked nut like the Puma but I suspect it does. Though I understand this can be replaced by the old tab washer and nuts as per Tdi.

fraser130
20th February 2010, 11:52 AM
Well, just ordered them from a well known LR parts place in Hobart, $216 plus $19.80 postage for all 4 wheels, including 4 double lipped seals and 4 lock tabs
Less than 10% of the LRA price, and includes the seals and washers.
Genuine Timken too.

:D

Blknight.aus
20th February 2010, 12:01 PM
Yes it was. I don't know if the Td5 has a stacked nut like the Puma but I suspect it does. Though I understand this can be replaced by the old tab washer and nuts as per Tdi.



the td5 is supposed to run the stakenut setup. both can be converted back to the locktab setup and I suggest that you do if you plan on taking the vehicle out of convenient range of the dealers, while you're at it ask them to convert it back to oil fed bearings.. If you're in range of a dealers, dont plan on converting but are planning on blowing out a bearing prewarn the dealer so they can stock themselves on all 40 of the different spacing shims that are available so they can correctly set the preload/endfloat.

p38arover
20th February 2010, 12:17 PM
The programme I am using is called Viking Express. It is not readily available.

Oddly enough, MicroCAT differs from Viking Express.

MicroCAT shows the same part numbers but from a different changeover point for the front axle - it shows p/n RTC3429 was used up to VIN KA930455. Then, from LA930456, it shows STC4382.

However, for the rear axle, both MicroCAT and Viking show RTC3429 used on all models.

In the UK, STC4382 is cheaper than the RTC3429.

dmdigital
20th February 2010, 12:40 PM
the td5 is supposed to run the stakenut setup. both can be converted back to the locktab setup and I suggest that you do if you plan on taking the vehicle out of convenient range of the dealers, while you're at it ask them to convert it back to oil fed bearings.. If you're in range of a dealers, dont plan on converting but are planning on blowing out a bearing prewarn the dealer so they can stock themselves on all 40 of the different spacing shims that are available so they can correctly set the preload/endfloat.
:Rolling: Dave, it is more sensible in my case if that reads:
I suggest that you do if you plan on taking the vehicle within convenient range of the dealers
I can't even drive to a dealer for a few months time, when the track is passable again.

fraser130
20th February 2010, 12:43 PM
the td5 is supposed to run the stakenut setup. both can be converted back to the locktab setup and I suggest that you do if you plan on taking the vehicle out of convenient range of the dealers, while you're at it ask them to convert it back to oil fed bearings.. If you're in range of a dealers, dont plan on converting but are planning on blowing out a bearing prewarn the dealer so they can stock themselves on all 40 of the different spacing shims that are available so they can correctly set the preload/endfloat.

Blknight, am I correct to assume to go to adjustable bearings it's just a matter of removing the spacer tube between the bearings, and fitting a locking tab washer and tightening as per normal wheel bearings?

Ta,
Fraser

p38arover
20th February 2010, 12:45 PM
If you go back to the old way, it's easier to set the bearing preload with a torque wrench than setting end float with a dial gauge.

Hoges
20th February 2010, 12:55 PM
x2:BigThumb:

Blknight.aus
20th February 2010, 04:53 PM
Blknight, am I correct to assume to go to adjustable bearings it's just a matter of removing the spacer tube between the bearings, and fitting a locking tab washer and tightening as per normal wheel bearings?

Ta,
Fraser

more or less

yes.

when you want to do it just ring MR Auto and ask them for the gear to do the conversion. Trust me on that or read This thread on stake nuts (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/43580-no-reusing-stakenuts-hmmkay.html) then This thread on the hilarity of ordering parts (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/619617-post32.html).